Where do I find an explanation for Fault codes? Got code P0524

[Dwight]

I have a fault code. Where do I find the explanation for them? I have an EDB fault, code P0524. Anybody have any ideas? I do have the CD shop manual.

Thanks
Dwight

[Lamonster]

Low Engine Oil Pressure- most likely a bad switch

[Dwight]

Thanks Lamont,
I actually found the low oil pressure fault (PO524) but on the screen it also showed an EDB fault. I can't find what EDB is, but on page 151 of the owners manual under EDB fault is says it's a VSS malfunction and tells you to take it to the nearest dealer. Do I have two problems? What do you think?

Dwight

[Lamonster]

Ether way I would take it to your dealer (again). :sour:

[SC_DOC]

Short of purchasing a shop manual, is there any place a list of fault codes can be found?

:D

[mdminc]

You can't go wrong with a manual from Midwest-Manuals (http://stores.ebay.com/Midwest-Manuals). It is only $25 on eBay.

[Dwight]

Yep, back to the shop it goes! I called the dealer service desk and told him what was happening. First words out of his mouth "that sucks". I just picked it up Saturday after being in the shop for 17 days. In all fairness they did a good job, riding it home Saturday I finally got the same experience most of you did when you rode yours home, it worked like it should have. Took the wife for a nice long supper ride so she could see what it was like when it worked like it was supposed to. We were happy! Now I have to decide if I should put the Klicktronic shifter back on the Harley/CSC. We are supposed to leave May 29 for our big summer trip and I'm not sure the RT-S will be available and I do have some "trust" issue's with it now. I'll have to load the RT-S up on a trailer, the service guy said if the check engine light is flashing you shouldn't ride it. Hoping to get it there Wed afternoon. If it needs parts that means at least another 7 to 10 days down. What's a guy to do?

Dwight

[widowmaker2011]

Yep, back to the shop it goes! I called the dealer service desk and told him what was happening. First words out of his mouth "that sucks". I just picked it up Saturday after being in the shop for 17 days. In all fairness they did a good job, riding it home Saturday I finally got the same experience most of you did when you rode yours home, it worked like it should have. Took the wife for a nice long supper ride so she could see what it was like when it worked like it was supposed to. We were happy! Now I have to decide if I should put the Klicktronic shifter back on the Harley/CSC. We are supposed to leave May 29 for our big summer trip and I'm not sure the RT-S will be available and I do have some "trust" issue's with it now. I'll have to load the RT-S up on a trailer, the service guy said if the check engine light is flashing you shouldn't ride it. Hoping to get it there Wed afternoon. If it needs parts that means at least another 7 to 10 days down. What's a guy to do?

Dwight

Dwight- Hopefully it won't take that long. Several RT's have experienced your symptoms and it was just a bad oil pressure switch. Its a quick quick fix. :pray:

[Dwight]

Hey Widowmaker,
I sure hope you're right!

Thanks
Dwight

[canam9]

Hey Widowmaker,
I sure hope you're right!

Thanks
Dwight
I feel your pain!
Please keep us posted.
Best wishes

[Dwight]

Got it back Saturday. Runs fine. Service rep couldn't give me a specific reason for the problem. He said they thought it was corrosion on some connection? I'm not happy about that but what can I do? I've ridden it in the rain and washed it a couple of times, should I not do that? I sure hope this doesn't turn out to be a fair weather ride! I don't think they were sure they had fixed it, they took it on a 40 mile test ride. We leave the 29th for our summer trip, guess we'll take out and see how far we make it!

Dwight

[docdoru]

Got it back Saturday. Runs fine. Service rep couldn't give me a specific reason for the problem. He said they thought it was corrosion on some connection? I'm not happy about that but what can I do? I've ridden it in the rain and washed it a couple of times, should I not do that? I sure hope this doesn't turn out to be a fair weather ride! I don't think they were sure they had fixed it, they took it on a 40 mile test ride. We leave the 29th for our summer trip, guess we'll take out and see how far we make it! Dwight
Possible causes: Damaged switch, damaged circuit wires, damaged connector, damaged ECM pins.
Service actions: A. Measure resistance between harness connector 6-EOP and ground when engine stopped. (expected value < 2 ohms)
B. Measure resistance between harness connector 6-EOP and ground when engine running. (expected value = open)
C. Measure resistance from harness connector: 6-EOP to 5-ECM-A10 (expected value: < 2 ohms) :doorag:

[Bootie]

I have a fault code. Where do I find the explanation for them? I have an EDB fault, code P0524. Anybody have any ideas? I do have the CD shop manual.

Thanks
Dwight
You should get a shop manuel if you are going to do your own work on the Spyder.
I just got a P0524 fault code on mine(2500 mi).:( I agree with Lamonster that it is probably a bad oil pressure switch.:( I am headed out to the garage with my Ohm meter to check it out.(I was already pulling the side panels to install my ISCI foot pegs.) The switch is supposed to measure <2 Ohms to ground with the engine off and Open Circuit with the engine running. I'll let you know what the diagnosis is.:chat:

[Bootie]

Dwight- Hopefully it won't take that long. Several RT's have experienced your symptoms and it was just a bad oil pressure switch. Its a quick quick fix. :pray:
Where did you get a new pressure switch. From the Dealer??:dontknow:Or can we pick one up somewhere else.

[widowmaker2011]

Where did you get a new pressure switch. From the Dealer??:dontknow:Or can we pick one up somewhere else.

I am sure it can be had elsewhere but why? We are all under warranty.

[Bootie]

I am sure it can be had elsewhere but why? We are all under warranty.
Since it is a round trip of 300mi for me to return to the Dealer I kind of figured on doing the repair myself. Hence the question about where to get the switch.:chat:
I have another question for y'uns. If the switch is supposed to be Open after the oil pressure comes up, I should be able just to pull the wire off of the switch and get the same result, NO?:dontknow: When I do that, I still get the P0524 indication. Do I need to clear the fault code first? If so, how do I do that?:dontknow:

[Bootie]

Since it is a round trip of 300mi for me to return to the Dealer I kind of figured on doing the repair myself. Hence the question about where to get the switch.:chat:
I have another question for y'uns. If the switch is supposed to be Open after the oil pressure comes up, I should be able just to pull the wire off of the switch and get the same result, NO?:dontknow: When I do that, I still get the P0524 indication. Do I need to clear the fault code first? If so, how do I do that?:dontknow:
I think I answered my own question. The EOP switch seems to be OK. There is a dynamic test described in the manual. I'll go try that but now, the problem seems to be with the wiring.:(

[Bootie]

I think I answered my own question. The EOP switch seems to be OK. There is a dynamic test described in the manual. I'll go try that but now, the problem seems to be with the wiring.:(
Well, the circuit wiring seems to be OK. So the manual says TRY a new EOP switch. I suppose I'll have to haul it into the dealer for that. I have all the tupperware off so I'll have to trailer it it:mad:It being Saturday at 4:00 I'll probably have to wait until Monday:cus:

[NancysToy]

Well, the circuit wiring seems to be OK. So the manual says TRY a new EOP switch. I suppose I'll have to haul it into the dealer for that. I have all the tupperware off so I'll have to trailer it it:mad:It being Saturday at 4:00 I'll probably have to wait until Monday:cus:
Same situation myself. Light clears when switch is disconnected, but code and limp mode do not. Disconnecting the battery will not reset it. If it is a reset issue, it must be done via BUDS, but I suspect new switches will be needed too, despite testing good with the ohmmeter. Call your dealer first, they are not likely to have one in stock.

My trailer is full of 18 replacement windows I puicked up last week. Now I have to figure where to put those so I can load the RTS. How do I get myself into these fixes? :roflblack:

[Bootie]

Same situation myself. Light clears when switch is disconnected, but code and limp mode do not. Disconnecting the battery will not reset it. If it is a reset issue, it must be done via BUDS, but I suspect new switches will be needed too, despite testing good with the ohmmeter. Call your dealer first, they are not likely to have one in stock.:hun:

My trailer is full of 18 replacement windows I puicked up last week. Now I have to figure where to put those so I can load the RTS. How do I get myself into these fixes? :roflblack:

Scotty, thanks for your input. I was just about to unhook the battery and see if that would reset the codes. I guess I won't waste my time now.
There is an Aprilla dealer about 15min from my house. The Aprilla uses the same Rotax 990 engine. Maybe they will have the EOP switch. If they do, I'll just buy it and go ahead and replace mine. I still won't know what to do about the reset, though.:gaah:

Do you know anything about this BUDS thingy. Can we purchase the computer and software. It seems like alot of waste to drive 300 miles just to have them reset the freekin' codes.:(

[dave711]

every once in a while I get the p0524 error and limp mode when starting cold. Take off and get to 3rd gear and it goes away. Never does it when warm. The oil light never stays on after starting though. The oil level is full. Dealer unsure of what to do as they see no error codes.:chat:

[ataDude]

... Can we purchase the computer and software...

No.

.

[Bootie]

every once in a while I get the p0524 error and limp mode when starting cold. Take off and get to 3rd gear and it goes away. Never does it when warm. The oil light never stays on after starting though. The oil level is full. Dealer unsure of what to do as they see no error codes.:chat:
:yes:Well, I checked the EOP switch and the wiring, using a good Ohmmeter" and all seems well. I added enough oil to bring it to the "Full" mark (it was down a bit, I added 16oz). The fault codes were still in vogue so I did what Dave did and took it out on the road, got it up to 40 mph in 3rd gear and in about 1 minute the "limp" mode disappeared. I checked the fault codes when I got back to my house and it still said P0524. I took the ignition key out and put it back in and the fault code went away.:dontknow: It seems to be running fine now.:D I am going to take it out for a test ride this evening.:bowdown:

[Dwight]

Bootie,
Glad to hear that! I took mine to the shop for the P0524 and they couldn't find anything, said they thought it had a corroded connector! Doublespeak for " we don't know what is wrong". If it happens again I'll try your way.

Thanks
Dwight

[NancysToy]

Bootie,
Glad to hear that! I took mine to the shop for the P0524 and they couldn't find anything, said they thought it had a corroded connector! Doublespeak for " we don't know what is wrong". If it happens again I'll try your way.

Thanks
Dwight
I would worry a bit about your shop. The P0524 code is explained in the shop manual. The procedures to follow to troubleshoot it are in the manual, too. You check the sensor with an ohmmeter, then chech the wiring. If, at that point the oil light continues to be on (and the P0524 code remains) you are supposed to "try replacing the sensor".

Not sure that I am comfortable trying the 40 mph/3rd gear fix with the oil light on and having not taken a wet oil pressure test, even though the switch changes contact when the engine starts. I also have an oil leak somewhere, so mine will probably go into the shop.

[Bootie]

Not sure that I am comfortable trying the 40 mph/3rd gear fix with the oil light on and having not taken a wet oil pressure test, even though the switch changes contact when the engine starts. I also have an oil leak somewhere, so mine will probably go into the shop.
Scotty, the oil light never came on when it was not supposed to:dontknow: except when I was checking the wiring and then it came on and went off like it was supposed to. That process may have reset something in the computer. Because after that, Dave's solution worked. I put some more miles on this evening about 10 of them at 65+ mph. Everything seems to work now.:D

The fact that the switch resistance goes to inf. when the engine starts means that there is, at least, some measure of oil pressure. :lecturef_smilie: I figured that the oil pressure was sufficient without actually measuring it.

I don't exactly see how the oil light stays off and the P0524 code comes on. Unless there is some sort of timer and if the oil pressure doesn't come up to snuff within a particular time period, the P0524 code is generated. Then the oil light goes out but the code stays. This might be why Dave only saw this problem when the engine (and oil)were cold. :dontknow: Maybe a lower viscosity oil might solve the problem:lecturef_smilie: or maybe BRP has to reprogram the timer (if there is such a thing).:dontknow:
Anyway, I am happy now.:yes: I hope things don't go south when I am in the Desert on my way to CA next month:bowdown: NV Rt.#50, the "Loneliest Road in America" would be a bad place to have a breakdown.:yikes:

[NancysToy]

You are doing better than I am. My oil light stays on whenever the switch is connected. The switch goes to infinity and the wiring checks out, so that puzzles me. The engine seems to have good oil pressure (no knocks or strange noises), but I am leery of running it. I do not have the right connectors to do a wet oil pressure test. Odd that the code does not clear, even with the switch disconnected and the oil light out. I also had a code P0000 for a while, but that cleared when I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes. It is a phantom code that has no meaning in the book.

[Bootie]

You are doing better than I am. My oil light stays on whenever the switch is connected. The switch goes to infinity and the wiring checks out, so that puzzles me. The engine seems to have good oil pressure (no knocks or strange noises), but I am leery of running it. I do not have the right connectors to do a wet oil pressure test. Odd that the code does not clear, even with the switch disconnected and the oil light out. I also had a code P0000 for a while, but that cleared when I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes. It is a phantom code that has no meaning in the book.
Hmmm. I don't know what to say.:dontknow: I I'd say you are doing the right thing by not pushing your engine to the limit. Looks like an oil gauge is required. I guess I'd take it to the Dealer.

[Tucsonspyder]

I have a fault code. Where do I find the explanation for them? I have an EDB fault, code P0524. Anybody have any ideas? I do have the CD shop manual.

Thanks
Dwighthttps://powersportsguide.com/can-am-fault-code-list/

[ARtraveler]

This particular thread dates back to May 2010. :bowdown:

:oldpost:

[SkipH]

Well, he maybe late to the table, But I thank him for this info as I've never seen it before.
Thank you.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

https://powersportsguide.com/can-am-fault-code-list/

Anyone know offhand how current and complete this list is for Spyders? It looks like it probably has the codes for all Can-Am vehicles, which I suspect include many not applicable to the Spyder. I'm thinking of copying the list and put it into a PDF and put it in the stickies section. The procedure for checking codes in the link does not apply to Spyders. It shows the procedure for a Maverick.