Help - Oil Pressure Gauge Installation

[NorthStar]

Want to mount an electronic oil pressure gauge in place of the analog temperature gauge that I have removed. I have already mounted the Voltage Gauge in place of the analog fuel gauge and the other space is just begging for another functional gauge.

Has anyone done this yet or know how to do this on the RT? If so, can you share your expertise?

Any assistance you can pass my way would be greatly appreciated.

[InspectorGadget]

Want to mount an electronic oil pressure gauge in place of the analog temperature gauge that I have removed. I have already mounted the Voltage Gauge in place of the analog fuel gauge and the other space is just begging for another functional gauge.

Has anyone done this yet or know how to do this on the RT? If so, can you share your expertise?

Any assistance you can pass my way would be greatly appreciated.
I received the oil pressure sending unit today from www.marinepowerservice.com (http://www.marinepowerservice.com) Sierra part# 01858990 cross referenced from Teleflex # IA15001.
I thought I could just remove the right hand lower belly pan, but it is more involved than that.
After removing the side panel, some gromits, the splash shield, and a lower bolt the belly pan finally came off.
The service manual advises to run the motor for a few minutes to get most of the oil into the oil tank. Also place a pan under the oil switch to catch the 2oz that will be lost.
A 21mm socket was used to remove the oil pressure switch.
I took both the sending unit and the switch to the local Discount Auto Parts and the clerk had to go in the back to find the parts I needed. The sale ticket says "brass 1/8f pipe tee" & "brass 1/8m long nipple". I thought the switch was a metric size, but it did thread into the T. I applied blue thread locker to all of the threads and installed the parts as pictured.
I re-attached the switch wire and started the motor, letting it run for a few minutes to make sure that there were no leaks.
I attached a 16ga wire to the end of the oil pressure sending unit and ran it up into the area of the coolant tank for later hookup.
I re-installed all of the body panels and called it a night.
C-YA RL

[SC92]

It is raining to-day so I decided to fit up my new Volt meter and Oil Pressure gauges.
They look so good I decided to share.

Volts on the left and oil pressure on the right

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtFmkgUnajk

[fastfraser]

:thumbup: Great job. Thanks for the pics.

[IWN2RYD]

Beautiful :2thumbs:. Would you be kind enough to link us where you got them, or at least the model numbers and name? A parts list would be wonderful as well! :ohyea:

Those look to be perfect!! I would love to do the same. Origianlly I was thinking of putting tweeters in there, and changing the front speakers to high-end mids... But your youtube changed my mind... nojoke

[InspectorGadget]

Nice job. They look GREAT.
C-YA RL :2thumbs:

[Sopher]

This is fantastic!

But will taping into the Oil line be an issue with Warranty? How idiot proof is the install ?

(Just askin')

[SC92]

This is fantastic!

But will taping into the Oil line be an issue with Warranty? How idiot proof is the install ?

(Just askin')

Thanks all,
The Gauge sender unit is fitted by screwing an adaptor into the engine that takes the place of the original Oil Pressure Switch, it then screws into the adaptor along with the new sender unit for the Gauge. Very easy to do, also not a huge job if you have to pay for it.

The biggest part of the Job is running the wires etc.

Gauges are available on Ebay (see Link)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-52mm-Stepper-Motor-Gauge-LED-Oil-Pressure-/120565512517?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1243b945

[NorthStar]

This is fantastic!

But will taping into the Oil line be an issue with Warranty? How idiot proof is the install ?

(Just askin')

Every modification to a stock machine under warranty has the potential of voiding the warranty work if it can be proved by the manufacturer that the modification caused a specific problem. This mod is very straight forward. I would be hard pressed to think of how unscrewing the OPS and adding a T fitting for the OPG sending unit would cause any problems. It is possible that you could damage the OPS during modification and this would require you to purchase a new switch on your own dime. The same risk is there if you damaged a bolt unscrewing a panel, or changing the oil.
Is this an idiot proof install? I can't honestly give you a definitive answer since the only reference point I have is my personal idiocy level.:opps:
However, that being said, I would rate this install as pretty basic, based on my bike modification experience.

[Bootie]

In looking at your excellent pics, I see only 1 wire from the Oil Sending Unit. I am not sure how the thing works but I would think you need at least 2-wires plus ground. One wire would carry the voltage that is proportional to Oil Pressure and the other wire would carry the 12V Supply from the battery. Could you enlighten us on this? Thanks.

[upsdoctor]

SC92,

I would like to order the same volt / oil pressure gauges that you have, but the eBay link in your post has expired.

Did you order the white LED, 0-150 PSI? When the engine is running, what PSI does the gauge normally indicate?

The Racetech gauges seem to match the tach and speedo pretty well.

[NorthStar]

SC92,

I would like to order the same volt / oil pressure gauges that you have, but the eBay link in your post has expired.

Did you order the white LED, 0-150 PSI? When the engine is running, what PSI does the gauge normally indicate?

The Racetech gauges seem to match the tach and speedo pretty well.

www.marinepowerservice.com part# Sierra part# 01858990 cross referenced from Teleflex # IA15001.

The Oil Pressure is in the 0-80 PSI range.

Ironically, I have just pulled these gauges out of my dash and replaced them with Digital Voltmeter and Ambient Air Temperature gauges from Cyberdyne. I prefer the digital gauges to the analog type that I removed, and I think that seeing an "accurate" air temperature reading will be of more interest to me than the oil pressure. Only time will tell.

Just a heads up on mounting the OP Sender.... Buy a 10 mm to 1/8 NPT adapter to mount the Sender into your block and a 1/8 NPT to 10mm adapter to mount the BRP OP sensor, that you removed from the block, into your T. This second adapter is not necessary, but IMO the one to the block is.

Good luck with your install.

M

[Marker]

It is raining to-day so I decided to fit up my new Volt meter and Oil Pressure gauges.
They look so good I decided to share.

Volts on the left and oil pressure on the right

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtFmkgUnajk

The gauges look awesome nice job and thanks for sharing:thumbup::2thumbs::clap:

[PeacefulBen]

:clap: Just changed out the stock fuel/temp gauges and installed the digital readout, voltmeter and oil pressure gauges. Since I already had blue neons under the bike, I chose the blue readout for these. (They also come in other colors.) When off, they simply show up black face. These are Cyberdine units that I found online at www.Tradervar.com (http://www.Tradervar.com)

The install was fairly easy, once I got all the panels out of the way. Using posi-locks and posi-taps, I tapped into the red/hot and black/ground wires that were originally used for the stock gauges on both of the new gauges. The voltmeter was the easiest of course, with no new wires needed.

For the Oil Pressure gauge: I had to replace the original sending unit with the one supplied with the new oil pressure gauge. Had to route a "sending wire" from gauge location down to the new sending unit. It came with the same 1/4" threads as the original, making it easy to unscrew the stock sender and screw in the new sender.

Once all the wires were intact, the instructions call for setting (by way of a small screw in the back of each gauge) the "flashing warning setting" you prefer. I set my voltmeter at 11.5 and the oil pressure at 20lbs. When a gauge reaches those "low" settings, it starts to "flash" with the actual reading.

One thing I learned on this mod: :lecturef_smilie: Make sure you read ALL the instructions thoroughly before beginning. I thought I knew how to install gauges, but these digital readouts were a little different. AND I love the cool :2thumbs: look!! A larger picture here: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/album.php?albumid=1248&pictureid=15967

[NancysToy]

.....For the Oil Pressure gauge: I had to replace the original sending unit with the one supplied with the new oil pressure gauge. Had to route a "sending wire" from gauge location down to the new sending unit. It came with the same 1/4" threads as the original, making it easy to unscrew the stock sender and screw in the new sender.

Once all the wires were intact, the instructions call for setting (by way of a small screw in the back of each gauge) the "flashing warning setting" you prefer. I set my voltmeter at 11.5 and the oil pressure at 20lbs. When a gauge reaches those "low" settings, it starts to "flash" with the actual reading......
Just in case anyone else is interested in following your lead, I would like to point out a couple of things that owners should be aware of if contemplating this arrangement.

First, the original pressure sensor does not have 1/4" threads, nor would the replacement. The original threads are 6 mm metric. Almost every aftermarket unit is 1/8" NPT (tapered pipe thread). The two are not strictly compatible. While you can get the tapered NPT fitting to seal in the metric crankcase thread, if you elect to use a tee, and retain the original sensor too, the metric threads wll not seal in an NPT tee.

Second, everyone should be aware that replacing the original sensor in this way disables the low oil pressure warning on the Spyder, and also the diagnostic code function (read by BUDS). If you have an oil pressure problem, the Spyder won't tell you...you'll have to pay attention to the gauge warning alone. Also, most gauges have no such warning function...be sure to use a gauge with a warning if you get rid of the original sensor.

[PeacefulBen]

Just in case anyone else is interested in following your lead, I would like to point out a couple of things that owners should be aware of if contemplating this arrangement.

First, the original pressure sensor does not have 1/4" threads, nor would the replacement. The original threads are 6 mm metric. Almost every aftermarket unit is 1/8" NPT (tapered pipe thread). The two are not strictly compatible. While you can get the tapered NPT fitting to seal in the metric crankcase thread, if you elect to use a tee, and retain the original sensor too, the metric threads wll not seal in an NPT tee.

Second, everyone should be aware that replacing the original sensor in this way disables the low oil pressure warning on the Spyder, and also the diagnostic code function (read by BUDS). If you have an oil pressure problem, the Spyder won't tell you...you'll have to pay attention to the gauge warning alone. Also, most gauges have no such warning function...be sure to use a gauge with a warning if you get rid of the original sensor.

:agree:Thanks Scotty, for making sure we get the information correct. My typo...It is a 1/8" NPT on the new gauge. Before I even tried it it the crankcase, I compared the two closely. Both were tapered, threads matched, and length of shaft was the same. Even had a younger set of experienced mechanic eyes compare the two. (I may have gotten lucky here that they matched so close.) :clap:

:agree:Also, you are correct in that this type install will disable the low pressure warning on the Spyder. That was my concern when shopping for an oil pressure gauge. This new gauge has a set screw in the rear that allows you to set a "low-point" flasher. After checking the RT manual, I started by setting my "low-point" warning at 20lbs. (The manual calls for a nominal pressure of 22lbs, at 1400 rpm) When the pressure drops below the selected "low-point", the LED readout flashes continously, until it climbs back above the set point. These things are bright and when it flashes, you definitely see it! :doorag:

Other than losing a dash screw to the "Black Hole" (been replaced), everything has been working great and we're getting some nice compliments on them.

Got a question you might be able to answer for me: For servicing, if I disconnect the new sending wire, and reconnect the original sending wire to the new gauge, will this enable the diagnostic code function on BUDS?:dontknow:

[NancysToy]

Got a question you might be able to answer for me: For servicing, if I disconnect the new sending wire, and reconnect the original sending wire to the new gauge, will this enable the diagnostic code function on BUDS?:dontknow:
I doubt it. The Spyder sensor is merely a pressure switch, as far as I can tell. It sounds like your new sender is just that, usually a variable resistance sending unit. If so, the units are not compatible. Your gauge/sender combo will give the same function, it will merely never show in BUDS, but unless you have serious engine problems or a very low oil level, it will probably never show up in BUDS anyway. Save your old sensor, and reinstall it if you find the need for the dealer to check for the code.

[RetiredCGRider]

So these are 2 1/6" gauges, I think I'll do mine with both sending units.

[GaryTheBadger]

A customer wants me to install blue digital oil pressure and ammeter (not voltmeter) gauges on his RT.
I understand the oil pressure piping issues and can handle that, but I have a couple of questions:
1) Confirm I need 2 1/16 dia gauges?
2) How are modern digital ammeters connected these days? Decades ago, you had to connect in-line
and alot of amps ran through thick wires. Has that changed to low-current sensing of some kind?
Is the Spyder charging system going to make this extra challanging? Anyone installed an Ammeter yet?

Thanks!

Gary

[NancysToy]

A customer wants me to install blue digital oil pressure and ammeter (not voltmeter) gauges on his RT.
I understand the oil pressure piping issues and can handle that, but I have a couple of questions:
1) Confirm I need 2 1/16 dia gauges?
2) How are modern digital ammeters connected these days? Decades ago, you had to connect in-line
and alot of amps ran through thick wires. Has that changed to low-current sensing of some kind?
Is the Spyder charging system going to make this extra challanging? Anyone installed an Ammeter yet?

Thanks!

Gary
An ammeter must be installed in line after the main fuse and before any load, or it needs a meter with a current sensing coil. The first option requires heavy wiring, and creates a possible point for future electrical failure, to boot. The second option may not be available for automotive use anymore, and requires the loop and wiring size to match, or multiple passes of the wire through the loop. You would have to do some research. These weaknesses, are why voltmeters have displaced ammeters in automotive use. Voltmeters are simple and quick, and they match the diagnostic methods in the service manual. They are sufficient for casual use like this. I wouldn't recommend separating the main electrical feed and wiring heavy wire all the way to the dash from the rear. If you can't find a current sensing loop version of a gauge, I would go with the voltmeter.

[GaryTheBadger]

Thanks, Scotty. I figured that's how it would play out. I'll recommend a voltmeter.

Still looking for confimation on the hole diameter.

-Gary

[NancysToy]

Thanks, Scotty. I figured that's how it would play out. I'll recommend a voltmeter.

Still looking for confimation on the hole diameter.

-Gary
I measured once, but I don't remember. I do know I tried a standard 2 1/16" gauge and it fit OK. I don't remember what brand it was.

[BlueKnight]

How about a confirmation on the OEM sender thread size......is it 6mm or 10mm ?

[NancysToy]

How about a confirmation on the OEM sender thread size......is it 6mm or 10mm ?
6 mm, as I recall.

Edit: Make that 10 mm. The memory is the second thing to go!

My 1/8" NPT tap passes cleanly through a 10 mm tap, but will not come close to fitting in a tiny 6 mm hole. 10 MM is evidently the unthreaded pipe OD. The metric sensors are 10 mm x 1 and larger.

[sinkhole]

About a year ago someone went through this conversion and I believe used this fitting.32543

[sinkhole]

As a follow-up to my previous post...
I'm not sure what the threads are in the Rotax engine, but I'd want to know before I started trying to insert a fitting that didn't match. There are slight differences in the three major tapered pipe fittings that could damage the case if used where they shouldn't be.
1/8" NPT has 27, 60º threads per inch.
1/8" British Standard Pipe has 28, 55º threads per inch.
10 mm Metric Tapered Pipe has a thread pitch of 1 mm, or 25.4, 60º threads per inch.
They may all look very similar, but needless to say, they aren't made to be interchangable.

From the posting last year, I was under the impression that the 10 mm pipe thread was the one used on the Rotax engine.
Carlos or Lamont, please confirm.

[NancysToy]

As a follow-up to my previous post...
I'm not sure what the treads are in the Rotax engine, but I'd want to know before I started trying to insert a fitting that didn't match. There are slight differences in the three major tapered pipe fittings that could damage the case if used where they shouldn't be.
1/8" NPT has 27, 60º threads per inch.
1/8" British Standard Pipe has 28, 55º threads per inch.
10 mm Metric Tapered Pipe has a thread pitch of 1 mm, or 25.4, 60º threads per inch.
They may all look very similar, but needless to say, they aren't made to be interchangable.

From the posting last year, I was under the impression that the 10 mm pipe thread was the one used on the Rotax engine.
Carlos or Lamont, please confirm.
It appears you are right. That's what I get for going from memory. Dang, I hate getting old and forgetful! :D

[Lamonster]

As a follow-up to my previous post...
I'm not sure what the treads are in the Rotax engine, but I'd want to know before I started trying to insert a fitting that didn't match. There are slight differences in the three major tapered pipe fittings that could damage the case if used where they shouldn't be.
1/8" NPT has 27, 60º threads per inch.
1/8" British Standard Pipe has 28, 55º threads per inch.
10 mm Metric Tapered Pipe has a thread pitch of 1 mm, or 25.4, 60º threads per inch.
They may all look very similar, but needless to say, they aren't made to be interchangable.

From the posting last year, I was under the impression that the 10 mm pipe thread was the one used on the Rotax engine.
Carlos or Lamont, please confirm.http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?21280-correct-tee-for-oil-sending-unit

[murlaw703]

I have been wanting to install an oil pressure gauge on my Roadster but I cannot find a 10mm x 1.0 tee anywhere. The difference between the 1/8"NPT, as mentioned in other posts, is only 2 threads per inch. I see a lot of people using the 1/8"NPT and either not using the stock switch or using a tee. I spoke with the local Manager at my Spyder dealer and they have had many talks with BRP related to these add-ons. They had one bike catch on fire because of an led lighting system wiring problem.

In short, BRP looks at it this way: if the Spyder needed an oil pressure gauge, we would have put one on it. If someone uses a 1/8"NPT into a 10mm x 1.0 thread, any related problem with anything that can be remotely traced to an improper fitting or the lack of using the stock switch will void the warranty, period. You cannot necessarily, if having a problem and not using the stock switch, put the stock switch back on and get an accurate BUDs fault code. That sounds kind of hinky but I guess it is possible.

Also, any lighting that is added that is not a stock BRP product or approved product will invalidate the warranty on the electrical system. They said too many people are tapping into existing wiring, adding their own fuse panels and tapping into the fuse boxes resulting in fires and failures in the electrical systems. Therefore, any non BRP lighting deemed to have any possibility of causing the electrical failure will invalidate the warranty.

I can't believe an oil pressure sender using the proper fittings, if you can even find them, and the stock switch could possibly cause any fault. That is about the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard. I can understand the 1/8"NPT issue, I guess, since it is not the proper size, but that's about all. As far as the electrical system goes, I can kind of see their point. It is a complicated machine and we are making it more complicated by rewiring parts of the Spyder. Not true for all people, but not all of us are electrical engineers and some of you are more experienced than those who designed it.

I wanted to post this just to let you know what the factory Reps have been saying about all these add-ons and to be careful what you do !

Also, if I find a 10mm x 1.0 tee somewhere over the rainbow, I will let you know where I found it. Happy riding, but careful with add-ons and think first, not the "its better to ask forgiveness than permission" attitude !! I kinds fall into the latter :sour:

[SpyderRyder]

Here's where I ordered mine... $12.50 + shipping
Importer/Distributor- BAT Inc. 7630 Matoaka Road. Sarasota, FL 34243
phone (941) 355-0005 fax (941) 355-4683

[Pennyrick]

I am resurrecting this thread to add some more information.

This morning I decided to hook up the Auto Meter Oil Pressure unit I had installed in the dash of my RT.

To be on the safe side I took it to the tech at my dealer to have him handle the hook up. I purchased the Tee from BAT per this thread (10mm x 1.0 x 1/8" NPT) but when the tech began to thread it into the engine, the tee broke apart leaving the male thread inside the engine. He only applied a couple of pounds of pressure to the tee, so we were surprised that it twisted apart. He was able to get the piece removed but since we were unable to find another tee locally, we had to button the Spyder up and revert back to the factory sending unit only.

I called BAT and explained what happened and they are sending out replacement tees (I ordered two) right away. They requested I send back the one that twisted apart so they can examine it. They say they have never had this problem reported before. The guy I talked with did ask if a crush washer was used and I said no. He cautioned to use a crush washer and make sure the threads are well lubricated when installing this tee and is sending along a couple with my re-order.

I will update everyone when the new parts are installed.

My wife and I are heading out on our Spyders for ten days, so it may be a while before I get back to this project. We're heading up to the Washington DC area and then back down the Skyline Drive, Shenandoah Parkway, Blue Ridge Parkway on the home bound leg. This trip we're going to allow plenty of time to stop and see everything we can.

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: :yikes: Well, have a safe and fun trip and please let us know how this project concludes. Good Luck! :thumbup: