Front Sprocket BRP Bulletin

[docdoru]

Dec 7, 2009
Models: 2010 RS/RT, 2009 GS, 2008 GS
Model number: All
Spyder recommended maintanance
No. 2010-1

Front sprocket screw retightening (all models) at 10,000 km (6,000 miles) one time.

On certain vehicles, it is possible that the front sprocket assembly settles reducing the clamping force of the screw on the front sprocket. To maximize durability of the splines, the screw must be retightened.
Warning: Screw must be torqued to 110 N/m to 120 N/m (81 lbf/ft to 89 lbf/ft).

[tweeder]

Isn't there locktite or soms other thread locker already on, or should I pull mine out and add the thread locker and retighten just to be safe?

[LDFIREWORKS]

good info Mr DOC:2thumbs::2thumbs:

[NancysToy]

Thanks, Doc.

[wyliec]

Thanks. Since I just bought a torque wrench, I guess I may as well use it.

[SpyderByter]

Thanks Doc

[boborgera]

Dec 7, 2009
Models: 2010 RS/RT, 2009 GS, 2008 GS
Model number: All
Spyder recommended maintanance
No. 2010-1

Front sprocket screw retightening (all models) at 10,000 km (6,000 miles) one time.

On certain vehicles, it is possible that the front sprocket assembly settles reducing the clamping force of the screw on the front sprocket. To maximize durability of the splines, the screw must be retightened.
Warning: Screw must be torqued to 110 N/m to 120 N/m (81 lbf/ft to 89 lbf/ft).

:2thumbs:
When i first seen your post i went right down to my garage, I put the torque wrench on 85 and the bolt [16mm] turned a half turn, their seams to be a rubber washer in front of a medal one, when i tighten the bolt it compressed the rubber a little. I guess it was a little lose.
Thanks for the heads up.

[Rando]

Is it the large bolt that holds the front sprocket on? Will the whole sprocket try to turn when you tighten it, if so how do you keep it from turning?

[boborgera]

Is it the large bolt that holds the front sprocket on? Will the whole sprocket try to turn when you tighten it, if so how do you keep it from turning?


Yes large and only bolt 16mm. Left it in 1st gear. The only thing that
moved was the bolt [half turn] :thumbup:

[wyliec]

Yes large and only bolt 16mm. Left it in 1st gear. The only thing that
moved was the bolt [half turn] :thumbup:

I was wondering the same thing. Thanks

[groundeffect]

Dec 7, 2009
Models: 2010 RS/RT, 2009 GS, 2008 GS
Model number: All
Spyder recommended maintanance
No. 2010-1

Front sprocket screw retightening (all models) at 10,000 km (6,000 miles) one time.

On certain vehicles, it is possible that the front sprocket assembly settles reducing the clamping force of the screw on the front sprocket. To maximize durability of the splines, the screw must be retightened.
Warning: Screw must be torqued to 110 N/m to 120 N/m (81 lbf/ft to 89 lbf/ft).



Doc - THANKS for posting. Where did you find this, as I did not see it on the brp spyder site, anywhere, even in the Dec.2009 archives.:dontknow:


Quick Question: Since, the bulletin states to tighten this front sprocket screw at 10,000km, is there any harm in tightening it (or at least checking it well before that mileage) to be sure it is at between recommended torque settings of beteween 10 N/m to 120 N/m (81 lbf/ft to 89 lbf/ft)??


PS if anyone has the official link to this information, please feel free to post it.
Thank you again Doc for posting this. This is key for all those who do their own maintenance.

Thanks again!

[groundeffect]

Yes large and only bolt 16mm. Left it in 1st gear. The only thing that
moved was the bolt [half turn] :thumbup:


Just to be sure to clarify, this is the 16mm bolt that needs to be torqued, correct? - Pointed to by the red arrow?

(original picture taken by Lamont - borrowed from his awesome tech gallery album to help clarify)

[boborgera]

Just to be sure to clarify, this is the 16mm bolt that needs to be torqued, correct? - Pointed to by the red arrow?

(original picture taken by Lamont - borrowed from his awesome tech gallery album to help clarify)

:2thumbs:
Yes thats it,

[musicarcade]

I finally get my Spyder back on the road after 13 weeks in the shop and 2 bulletins appear right after (front sprocket and belt tension) I leave the shop.
Now I need to take it back?!:yikes:
Why is it I have a feeling that the service dept I had to take it to knows nothing about these bulletins?:dontknow:

:banghead:

[groundeffect]

I finally get my Spyder back on the road after 13 weeks in the shop and 2 bulletins appear right after (front sprocket and belt tension) I leave the shop.
Now I need to take it back?!:yikes:
Why is it I have a feeling that the service dept I had to take it to knows nothing about these bulletins?:dontknow:

:banghead:




Could you provide a link to the information (or the information inself) regarding the belt tension (or both bulletins?)? Is it for all models, etc...?

Thanks
PS Glad you have your spyder back though!

[krb1945]

after seeing the front sprocket problems saw the torque was only 77 ft lbs I thought that wasn't very much torque. I have a mower with only 1/3 the horse power and the blade torque on it is 90 ft lbs. Granted it is two different machines... but when you consider the Spyder has about a 100 HP... 77 ft lbs isn't much on a bolt that is delivering all the power to the wheel.

Thanks Doc for the update on this issue. /Ken

[NancysToy]

after seeing the front sprocket problems saw the torque was only 77 ft lbs I thought that wasn't very much torque. I have a mower with only 1/3 the horse power and the blade torque on it is 90 ft lbs. Granted it is two different machines... but when you consider the Spyder has about a 100 HP... 77 ft lbs isn't much on a bolt that is delivering all the power to the wheel.

Thanks Doc for the update on this issue. /Ken
Bolt torque values are based on the size and grade of the bolt, and whether or not they are lubed. The torque of the shaft has nothing to do with it. To deal with the stresses imparted on the fastener by the machine, the engineer has to design it with the right size and quality of shaft, splines, pulley, and fastener.

[Roaddog2]

Isn't there locktite or soms other thread locker already on, or should I pull mine out and add the thread locker and retighten just to be safe?When using a high strength loctite (Red) when you go to remove a bolt you have to apply some heat this bolt is in a high heat area.Just my 2 cents :ani29: I would just re tourqe at oil changes :doorag:They are probaley using a anti seizing compound there such as never seize in case you have to remove it someday.

[Donzo]

Just re-torqued mine to 85 - it turned a little over 1/2 a turn....

Good tip :2thumbs:

[spyryder]

Just checked mine, it was ok.:thumbup:

[SpyderWolf]

Thanks for posting this. It just adds another reason I need to go buy a torque wrench.

[larryd]

I just check mine, set torque wrench to 85 lbs. and the bolt didn't move..so it was OK...2008 SM5 6092 miles..:2thumbs:

[krb1945]

I have checked the 08 and the 08/09 manuals on this front sprocket issue. I'm referring to the use of thread locker or anti-seize. The 08 pg 166 and pg 330 make no mention of using either. The 08/09 pg 227 is the same. However, they do state if you remove the front sprocket bolt "replace it".

Has anyone seen a service bulletin recommending the use of one or the other of these items? /Ken

[boborgera]

Thanks for posting this. It just adds another reason I need to go buy a torque wrench.

If you don't have a torque wrench here's an old mechanics trick.
Tighten till it strips, then come back a 1/4 turn.:roflblack:

[SpyderWolf]

If you don't have a torque wrench here's an old mechanics trick.
Tighten till it strips, then come back a 1/4 turn.:roflblack:

I have already broken enough bolts, and was lucky enough to get them out. Those allen head screws holding in the oil filter are a pain. I do know where to get some more in case I ever need them again though. :opps:

[boborgera]

lucky enough to get them out. Those allen head screws holding in the oil filter are a pain.


I know' It's shame somebody couldn't come up with a spin on, or better
yet a remote filter. I know they do make remote filters for trucks.

[groundeffect]

At about 3000km now on my 2010 SM5 - I checked my front sprocket bolt (16mm bolt) and I'm in spec at 85lbf/ft :2thumbs:. I've also added this item to my 6,000km and 10,000km maintenance check list as per the service bulletin.


Thanks Doc, again for posting this information. I am happy to see it reach the boards like this, as I understand this information usually only goes to the dealers. Thus, for us who do own our maintenance, it is key information to have.

thanks again!
Cheers from Newfoundland!

[krb1945]

I just checked 2 08 SM5s and 1 09 SE5. I checked the torque at 60, 75, 80 and 89 and they were all tight... not one of them moved. However, I did not loosen them before re-torquing. Should you loosen them a bit and then torque or just torque them from their current torque. They all clicked the wrench at 89 and I did not go any higher./Ken

[groundeffect]

I just checked 2 08 SM5s and 1 09 SE5. I checked the torque at 60, 75, 80 and 89 and they were all tight... not one of them moved. However, I did not loosen them before re-torquing. Should you loosen them a bit and then torque or just torque them from their current torque. They all clicked the wrench at 89 and I did not go any higher./Ken


Hi there Ken. This is exactly what I did... ramped up the torque wrench from 50, 60, 70, 80 and 89. All clicked, so I did not make an adjustment.

I have added this item to my 6,000km and 10,000km checks when they come.

[docdoru]

Should you loosen them a bit and then torque or just torque them from their current torque.
Yes, 1/4 turn. :doorag:

[krb1945]

Thanks doc... next time I have the side off... I'll back them off a wee bit then torque. /Ken

[groundeffect]

Does anyone have a copy (scanned) of this service bulletin as a picture or jpeg?

If so, are you able to post it here, or please PM me.
thanks

[BRPjunkie]

Does anyone have a copy (scanned) of this service bulletin as a picture or jpeg?

If so, are you able to post it here, or please PM me.
thanks

Did anyone ever get a scan posted of this service bulletin?

[boborgera]

Did anyone ever get a scan posted of this service bulletin?

:popcorn::popcorn:??

[sylblk]

the new bolt comes with locktite on the threads. if you loosen the existing bolt, recommend you take it off and use blue locktite on threads then retorque.

[vlvtelvs]

After a fantastic long weekend at 70 mph in moderate traffic, you will lose power to your bike. Your belt falls off and hopefully you are going downhill and able to coast into a Chevron 6.5 miles south of a dealership.

You will get off of your bike and wonder what the heck happened. But of course you think it is somehow related to the fact that you just changed out your rear wheel prior to this excursion. When you go to put the belt back on, you notice there is no sprocket in the front.

Hmmmm, I've gone exactly 12,004. You talk your buddy into riding back to the dealer for a truck and trailer. Your trip ends with you riding two up on the way home and poor Spyder left at the dealership. The head of the bolt sheared off, and the sprocket was flung up under the bike somehow.

BRP and the dealer come thru with free tow, free fix, and a topped off fuel tank. Service doesn't get any better than that! :2thumbs:

[SethO]

After a fantastic long weekend at 70 mph in moderate traffic, you will lose power to your bike. Your belt falls off and hopefully you are going downhill and able to coast into a Chevron 6.5 miles south of a dealership.

You will get off of your bike and wonder what the heck happened. But of course you think it is somehow related to the fact that you just changed out your rear wheel prior to this excursion. When you go to put the belt back on, you notice there is no sprocket in the front.

Hmmmm, I've gone exactly 12,004. You talk your buddy into riding back to the dealer for a truck and trailer. Your trip ends with you riding two up on the way home and poor Spyder left at the dealership. The head of the bolt sheared off, and the sprocket was flung up under the bike somehow.

BRP and the dealer come thru with free tow, free fix, and a topped off fuel tank. Service doesn't get any better than that! :2thumbs:


Sorry you had the Exact your situation I had and BRP has to address this, it costing them money and happy owners going to unhappy owners. Mine should be done tomorrow, its been in since the day after spyderfest.

[bone crusher]

Are you guys serious? The belt came off? Come on!

The tech lowered mine from 1300/1400 to about 900...said would be safer than dropping to 400-600...

This made sense to me so I left the issue alone...

[NancysToy]

Are you guys serious? The belt came off? Come on!

The tech lowered mine from 1300/1400 to about 900...said would be safer than dropping to 400-600...

This made sense to me so I left the issue alone...
His belt came off because his front sprocket came off, not because the belt was loose. Don't let your tech second guess BRP's new spec. The old spec was 1500 + or -, but it was deemed OK if it was 1100 upon inspection. The RT spec came out at just half the original spec...750 + or -, just a few months ago. Now BRP has seen the need to cut that even further, to 450 + or -. There has to be a sound reason and some engineering knowhow behind this. I would not take your tech's word for his idea of safe. No disrespect, but he has not studied this the way BRP has.

[SpyderGirl]

Good to know... I'm almost at 24K miles... not sure if mine has ever been checked. I don't have a good torque wrench though.

[docdoru]

Good to know... I'm almost at 24K miles... not sure if mine has ever been checked. I don't have a good torque wrench though.
Go to a dealer and ask them to apply BRP bulletin No. 2010-1.:doorag:
You also have a major maintenance at 24k.

[SpyderWolf]

It took some effort on my part, and calling a couple of different dealers, but I was finally able to convince one of them to apply the belt tension and bolt torque service bulletins this Friday.

For some reason one of the major hold ups appeared to be the dealer trying to figure out who was going to pay for the application of said bulletins. I figured I would have to pay, but seriously it shouldn't take more than 15 minutes per Spyder should it?

I am hoping by being proactive on this we will avoid having any of the broken sprocket troubles on our two Spyders. :pray:

[SpyderGirl]

Go to a dealer and ask them to apply BRP bulletin No. 2010-1.:doorag:
You also have a major maintenance at 24k.

Yup, I will remember to ask about this when I take her in.

[Firefly]

Are you guys serious? The belt came off? Come on!

The tech lowered mine from 1300/1400 to about 900...said would be safer than dropping to 400-600...

This made sense to me so I left the issue alone...

I lowered mine to about 150 lbs which should be around 500 newtons and while it is MUCH looser than before--- I've ridden as hard as ever on the worst roads you can imagine--- and the belt didn't do anything strange--- worked great.

[Firefly]

It took some effort on my part, and calling a couple of different dealers, but I was finally able to convince one of them to apply the belt tension and bolt torque service bulletins this Friday.

For some reason one of the major hold ups appeared to be the dealer trying to figure out who was going to pay for the application of said bulletins. I figured I would have to pay, but seriously it shouldn't take more than 15 minutes per Spyder should it?

I am hoping by being proactive on this we will avoid having any of the broken sprocket troubles on our two Spyders. :pray:

I did mine myself--- took maybe 2 minutes to torque the front bolt and 1/2 hour to adjust the tension and align the belt--- and this was the first time I had done either.

Of the two, it seems to me that the belt tension would be more problematic than the bolt torque.

I'm going to order a new bolt to have an extra-- and might just change it out to avoid premature breakage due to 16000 miles of high belt-tension stress.

[SpyderWolf]

I did mine myself--- took maybe 2 minutes to torque the front bolt and 1/2 hour to adjust the tension and align the belt--- and this was the first time I had done either.

Of the two, it seems to me that the belt tension would be more problematic than the bolt torque.

I'm going to order a new bolt to have an extra-- and might just change it out to avoid premature breakage due to 16000 miles of high belt-tension stress.

One of my future modifications is to start buying all of the various special tools I need to do all of my own maintenance on the Spyders. If it only took you that long on your first attempt, then the tech should be able to get it done much quicker. At least I hope.

I think you have a good point about changing out the bolt as well, since yours may already be pretty stressed.

I would rather take a little time to have them look at everything now, than to be down for weeks due to a broken sprocket.

[RShrimp]

I was able to sneak a tourque wrench in there with a shalow socket on it by only removing the one "oil check" cover and then just flexing the other cover out of the way.

Mine was loose! All better now! Thanks DOC!

You know, you can buy a 1/2 inch drive click stop torque wrench at harbor freight for like $15

[Firefly]

I was able to sneak a tourque wrench in there with a shalow socket on it by only removing the one "oil check" cover and then just flexing the other cover out of the way.

Mine was loose! All better now! Thanks DOC!

You know, you can buy a 1/2 inch drive click stop torque wrench at harbor freight for like $15

I wouldn't trust ANY tool from Harbor Freight... especially to be accurate for torquing....

[BRPjunkie]

Mine goes in tomorrow for belt tension and sprocket bolt check. Possible to do it myself, but good chance to check out service at new dealer (Town & Country Sports) which is 12 miles from home. Big HD dealer, but owner bought a Spyder and picked up Can Am product line. Hope they are as good with Spyder as their reputation is with other service. Maybe I'll demo an RT while I'm waiting. :D

[bone crusher]

His belt came off because his front sprocket came off, not because the belt was loose. Don't let your tech second guess BRP's new spec. The old spec was 1500 + or -, but it was deemed OK if it was 1100 upon inspection. The RT spec came out at just half the original spec...750 + or -, just a few months ago. Now BRP has seen the need to cut that even further, to 450 + or -. There has to be a sound reason and some engineering knowhow behind this. I would not take your tech's word for his idea of safe. No disrespect, but he has not studied this the way BRP has.

Scotty,

Lemme restate what he said...he advised not dropping it fully at one shot...he knew I was going to my dealership this week for some work, hard bags, etc...he advised changing it to 900, riding it a lot, and then lowering it when I see them...figured it was safer to go a little slow with it...I have no idea if it makes a difference, but it was reasonable...

[BRPjunkie]

Did anyone ever get a scan posted of this service bulletin?

Dealer can't find Service Bulletin 2010-1 regarding sprocket bolt. Anyone have a copy????? :dontknow:

[boborgera]

Dealer can't find Service Bulletin 2010-1 regarding sprocket bolt. Anyone have a copy????? :dontknow:

:dontknow:
The whole world is wondering where is S/B 2010-1?? :popcorn:

[BRPjunkie]

:dontknow:
The whole world is wondering where is S/B 2010-1?? :popcorn:

Dealer still can't find SB 2010-1 regarding sprocket bolt. They will do belt tension check as they found SB 2010-10. They said they will not do bolt torque based on web site messages. Either BossWeb does not have SB 2010-1 or dealer can't find it. If anyone has a way to show the actual SB 2010-1 instead of what it says, please post.

[docdoru]

Dealer still can't find SB 2010-1 regarding sprocket bolt. They will do belt tension check as they found SB 2010-10. They said they will not do bolt torque based on web site messages.

:roflblack:

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm136/docdoru/DSC00926.jpg?t=1273178186
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm136/docdoru/DSC00919.jpg?t=1273178661
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm136/docdoru/DSC00920.jpg?t=1273178695
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm136/docdoru/DSC00925.jpg?t=1273178723

[bone crusher]

Dealer still can't find SB 2010-1 regarding sprocket bolt. They will do belt tension check as they found SB 2010-10. They said they will not do bolt torque based on web site messages. Either BossWeb does not have SB 2010-1 or dealer can't find it. If anyone has a way to show the actual SB 2010-1 instead of what it says, please post.

actually, tell them to find 2010-6. This is the one that addresses the new tension, according to Carlo...

[BRPjunkie]

actually, tell them to find 2010-6. This is the one that addresses the new tension, according to Carlo...

My typo. Belt tension SB is 2010-6. Thanks Doc for posting photo of SB 2010-1 on bolt torque. Dealer still desn't know why they can't find it, but your photo worked. BossWeb must not be as user friendly as SpyderLovers. :2thumbs:

[SpyderWolf]

Thanks for posting that Doc. It should be a big help if the dealer I am going to tomorrow cannot find it as well. :2thumbs:

[BRPjunkie]

Sure looks like a bolt to me.

[SpyderWolf]

Just got back from the dealer. Interestingly enough, my Spyder was actually good to go on everything. Bolt was at proper torque and belt was within the spec range. When we were in Daytona and Kurt checked the belt tension, he said mine was low but would be okay for me to keep running it like that. My wife's Spyder took 3/4 of a turn on the bolt to torque it back down, and they had to adjust the belt tension as hers was too high.

Yes, I did have to pay for these services to be performed.

[Firefly]

Just got back from the dealer. Interestingly enough, my Spyder was actually good to go on everything. Bolt was at proper torque and belt was within the spec range. When we were in Daytona and Kurt checked the belt tension, he said mine was low but would be okay for me to keep running it like that. My wife's Spyder took 3/4 of a turn on the bolt to torque it back down, and they had to adjust the belt tension as hers was too high.

Yes, I did have to pay for these services to be performed.

But the question is .... what did your tech consider 'in spec'.

Did they tell you the exact number?

[SpyderWolf]

But the question is .... what did your tech consider 'in spec'.

Did they tell you the exact number?

Details....details... :roflblack:

The bolts were torqued at 81 lbf/ft

My belt is currently at 545 N without any adjustment, and they adjusted hers down to 450N. They tested 3 separate times, with 3 attempts per test, and then averaged those together to get the final results.
Hers was originally at 715N, which reminded me that in Daytona Kurt also said hers was low but not as low as mine. It all makes sense now.

[Pogo]

Thanks all for this thread and the effort put into getting the right info. :2thumbs: I must have missed this while I was travelling. I'll check the sprocket tension and lower the belt tension (still at about 900N), on the weekend.

Cheers;

Pogo.

[gjco]

whats the chance of getting some of these bulletins edited and put into the how to section. That way those of us that do our own maintenance have a some sort of check list to go by. just an idea thank you.

[woodchuck]

Dec 7, 2009
Models: 2010 RS/RT, 2009 GS, 2008 GS
Model number: All
Spyder recommended maintanance
No. 2010-1

Front sprocket screw retightening (all models) at 10,000 km (6,000 miles) one time.

On certain vehicles, it is possible that the front sprocket assembly settles reducing the clamping force of the screw on the front sprocket. To maximize durability of the splines, the screw must be retightened.
Warning: Screw must be torqued to 110 N/m to 120 N/m (81 lbf/ft to 89 lbf/ft).

I have to agree with the torque of the bolt for the front sprocket. BUT, there is no way with the bolt being a little loose that it will cause your front sprocket to wear out the splines on the shaft or the pulley.
I put on a 30 tooth sprocket 4000 miles ago and so far no issues. The way the splines wear is too much with the wrist from a dead stop.:gaah:

[docdoru]

The way the splines wear is too much with the wrist from a dead stop.:gaah:
Please define "too much"...:opps:

[dave01]

Please define "too much"...:opps:

Doc, start your Spyder and ryde to my house. OK, now you know what too much is. For you, just a short ryde down the street.:-) :-) :-)

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk

[Firefly]

The way the splines wear is too much with the wrist from a dead stop.:gaah:

If that's the case then most of us are in big trouble....:D

[SpyderWolf]

If that's the case then most of us are in big trouble....:D

:agree: :D

Is too much wrist a full turn on the throttle, or only half of one? It seems to get me nearly the same results no matter which one I do. :dontknow: