Analogue temp and fuel gagues... disconnect

[strats]

Has anyone tried, or does anyone know if you disconnect the analogue gagues on a RT-S, do they just appear back on the LCD?

I just can't figure why we have a great colour screen in the middle of the cluster and the fit 2 analogue guages as a premium option? strange.

To be honest, I'd rather not have them.:dontknow:

[NancysToy]

Interesting question...wonder if the blanked out digitals are hard coded, changeable via BUDS, or automatically detected and switched? If it were done via BUDS, they might be able to be simply restored by the technician, but that option would surprise me. From the parts fiche, the sending units are the same, so showing either one...or both, should be possible. If we could see the instructions provided when the analog gauges are provided as an option, we might learn more. If you disconnect the gauges, let us know what happens.

[strats]

All I can say is "YAY.... I'M OFF TO THE SHED"

........ and 10 minutes later

NO MORE STUPID ANALOGUE GAUGES, now to order blanking plates.

Thanks Doc:ohyea:

[wcc002]

In the Spyder RT/RS advertisement booklet from the dealers, on page 4 in the photo of the "Multi-Function Gauge Cluster" the display does show gas (blue bars on right) and temperature (yellow bars on left) indicators.

Is that not the case on the real live Spyders? (I haven't gotten mine yet.)
Are you guys saying that only the analog gauges are displaying this info.?

[NancysToy]

In the Spyder RT/RS advertisement booklet from the dealers, on page 4 in the photo of the "Multi-Function Gauge Cluster" the display does show gas (blue bars on right) and temperature (yellow bars on left) indicators.

Is that not the case on the real live Spyders? (I haven't gotten mine yet.)
Are you guys saying that only the analog gauges are displaying this info.?
That is correct. With analog gauges fitted, the digital gauges are disable and blanked out. The Owner's Guide talks about this.

[spyder_RT]

did the I -Pod volume come up on the right to or do you lose this it don't look like there is room for both

[Jester]

Please post pictures as you proceed. :clap:

[bodymanpainter]

After you disconect the analog gauges are the digital gauges more accurate?:spyder2:

[Al Bragg]

Can you remove the anolog gauges and put in 12v outlets in there place?

[wcc002]

That's the pits. Called secondary gauges, you'd think both indicators, digital and analog, would show the information simultaneous.

[docdoru]

That is correct. With analog gauges fitted, the digital gauges are disable and blanked out. The Owner's Guide talks about this.
If it was me, I would keep the digitals and replace the analogs with a Volt Meter and an Oil Pressure. :doorag:

[spyder_RT]

did the I -Pod volume come up on the right to or do you lose this it don't look like there is room for both[

The picture I showed above is the normal default screen. I the IPOD is running as shown and you adjust the volume the gas gauge goes away and the volume adjust display pops up, when you are done the gas gauge reappears.

After you disconect the analog gauges are the digital gauges more accurate?

The Temp gauge appears to be good. I tested it by just letting the machine idle while watching the gauge. As it warmed up the bars climbed and the fan came on to maintain the temp because it was just sitting there. As for the gas gauge it indicates what I have in the tank better than the analog gauge does right now. The other day after I filled it up and drove 80 miles the analog gauge was at a quarter tank and the first mileage check I did was at 28.5 MPG. The gauge is off. Will check it next week when I drive it to work.

Doc
thank you for the info I like the digital gauges more I don't have to look side to side to see the gauge input all in one place

[bodymanpainter]

did the I -Pod volume come up on the right to or do you lose this it don't look like there is room for both[

The picture I showed above is the normal default screen. I the IPOD is running as shown and you adjust the volume the gas gauge goes away and the volume adjust display pops up, when you are done the gas gauge reappears.

After you disconect the analog gauges are the digital gauges more accurate?

The Temp gauge appears to be good. I tested it by just letting the machine idle while watching the gauge. As it warmed up the bars climbed and the fan came on to maintain the temp because it was just sitting there. As for the gas gauge it indicates what I have in the tank better than the analog gauge does right now. The other day after I filled it up and drove 80 miles the analog gauge was at a quarter tank and the first mileage check I did was at 28.5 MPG. The gauge is off. Will check it next week when I drive it to work.

Doc

Let us know if the fuel gage is more accurate than the analog gage.
Thanks:spyder:

[strats]

Let us know if the fuel gage is more accurate than the analog gage.
Thanks:spyder:

After 200 odd K's today, IMHO yes, a LOT more accurate...:dontknow:

[bodymanpainter]

After 200 odd K's today, IMHO yes, a LOT more accurate...:dontknow:

Thanks, I think I will disconect mine and remove the gauges and replace them with volt and oil pressure gauges if I can find out about a sending unit for the oil pressure gauge.:2thumbs:

[bodymanpainter]

You might have to tee into the system to use a oil pressure gauge. From the service the Engine Oil Pressure Switch is just that, it feeds either an open (GOOD pressure) or a ground (Below 4 lbs) to the ECM Module. When the engine is started and oil pressure reaches 4.4 PSI to 8.7 PSI it turns the oil light off on the console. The sensor is located on the Right hand side,bottom forward of the clutch housing. It is right by the bottom hose on the radiator.

Doc

Thanks for the info.:2thumbs:

[ynot9771]

Well, I did it and it works just fine ... like it a lot. Now what to do with a dead gas and temperature gauge? I really like the digital change!

Tony

[spyder_RT]

well I did it today tried to disconnect just the temp gauge it would not work you have to do both or none that is just weird :dontknow:

[spyder_RT]

I do like the temp gauge I guess it will have to be a volt and oil pressure gauge to replace them

[NancysToy]

well I did it today tried to disconnect just the temp gauge it would not work you have to do both or none that is just weird :dontknow:
Not surprised. The change is done by the cluster microprocessor programming. A good programmer would have reverted each separately, in case of gauge failure, but I'm not surprised they didn't think of it. Heck, I'm still puzzled as to why they decided to program it so it couldn't give us both.

Maybe I'll replace them with an altimeter and an air speed indicator, just to mess with people's minds. :D

[spyder_RT]

I would love to see that lol

[Prense01]

Anyone considering taking this to another level and trying to get both analog and digital gauges to function simulataneously? Seems like there would have to be a feedback loop (ground perhaps) so that the bike knows when the analog gauges are hooked up or not. Break the loop, maybe both work at the same time. :dontknow:


Chris

[strats]

Anyone considering taking this to another level and trying to get both analog and digital gauges to function simulataneously? Seems like there would have to be a feedback loop (ground perhaps) so that the bike knows when the analog gauges are hooked up or not. Break the loop, maybe both work at the same time. :dontknow:


Chris

Not me.... aside from hating the analogue's to start with, the way my fuel gauge is it would be a waste of time... AND they are opposite sides to the digitals.

[TicketBait]

Yes, Yes, Yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:ohyea:
I just removed the four screws and popped the Gauges out. Trick to getting the panel out is to turn the wheels hard right. Disconnected the wiring and started her up.

The Digital gas gauge comes up on the right side of the display with blue bars and the Digital Temp gauge comes up on the left side. after letting it warm up some it had yellow bars to start with. Didn't let it run to see if the color of the bars change as it got hotter. I just wanted to see if it worked. Looks like it is time to order a blank panel and use this space for some electrical switches or jacks. :yes::yes:


Please post pictures as you proceed. :clap:

So I wanna do this tomorrow, I probably have all the necessary tools, but if you know what size screw driver I need,I have a 3rd grade mentality when it comes to tinkering, I do know how
to jump start a vehicle with out it exploding, so please someone with a lot of patience walk me through the process. When he says he removed 4 screws, he's talking about the dash, when
he says disconnect the wiring ,is he talking about the connection to the gage? after disconnecting do I need to wrap electrical tape around the loose connectors?

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/TicketBait/DogsandCars/SPYDER%20RTS/bigear.gif

[bikeguy]

Maybe I'll replace them with an altimeter and an air speed indicator, just to mess with people's minds. :D

I was wondering what to put in there to get rid of the funky little blanks on my RT. Now I know. Great idea, Scotty.

Cotton

[NancysToy]

I was wondering what to put in there to get rid of the funky little blanks on my RT. Now I know. Great idea, Scotty.

Cotton
A voltmeter and an oil pressure gauge would probably be more practical.....but not near as much fun. :D

[TicketBait]

So I wanna do this tomorrow, I probably have all the necessary tools, but if you know what size screw driver I need,I have a 3rd grade mentality when it comes to tinkering, I do know how
to jump start a vehicle with out it exploding, so please someone with a lot of patience walk me through the process. When he says he removed 4 screws, he's talking about the dash, when
he says disconnect the wiring ,is he talking about the connection to the gage? after disconnecting do I need to wrap electrical tape around the loose connectors?

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/TicketBait/DogsandCars/SPYDER%20RTS/bigear.gif

I gave this thread a bump so someone could possibly answer my question I had in post #27

[manoman14]

I gave this thread a bump so someone could possibly answer my question I had in post #27

Take the 4 screws out of the dash panel. I think it is a T25 wrench, not supplied in the tool kit. The dash will then pull out. There are some clips holding it at the sides, so pull there. The only thing hooked to the panel are the gauges. The single wire is for the light, and there are 3 wires hooked together in a sort of harness. Very easy to see once you are this far. Unplug all from the back of the gauge. Don't really know if there is a need to tape the wires, though it couldn't hurt.
Take your time, you will be fine doing this. :D

[Mickay]

Hi , Gang!

Anybody find the oil pressure and the voltmeter to put in place of the gaz and temp gauge which kind of gauge we can put,

[TicketBait]

Take the 4 screws out of the dash panel. I think it is a T25 wrench, not supplied in the tool kit. The dash will then pull out. There are some clips holding it at the sides, so pull there. The only thing hooked to the panel are the gauges. The single wire is for the light, and there are 3 wires hooked together in a sort of harness. Very easy to see once you are this far. Unplug all from the back of the gauge. Don't really know if there is a need to tape the wires, though it couldn't hurt.
Take your time, you will be fine doing this. :D

Thanks for the detailed info, when I was at my dealership this morning they were reconnecting the frunk electric switch
,and I told the mechanic about how simple it was to disconnect the analog gauges and then it appears on the dash,
he said he hadn't taken out the 4 screws yet and was curious and 5 minutes later he did it for me :yes::clap:so I slipped him a $20, and rode on my way.

[NorthStar]

I have ordered a voltage gauge from a local marine dealer and it should arrive within the week. It is a 2" gauge with a stainless bezel, domed glass face, and black backing. The big thing is to make sure the rear fastener ring snugs up against the back of the dash panel so you get a waterproof seal with no gaps. I would like to install an oil pressure gauge as well, but that install is a bit beyond my technical expertise.

I plan on hooking the positive wire to a relay powered from the switched wire that currently provides the lighting for the existing analog gas gauge. This relay will be powered through my Blue Sea Fuse Block that I installed behind the liner in my front trunk.

If anyone does the oil pressure gauge hook up I would sure like to hear the details.

[fencepost]

Can you provide a part # and the name of your dealer? I used the same wire, orange/red, as the trigger wire when I installed a set of MotoLights on my wifes RT. I would also like to add the voltage gauge.

[NorthStar]

Picked up my voltage gauge today. It is a Teleflex Morse Signature Series Voltage Gauge. Part No. 63478P. I went with the Sterling unit because I liked the look of the silver face plate rather than the black face plate.

I will remove the analog temperature gauge and plug the hole with a cap that my dealer gave to me.

[InspectorGadget]

I pulled the plugs on my analog guages today. It took all of 5 minutes.
Back out the 4 screws, turn the bars hard right, carefully pull out the dash, unplug the 1 plug & 1 wire on each guage, stuff the wires in the space to the outboard side of the guage wells, re-insert the dash , and re-install the screws. Done.
Now I have to look for matching oil pressure/voltmeter guages.
C-YA RL

[Prense01]

My temp gauge seems fine. My fuel gauge is steady, runs the scale very quickly. After 37 miles on a full tank, it shows about half scale. After 74 miles, it is just getting into the red. At this point, I cannot squeeze 3 gallons of fuel in even though he gauge is almost in he red.

My question is... How accurately does the digital gauge represent the fuel tank?

I assume it is represented with digital "bars". I will be willing to do this mod if the end result is a gauge that is predictable and more accurate than the analog gauge.

Chris :spyder:

[TicketBait]

My temp gauge seems fine. My fuel gauge is steady, runs the scale very quickly. After 37 miles on a full tank, it shows about half scale. After 74 miles, it is just getting into the red. At this point, I cannot squeeze 3 gallons of fuel in even though he gauge is almost in he red.

My question is... How accurately does the digital gauge represent the fuel tank?

I assume it is represented with digital "bars". I will be willing to do this mod if the end result is a gauge that is predictable and more accurate than the analog gauge.

Chris :spyder:

my analog fuel gauge was doing the same as yours, didn't bounce around but was not accurate.
Since I recently did this I have not been able to decipher what each bar represents for amount of fuel left, however when
I gassed up today with just 3 bars left at the bottom I put in 4.258 gallons of gas

I also like how the Cluster changes color depending on whether it's night or day
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/TicketBait/DogsandCars/SPYDER%20RTS/Spyder007-1.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/TicketBait/DogsandCars/SPYDER%20RTS/Spyder001.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/TicketBait/DogsandCars/SPYDER%20RTS/Spyder003-1.jpg

[Prense01]

Thanks for the pictures and information. I am currently filling up once a day for a 74 mile round trip to work. I know I should be able to easily extend that to one and a half trips and most likely two full trips. Staring at that gauge in the red makes me nervous lol. Obviously I am still fairly new to the bike. Anyway, the information you provided is reassuring to me.

Chris :spyder:

[spyder1]

Can you remove the anolog gauges and put in 12v outlets in there place?
Good idea...anyone??

[dave01]

Good idea...anyone??
Thats my plan, at least for one and an ammeter for the other

[Sopher]

Check out my new 12v gauge: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18907

Enjoy.

[Mickay]

Hi ,

I order and receive this kind of gauge the price is cheap the quality is really good.

Oil pressure and Voltmeter.work very well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260624952113&category=33676&_trksid=p4506.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D2%26ps%3D 6%26clkid%3D7463407465976089910

[chris56]

really good idea - good place to install the GPS !!
chris (austria)

[zztop69]

Hey Guys
Might want to look at these gauges they are waterproof,come in chrome and colors
http://www.topnotchperformancemarine...productid=1355 (http://www.topnotchperformancemarine.com/~topnotch/product.php?productid=1355) :clap:

[SpyderAnn01]

I've had my bouncing gas guage replaced twice and now that the third gauge has started bouncing I decided to unplug them. I had not wanted to do this because it makes me mad that 1) they don't work 2) these are an "upgrade" that cost more and don't work and 3) now I have disconnected gauges to look at. But I can't rely totally on the trip meter as sometimes I forget to reset it so today I went ahead and unplugged them. I found the T15 torx in the hubby's tool chest and went to work. Five minutes and all done!

[SpyderAnn01]

3068330684 I used the white LED. Those look good but that is a little much for me to attempt by myself. For now I'm happy with digital fuel display!

[SpydherLuv]

This thread has me curious as to how you could remove a 'water temp' analog gauge and replace it with a digital 'oil temp' gauge, or a volt meter. :dontknow: I would assume there is a different set of wires you would use to connect the digital gauge to, right??
If so, does anyone have step-by-step instructions?

[SpyderAnn01]

This thread has me curious as to how you could remove a 'water temp' analog gauge and replace it with a digital 'oil temp' gauge, or a volt meter. :dontknow: I would assume there is a different set of wires you would use to connect the digital gauge to, right??
If so, does anyone have step-by-step instructions?

Here is one thread that has step by step instructions http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?19125-Help-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-Installation&highlight=volt+meter

[HedonismBot]

I just did this mod to our new 2012 RT-S and wanted to add a little tip to help out people that may be like me (mechanically disinclined). Removing the dash and wires is exactly as described although you don't NEED to remove the single wire to get the digital readout. Perhaps a fun benefit of leaving the lights on is that everyone thinks you drive a cold bike that can run on empty.

To the tip...I had a "hard" time putting the dash back in. The sides would not stay in when putting the screws back in (even tightening each down a little at a time). What finally made it pop into place properly for me was to make sure the top of the dash piece was seated properly. There's a spot behind the dash and on the dash piece itself that needs to fit properly. Trying to line up one edge and then the other of the dash piece got me nowhere other than all shouty and mad. Starting by aligning and pressing at the top center of the dash had everything "pop" right in making it ready to be screwed back down.

[Bob Denman]

The question of how to fill those empty pods has had me thinking: (I know that's a scary concept for most of you... :shocked:)
How about a turbo boost gauge that's pegged deep into the red, and a dilithium crystal utilization gauge?
I like the airspeed indcator; how about adding a weapons status guage?
Intake and exhaust temperatures? What goes in, must come out!
Altimeter and barometric pressure for the mountain-climbing enthuiasts? (I know!)
Resale value and accessory value indicators for the truly suicidal?
I've wasted enough of everybody's time now... :roflblack:

[HedonismBot]

The question of how to fill those empty pods has had me thinking: (I know that's a scary concept for most of you... :shocked:)
How about a turbo boost gauge that's pegged deep into the red, and a dilithium crystal utilization gauge?
I like the airspeed indcator; how about adding a weapons status guage?
Intake and exhaust temperatures? What goes in, must come out!
Altimeter and barometric pressure for the mountain-climbing enthuiasts? (I know!)
Resale value and accessory value indicators for the truly suicidal?
I've wasted enough of everybody's time now... :roflblack:

I like the idea of a barometer. Reminds me of the unit in the house growing up. It might serve a function to warn of impending rain or weather change for those of us with XM weather (or who don't want to look up at the clouds). As for the exhaust temperature gauge, do I put this directly onto the seat below my butt or is it wireless and *shudder* inserted. :opps:

[ARtraveler]

I like your ideas for replacement gauges. I was thinking altimeter. I really like the dilithium crystal usage gauge idea. That would be pretty cool.

[NancysToy]

Altimeter and artificial horizon would do it nicely.

[Rando]

G-Meter

[Arr MiHardies]

Plutonium gauge?

[SpyderFun]

Not surprised. The change is done by the cluster microprocessor programming. A good programmer would have reverted each separately, in case of gauge failure, but I'm not surprised they didn't think of it. Heck, I'm still puzzled as to why they decided to program it so it couldn't give us both.
Answer: "Hind Sight" is always 20/20 & "Common Sense" is not a birthright!

Maybe I'll replace them with an altimeter and an air speed indicator, just to mess with people's minds. :D

A man after my own heart! :bowdown:
With a bigger engine and accompanying trans we could even look at installing a Mach Speed indicator! :roflblack:

[SpyderFun]

Altimeter and artificial horizon would do it nicely.


Lets just go for broke and install a full Flight Management System coupled to BRP for automatic notification of an impending problem so parts can be ordered & sent to your dealer to minimize down time! And with FMS we could even couple it to our DPS for a "Look Ma - No Hands" experience! :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack:

Well why not dream BIG..... :pray:

[shelbydave]

The question of how to fill those empty pods has had me thinking: (I know that's a scary concept for most of you... :shocked:)
How about a turbo boost gauge that's pegged deep into the red, and a dilithium crystal utilization gauge?
I like the airspeed indcator; how about adding a weapons status guage?
Intake and exhaust temperatures? What goes in, must come out!
Altimeter and barometric pressure for the mountain-climbing enthuiasts? (I know!)
Resale value and accessory value indicators for the truly suicidal?
I've wasted enough of everybody's time now... :roflblack:

I put a Flux Capacitor in the Left hand space. It's set to 20 minutes back so If I'm gonna get pulled over, I just speed up to 88MPH, and then I get to go by the same cop in 20 minutes (at a slower speed)

The Right hand is now a button to launch the Tomahawks in case there's a road block keeping me from getting to 88MPH...

[Bob Denman]

:2thumbs: I like a man with a plan! :2thumbs:

A counter to keep track of speeding ticket costs
Mach/Warp speed indicator? Switches from one to the other when things get "interesting" in top gear...

Maybe for Doc or Fly when they've got their ears pinned back??

[schnauzermom]

OMG...I said...OMG.

I am a 61yr old female and after reading about how easy it was to disconnect gauges I thought I would give it a try. AND I DID iT!!!! I've wanted the analogs gone ever since I purchased my RT in March, but didn't want to make a special trip to dealer to have them do it. Thanks all for your knowledge and sharing. Now, as some are, will decide what to replace them with. This forum is awesome!!!

[Wiredux]

I just picked up my 2012 RT 5 days ago and I cant stand the analog gauges. I find the fuel one completely inaccurate. I was in the red and fuel light on and it only took 3 gal to fill it back up. I am doing this tomorrow. Does any one have any pics of what they have replaced them with? Also does anyone know if this will void the warranty?