RT-S Limp Home!

[Dwight]

Well, it happened to me this afternoon. Got home from work and temp was 50, decided to go for a quick ride. On my way home, about 25 miles out, cruising at 65mph and it just shut off! Coasted down to around 45 - 50 and started running again but wouldn't take throttle. Check engine light was blinking, bike would run about 50 so pulled into a roadside park. Shut it off, waited a few minutes, started it right up but check engine light was still flashing. Noticed in the display that the check engine light would come on 3 or 4 times and then I would get a DPS fault. It bounced back and forth between check engine and DPS until I got home and shut it off. Anybody got any ideas? I'm due for the first service but it's gonna be a Pain in the a-- to trailer it down to the shop. Hope this isn't something that happens very often.

Dwight

[Lamonster]

If you want to read the code to give to your dealer before you go do this.

Hold down the "mode" and "set" button
While holding down the "mode" and "set" button push in the turn signal button. Screen will be blank if there is no code.

This will give you the error code numbers for your dealer to look up.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=494&pictureid=7772

[groundeffect]

Well, it happened to me this afternoon. Got home from work and temp was 50, decided to go for a quick ride. On my way home, about 25 miles out, cruising at 65mph and it just shut off! Coasted down to around 45 - 50 and started running again but wouldn't take throttle. Check engine light was blinking, bike would run about 50 so pulled into a roadside park. Shut it off, waited a few minutes, started it right up but check engine light was still flashing. Noticed in the display that the check engine light would come on 3 or 4 times and then I would get a DPS fault. It bounced back and forth between check engine and DPS until I got home and shut it off. Anybody got any ideas? I'm due for the first service but it's gonna be a Pain in the a-- to trailer it down to the shop. Hope this isn't something that happens very often.

Dwight



Curious to know if the steering felt any different before and after the LIMP mode occurred, or after you pulled over and drove off again? Clearly the system things there is something wrong with the Dynamic Power Steering unit/system, as it indicated by the check engine and DPS flashing on the cluster. Did you notice any change, what so ever in the steering (ie: harder to steering - more force required to steering, or any binding of sorts in the handlebar?).


Not sure, but worth a shot - are the relays and fuses all properly seated in their slots in the fuse box(es)? Give them a press in to be sure they are all in their slots and have not loosened or popped out.

Hope that helps. Between this forum and the dealer, I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of the issue one way or another.

Cheers.

[dave01]

If you want to read the code to give to your dealer before you go do this.



Great info to know. Thanks Lamont:2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs:

[SpyderGirl]

My GS did something very similar in the early days of ownership... three times in the same day. Never did it again and the light never came back. I was cruising on the freeway about about 65 - 70 MPH

[Dwight]

Thanks for that info Lamont! I'll try that and see what I get. I didn't notice any difference in the steering. Actually didn't notice any differences at all except it was rpm limited. I will also give the fuses and relays a look. I'll call the dealer today while I'm at work, I need to schedule the 600 service and if he got my CB and GPS in I can have that done while it's there. This doesn't do much for my confidence in the RT for the big trip in June. Probably something simple (I hope!).

Dwight

[groundeffect]

Thanks for that info Lamont! I'll try that and see what I get. I didn't notice any difference in the steering. Actually didn't notice any differences at all except it was rpm limited. I will also give the fuses and relays a look. I'll call the dealer today while I'm at work, I need to schedule the 600 service and if he got my CB and GPS in I can have that done while it's there. This doesn't do much for my confidence in the RT for the big trip in June. Probably something simple (I hope!).

Dwight


Hi Dwight, thanks for the update. Good to hear the steering didn't feel any different.

Good luck with the service check - it will be interesting to see what codes you great from Lamont's note, and also what the dealer is able to provide with the BUDS computer system hookup.
Good luck and please keep us updated.

Cheers.

[2Gunns]

sounds very simular to what happened to me on my intial ride home, Everything you mentioned...then whole screen turned orange. Dealer had me turn bike off, remove key and try again. He was very insistent as to me removing the key. Bazinga...problem averted !

That was at 98 miles odometer, I'm now ready for my 600 mile service and have had ZERO issues since (knock-on-wood).

[scdtrd]

Just curious if BRP outsourced any of the "throttle by wire" components from Toyota.... Might have gotten a good deal on them at the time... Just sayin.

[Dwight]

Tried the key removal thing, didn't help. I called the service dept, they didn't have any new reports. I'm going to try reading the code when I get home, then call the service tech back and let him know. Maybe he will have some ideas then. Also going to take it in Saturday for the 600 and whatever they have to do to fix it.
I sure hope your joking about the Toyota thing:roflblack: that would just suck!

Dwight

[groundeffect]

Tried the key removal thing, didn't help. I called the service dept, they didn't have any new reports. I'm going to try reading the code when I get home, then call the service tech back and let him know. Maybe he will have some ideas then. Also going to take it in Saturday for the 600 and whatever they have to do to fix it.
I sure hope your joking about the Toyota thing:roflblack: that would just suck!

Dwight


Good luck this weekend, Dwight.

[krb1945]

loose fuses. My SM did that one time and the only thing found was a loose fuse in the trunk fuse box. After pushing it back tight... everything started working normally. I don't remember which one it was. Maybe this will help your problem. /Ken

[groundeffect]

loose fuses. My SM did that one time and the only thing found was a loose fuse in the trunk fuse box. After pushing it back tight... everything started working normally. I don't remember which one it was. Maybe this will help your problem. /Ken

Hi Ken, does your front fuse box cover have foam installed on it to help keep pressure on the fuses, so they stay in? My RS 2010 SM5 does, from the factory.

Cheers.

[Dwight]

OK, got home from work and started up the RT. No check engine light, no DPS fault, everything is ok!! Went ahead and checked both fuse boxes and pushed on all of the fuses and relays. Couldn't tell if any were loose. Checked oil just in case. 40 degrees and rain so I didn't ride it. Not finding anything wrong with it after it sat all night worries me more than finding something! I think I'll wait until next week to take it in for service, that will give me a chance to ride it some more and see if anything happens again. Maybe I need someone to give me a gremlin bell!!:D

Dwight

[Lamonster]

If you want to read the code to give to your dealer before you go do this.

Hold down the "mode" and "set" button
While holding down the "mode" and "set" button press thee "PTT" button.

This will give you the error code numbers for your dealer to look up.



I just tried this on my RT and it didn't work. I made a call and either it didn't show a code because I don't have any codes to show or maybe you have to hit the PTT button 5 times real fast to get it to work "if" you have a code. As soon as I know for sure what the deal is I'll let you know.

[Dwight]

I did try that to see if I had any codes, couldn't get anything to come up. Same deal, maybe I didn't have any codes? Let us know if you come up with some other way.

Thanks
Dwight

[bikeguy]

The shop manual I ordered off eBay says to read the codes by holding down "mode" "set" and push the "turn signal" button. My Spyder hasn't come in yet so I can't try it to see if it works. Incidentally, the manual also gives you a chart showing what the codes indicate.

Cotton

[Lamonster]

The shop manual I ordered off eBay says to read the codes by holding down "mode" "set" and push the "turn signal" button. My Spyder hasn't come in yet so I can't try it to see if it works. Incidentally, the manual also gives you a chart showing what the codes indicate.

Cotton
It could be they changed t on the production units. Mine is now up to production specs so maybe that's why it's not working the old way. I'll try it the other way. Thanks.

[Wheeler~]

Well, it happened to me this afternoon. Got home from work and temp was 50, decided to go for a quick ride. On my way home, about 25 miles out, cruising at 65mph and it just shut off! Coasted down to around 45 - 50 and started running again but wouldn't take throttle. Check engine light was blinking, bike would run about 50 so pulled into a roadside park. Shut it off, waited a few minutes, started it right up but check engine light was still flashing. Noticed in the display that the check engine light would come on 3 or 4 times and then I would get a DPS fault. It bounced back and forth between check engine and DPS until I got home and shut it off. Anybody got any ideas? I'm due for the first service but it's gonna be a Pain in the a-- to trailer it down to the shop. Hope this isn't something that happens very often.

Dwight

I'm experiencing some of the same problems, At first, around 650 miles to about 1100 miles, my check engine light came on about 5 times and stayed on between 30 seconds and about five minutes but then always disappeared. I took it into the dealership and a diagnostic check showed the engine had been lugged 207 times. I've noticed in Cruise Control mode it seems to have to work to maintain the set cruise speed on even the slightest incline. Since then, between 1100 miles and the 1364 miles I have on it today, that DPS light, the one with the red circle with the exclamation point in it, has shown up twice for about 30 seconds each time. The dealership contacted BRP about the diagnostic and BRP said I need to bring in my bike until the dealership experiences the same warning lights and they experience the lugging. I have a couple of rides planned and Bike Week Daytona coming up and told the dealership I'd bring it in after these events. They said that shouldn't be a problem. I sure hope it won't be!

[NancysToy]

I'm experiencing some of the same problems, At first, around 650 miles to about 1100 miles, my check engine light came on about 5 times and stayed on between 30 seconds and about five minutes but then always disappeared. I took it into the dealership and a diagnostic check showed the engine had been lugged 207 times. I've noticed in Cruise Control mode it seems to have to work to maintain the set cruise speed on even the slightest incline. Since then, between 1100 miles and the 1364 miles I have on it today, that DPS light, the one with the red circle with the exclamation point in it, has shown up twice for about 30 seconds each time. The dealership contacted BRP about the diagnostic and BRP said I need to bring in my bike until the dealership experiences the same warning lights and they experience the lugging. I have a couple of rides planned and Bike Week Daytona coming up and told the dealership I'd bring it in after these events. They said that shouldn't be a problem. I sure hope it won't be!
I am not sure how a diagnostic shows actual lugging, unless by that they mean rpm below the idle setting...or knock sensors going off. The DPS warning indicates something more than mere low rpm excursions under load, though. I would not trust it for a trip, no matter how disappointing. Meanwhile, here are a couple of other things to consider:

1. I had trouble with spark plug fouling. It will make the Spyder start poorly and idle poorly...or even stall. It could also cause "lugging" and poor performance. Pays to check or replace.

2. Be sure you are running the recommended premium fuel. If the knock sensors cut back the timing to compensate for a lower grade fuel, I suppose it could be interpreted by the diagnostics (or the tech) as "lugging".

Let us know how you make out.

[Wheeler~]

I am not sure how a diagnostic shows actual lugging, unless by that they mean rpm below the idle setting...or knock sensors going off. The DPS warning indicates something more than mere low rpm excursions under load, though. I would not trust it for a trip, no matter how disappointing. Meanwhile, here are a couple of other things to consider:

1. I had trouble with spark plug fouling. It will make the Spyder start poorly and idle poorly...or even stall. It could also cause "lugging" and poor performance. Pays to check or replace.

2. Be sure you are running the recommended premium fuel. If the knock sensors cut back the timing to compensate for a lower grade fuel, I suppose it could be interpreted by the diagnostics (or the tech) as "lugging".

Let us know how you make out.

Hey Scotty, I only use the highest grade gas at the pumps. I can rule that out but the spark plug thing sounds like that could be a definite possibility. I'll be sure and suggest they check that out. Thanks for the advice!

[groundeffect]

Newbie Question Alert:


Lugging - what is lugging, exactly?

My guess - situation where the engine rpm drops too low for the gear it is in to maintain adequate power???:dontknow:

[Wheeler~]

Newbie Question Alert:


Lugging - what is lugging, exactly?

My guess - situation where the engine rpm drops too low for the gear it is in to maintain adequate power???:dontknow:
The best explanation I can give is, the bike feels like it is having to pull hard to maintain the cruising speed it's at, that when you throttle up, for a second or two, it's a slipping, almost grinding feeling to get back to that same cruising speed again. Sorry I don't know how else to describe it.

[Dwight]

The lugging thing interests me. Although I'm pretty sure "lugging it ":D isn't my problem, if there is an actual fault for that, it will sure as heck show up after the problem began. Once it went to limp mode if you tried to exceed the limit rpm in any gear it would start bucking, enough so I had to back off the throttle some and then slowly bring it back up to speed. The bucking was kinda like what you would have when you shifted your "3 on the tree" from low to hi without using 2nd. OK, if you understand that your at least as old as I am.:clap: May be some time before I can get it out to ride, we're in a Severe Winter Storm Warning until Monday evening. Anyway, keep up with the ideas, it all helps.

Guess I'll go out and try Mode - Set - Turnsignal and see if anything shows up.

Thanks all
Dwight

[Lamonster]

I edited my post above.


If you want to read the code to give to your dealer before you go do this.

Hold down the "mode" and "set" button
While holding down the "mode" and "set" button push in the turn signal button. Screen will be blank if there is no code.

[Wheeler~]

One of the guys I rode with today came over to my bike and said he could smell gas and sure enough, I did too. He thought it might be some kind of converter? I'm starting to think the suggestion to have the dealership check for a bad plug might be a good one too. Anyone else with an opinion on the smell of gas and cause?

[NancysToy]

One of the guys I rode with today came over to my bike and said he could smell gas and sure enough, I did too. He thought it might be some kind of converter? I'm starting to think the suggestion to have the dealership check for a bad plug might be a good one too. Anyone else with an opinion on the smell of gas and cause?Lots of possibilities...overfilled gas tank; spilled fuel when filling; bad plug, wire or coil; bad purge valve; fuel line leak (dangerous!); or "just because" as on the early GS models. I suggest you see your dealer ASAP, or at least tear off the body panels to inspect the fuel lines and try to isolate the source.

[Wheeler~]

Lots of possibilities...overfilled gas tank; spilled fuel when filling; bad plug, wire or coil; bad purge valve; fuel line leak (dangerous!); or "just because" as on the early GS models. I suggest you see your dealer ASAP, or at least tear off the body panels to inspect the fuel lines and try to isolate the source.
Over filled gas tank and spilled fuel can be ruled out. I guess all of the others could be a possibility. Thanks again Scotty

[westgl]

Gas cap is not on or loose, or It will throw a code like a car.

How many miles does your Spyder have on it?
If a lot of miles. Has the air filter been changed?

An air filter that is really dirty, pretty much clogged up will cause a strong gas smell and a rich condition, the bike will not run have full power.

Westgl

[Wheeler~]

Gas cap is not on or loose, or It will throw a code like a car.

How many miles does your Spyder have on it?
If a lot of miles. Has the air filter been changed?

An air filter that is really dirty, pretty much clogged up will cause a strong gas smell and a rich condition, the bike will not run have full power.

Westgl

Bike has 1500 miles on it, Gas cap tightens down well. Air filter, I would think, shouldn't be clogged up yet. Still, thanks for suggestions.

[spyryder]

One of the guys I rode with today came over to my bike and said he could smell gas and sure enough, I did too. He thought it might be some kind of converter? I'm starting to think the suggestion to have the dealership check for a bad plug might be a good one too. Anyone else with an opinion on the smell of gas and cause?

Probably coming from the vent hose on your vapor canister. Could be software related due to purge valve not opening soon enough. It's believed this was also a problem on GS/RS models which had fuel smells.

[Dwight]

Sounds like they might have found the problem. I took it in for the 600 service on the 27th. They were working on it before I left which kinda surprised me. I forgot to have them adjust the front shocks so I called them about 3:30 to add it to the list. The service guy said they thought they had already found the limp mode problem. He said it was a sensor (Lean Angle?) that wasn't working or wasn't working right. Whichever one it was is an expensive part and he said they would have to contact BRP. I don't expect that to be a problem but they may have to keep it a little longer. I did ride it down there and didn't have any problems but it will sure feel better riding if they actually find and fix it. I should know more this week, he said he would call me as soon as they found out for sure. Of course the weather is supposed to be much better this week!

Dwight

[widowmaker2011]

Wheeler , did you get it looked at? Are you headed back to the dealer that sold it to you out of state or asking a local dealer to do the work? Would be a long haul to run back and forth to selling dealer but wondering if the local dealer that didn't get the sale is being accommodating? :dontknow:

[Wheeler~]

Wheeler , did you get it looked at? Are you headed back to the dealer that sold it to you out of state or asking a local dealer to do the work? Would be a long haul to run back and forth to selling dealer but wondering if the local dealer that didn't get the sale is being accommodating? :dontknow:
No Widowmaker, I haven't had it looked at yet but went to Bike Week in Daytona today and to the Spyder tent at Daytona Speedway and met Lamont. He said there would be a BRP rep there Thursday who would be able to look at and possibly know a fix for my dash error messages. If he's unable to fix the problem I have an appt with Deland Motor Sports who will do an in depth search. They have been great. They did my 600 mile service. They are still a ways away from Orlando but worth the drive. I'll let you know how Thursday goes. Got my fingers crossed.

[ThreeWheels]

I'm wondering, has anyone tried to force the computer to reboot?
Disconnect the battery for a half hour or so and then reconnect it.
Just a suggestion. Any thoughts?

[NancysToy]

I'm wondering, has anyone tried to force the computer to reboot?
Disconnect the battery for a half hour or so and then reconnect it.
Just a suggestion. Any thoughts?
Doesn't happen. You just end up having to reset the clock.