BRP 1" handlebar risers

[stgilmer]

Just ordered a set of BRP 1" risers, my dealer wanted $180 to install. Also said that the instructions that come with them are very vague.

If anyone that has put them on has time, please post some detailed instructions. Have searched the posts and haven't seen any. Thanks!

[tatt2r]

the brp 1 inch riser is not a pair it is single it goes under your handle bars and replaces the part the handle bars bolt to .... i have it on mine and my girl friends spyder with magicmans 3 inch risers if you are not good with working on spyder it is not an easy task to put it in ,,,, .... you need a gear puller i had to buy one from pepboys ,,,, good luck...

[stgilmer]

the brp 1 inch riser is not a pair

My bad on that, I knew it was only one part. I have people that know a heck of alot more than I do that will help. Did you go by the instructs that came with it? Just didn't know if there were more details I might need.

[boborgera]

Just ordered a set of BRP 1" risers, my dealer wanted $180 to install. Also said that the instructions that come with them are very vague.

If anyone that has put them on has time, please post some detailed instructions. Have searched the posts and haven't seen any. Thanks!

I think 1'' risers are a waste of time and money. I went with 3'' [magicman] I should have gone with 4'' I'm 5' 11''

[BRPjunkie]

Just ordered a set of BRP 1" risers, my dealer wanted $180 to install. Also said that the instructions that come with them are very vague.

If anyone that has put them on has time, please post some detailed instructions. Have searched the posts and haven't seen any. Thanks!

It is a real PITA to install. My dealer has a $90/hr labor rate and while the instructions say 1 hour, it takes longer. I did it myself and it took over two hours. You have to remove several blind bolts of different sizes and the instructions don't tell what size. You need a slim head 1/4" drive ratchet to slide into the blind spots and a special puller to get the stock riser off. If you're lucky and don't drop any bolts or tools into the belly of the beast, the reassembly goes easier simply due to the extra inch of space to work in. Small hands help. If you have the time, the tools and the patience, you can do it. The instructions that come with it are detailed with photos, its just that you can't see what you are doing under there and most of it is by feel. 1" was enough for me, but many want the extra comfort of the 3"-4" risers.

[Freddy]

I'm with Junkie. I had all the right tools to fit mine. My only fear was dropping a screw, never to be retrieved. Put a rag around the steering shaft and get ya 9yo daughter to take the screws out for you.

[BRPjunkie]

I'm with Junkie. I had all the right tools to fit mine. My only fear was dropping a screw, never to be retrieved. Put a rag around the steering shaft and get ya 9yo daughter to take the screws out for you.

So easy, even a nine year old can do it, but most of us are cavemen. You also need a nine year old metric savant to tell the difference (by feel) between a 6mm, 8mm and 10mm bolt. :D

[stgilmer]

Thanks guys, the way the dealer made it sound was impossible by the instructions. Think they just wanted that hourly pay.

[RJB]

Dealer convinced me to have them install the 1" riser when I ordered my bike. After the install I was ok with the ride position buy not my 5'7" wife, so 2 months later I installed the ESI 3" risers. Now the wife is happy and much to my surprise I prefer it mostly because the bike is easier to corner! I wouldn't waste money on the 1", just go right to the 4".

[NancysToy]

Dealer convinced me to have them install the 1" riser when I ordered my bike. After the install I was ok with the ride position buy not my 5'7" wife, so 2 months later I installed the ESI 3" risers. Now the wife is happy and much to my surprise I prefer it mostly because the bike is easier to corner! I wouldn't waste money on the 1", just go right to the 4".
:agree: We did OK with the 1" until Nancy got her Comfort Seat, which prevented her from moving forward on the seat. After adding the 3" ESI risers, it was like doubling the power steering, because you can ride with your elbows bent and use both arms to turn.

[3whlLefty]

:agree: We did OK with the 1" until Nancy got her Comfort Seat, which prevented her from moving forward on the seat. After adding the 3" ESI risers, it was like doubling the power steering, because you can ride with your elbows bent and use both arms to turn.

My comfort seat keeps pushing me forward. How does Nancy's keep her in place? Does this need breaking in? Should I try crushing the padding at the rear half of the rider's section? I'd love that problem.

[NancysToy]

My comfort seat keeps pushing me forward. How does Nancy's keep her in place? Does this need breaking in? Should I try crushing the padding at the rear half of the rider's section? I'd love that problem.
Don't know any reason for the difference, except different body geometry. The old seat was not dished at all, so she (or I) could slide anywhere. At 5'2" she naturally slid forward so her arms would reach. I just shifted side-to-side, as needed for turns. The Comfort Seat is dished a bit and wider at the rear, with just enough rise toward the front to force either of us to ride in one place...at the rear. Neither of us has noticed the problem you seem to have. Very confusing! It just goes to prove how difficult it is to compare seats. What is tremendous for one person is a torture chamber to another.

[stgilmer]

BRP PARTS CATOLOG:
http://epc.brp.com/login.aspx?ReturnUrl=%2fDefault.aspx

For the BRP 1" riser, are you changing out Part #10 on the schematic which is the steering clamp?

[bone crusher]

Dealer convinced me to have them install the 1" riser when I ordered my bike. After the install I was ok with the ride position buy not my 5'7" wife, so 2 months later I installed the ESI 3" risers. Now the wife is happy and much to my surprise I prefer it mostly because the bike is easier to corner! I wouldn't waste money on the 1", just go right to the 4".

I had the 1" riser and thought it was fine...it does make a difference...I did then proceed to get ESI's 3" riser and that really made a difference...I might rotate it a bit more toward my body, but anything you do to raise the bars is a plus in my book!

[BRPjunkie]

BRP PARTS CATOLOG:
http://epc.brp.com/login.aspx?ReturnUrl=%2fDefault.aspx

For the BRP 1" riser, are you changing out Part #10 on the schematic which is the steering clamp?

If you want the installation instructions, PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send them.

[NancysToy]

If you want the installation instructions, PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send them.
Don't forget that some instructions had the wrong torque values, and they busted the bolts.

[stgilmer]

Don't forget that some instructions had the wrong torque values, and they busted the bolts.


Scotty, do you happen to know which are the right ones, breaking a bolt isn't something I would like to do. But torquing it just right being it is your handles is important.

[Rando]

19-24 lbf-ft

[BRPjunkie]

19-24 lbf-ft

My instructions say that the hub screws should be torqued to 15-21 lbf-ft.

[BRPjunkie]

Scotty, do you happen to know which are the right ones, breaking a bolt isn't something I would like to do. But torquing it just right being it is your handles is important.

Shane,

Instructions sent to your personal e-mail. Good luck.

Mike

[NancysToy]

Scotty, do you happen to know which are the right ones, breaking a bolt isn't something I would like to do. But torquing it just right being it is your handles is important.
Per Service Bulletin 6-08:

NEW TORQUE~SPECIFICATION FOR M10 CENTER HUB NUT IS 26-32 N-M (19-24 LBF-FT)

1. Use a rubber mallet to insert riser block on steering column.

2. Do not use M10 nut to push riser block on steering column.

3. Do not use anti-seize and/or Loctite on steering column M10 stud.

4. When installation is complete, verify handlebar and wheel alignment and adjust if necessary. Refer to SECTION 08-01 STEERING ALIGNMENT in MY08 ROADSTER SHOP MANUAL.

Please always use latest instruction sheet shown on Bossweb when installing Riser Block Kit.

My error previously thinking the problem was the screws. It is the steering shaft stud that breaks! Use the lower torque value and instructions above, unless there are newer ones. The bolts themselves have a lower torque value yet.

[BRPjunkie]

Per Service Bulletin 6-08:

NEW TORQUE~SPECIFICATION FOR M10 CENTER HUB NUT IS 26-32 N-M (19-24 LBF-FT)

1. Use a rubber mallet to insert riser block on steering column.

2. Do not use M10 nut to push riser block on steering column.

3. Do not use anti-seize and/or Loctite on steering column M10 stud.

4. When installation is complete, verify handlebar and wheel alignment and adjust if necessary. Refer to SECTION 08-01 STEERING ALIGNMENT in MY08 ROADSTER SHOP MANUAL.

Please always use latest instruction sheet shown on Bossweb when installing Riser Block Kit.

My error previously thinking the problem was the screws. It is the steering shaft stud that breaks! Use the lower torque value and instructions above, unless there are newer ones. The bolts themselves have a lower torque value yet.

Good clarification. Question on torque value for the riser install is actually two values, one for the nut and one for the bolts. The original torque value for the M10 nut was 29 - 36 lbf-ft. I was lucky when I followed that and did not break the shaft since I was about 10 lbs heavy based on the bulletin value of 19 - 24 lbf-ft. The M8 hub screws are 15 - 21 lbf-ft.