Need a Locksmith...

[MarkLawson]

I rode to work this morning wearing all my Gerbings because it was sooo cold - something like 28 degrees. After arriving to work (45 min ride) I was taking all my heated gear to lock in the trunk of my RT. I opened the trunk, dumped all the heated stuff into it, closed & locked the trunk. When I pull the key out of the lock, the lock cylinder came out with the key.

Hmmm :sour:

I pushed it back in almost all the way & pulled the key out. The lock cylinder stayed in the hole, although not fully seated. It can slide out, although not all the way out.

Hmmm :sour:

Now I have the key in my pocket & a trunk that is locked & cannot be unlocked. Anyone know anything about these locks that can help?

Thanks

[Lamonster]

Is this the RT or RS? If the RS you can pull off the left panel were you check your oil and reach in and pull on the trunk cable. May be able to do that on the RT too but I'm not sure. :dontknow:

[lawrenc454]

My experience installing BMW locks was that the key had to be in the lock to insert and get it to lock in the cylinder. If you put it in without the key in the tumblers it may not have fully seated. Since all of the RTs have an extra lock with them for the trailer the dealer might be able to tell you how to ensure it is installed correctly using the one with their demo unit. Otherwise BRP tech support should be able to help you since this is an emergency and a potential warranty situation.

Good luck. Lonnie

[Lamonster]

:agree:
Either way it is a dealer repair. I was just trying to help you get to your gear.

[M2Wild]

When I pull the key out of the lock, the lock cylinder came out with the key.

Eeeeek .... :yikes: I'd be bumming big time if that were to happen to me.

[MarkLawson]

Is this the RT or RS? If the RS you can pull off the left panel were you check your oil and reach in and pull on the trunk cable. May be able to do that on the RT too but I'm not sure. :dontknow:


Sorry, I missed that small detail (It's the Goldwing in me...). It's the RT & I am referring to the rear trunk lock that locks the rear trunk & saddlebags.

By the way, It's now after 1:00 PM & is 55 degrees, so I should be fine getting it to the dealer soon.

Thanks

[Gil189]

I experienced the same problem the second day after taking delivery. My dealer spoke to Can Am and they told him this problem was found on many units built before #400.
The defective barrel must be drilled-out and a new one inserted but it must be pressed in firmly in order for the tumblers to snap in the proper position. The only draw-back is that the ignition key barrel must also be replaced for the keys to be common and when the ignition key is replaced, the new key must be matched to the on-board computer.
My dealer did the above under warranty and I've had no further problems.

[NancysToy]

I experienced the same problem the second day after taking delivery. My dealer spoke to Can Am and they told him this problem was found on many units built before #400.
The defective barrel must be drilled-out and a new one inserted but it must be pressed in firmly in order for the tumblers to snap in the proper position. The only draw-back is that the ignition key barrel must also be replaced for the keys to be common and when the ignition key is replaced, the new key must be matched to the on-board computer.
My dealer did the above under warranty and I've had no further problems.
Be sure they also provide a matching tumbler for the trailer lock. RTs come with three lock tumblers and two keys.

[MarkLawson]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=613&pictureid=7298

Lock would come almost all the way out, but not quite. Nor would it go fully in. The lock was in an unlocked state while the trunk was in a locked state. the piece on the end of the lock was out of sync with the trunk, so it would slide in the final 1/4", or so.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=613&pictureid=7299

Lock still on the drill bit after destructive removal. There was no damage to the lock housing in the trunk. (oh, yea!) :yes:

I was invisioning the drill skipping accross the trunk lid as it slipped :yikes:

The dealer called BRP &, like Gil mentioned above, they acknowledged that there were other reports of this issue & recommended the dealer drill it out. They did a great job & then slipped the spare (trailer) lock in as a replacement. Seems to be working properly now. A new set (trunk, trailer & ignition) will be sent for replacement.

[NancysToy]

Lock would come almost all the way out, but not quite. Nor would it go fully in. The lock was in an unlocked state while the trunk was in a locked state. the piece on the end of the lock was out of sync with the trunk, so it would slide in the final 1/4", or so.

Lock still on the drill bit after destructive removal. There was no damage to the lock housing in the trunk. (oh, yea!) :yes:
I was invisioning the drill skipping accross the trunk lid as it slipped :yikes:

The dealer called BRP &, like Gil mentioned above, they acknowledged that there were other reports of this issue & recommended the dealer drill it out. They did a great job & then slipped the spare (trailer) lock in as a replacement. Seems to be working properly now. A new set (trunk, trailer & ignition) will be sent for replacement.
Sounds like it is a good idea for those of us with low numbers to toss our extra cylinder in the front trunk, for the time being. Glad you got it worked out, for now.