Lamonster swaybar link squeaking - what stops it?

[Dave7691]

Hi, wondering if anyone has had the links squeaking on bumps and if so, did you spray anything on them to stop it? The link on the right side is squeaking on bumps. I rechecked the bolts and they are within spec's.

[hypurone]

Pretty much anything will work. the trick is finding something that will "last" and NOT attract dirt etc. Luckily back when I had an issue with their original set I had some BoeShield T9 (aircraft lube) that I used. This stuff is amazing if you can find it! I have since had to replace the links as they had rusted beyond what I considered usable.... Which should NOT happen to anything of quality... Hope the new ones do better...

[troop]

Try a silicone based lubricant as they don't collect dust. Tri Flow is really good stuff...

[PMK]

Pretty much anything will work. the trick is finding something that will "last" and NOT attract dirt etc. Luckily back when I had an issue with their original set I had some BoeShield T9 (aircraft lube) that I used. This stuff is amazing if you can find it! I have since had to replace the links as they had rusted beyond what I considered usable.... Which should NOT happen to anything of quality... Hope the new ones do better...

A simple FWIW
Regarding
Boeshield T9, we use that for corrosion protection,

Regarding
BoeLube, that is a type of cutting wax for drilling/machining.

[CloverHillCrawler]

For items that I want lubed and don't want dirt attracted to it. I pretty much stick with 3 in 1 dry lock lube. Works great on cables and locks.

It should work with those links pretty good.

https://mobileimages.lowes.com/productimages/7cc8df5c-1606-457f-82c8-cca8b4a61403/04367350.jpg?size=pdhism

[hypurone]

A simple FWIW
Regarding
Boeshield T9, we use that for corrosion protection,

Regarding
BoeLube, that is a type of cutting wax for drilling/machining.

The bottle clearly states for waterproof lubrication AND protection. Maybe it has changed in recent times? I have had this for years... I have used this as a lube on tons of things around the house & in the garage and it works as stated. Door hinges & locks work like new for way longer than any other lube I have tried, and it doesn't stink to high heaven like the others....

[Bfromla]

Are you sure it’s the link making noise ?:dontknow: Can you reproduce it without driving over a bump? :popcorn:

[WRCLVR]

Worst case, get some covers for the ball ends... IIRC, you can get them from Pegasus racing (for heim joint ends) & also maybe McMaster Carr has them and they deliver!!!

[Snoking1127]

Are you sure it is not the hard plastic/Nylon(?) piece that the sway bar is mounted onto the frame of the trike with?

[PMK]

The bottle clearly states for waterproof lubrication AND protection. Maybe it has changed in recent times? I have had this for years... I have used this as a lube on tons of things around the house & in the garage and it works as stated. Door hinges & locks work like new for way longer than any other lube I have tried, and it doesn't stink to high heaven like the others....

Was simply sharing information based from experience using the product as the manufacturer intended of Corrosion Protection and Control.
The aerospace industry, which Boeshield T9 was produced for has many similar products.

As you can read in the products history from the maker, there is a focus of the discussion towards corrosion protection displacing moisture, followed by the wax like film that forms as it “sets”.

Yes, most all of these type corrosion prevention compounds that we use in aviation have incredible ability to penetrate even extremely tight joints. The penetrating ability with time, reaches the base material, while raising and displacing moisture, then forming a waxy film, sealing the area from further water intrusion.

The lubricating aspect ironically is a secondary function, and not a primary reason to use it.

Other similar products are Cor-Ban items of various part numbers, Corrosion X Aviation type, LPS 3, Ardrox AV30 and more.

All of those function in a similar way to penetrate, displace moisture, then seal the area from further water intrusion.

Regrading the swaybar links specifically, if you have the machined aluminum type, with pressed in spherical bearings, there have been reports by a couple of independent Spyder repair techs that these type bearings can get noisy, and often develop freeplay / wear, requiring replacement. Longer you can keep them lubricated and quiet, the longer they will last.

Seeing your topic / posts, as time permits, even though our 10 year old BajaRon machined aluminum links have remained quiet and corrosion free with no wear, I should remove them and verify if they are the metal against metal type, or maybe back then we were supplied “lined” spherical bearings that have a self lubricating surface between the spherical ball and outer race.
If ours are metal against metal, I should remove them and grease them with the pressure lube adapters.

https://boeshield.com/about/

https://boeshield.com/boeshield-t9-technical-data/

[BajaRon]

Are you sure it is not the hard plastic/Nylon(?) piece that the sway bar is mounted onto the frame of the trike with?

The Delrin sway bar bushings are self lubricating. You never need to put anything on them. They do not wear or wear out (unless you lubricate them and attract dirt which then acts as sandpaper). If the bushings are loose, they will clunk on turns. Like a wooden shoe on a wooden floor. But they will never squeak.


Was simply sharing information based from experience using the product as the manufacturer intended of Corrosion Protection and Control.
The aerospace industry, which Boeshield T9 was produced for has many similar products.

As you can read in the products history from the maker, there is a focus of the discussion towards corrosion protection displacing moisture, followed by the wax like film that forms as it “sets”.

Yes, most all of these type corrosion prevention compounds that we use in aviation have incredible ability to penetrate even extremely tight joints. The penetrating ability with time, reaches the base material, while raising and displacing moisture, then forming a waxy film, sealing the area from further water intrusion.

The lubricating aspect ironically is a secondary function, and not a primary reason to use it.

Other similar products are Cor-Ban items of various part numbers, Corrosion X Aviation type, LPS 3, Ardrox AV30 and more.

All of those function in a similar way to penetrate, displace moisture, then seal the area from further water intrusion.

Regrading the swaybar links specifically, if you have the machined aluminum type, with pressed in spherical bearings, there have been reports by a couple of independent Spyder repair techs that these type bearings can get noisy, and often develop freeplay / wear, requiring replacement. Longer you can keep them lubricated and quiet, the longer they will last.

Seeing your topic / posts, as time permits, even though our 10 year old BajaRon machined aluminum links have remained quiet and corrosion free with no wear, I should remove them and verify if they are the metal against metal type, or maybe back then we were supplied “lined” spherical bearings that have a self lubricating surface between the spherical ball and outer race.
If ours are metal against metal, I should remove them and grease them with the pressure lube adapters.

https://boeshield.com/about/

https://boeshield.com/boeshield-t9-technical-data/

If your end links are 10 years old. They are probably the previous Dog Bone design. We finally abandoned them because we could not find a viable way to keep them from rusting over time. They were a steel on steel design which the manufacturer guaranteed would not wear or rust. But we have replaced many with the new design, which have had zero issues in the 6 years we've been making them. They are a hardened chrome with a self lubricating nylon compound race. Lubricating these will actually degrade the system.

[PMK]

The Delrin sway bar bushings are self lubricating. You never need to put anything on them. They do not wear or wear out (unless you lubricate them and attract dirt which then acts as sandpaper). If the bushings are loose, they will clunk on turns. Like a wooden shoe on a wooden floor. But they will never squeak.

If your end links are 10 years old. They are probably the previous Dog Bone design. We finally abandoned them because we could not find a viable way to keep them from rusting over time. They were a steel on steel design which the manufacturer guaranteed would not wear or rust. But we have replaced many with the new design, which have had zero issues in the 6 years we've been making them. They are a hardened chrome with a self lubricating nylon compound race. Lubricating these will actually degrade the system.

Agreed, lubricating spherical bearings with a liner can be detrimental.
Ironically, some version of DU bearings or lined spherical bearings, if lubricated with a lithium based lube / grease, will see the teflon lead be damaged and wears away quickly.

As for our dog bone style links, so far, they have been quiet and when checked, showed no corrosion issues. Time will tell, but yes, my guess is that swaybar and the links are about ten years old. Thinking it was purchased around June of 2014.

As I mentioned earlier, as time permits, I may remove the links. Inspect as needed. Then using my greasing adapter set, for relubing ball bearings, rod ends, spherical bearings and more, pressure lube the spherical bearings with grease.
The greasing adapters are not a common tool, simply something I bought years ago for aircraft work.

At a guess, this will add 30 minutes to the upcoming oil change.

If the spherical bearings are trashed due to corrosion, probably just replace them with lined spherical bearings.

[Dave7691]

Yes it is the link if you grab it and twist it side to side it will squeak .

[PMK]

Yes it is the link if you grab it and twist it side to side it will squeak .

Lube it up and let it rip.