2012 Spyder RS won't run, dash doesn't light up - any ideas?

[Chasdog]

I just bought a 2012 Can am Spyder RS. I got it knowing it wouldn’t run. I did some work on it today. Fuses were all good in the front. Lights come on the bike but the instrument panel doesn’t light up. I’m thinking I’ll have to take it to the dealer for diagnostic review but was just wondering if anyone has an idea to try before I take it to the dealer. Turning the key to start it makes a little moaning sound but engine doesn’t turn over. Any thoughts?

[Peter Aawen]

First thing to check is the battery! :lecturef_smilie:

What you describe above are classic indications of a dead or dying battery on these power-hungry machines!! :sour:

If your battery doesn't show more than 12 volts on a multi-meter at any time while trying to start the engine, then it's probably not up to the task, and one of the early indications of this is that the dash won't light up.... :rolleyes: If you can give it a good 8-12 hour charge on a proper battery charger/maintainer (& NOT just on a tender - there's usually not a high enough charge rate from them to be sure!) it might come good for a while; but if your Spyder battery is ever that low that it can't hold 12 volts during starting, then it's pretty much time for a replacement, if not immediately (cos the charge thing didn't help... :p ) then soon, regardless of if the charge thing works for now! :banghead:

[Chasdog]

Thanks Peter. I bought a new battery that I will try tomorrow from Napa. I’m hoping it’s that simple.

[Isopedella]

Good idea to fully charge the battery before the install.
Not a trickle charger
But an "intelligent" charger that drops to maintenance mode when fully charged.

[Peter Aawen]

Thanks Peter. I bought a new battery that I will try tomorrow from Napa. I’m hoping it’s that simple.

It may be 'new', but unless you know for sure that it's already been done, it's still worthwhile to properly charge that 'new' battery for 8-12 hours on a smart charger BEFORE installing it - they usually only come with a light charge, and if you want them to last as long as possible, it'll need a full charge before its first use! :thumbup:

Good Luck! :cheers:

[Chasdog]

Well the old battery failed to fully charge. Installed a new one and it started. Thanks guys for the posts. I thought it was more than a battery problem after listening to the previous owner. So I was excited to see it run. According to Napa it was fully charged but I think that is good advice to further charge it.

[Motorcycledave]

I just bought a 2012 Can am Spyder RS. I got it knowing it wouldn’t run. I did some work on it today. Fuses were all good in the front. Lights come on the bike but the instrument panel doesn’t light up. I’m thinking I’ll have to take it to the dealer for diagnostic review but was just wondering if anyone has an idea to try before I take it to the dealer. Turning the key to start it makes a little moaning sound but engine doesn’t turn over. Any thoughts?

OLD BATTERY or Dead or low charge battery, loose cables

[Bfromla]

Well the old battery failed to fully charge. Installed a new one and it started. Thanks guys for the posts. I thought it was more than a battery problem after listening to the previous owner. So I was excited to see it run. According to Napa it was fully charged but I think that is good advice to further charge it.:congrats::thumbup: good luck with the rest. Now can edit/add signature & garage info:popcorn:

[Quickdraw]

OLD BATTERY or Dead or low charge battery, loose cables

Loose cables has bitten me a few times when I had my Honda Shadow. I would tighten up the bolts when I installed the battery, but no matter what, it wouldn't start so I had to recheck the tightness, and sure enough, they were loose even after I initially tighted them. It was the strangest thing. Never failed though. Had to do that every year because at that time, I did not have a battery tender so I removed it in the fall.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Well the old battery failed to fully charge. Installed a new one and it started. Thanks guys for the posts. I thought it was more than a battery problem after listening to the previous owner. So I was excited to see it run. According to Napa it was fully charged but I think that is good advice to further charge it.

A nearly dead battery can readily show full charge. It's just that a full charge on a near dead battery represents only a small portion of the stored energy of a good battery.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Loose cables has bitten me a few times when I had my Honda Shadow. I would tighten up the bolts when I installed the battery, but no matter what, it wouldn't start so I had to recheck the tightness, and sure enough, they were loose even after I initially tighted them. It was the strangest thing. Never failed though. Had to do that every year because at that time, I did not have a battery tender so I removed it in the fall.

STAR..... washers are your friend.... I've been recommending them since 2012 +/- ..... Mike :thumbup:

[Mikey]

:agree: And make sure your hold down strap is good and tight!!!

[Chasdog]

So the battery issue is solved but the display doesn’t work. I took it for a very short ride and none of the gauges work. No mileage shown and the Speedo and tach don’t work either. The shifter also will not shift and it’s stuck in gear.
I have checked all the fuses in both locations and all appears well. I have made an appointment at the dealer to have it diagnosed but not until mid May. I had most of the panels off and didn’t see any broken wires etc. So I’m open to suggestions.

[Peter Aawen]

Have you checked the plugs and wiring going into the back of the dash module?? :dontknow:

A few here have reported issues with the plugs either vibrating loose over time, or there being a few pins in the plug/connector that were either bent or recessed so that they only made contact when everything was exactly correct & firmly plugged in. :shocked: Most have resolved those issues simply by un-screwing the dash retaining screws; leaning the top of the dash module toward the rider/rear of the bike; then unplugging the dash/loom connectors; inspecting them carefully; rectifying any bent/misaligned pins; and securely re-plugging the connector/s into the back of the dash module. ;) It sounds like at least having a look may be in order?! :thumbup:

Good Luck! :cheers:

[Isopedella]

I just bought a 2012 Can am Spyder RS. I got it knowing it wouldn’t run. ..... Any thoughts?

Did you get a chance to ask anyone why they thought it wouldn't run?

Big difference say between I parked it and now it wont go........

and it was running fine ,and then it just quit for instance.

Edit.
I just reviewed the thread and found you wrote in post #6

I thought it was more than a battery problem after listening to the previous owner.

What did he say?

Helps heaps if you give all available info when asking questions from the onset.

In the meantime I would ensure that battery is maintained on a charger as I guess you have been cranking it some. And check the plugs on the rear of the dash as it may have be detached somewhat.

Here is some info on dash removal that may help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMGVQ1UY534

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlzLAFT_EcA

[sledge]

I just bought a 2012 Can am Spyder RS. I got it knowing it wouldn’t run. I did some work on it today. Fuses were all good in the front. Lights come on the bike but the instrument panel doesn’t light up. I’m thinking I’ll have to take it to the dealer for diagnostic review but was just wondering if anyone has an idea to try before I take it to the dealer. Turning the key to start it makes a little moaning sound but engine doesn’t turn over. Any thoughts?

couple months ago , I took my Spyder on a 40 or 50 mile ride started fine that morning , stopped a couple times for a drink or bathroom stop. then I stopped at a Music store for some strings, walked out....... turned over just a little and dash went black ... I am a retired Mechanic so my thought was dead cell in the Battery . anyway, I called AAA they came pick me and Spyder up took us home , I bought a new $150 battery , that wasn't it... it was the Battery Ground Cable where it was bolted to the Frame under the seat , about 12" from the Ground post on the Battery ... might be a good thing to check. . . just a thought

[Chasdog]

The previous owner had said that one day it just wouldn’t start. He was not very mechanically inclined. He said it was a 3 cylinder engine when it is in fact a v- twin. So there was not much help in what the problem may be.

[Isopedella]

The previous owner had said that He was not very mechanically inclined. He said it was a 3 cylinder engine when it is in fact a v- twin. So there was not much help in what the problem may be.

Himm.. OK

So what made you think it was more than a battery problem

after listening to the previous owner, when he said one day it just wouldn’t start? :dontknow: Cant figure that at all.

Must have said more than your letting on for you to think it was more than a simple tired old battery.



Did you manage to check the connector on the rear of the dash?

[Chasdog]

I tried pulling the front screen off yesterday. According to the manual there are a couple spots to insert a screwdriver and pry it off on the top of screen. The way the top where the safety card resides hangs over the screen and nowhere to insert a screwdriver.
I pried it from the side and was afraid I would break the plastic, so I backed off.
The reason I figured it was more than a battery problem was the previous owner had been looking for someone to take it to the dealer to get it fixed for about 2 years.

[Isopedella]

My screen surround didn't want to detach along the bottom.

Lamonster just pulls on it in a video with his fingers.....Pops right off. Smartypants. :D

Turned out some steel clips were sticking along the bottom on my F3.
Sorry no photo.

I pry with some plastic levers.

202308

I inserted 2 of the L shaped ones between the screen and the surround.
Left them under a little tension while I decided how to proceed.

It popped off while I was deciding what next. :yes:

I removed, cleaned and lubed those steel clips and the plastic ones before reinstalling.

[Chasdog]

Update on the 2012 Spyder roadster. Shop called with the diagnosis. It goes as follows the main relay #2 was in the wrong place which after moving it , allowed the front screen to come on and the paddle shifter to operate. So a rather simple solution. Mileage was 4597.
So thanks to all contributors to this thread. I appreciate all the support.
So I’m going to have them change the oil and put it up for sale. Thanks again guys.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Update on the 2012 Spyder roadster. Shop called with the diagnosis. It goes as follows the main relay #2 was in the wrong place which after moving it , allowed the front screen to come on and the paddle shifter to operate. So a rather simple solution. Mileage was 4597.
So thanks to all contributors to this thread. I appreciate all the support.
So I’m going to have them change the oil and put it up for sale. Thanks again guys.

Interesting ..... but - how did that Relay get in the wrong place, they don't move by themselves ...... Mike :thumbup:

[Isopedella]

Ta for reporting back on this. :clap:

Whodathunk it.

Kudos to the Tech that identified the problem. Great to hear a positive result from dealers workshop.

So why are you putting it up for sale?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Update on the 2012 Spyder roadster. Shop called with the diagnosis. It goes as follows the main relay #2 was in the wrong place which after moving it , allowed the front screen to come on and the paddle shifter to operate. So a rather simple solution. Mileage was 4597.
So thanks to all contributors to this thread. I appreciate all the support.
So I’m going to have them change the oil and put it up for sale. Thanks again guys.
I think they fed you a line of bull. I just looked at the wiring diagram for my 2014 which should be pretty much identical to the 2012 diagram. The only relays that are feeding the cluster is the Hi headlight relay to light the Hi beam indicator, the load shedding relay, and the suspension relay. I don't see how any of them could cause the cluster to not turn on unless the contacts were welded together or burned so they were not conducting. In this case the incorrect state of the relay when you turned on the power may have mucked up the cluster. All three of those relays are the same so there is no way one could have been in the wrong place.

I think one of the relays was bad and when the tech swapped the relays he unknowingly caused the relay to start working correctly. Or maybe he replaced the relay with a used one and didn't want to admit to that. Or worse yet, he jiggled wires and had no idea what actually caused things to work again, and so he made up a story to cover his behind and make you think he was a semi-genius.

To be on the safe side I would buy three new relays to replace the ones that feed into the cluster. That will give you confidence the buyer won't encounter the same problem shortly after buying it, and you can sleep better!

In any case, the cluster is lighting up and all is well, that is unless a relay starts acting up again, or a loose wire connection rears its head again.

[Chasdog]

Interesting ..... but - how did that Relay get in the wrong place, they don't move by themselves ...... Mike :thumbup:

I suspect the past owner moved the relay.

[Chasdog]

Ta for reporting back on this. :clap:

Whodathunk it.

Kudos to the Tech that identified the problem. Great to hear a positive result from dealers workshop.

So why are you putting it up for sale?
I have a newer spyder and don’t really need 2 of them.

[Chasdog]

I think they fed you a line of bull. I just looked at the wiring diagram for my 2014 which should be pretty much identical to the 2012 diagram. The only relays that are feeding the cluster is the Hi headlight relay to light the Hi beam indicator, the load shedding relay, and the suspension relay. I don't see how any of them could cause the cluster to not turn on unless the contacts were welded together or burned so they were not conducting. In this case the incorrect state of the relay when you turned on the power may have mucked up the cluster. All three of those relays are the same so there is no way one could have been in the wrong place.

I think one of the relays was bad and when the tech swapped the relays he unknowingly caused the relay to start working correctly. Or maybe he replaced the relay with a used one and didn't want to admit to that. Or worse yet, he jiggled wires and had no idea what actually caused things to work again, and so he made up a story to cover his behind and make you think he was a semi-genius.

To be on the safe side I would buy three new relays to replace the ones that feed into the cluster. That will give you confidence the buyer won't encounter the same problem shortly after buying it, and you can sleep better!

In any case, the cluster is lighting up and all is well, that is unless a relay starts acting up again, or a loose wire connection rears its head again.
Thanks for the post. You may be right on your assumption. I’m just glad the thing works.

[Chasdog]

I rode it home today from the dealership and it ran great. I see why folks like the vtwin roadster. A very fun bike.

[Chasdog]

Well I sold the roadster yesterday, so that concludes my project. Traded in the 2019 can am spyder rt for a new 2023 Spyder RT Limited. A red and black one.
The new one will be much easier to do oil changes and service and it seems a bit more comfortable than the 2019.