2019 RTL won't shift up (fixed'ish - only now it's un-fixed again!)

[ClayJ]

2 times now, I've been riding and suddenly find that pushing the "shift up" paddle, doesn't actually shift up. I didn't see anything flash on the screen, didn't hear funny engine or drive train noises. I just can't upshift.

Each time, I've tried wiggling, thumping, or other things to feel for or fix a stuck switch, but nothing.

Each time, a short shutoff of the bike (all the way to park light off), then back on, didn't fix the problem. Couldn't shift out of neutral to 1st gear sitting at a stop. Could shift to reverse, then back into neutral.

Each time, a long 5+ minute shutoff of the bike fixed the problem and I was going again.

Each time, I'd been riding for only about 15 minutes when it occurred.

Each time, I was using the heated grips on low.


I didn't know how to pull codes either time, so I don't know if there was a computer error. I've been unable to reproduce the problem since then, but I've only ridden for 30 minutes since It's getting cold.

I've heard that the CANBus will get finicky if you mod your bike poorly. I have pretty minimal mods:

1. rear brake flashers
2. engine powered relay to pass battery power to a few accessories

Recently had to replace the battery with a Batteries Plus version.
Recently had the sprocket recall repaired (Bike sat at the shop for 3 months, thus the dead battery).

[Peter Aawen]

You haven't just been caught out by the revs being too low have you?? :dontknow:

If you don't have high enough revs for your given road speed in the next gear up, the trans computer & the ECU will gang up on you and won't allow the shift.... :sour: Mind you, this is actually a good thing, cos it's protecting your Spyder from the engine lugging & potentially damaging something, & it's protecting the clutch too!! :lecturef_smilie:

So maybe, if this ever happens again, you should try pushing the revs a bit higher & getting the road speed up a bit faster before having another go at making the upshift.... I know that for many, their first instinct on missing an upshift is to drop the revs & slow down a bit before trying again, but in these days of modern computer managed engines & transmissions, that's often the exact opposite of what you really need to do! :thumbup:

There again, there's also been a growing number of 2018/19+ Spyders developing a LH Control Module failure, requiring the replacement the entire LH Grip & Switch/Control module, with similar 'can't shift out of neutral into 1st except via reverse' symptoms, and some of those have taken a fair while to diagnose & longer to actually get the Hand Grip! :banghead:

I hope yours isn't one of those, so try giving that rev harder/ride a bit faster before trying the upshift a go - with any luck, that'll sort it! :thumbup:

Good Luck! :cheers:

[ARtraveler]

Profile says 2019 RT. 1330 engine.

Recommended shift revs are 3500 for "normal" shifting. Higher is okay....lower????

[BertRemington]

ClayJ -- my Spyder will often illuminate the Engine indicator when I use the heated grips. The PO repaired (badly) the left-side wire and the right-side wire was slightly pinched. So try running without heated grips and see if the problem recurs.

Did you make your mods before or after the battery was replaced?

[Mikey]

The guys above all have good ideas, and I know you have a new battery, but did you use star washers on the cables when you hooked them up, and just for kicks I would skip down to my auto parts place and have them load test it, just to eliminate any gremlins that may pop up! Just A thought!:dontknow:

[ClayJ]

No star washers. I'll double check whether it's tight.

Mods were made 2 years ago when I bought the bike.

I'm pretty sure nothing is wrong with the physical switch because I can switch into and out of reverse (both directions work), but I can't shift from neutral to 1st. So it's got to be a logical problem, not a physical one.

[pegasus1300]

Sounds to me like the early stages of left switch cluster failure. Your dealer should be able to diagnose that when you go in for the 3000 mile service.

[cjr00]

I agree with pegasus 1300. My 2018 F3L was doing the same thing. Went back to the dealer and they are replacing the lefthand multifunction switch.

[Bfromla]

Ya wouldn’t be surprised some of failure from '18 LH controls seeped over in to the '19's! :gaah:

[cjr00]

FYI... Drove the bike home yesterday after the left hand multi switch replacement, ( 1 hour ride ). Shifted fine. Now if the sun would come out I can get back to learning to ride this beast.

[ClayJ]

I agree with pegasus 1300. My 2018 F3L was doing the same thing. Went back to the dealer and they are replacing the lefthand multifunction switch.

When you say "doing the same thing" do you mean it would only shift down and wouldn't shift up, but turning the bike off for 5 minutes would fix the problem?

After 10+ more hours of riding, I finally had this happen again. Couldn't shift up at all, but after turning the bike off for 5 minutes, it works again.

[cjr00]

Yes, it wouldn't go past 1st gear, but would go into reverse then nothing. After a cool down period it would be fine until I stopped at a light. Then the same over again. Left hand muti switch replacement cured the problem.

[ClayJ]

I had this happen again yesterday just minutes after starting the bike. Again, couldn't shift up at all. Checked for fault codes and found none.

Shut down for 5 minutes then restarted and everything works fine.

[ClayJ]

My bike continues to do this. I've had it to the mechanic (Faye Meyer in Denver) and they said they couldn't make it happen, but didn't say how hard they tried. He also cleaned the left hand controls.

I have been unable to perceive any pattern to when it happens. It's about 1 in 5 rides on average, I'll get 5 minutes down the road and suddenly can't shift up. I've tried a lot of minor thumping or slow pressing. Usually, I turn around and just slow ride home in 1st. If I shift to reverse or neutral, I'm stuck, but if I stick to first with flashers on, I can nurse it home.

If I turn the bike off and wait a long time (like 30 minutes or next day), it always corrects, and I can shift again. If I only wait 1 or 5 minutes, it often works but not always.

It does it whether I use heated grips or not.

I'm a computer programmer, so to me it feels a lot like computer memory being held alive by a capacitor and I have to wait long enough for the cap to fully drain before the problem clears.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

My bike continues to do this. I've had it to the mechanic (Faye Meyer in Denver) and they said they couldn't make it happen, but didn't say how hard they tried. He also cleaned the left hand controls.

I have been unable to perceive any pattern to when it happens. It's about 1 in 5 rides on average, I'll get 5 minutes down the road and suddenly can't shift up. I've tried a lot of minor thumping or slow pressing. Usually, I turn around and just slow ride home in 1st. If I shift to reverse or neutral, I'm stuck, but if I stick to first with flashers on, I can nurse it home.

If I turn the bike off and wait a long time (like 30 minutes or next day), it always corrects, and I can shift again. If I only wait 1 or 5 minutes, it often works but not always.

It does it whether I use heated grips or not.

I'm a computer programmer, so to me it feels a lot like computer memory being held alive by a capacitor and I have to wait long enough for the cap to fully drain before the problem clears.

You're a computer programmer :thumbup: so I don't have to explain/convince you that it's almost impossible to remove/lose anything that goes thru a computer. ..... It appears the Tech didn't put it on BUDS ... He thinks .... GUESSING ... is the way to diagnose issues ..... Take it to someone else ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

[Piratezz]

Had the same problem. I took the whole left assembly apart, saw that the shifter was missing a little ball bearing where it swivels, the height of the contact points were compromised so the shift thumb did not push directly on the microswitches; I made a ball bearing fit, underneath, and it's worked flawlessly since.

If that little bearing is missing, that could be causing your issues. No warranty, but it worked for me.

[ClayJ]

It happened again, but I fixed it in a different way.

1. After 1/4 mile, the bike wouldn't shift up, so I limped the bike home;
2. I left the bike on, in neutral with parking brake on;
3. Every minute I tried to shift it into 1st;
4. After 7 minutes of trying, the bike shifted to 1st;
5. I pulled out and went for my ride with no further issues.

So I don't actually need to turn the bike off, I just need to wait until the bike will shift again.

[ClayJ]

I hate threads that end without any resolution, and since I've sort of fixed my problem, here's my post explaining what I found and what I've done about it.

I've been limping along for months with this problem occurring. Early in a ride, the bike will refuse to shift up and the only way I knew to fix it was to turn the bike off for 15 to 30 minutes, then restart and it would be fixed.

I took it to a dealer, and they couldn't make it happen. They disassembled and cleaned the controls and said to bring it back when I could reproduce the problem.

So the other morning I left on a ride. Just 3 minutes out I went up a small hill and suddenly the bike wouldn't shift. I was so close to home, and I decided to ride home in first, so I whipped around. Now the bike would shift. At the bottom of the hill, I u-turned again and started back up. Again, it wouldn't shift but on flipping around it would shift.

I started up hill again, but before shifting I let off the throttle completely, then shifted, and it worked.

I took the tupperware off and looked for any loose connections but didn't find any. I did unplug and re-plug what I could see.

For now, during the first 10 minutes of a ride, I decelerate before shifting and I haven't had the problem recur. It's probably not great for the bike, but at least I'm learning to trust the bike again.

[RTWolfie]

Well this sort of sounds like what's happening to me and my 2019 RT Limited with 26,000 kms. A few times in the last year my bike would simply refuse to shift up, usually from 3rd. I'd hit the paddle a few times, slow down and then speed up and it would magically fix itself. In early Dec I was out for a ride and she wouldn't shift from 4th to 5th. I dropped down to 3rd and it wouldn't go back into 4th. Then it fixed itself again. Got up to the next stoplight and when I was pulling away she wouldn't go out of 1st. I pulled over, shut her off and tried a few times to get her in 1st but no go. I was thinking about a tow truck and decided on one more try and she went into 1st. I then drove home and she went into every gear. Had it towed to the shop (an hour away) and when they got her they couldn't get her to go past 1st and she was throwing all sorts of codes. They replaced the shift switch to no avail. Then the mechanic, who has had similar issues with aftermarket tail lighting unplugged mine and everything started to work again. Test drove it, no codes all is fine. I picked it up, drive home and everything was great. Took her for another hour ride some days later and all is good. I went out for a ride today and got about 3km from home and again wouldn't shift up from 3rd. Stopped at the next light and then she won't shift out of 1st again. Pulled over. Turned her off and on a few times, won't shift into 1st. Finally got reverse, then it wouldn't do neutral again. Shut it off, the engine warning light came on and then went off. Waited 5 more minutes and started her up and she shifted normally all the way home. Having her towed back to the shop tomorrow, Thankfully I'm still under warranty. I need this fixed before my trip in June. Do you still have issues with yours?

[Mikey]

I hate threads that end without any resolution, and since I've sort of fixed my problem, here's my post explaining what I found and what I've done about it.

I've been limping along for months with this problem occurring. Early in a ride, the bike will refuse to shift up and the only way I knew to fix it was to turn the bike off for 15 to 30 minutes, then restart and it would be fixed.

I took it to a dealer, and they couldn't make it happen. They disassembled and cleaned the controls and said to bring it back when I could reproduce the problem.

So the other morning I left on a ride. Just 3 minutes out I went up a small hill and suddenly the bike wouldn't shift. I was so close to home, and I decided to ride home in first, so I whipped around. Now the bike would shift. At the bottom of the hill, I u-turned again and started back up. Again, it wouldn't shift but on flipping around it would shift.

I started up hill again, but before shifting I let off the throttle completely, then shifted, and it worked.

I took the tupperware off and looked for any loose connections but didn't find any. I did unplug and re-plug what I could see.

For now, during the first 10 minutes of a ride, I decelerate before shifting and I haven't had the problem recur. It's probably not great for the bike, but at least I'm learning to trust the bike again.

I would not trust a darn thing, it's still not right!!:dontknow: I wish I had a answer to your problem, but I don't, but I can tell you that your shifting sequence, isn't the fix for this issue.Good luck

[PW2013STL]

Interesting reading this thread today. Yesterday on our ride (4 Spiders) our ride leader pulled over to the side of the road as her RT would not shift. I didn't ask her what year her RT is, but it's in the 15-18 year range. I was able to get it into reverse, but not any forward gears. Was calling for a tow when someone else was able to get it into 1st.
She then took off for home, but she had to slow down for a turn and when the Spyder down shifted it would not upshift again. We could not get it to upshift, so we pushed it in to a clearing. She rode behind another rider, and we proceeded to her home 70 miles away. Her husband was unable to help, but the lady she rode behind said that she has a Spyder trailer at her place. That was another 30 miles away.
They headed to get that (and her boyfriend to help) and I headed back to her Spyder to wait for them. About 2 hours later they showed up and all 4 of us were able to get it up the ramp and into the enclosed trailer.
The dealer will look at it Wednesday. I think it's the paddle shifter, or gear position sensor.
I do find it interesting that it will go into reverse, but not forward.
Found out it's an 2018.

[BertRemington]

I agree with Pegasus -- most likely LHS failure.

If you're not on warranty I would attempt the Pirate fix.

The LHS signals are sent via CANBUS to the TCM, console, etc modules interested in them. The CANBUS is fairly robust but can be interfered with by electrical system changes including moving cable locations. The RHS cruise control can also be affected because it sends its signals via wires to the LHS who sends them on via CANBUS.

WRT to connectors, there have been instances (very few) where the connector pin locks didn't hold and the pin backed out enough to cause a intermittent disconnect. Very hard to detect. A visual inspection using a small LED light is best.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I believe the shifter switch is a silicone rubber bubble with a copper or brass metal film. When the switch is pressed a nubbin pushes down on the bubble and makes contact with another copper patch. At least that's the way the starter button is configured on my 2014 RT. What happens is the metal film deteriorates and breaks apart, leaving only a small portion of it active and able to complete the circuit. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?149835-Urgent!-Starter-button-acting-up-Update!&p=1641755&viewfull=1#post1641755

Because the shifter switch is a CanBus item on a printed circuit board I don't think there is any practical way to bypass it like I did on my starter switch. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?150357-Replacing-the-start-button-on-my-2014-RT-saved-me-500&highlight=starter+button

Since BRP doesn't sell component parts for things like the LHS module you have no choice but to replace the entire LHS module.

[RTWolfie]

I'll definitely post a resolution when they find one. Back to the hospital she goes! The OP's problem seems very close to mine, and since I'm under warranty (2019 bought new out of the crate in spring 2021 with 4 years warranty included) BRP is stuck fixing it. I've found other similar threads but no resolution posted. My problem doesn't happen all the time, just randomly with no apparent correlation to how I'm riding. I'll be out having fun, and she'll just refuse to shift up. I can shift down manually or she'll do it herself, but once in 1st I'm stuck there. I have a big trip planned this summer and I REALLY need to have confidence this won't get me stuck in the middle of nowhere.

206663

[RTWolfie]

Update: So I picked her up on Sat, rode and hour back from the shop and no shift issues. Shop said it was my brake flash modulators I got from TRIC LED that was causing my issues. While I was out yesterday it was fine for the 1st hour, then it was randomly refusing to shift up when I hit the paddle. Sometimes I would have to hit the paddle 3-4 times then it would begrudgingly shift. Got to a light and again it wouldn't shift above 1st. Pulled over shut it off, turned it back on and it wouldn't shift into 1st at all. A couple more tries, she went into first and I rode back home without an issue. But twice while trying it at the side of the road when I switched it on nothing came up on the screen, I just had the parking brake and neutral lights. Back to the shop she goes.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Update: So I picked her up on Sat, rode and hour back from the shop and no shift issues. Shop said it was my brake flash modulators I got from TRIC LED that was causing my issues. While I was out yesterday it was fine for the 1st hour, then it was randomly refusing to shift up when I hit the paddle. Sometimes I would have to hit the paddle 3-4 times then it would begrudgingly shift. Got to a light and again it wouldn't shift above 1st. Pulled over shut it off, turned it back on and it wouldn't shift into 1st at all. A couple more tries, she went into first and I rode back home without an issue. But twice while trying it at the side of the road when I switched it on nothing came up on the screen, I just had the parking brake and neutral lights. Back to the shop she goes.

Did the shop disconnect the brake flash modulator? That's one of the first things shops like to do, blame the problem on DIY electrical addons. I would say they don't know what they are talking about. There is no electrical tie-in between the shift circuit and the brake lights.

I really believe it's a deteriorated silicone switch bubble as I described above.

[EdMat]

Did the shop disconnect the brake flash modulator? That's one of the first things shops like to do, blame the problem on DIY electrical addons. I would say they don't know what they are talking about. There is no electrical tie-in between the shift circuit and the brake lights.

I really believe it's a deteriorated silicone switch bubble as I described above.

:agree:

[Mikey]

There have been a few of switch problems on here, and that would be where I would start. But on the other hand, these things have a finicky can bus system and if I had a whole lot of electrical farkels, I may also unhook anyone that I put on just before the issue started! Good luck, electrical gremlins suck!!!

[RTWolfie]

Did the shop disconnect the brake flash modulator? That's one of the first things shops like to do, blame the problem on DIY electrical addons. I would say they don't know what they are talking about. There is no electrical tie-in between the shift circuit and the brake lights.

I really believe it's a deteriorated silicone switch bubble as I described above.

Yes they replaced the entire left side cluster under warranty already trying to fix it part #710008164. Brake light modulators were disconnected before I left the shop on Saturday.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Yes they replaced the entire left side cluster under warranty already trying to fix it part #710008164. Brake light modulators were disconnected before I left the shop on Saturday.

That deepens the mystery. I didn't realize you already had the LH switch replaced. My next bet would be a broken or shorted wire or loose or wet connector somewhere in the harness. But then again the fact that several others have had this problem would tend to discount this possibility, except connectors getting wet. Everyone rides in the rain sometime! After that I would consider the replacement switch module is defective, or the transmission control module has a problem. Try to get the shop to replace the TCM and see what happens.

[Peter Aawen]

That deepens the mystery. I didn't realize you already had the LH switch replaced. My next bet would be a broken or shorted wire or loose or wet connector somewhere in the harness. But then again the fact that several others have had this problem would tend to discount this possibility, except connectors getting wet. Everyone rides in the rain sometime! After that I would consider the replacement switch module is defective, or the transmission control module has a problem. Try to get the shop to replace the TCM and see what happens.

Orrr, maybe they pinched a wire or two when they replaced the LH Cluster... or didn't plug it in properly?? :dontknow:

[WRCLVR]

All of this makes me want to use helmet flashers that are not connected to the bike in any way and never use anything connected to the bikes lighting circuit. If i do ever mod, then it will be a fused relay directly from the battery with a kill switch

[BamaJohn]

FYI... Drove the bike home yesterday after the left hand multi switch replacement, ( 1 hour ride ). Shifted fine. Now if the sun would come out I can get back to learning to ride this beast.

Glad to know it's resolved. You just saved about $400 plus labor getting it done under warranty....ask me how I know! :thumbup:

[RTWolfie]

Glad to know it's resolved. You just saved about $400 plus labor getting it done under warranty....ask me how I know! :thumbup:

Up here in Canada they are $829 before install, Glad to have warranty!
I just wished it fixed my issue. Towing back to my dealer is $460 and I've already used both of my auto club tows for the calendar year. BRP will only pony up $200 for a tow.

[ClayJ]

After my last post, I had about 6 months where the problem never occurred. I rode probably 5,000 miles in that time. Then last week I towed the bike down to Arizona (from Colorado) to get a few good rides in. On one of the rides, I pulled onto the highway and felt the dreaded dry shift. Pushed 3 or 4 times and it finally shifted. I did the entire 400 mile ride without any issues.

Later in the week it occurred again on a short ride, and it wouldn't come back. I shut the bike off, waited 15 minutes, and it started and shifted just fine, so I did my ride.

In all my problems, I have never been stranded by the bike. It's annoying to have to sit for 15 to 20 minutes, but the shift has always come back to life and let me complete the ride.

Reading through the other posts, I don't see anyone who's reported back after a long time indicating the problem was fixed. Of course, I'd have thought mine was fixed until it wasn't. I have not disconnected my brake light flasher. Maybe I'll try that.


Photo from my Arizona ride.

206905

[RTWolfie]

Sounds like what's happening to me. Turning it off and on a few times and it always works again. The shop doesn't seem to be able to get a grip on what's causing it as it's so random. Nice bike, always loved the orange ones!

[RTWolfie]

Well she's back in the shop again for round 3. I went to pick up a part at the dealership an hour away and about 2km short of the shop she wouldn't shift again. Pulled over and shut it off and then she wouldn't' go into neutral or 1st, all I could get is reverse. After being shut off for 10 minutes she finally went into 1st so I did the last 2k in first with my hazards on. When I pulled into the shop they pulled the codes and it was giving a U0128 code. So now they are looking at the parking brake and sensor. Glad I still have warranty, I'm not going to quit until this is fixed. I originally took it to the shop on Dec 8th.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Well she's back in the shop again for round 3. I went to pick up a part at the dealership an hour away and about 2km short of the shop she wouldn't shift again. Pulled over and shut it off and then she wouldn't' go into neutral or 1st, all I could get is reverse. After being shut off for 10 minutes she finally went into 1st so I did the last 2k in first with my hazards on. When I pulled into the shop they pulled the codes and it was giving a U0128 code. So now they are looking at the parking brake and sensor. Glad I still have warranty, I'm not going to quit until this is fixed. I originally took it to the shop on Dec 8th.

I see you list Monster EFI as a mod. Have you tried running with it not connected?

[AndysF3S]

How would you disconnect a reflash of the ECU without sending the ECM back unless you have the portable flashing unit?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

How would you disconnect a reflash of the ECU without sending the ECM back unless you have the portable flashing unit?

I realized my mistake after I posted the above. I had in mind one of those add-on devices, and then realized the Monster was a reflash, not an add-on.

[Snoking1127]

All of this makes me want to use helmet flashers that are not connected to the bike in any way and never use anything connected to the bikes lighting circuit. If i do ever mod, then it will be a fused relay directly from the battery with a kill switch

This brake light circuit is straight for 12V from the battery and the can bus is not involved. Step on the brake pedal with the key not even in the machine and the brake lights work.

Battery - fuse - brake switch - brake lights.

[Snoking1127]

Interesting reading this thread today. Yesterday on our ride (4 Spiders) our ride leader pulled over to the side of the road as her RT would not shift. I didn't ask her what year her RT is, but it's in the 15-18 year range. I was able to get it into reverse, but not any forward gears. Was calling for a tow when someone else was able to get it into 1st.
She then took off for home, but she had to slow down for a turn and when the Spyder down shifted it would not upshift again. We could not get it to upshift, so we pushed it in to a clearing. She rode behind another rider, and we proceeded to her home 70 miles away. Her husband was unable to help, but the lady she rode behind said that she has a Spyder trailer at her place. That was another 30 miles away.
They headed to get that (and her boyfriend to help) and I headed back to her Spyder to wait for them. About 2 hours later they showed up and all 4 of us were able to get it up the ramp and into the enclosed trailer.
The dealer will look at it Wednesday. I think it's the paddle shifter, or gear position sensor.
I do find it interesting that it will go into reverse, but not forward.
Found out it's an 2018.

I was involved with Brenda's shifting failure from the sidelines. My friend Jerry was on that ride and called me. I started doing research on replacing the LHC and found this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFoFIGbpcCI&t=6s

It is a really big job to do that left hand cluster replacement. Dealer jerked Brenda around on price and when I was straightened out it was around $1200. The plug on the end of the cable has to be unpinned (lots of wires) to route the cable down the steering column and then all those pins need to be reinserted in the plug. This is all buried deep inside the Spyder.

[RTWolfie]

I realized my mistake after I posted the above. I had in mind one of those add-on devices, and then realized the Monster was a reflash, not an add-on.
I have the handheld "Genius" programming unit as well, and I went back to stock for a week and it still happened. I told the dealer about it so they don't start chasing that route.

[ClayJ]

When I pulled into the shop they pulled the codes and it was giving a U0128 code. So now they are looking at the parking brake and sensor.

I really hope they figure something out. I really really hope it's something inexpensive to fix.

[RTWolfie]

I really hope they figure something out. I really really hope it's something inexpensive to fix.

Well she's been in the shop for another 2 weeks, that make 7 weeks in the shop since Dec 8th. They are still chasing the U0128 code and also the windscreen motor and sensor which BRP feels might be involved. Man I really miss my bike. I'm second guessing owing this thing but I can't even sell it like it is. I have faith in my shop but they are chasing an intermittent issue that occurs at random and then just goes away.

[ClayJ]

they are chasing an intermittent issue that occurs at random and then just goes away.

At least your mechanics are taking the issue seriously. My mechanic continues to insinuate that I'm an idiot and don't know how to push the shift-up button correctly. "Reproduce the issue and we'll fix it" they said. Otherwise they don't want to waste their time.

[Peter Aawen]

At least your mechanics are taking the issue seriously. My mechanic continues to insinuate that I'm an idiot and don't know how to push the shift-up button correctly. "Reproduce the issue and we'll fix it" they said. Otherwise they don't want to waste their time.

I'm pretty sure there's TSB's out there about your issue &/or the LH Control Module Failures; a bit of searching & reading should find everything that applies. Take copies of the TSB details to your dealer and ask them to deal with it &/or open a case with BRP... and if they don't, send an email direct to BRPCares (there's an email address here too, shoudn't take much of a search to find that) explaining your issue and the dealer's lack of interest in even looking into the TSB; and when you send it, add a CC copy to your local Better Business mob, or whatever it is you have over there. The BRPCares mob might take a bit of a while sometimes, but they generally get the wheels moving when nothing else works! Good Luck! :thumbup:

[RTWolfie]

At least your mechanics are taking the issue seriously. My mechanic continues to insinuate that I'm an idiot and don't know how to push the shift-up button correctly. "Reproduce the issue and we'll fix it" they said. Otherwise they don't want to waste their time.

I guess I'm lucky then as my shop doesn't question that it happens, it's happened to them as well. My shop loves me and considers me a brand ambassador. I'm also lucky I still have warranty. But I keep wondering if they'll ever find out the cause and what I'll do if they don't. Live with it? Too many computers in these machines!

[Mikey]

If I were dealing with this issue, I would have a hard time not making these issues someone else's! :gaah: I hate things that don't work as they should, and things these days are too complicated. People like gadgets that involve microchips and switches and all that junk that breaks and is hard to fix. Then you throw in a farkle or two, and all of that has to play well with the rest of the gang. Good Luck to all that are having this issue, I would lose my mind if I was you, and some lighting would strike!!:dontknow: :coffee:

[RTWolfie]

I'm pretty sure there's TSB's out there about your issue &/or the LH Control Module Failures; a bit of searching & reading should find everything that applies. Take copies of the TSB details to your dealer and ask them to deal with it &/or open a case with BRP... and if they don't, send an email direct to BRPCares (there's an email address here too, shouldn't take much of a search to find that) explaining your issue and the dealer's lack of interest in even looking into the TSB; and when you send it, add a CC copy to your local Better Business mob, or whatever it is you have over there. The BRPCares mob might take a bit of a while sometimes, but they generally get the wheels moving when nothing else works! Good Luck! :thumbup:

They have already replaced the LH switch cluster, unfortunately it didn't solve the issue. Neither has disconnecting all of my aftermarket tail lighting. My dealer is really good and I believe they are trying to solve the issue, but the fact is only shows up randomly is making it hard for them to nail down the cause. They have been in contact with BRP and have an active case going with them.

[Peter Aawen]

They have already replaced the LH switch cluster, unfortunately it didn't solve the issue. Neither has disconnecting all of my aftermarket tail lighting. My dealer is really good and I believe they are trying to solve the issue, but the fact is only shows up randomly is making it hard for them to nail down the cause. They have been in contact with BRP and have an active case going with them.

That response of mine that you quoted RTWolfie, was directed specifically at ClayJ's issues. ;)

Still, I reckon I've posted this about your issues before; but I can't help but think that whoever replaced your LH Switch Cluster didn't do the most careful of jobs, and they've either pinched or kinked/damaged some wires during that replacement cluster install, or they've failed to properly fix/connect a connector or two in there somewhere?! Altho considering the intermittent nature of your ongoing issues, maybe it's not just pinched wires or a loose connector being jostled by wiring movements as you ride... it might even be that one or more of the pins in a connector aren't fully/properly seated & so they are only loosely engaged & occasionally don't connect well enough? Has anyone ever pulled all the panels off and rechecked all the first lot of replacement work, &/or checked each of the connectors in the loom that might've been touched/moved?? :dontknow:

Or maybe you've just entirely lucked out and have managed to score a second faulty LH Cluster?! It's not beyond the realms of possibility - it certainly wouldn't be the first time or likely the last time either, that a 'supposedly good' replacement also failed!?! :banghead:

[RTWolfie]

Well Clay I think they finally fixed it. They replaced the Windshield Control Module and it's been 3 weeks with no recurrence. The last code they pulled was "U0128 - Lost Communication with Park Brake Control Module (PBCM)". It seems the Windshield Control Module was faulty and it's apparently on the same line as the Park Brake Control Module. The bike thought the parking brake was on, and so wouldn't allow me to do anything but shift down.

[ClayJ]

Thanks RTWolfie. Unfortunately that doesn't sound like a cheap solution.

I've only had one instance of failure to shift-up in the last 10 months and 5,000 miles, and it self corrected after 30 seconds. I'm hoping it's gone or become so infrequent that I just won't have to deal with it again. But it's good to know it's an option if it does come back.

[Mikey]

After my last post, I had about 6 months where the problem never occurred. I rode probably 5,000 miles in that time. Then last week I towed the bike down to Arizona (from Colorado) to get a few good rides in. On one of the rides, I pulled onto the highway and felt the dreaded dry shift. Pushed 3 or 4 times and it finally shifted. I did the entire 400 mile ride without any issues.

Later in the week it occurred again on a short ride, and it wouldn't come back. I shut the bike off, waited 15 minutes, and it started and shifted just fine, so I did my ride.

In all my problems, I have never been stranded by the bike. It's annoying to have to sit for 15 to 20 minutes, but the shift has always come back to life and let me complete the ride.

Reading through the other posts, I don't see anyone who's reported back after a long time indicating the problem was fixed. Of course, I'd have thought mine was fixed until it wasn't. I have not disconnected my brake light flasher. Maybe I'll try that.


Photo from my Arizona ride.

206905

Just a quick question, by any chance when this DRY SHIFT happens where you going into or shifting out of a shape curve, on ramp, ect? because if you were, it may be a case of your Nanny telling you to behave yourself! I think there's a setting in there that they can adjust to lessen that from happening!

[ClayJ]

No, there is no specific ride conditions associated with the problem (for me). The majority of the time this happens in the first 10 minutes of my ride, so low speeds, city streets. Often just shifting reverse to 1st after backing out of the garage. Only a few times have I had it happen hours into a ride.

Turning the bike off and waiting 15 minutes or more has always recovered the bike so I've never been stranded anywhere.