Tires.... discussing tread types & patterns.

[BajaRon]

I know. A very overworked subject. My hope is that by taking some of the confusion out of the equation. Everyone will have a better understanding of what they should be looking for and not have to rely on someone else's opinion.

The Spyder and Ryker machines are special animals in may ways. This is very true when talking about tires. I hope this is a help.

The following only applies if we have gotten past the ever present Car Tire vs. Motorcycle Tire discussion.

There are 4 basic tire tread designs.

Symmetric is just another way of saying 'The Same'. This tread pattern is the most common. This tread may be the same all the way across. Or, looking from the center of the tread, each half is a mirror image of the other.. This allows tire rotation in either direction and does not require dismount/remount if you move from one side of the vehicle to the other. These are NOT 'Directional'.
199683
Though these may not be ideal for the Spyder/Ryker. They will work on both the front and rear of these bikes and can be mounted to run in either direction.

Asymmetric is just another way of saying, 'Not The Same'. Where the tread pattern changes across the face of the tire. There are many reasons for this but one of the main ones is to give a stiffer construction to the outside of the tire (which takes the most abuse in turns) to increase cornering stability. This design also allows for tire rotation without dismount, remount as they are not 'Directional'. These can also be run in either direction. But they must be mounted so that the side designed to be on the outside is correctly oriented.
199684
Asymmetric tires can work well on the front of the Spyder/Ryker. But not on the rear. When mounted on a single rear wheel. The back of the bike will corner better in one direction than it will in the other. This is not a good idea for a Spyder/Ryker rear tire.

Directional or Unidirectional tread is designed to roll in only one direction. It will be a mirror image as looking from the center of the tread. Usually incorporating a distinct 'V' pattern. This design is engineered to enhance hydroplaning resistance by moving water away from the tire more efficiently than most other tread designs. These must be dismounted/remounted on the wheel if you want to rotate them to the other side of the vehicle. Like the Asymmetric tire. These must be mounted for correct orientation.
199685
Generally speaking. This design gives the best traction in wet and standing water situations. Though there are a few non-directional tires which will also give excellent wet traction.

Tires which are both Asymmetric and Directional generally will incorporate some form of the 'V' pattern above. But it is offset to one side of the tire tread. These are typically special application tires. I don't know of any that will fit the Spyder or Ryker stock wheels so I did not include a picture.

General 'Rules of Thumb'

Typically, you will trade improved traction (especially wet traction) for a higher mileage tire. A long lasting tire has to use a harder compound which will not grip the roadway as well.

I do not recommend 'Summer' tires in any format for the Spyder/Ryker. Unless you are only going to be riding when pavement is 70 degrees or above. Once the pavement begins to cool, (especially as these summer tires begin to wear) they tend to get slick. It is not so dramatic in a car because of the additional weight. With the relatively light Spyder (especially in the rear) the difference can be pretty dramatic.

If you ride when the pavement is 40 degrees or less, Summer Tires can be very slick, no matter how good or dry the pavement is. This tire compound is specifically designed to give extremely good traction with warm or hot pavement. They are a 1 trick pony. For most of us, we need a good 'All Season' tire.

At the very least. If you're running a 'Summer' tire. Be aware of these tendencies.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks Ron for that dissertation ...... However you left out the most important factor concerning Auto tires & Spyders/Rykers. .... Let me simplify it for the readers. From what my schooling & training (concerning tires) has taught me .... The single MOST important factor is ....PSI .... There are quality tires, mediocre tires, and then there are terrible tires - ie. Kenda tires, which have weakly constructed casings. Tires are basically TWO parts, the tread and the casing. The casing construction plays a large part in how the tread will wear.... If the Casing is weak - the tire will balloon at relatively low speeds. This is why the Kenda/Kanine's have Abnormal wear in the center of the tread.... PSI is not really a factor in this wear, only the Casing is a factor. As far as today's Auto tires goes (used for a Spyder/Ryker) ... the real difference between High end and Lower end tires isn't as much as one would think. The real difference might be 3%. .... And the tires cost isn't any guarantee of performance. To sum up ... Nobody has RACE quality tires on their Spyders or Rykers .... WHY - because they aren't available in our sizes .... Tread pattern has such a small effect - one would need very sophisticated equipment to separate one style from another ... What matters Most is the PSI you use in them (Auto tires)....... Good luck, ride safe - ride happy ..... Mike :thumbup:

[Peacekeeper6]

I know the tread patterns of both Continental DWS 06 and Michelin Cross Climate when I see them. The other tire, I have no clue.

Very informative and educational post, BR.

[Little Blue]

:chat:....First off Thank You, BajaRon.

The Tire information was right on.
I am sure many people will have a better idea
of what tire(s) to choose for their Spyder.

I have learned a lot more about tires on this Forum.
So again 'Thank You'.

Stay Healthy. ....:thumbup:

[Jetfixer]

This should be a sticky.

[CloverHillCrawler]

Ron with the directional tire you state...

"I do not recommend 'Summer' tires in any format for the Spyder/Ryker. Unless you are only going to be riding when pavement is 70 degrees or above. Once the pavement begins to cool, (especially as these summer tires begin to wear) they tend to get slick. If you ride when the pavement is 40 degrees or less, they can be very slick, no matter how good or dry the pavement is. This tire compound is specifically designed to give extremely good traction with warm or hot pavement. They are a 1 trick pony. For most of us, we need a good 'All Season' tire."

Does this mean I should be pulling off my Quatrac's for winter? I was under the impression that the Quatrac's were a good "all season" tire that performed well under hot and cold conditions and they have a directional V tread pattern.

[lvmyspyder]

Thanks Ron, always great information from you. Ron and Forum - I know there are a lot of tire discussions that go on, but it is one discussion point that matters. I see where some are running a 225 60 15, not a 215 60 15 tire, specifically the General Altimax RT43. I got the RT45 after much deliberation, research etc. I did get it in the 225 60 15 size after comparing it with the current current OEM Kenda, which IMHO is a terrible product, both front and rear. Fronts came off with less than 500 miles, such a waste, but definitely one of the must do things to make this machine behave as it should and can.

Knowing many favor the 215 width, for those of you who are running the 225 60 15 in that tire, are you noticing any fitment issue? From what I can see and measurements taken, that size will fit fine on my '18 Spyder RT. I would like your real world experience of running that 225 60 series and what your bike is. Much obliged...

[BajaRon]

Ron with the directional tire you state...

"I do not recommend 'Summer' tires in any format for the Spyder/Ryker. Unless you are only going to be riding when pavement is 70 degrees or above. Once the pavement begins to cool, (especially as these summer tires begin to wear) they tend to get slick. If you ride when the pavement is 40 degrees or less, they can be very slick, no matter how good or dry the pavement is. This tire compound is specifically designed to give extremely good traction with warm or hot pavement. They are a 1 trick pony. For most of us, we need a good 'All Season' tire."

Does this mean I should be pulling off my Quatrac's for winter? I was under the impression that the Quatrac's were a good "all season" tire that performed well under hot and cold conditions and they have a directional V tread pattern.

The Veredestein Quatrac is an 'All Season' tire. And one of the better choices for the Spyder/Ryker, in my opinion. You're good to go all year around with that tire. The Quatrac is also pretty good in light snow. Though I don't recommend riding any motorcycle in snow. But if you do, let us know how it goes! :thumbup:


Thanks Ron, always great information from you. Ron and Forum - I know there are a lot of tire discussions that go on, but it is one discussion point that matters. I see where some are running a 225 60 15, not a 215 60 15 tire, specifically the General Altimax RT43. I got the RT45 after much deliberation, research etc. I did get it in the 225 60 15 size after comparing it with the current current OEM Kenda, which IMHO is a terrible product, both front and rear. Fronts came off with less than 500 miles, such a waste, but definitely one of the must do things to make this machine behave as it should and can.

Knowing many favor the 215 width, for those of you who are running the 225 60 15 in that tire, are you noticing any fitment issue? From what I can see and measurements taken, that size will fit fine on my '18 Spyder RT. I would like your real world experience of running that 225 60 series and what your bike is. Much obliged...

The 215/60r15 is a little bit taller and a little bit narrower than OEM. Diameter is increased about 5.5%, width is reduced by 3/8". There are many reasons for going with a car tire. The main selling point of a car tire is the very low quality of the OEM Kenda. Getting a slighty larger diameter tire also works to make the speedometer more accurate.
199692

The 225/60r15 retains OEM tire width while increasing diameter by about 1-3/4" (A bit over 7%). Some don't want that much change. I do not have any personal experience with this tire size. But I have not heard anything negative about running it.
199693

Some customers have complained of fuel mileage decrease with the new rear tire. You have to understand that your measured Miles Per Gallon will decrease by at least the percentage of increase in rear tire diameter. In other words. If you increase tire diameter by 7%. Your odometer will read 7% fewer miles than it did with the OEM tire. In any case. The only way to get an accurate MPG is with a GPS as it reports actual miles traveled. Whereas the rear wheel only calculates miles traveled by counting tire revolutions.

[missouriboy]

BajaRon:
This allows tire rotation in either direction and does not require dismount/remount if you move from one side of the vehicle to the other. These are NOT 'Directional'.When radial tires first hit the market, the recommendation was to never rotate them side to side, because once they are "broken-in" to a given direction they should continue in that direction for the life of the tire. Has that admonition gone away now with more modern radial tires?

[Peteoz]

Thanks for enlightening this little black duck, Ron……well there you go……I never gave it much thought, as I have never bought one, but I have to admit that I always thought asymmetric tyres were directional tyres to help shed water, rather than for added strength. You learn something new every day.:2thumbs:

Pete

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

BajaRon:When radial tires first hit the market, the recommendation was to never rotate them side to side, because once they are "broken-in" to a given direction they should continue in that direction for the life of the tire. Has that admonition gone away now with more modern radial tires?
I can't say for sure, but I think it went away 30 or 40 years ago. I first used radials 55 years ago. That was the admonition back then.

[CloverHillCrawler]

The Veredestein Quatrac is an 'All Season' tire. And one of the better choices for the Spyder/Ryker, in my opinion. You're good to go all year around with that tire. The Quatrac is also pretty good in light snow. Though I don't recommend riding any motorcycle in snow. But if you do, let us know how it goes! :thumbup:

Can't tell you about snow as I live in an area that the road treatment destroys cars so the Crawler never sees the road once the treatment goes out on the roads and stays off until a couple of rains after the last treatment.

But the quatracs do handle wet packed sand quite well. I took it out on the beach at night just north of OC Md. Oct 14 ,where the sand was packed down by the tide so I could enjoy a smoke before continuing on with my ride on the coastal highway.

The crawler got a good bath after being in OC for the weekend to wash off the salt and sand.

[BajaRon]

Thanks for enlightening this little black duck, Ron……well there you go……I never gave it much thought, as I have never bought one, but I have to admit that I always thought asymmetric tyres were directional tyres to help shed water, rather than for added strength. You learn something new every day.:2thumbs:

Pete

Most directional tires are considered symmetrical (as is the tire I used to represent that category) But you are correct, an Asymmetric tire (whether directional or not) attempts to combine improved water shedding with a stiffer outside tread area to improve handling. I highlighted the reason I would not recommend this tread type on the rear of the Spyder or Ryker without addressing other attributes. This is why, for the front of our rides, an appropriately sized asymmetric tire could be a good choice. But there is also tire compounds to consider. Which is something that we only lightly touched on.

Just know that a directional tire cannot be moved to the other side of the vehicle without dismount/remount because it must always spin in the same direction. Whereas, an asymmetric tire, while needing to be mounted with correct orientation on the wheel, can be moved to either side of the vehicle without dismount/remount. An asymmetric tire does not care which way it spins.


BajaRon:When radial tires first hit the market, the recommendation was to never rotate them side to side, because once they are "broken-in" to a given direction they should continue in that direction for the life of the tire. Has that admonition gone away now with more modern radial tires?

There is a lot about tires that I have not attempted to cover. I wanted to keep it simple. At least for the first post. But like other subjects. It can get pretty deep. There are a number of things that were once true. But are no longer. This is one of them.

But you are correct. Early radial tires suffered from cord separation when moved to the other side of the vehicle. This cased them to rotate in the opposite direction and there were failures. But this issue has been solved for a very long time. Radial tires, depending on tread design, can be rotated without issue. The reason you don't want to move a directional tire to the other side without remounting to the wheel has nothing to do with cord separation. But because the tread is designed to give best performance in one direction. Turning it around would give very poor performance.

[Peter Aawen]

BajaRon:When radial tires first hit the market, the recommendation was to never rotate them side to side, because once they are "broken-in" to a given direction they should continue in that direction for the life of the tire. Has that admonition gone away now with more modern radial tires?


I can't say for sure, but I think it went away 30 or 40 years ago. I first used radials 55 years ago. That was the admonition back then.


.....

Most directional tires are considered symmetrical (as is the tire I used to represent that category) But you are correct, an Asymmetric tire (whether directional or not) attempts to combine improved water shedding with a stiffer outside tread area to improve handling. I highlighted the reason I would not recommend this tread type on the rear of the Spyder or Ryker without addressing other attributes. This is why, for the front of our rides, an appropriately sized asymmetric tire could be a good choice. But there is also tire compounds to consider. Which is something that we only lightly touched on

Just know that a directional tire cannot be moved to the other side of the vehicle without dismount/remount because it must always spin in the same direction. Whereas, an asymmetric tire, while needing to be mounted with correct orientation on the wheel, can be moved to either side of the vehicle without dismount/remount. An asymmetric tire does not care which way it spins.

......

There is a lot about tires that I have not attempted to cover. I wanted to keep it simple. At least for the first post. But like other subjects. It can get pretty deep. There are a number of things that were once true. But are no longer. This is one of them.

But you are correct. Early radial tires suffered from cord separation when moved to the other side of the vehicle. This cased them to rotate in the opposite direction and there were failures. But this issue has been solved for a very long time. Radial tires, depending on tread design, can be rotated without issue. The reason you don't want to move a directional tire to the other side without remounting to the wheel has nothing to do with cord separation. But because the tread is designed to give best performance in one direction. Turning it around would give very poor performance.

As has been mentioned above, that 'don't swap sides & the direction of rotation of your radial tires' thing has largely been overcome years ago; but as has also been mentioned, any discussion on tires can get pretty deep pretty quickly, and aside from the 'now not such an issue' cord separation thing, there are other reasons that you might want to at least consider carefully before just swapping your wheels across to the other side & thereby making them rotate the other way, and this applies particularly for tires that are lightly constructed &/or have errm.... let's just say 'less than the most robust' of tread support plies, like some OEM tires that all of us here should know of & many of us might dislike or even loathe!! :opps:

Once you've started wearing a tires' tread with it rotating in any one direction, it will create a 'set' in the wear on the tread blocks, and if this wear has been allowed to 'set in' for a reasonable length of time/saaaay, 500 or so miles, then it's gonna take a loooong time for that 'set' in the wear & any 'packing down' of the tread blocks to be 'worn out of/off the tread blocks', if that ever can be done on that tire!! :shocked: And in the meantime, the ride & handling delivered by that tire is not going to be as 'nice or good/safe' as it really should be!! Usually, at least the comfort & feel of the ride will be verrry noticeably poorer; the safety thing, possibly not so obvious.... until you really need it!! :lecturef_smilie:

Still, with a modern radial tire, while swapping sides without flipping on the rim shouldn't be anywhere near as dangerous as it was back in the early days of radial tires, when many people persisted in running the same sort of pressures in their radials as they were used to running in their cross-ply tires (can you see anything familiar in this yet?? :rolleyes: ) if you are running pressures that are heading up towards the top of or even over the ideal pressure range for that tire & the way you are using it under the load you are asking it to carry, it can be pretty uncomfortable at best & at the other end of the scale, because of its less than ideal contact with the road surface &/or in less than ideal conditions, it can even be somewhat dangerous! :shocked: And it can continue to be like that for a verrrry looong time/many thousands of miles! :banghead:

So it's still not an ideal thing to do, altho it's waaaay less of an issue down to an almost minimal concern on good quality well constructed modern radial auto tires than it is on any tires that are lightly constructed &/or have errm.... let's just say 'less than the most robust' of tread support plies &/or not so well made tires, especially if they're being run outside the usual limit of their ideal pressure range for their use/the load they're carrying etc! nojoke . So unless you're running some of those good quality well constructed modern radial auto tires, you still might want to consider things carefully before just swapping front wheels across to the other side without flipping them on the rims! :lecturef_smilie:

Hopefully that hasn't gone too far down the rabbit hole for anyone, cos it's reaaallly easy to get carried away in the subject, something that Ron really didn't want to do & a wish that I've tried to comply with in this little lot! :opps:

Ps: there are quite a few asymetrical treaded tires that have a traditional non-directional carcass with matching strength sidewalls & tread materials, so it's not always an issue to run an asymetrical tire on the rear of a Spyder, even if they might have an 'Inside' &/or an 'Outside' marked on their sidewalls - but you should check for that sidewall strength thing & any issues with even traction delivery before buying, because as Ron mentioned, those that do have one stiffer sidewall or differing 'thrust' &/or traction levels across the tread pattern/face can make your cornering more than just a little iffy when run on the rear of your Spyder!! It's juust not ALWAYS the case, and some asymetrical tires can work really well on any Spyder's rear end! :thumbup:

[lvmyspyder]

Know there is a lot of conversations about tires on this site and especially since the OEM Kenda tires leave so much to be desired.

I have appreciated the information share on this thread. It has made me realize that just because something might fit and its a good replacement, there are other things to consider besides just the fitment and why I will be sending back the 225 60 series if I can and getting the 215 60 series to true up the speedometer. It's also function rather than just form and even though I was looking at the stock width and would like to keep that, 3/8's is not much to give up to true up the speedometer and shrink that height and circumference a bit. Gaining that 1.75" in circumference seems a bit excessive looking at those size comparisons now as well.

Appreciate the information. Thanks much.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Know there is a lot of conversations about tires on this site and especially since the OEM Kenda tires leave so much to be desired.

I have appreciated the information share on this thread. It has made me realize that just because something might fit and its a good replacement, there are other things to consider besides just the fitment and why I will be sending back the 225 60 series if I can and getting the 215 60 series to true up the speedometer. It's also function rather than just form and even though I was looking at the stock width and would like to keep that, 3/8's is not much to give up to true up the speedometer and shrink that height and circumference a bit. Gaining that 1.75" in circumference seems a bit excessive looking at those size comparisons now as well.

Appreciate the information. Thanks much.

IMO, For the perceived benefit from what you are thinking of doing. It will be a waste of both time and money..... But it's Your Time & Your Money. Years ago Danicka Patrick ( the Race car driver ) owned a Spyder ( maybe She still does ?? ) .... I seriously doubt even She could tell the difference unless She read the tire sidewall. My opinion on the Total garbage Kenda's has always been - ride it until it wears out then re-place with an Auto tire, if you can ...... good luck.... Mike :thumbup:

[USAF]

I will be sending back the 225 60 series if I can and getting the 215 60 series to true up the speedometer. It's also function rather than just form and even though I was looking at the stock width and would like to keep that, 3/8's is not much to give up to true up the speedometer and shrink that height and circumference a bit

I didnt know the speedometer is not correct on the Spyders, So you are saying my 22 RTL is not accurate ? and if so, how far off ?

[rjinaz86323]

Thanks Ron, always great information from you. Ron and Forum - I know there are a lot of tire discussions that go on, but it is one discussion point that matters. I see where some are running a 225 60 15, not a 215 60 15 tire, specifically the General Altimax RT43. I got the RT45 after much deliberation, research etc. I did get it in the 225 60 15 size after comparing it with the current current OEM Kenda, which IMHO is a terrible product, both front and rear. Fronts came off with less than 500 miles, such a waste, but definitely one of the must do things to make this machine behave as it should and can.

Knowing many favor the 215 width, for those of you who are running the 225 60 15 in that tire, are you noticing any fitment issue? From what I can see and measurements taken, that size will fit fine on my '18 Spyder RT. I would like your real world experience of running that 225 60 series and what your bike is. Much obliged...

I have been running the General Altimax RT43 SL 225/60R-15 for almost a year on my 2018 F3 Limited. It has made 3 multi-day trips (2 were 2 up), which includes a fair amount of gear in the cases. I run them at 20PSI. I have not noticed any undesirable issues with this tire. It also makes my speedometer almost perfect to my actual speed. I live in Arizona, so they are exposed to some pretty high temps, but also include a lot of mountain riding so also some fairly cold temps.

[lvmyspyder]

Hey Mike, I appreciate your comments and insight on this forum and your last on this thread. I am pretty anal retentive when it comes to my Spyder and if I can eek out any degree of "betterment" on this machine, its a good use of time. :) I will be on on that rear tire for a while and if I can dial in the speedo closer to actual by going the 215 versus the 225, it will be worth the effort, or even if I have to order the other tire and try and sell that 225. In my head I was thinking stock width, that's a plus and its only slightly more than 3/4 of an inch on either side front to back - good to go...

On the fronts, the Kenda's had to go as no amount of effort with balancing, beads, air adjustments would make them run true.

I did as you suggest run the OEM Kenda on the back since new and have almost 10K on it now and it has another season in it definitely, but investing in a better tire at this point, the value of doing so will be there. It will also take a bit of doing to swap that out, so may as well optimize that effort for sure.

I agree with you though, other than the speedo and difference there as a visual, running the 225 versus the 215 would most likely be imperceptible.

Appreciate this forum, the input, experience and recommendations. I know my bike is the better for it. Quite frankly, I would have sold it the first Summer, but one of the members of this forum talked me into giving it a chance and no matter what else he had going on, always went out of his way to help with awesome guidance and recommendations and now I can't wait to get on this bike and ride it and I do at every opportunity. I have a 2008 BMW M3 that I positively adore, but since this bike continues to get better that car sits more and more.

[Peter Aawen]

I didnt know the speedometer is not correct on the Spyders, So you are saying my 22 RTL is not accurate ? and if so, how far off ?

If you are cstill running OEM Tires, then there's a good chance that your car speedo (& odometer, trip meter) is off too! :lecturef_smilie:

It's due to an International Agreement between governments, vehicle, & tire manufacturers et all (maybe in order to ensure that they can never be held accountable for some driver inadvertently speeding? :dontknow: ) that when they leave the factory, all vehicle speedo/odo's will read optimistically, ie faster than the vehicle's true speed/more than true miles travelled by anything up to about 10%, but they will never read slower/more than true speed/miles when they leave the factory on OEM tires run at OE specified pressures!! This is because (& I'm using my words to paraphrase a whole lot of weasel wording legal speak here :rolleyes: ) it'd be to hard (more likely expensive! :p ) for manufacturers to make/use/install & test to confirm accurate speedos & odometers! :shocked:

So the speedo/odo's on new vehicles are all made to read like that, only due to the number of potential variables involved, your Spyder &/or car's specific speedo/odo discrepancy will be showing your travelling faster than true/more miles than true with varying degrees of accuracy! Things like the ambient temperature, tire pressure, but& even variations in tire manufacture will change the EXACT amount that your speedo/odo is out by, but it WILL be out at least a little unless you've increased the rolling dia over that of the OEM tires, and it can be out by as much as about 10% (I think that right now, the 'allowed discrepancy' is actually something like 'up to 10% + 4kmh at an indicated 100kph') ie, you might THINK you're doing 100 kph cos that's what your speedo shows, but your true speed is anything up to 10% plus 4kmh slower, or 14 kph LESS than that - & possibly only 86kph! And your odometer/trip meter distance travelled can be similarly optimistic, but due to manufacturing tolerances, it might not necessarily be exactly the same discrepancy, just something within that range...... :banghead:

So if you ever wonder about how all those other vehicles passing you all the time apparently never get pulled over for speeding, it could well be that they weren't actually speeding, instead it's just that their speedo is a little (or a lottle! :p ) more accurate than yours! :opps:

And then there's the variation in actual tire sizes between the Nominal size printed on the sidewall, and their true/actual size to contend with too! Those OEM Kendas tend to be even more on the small side than most, and that doesn't help the 'accurate gauges/meters' case much, but it does mean that you probably don't need to return that 225/60 series tire lvmyspyder, cos it too will be making your speedo/odo more accurate than it was when you had the OEM 225/50 fitted! (or was it OEM 55?? Duz'n matta! :rolleyes: ) As Mike said, there's probably very little real difference in looks, OR in your final speedo/odo accuracy between it & any 215/60 you'd replace it with anyway!! Either size will be better/more accurate than the OEM tire, and every other difference is small enough not to be of any significant concern, IF you even notice it!! :lecturef_smilie:

So for now, you really don't need to return/swap/sell the 225/60 if you already have, you really can run it safely in the knowledge that your speedo/odo is going to be more accurate than it was, and until you NEED to replace it cos it's worn out, you can simply.....


Ryde More, Worry Less! :ohyea:

[rjinaz86323]

With the 225 60 my Spyder speedometer matches my GPS speed.

[bigbadbrucie]

With the 225 60 my Spyder speedometer matches my GPS speed.

Don’t know if this still holds true, but a number of years ago my NEW THEN GPS came with a notice that it could be out by up tp 10% depending on the number of satellites it was able to connect with. Still true, or.....? Of course there is also the fact that “as your tire wears”, its rolling distance changes, hence your speedo accuracy changes. just my thoughts on this subject. Mike has forgotten way more on this subject than I’ve ever learned, so listen to the experts.

[K80Shooter]

I didnt know the speedometer is not correct on the Spyders, So you are saying my 22 RTL is not accurate ? and if so, how far off ?

About 3 mph.

[Mikey]

If it was 10 out there be some cause for alarm, less than 5, don't swet the small stuff!!:cheers:

[Jetfixer]

For those interested in comparing stock sizes to other available sizes, here's a very handy calculator that will give you a graphical depiction of the differences and describe all the changes. (such as speedo change).

http://www.tire-size-calculator.info/

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I didnt know the speedometer is not correct on the Spyders, So you are saying my 22 RTL is not accurate ? and if so, how far off ?


About 3 mph.

That's at the 60 to 70 mph speed range.

[MarkN]

I have read this thread with great interest and appreciate everyone’s comments. Tire pressures have been commented on. Everything I’ve read says to run the pressures on the frame tag which would be for the stock tires. My question is, with the stiffer sidewall construction of car tires, what would be a good starting point for pressures?

[Longtimer]

I thought I read some where that the 225 60 15 would put the tire very close to the front of the swing arm on a 2020 RTL is this right?? That's why the 215 60 15 was the one to use because of the outside diameter of the tire and also it raised the back of the spyder up higher because the air adjustment went off swing arm not true height of rear of bike say back fender from ground. Lots of good info THANKS. TO EVERYONE

[Crewless]

Even though cord separation, when moved to the other side of the vehicle, has been somewhat solved the belts, depending on the make of the tire, have a small tendency to become unbalanced. It's best to just move back and forth. not a problem on the spyder.

[Peter Aawen]

About 3 mph.

That was only on your Spyder K80, and the variation may not be the same on anyone else's Spyder or vehicle! :shocked: The variation can be & quite likely IS different for each different machine, altho because the gauges are all made basically the same way, some errors may be juust something vaguely similar; others may be very close to yours; but just as equally, there's very likely some out there that are waaayyy off that 3mph error you were lucky enough to get!! So please, be aware that while your error might be close to someone else's, THE ERROR CAN BE DIFFERENT FOR EACH MACHINE &/OR GAUGE! :lecturef_smilie:

For example, when it was new, the 'error' on my 2013 RT on stock tires at the tire placard pressures & an indicated 100 kmh was 13 kmh, or pretty close to 8mph (it's since been calibrated to be accurate with the tires I'm currently running & recently checked/confirmed! ;) ) but the error on the 2010 RT I test rode a year or so earlier than that was only 7 kmh at 100 kmh or about 4.3 mph; and the error on an F3 (IIRC, a 2015 or so?!?) I looked at a 6-8 weeks or so ago was only 3 kmh or just under 2 mph.... and I've recently been talking to the owner of a brand new RT who's worked out that his speedo error is 14 kmh at 100kmh or about 8.7 mph, altho I'm not sure how he arrived at that or what tire pressure he was running, etc.... :rolleyes:

The point is, the error that YOUR Spyder's speedo (or odo/trip meter - and btw, that error isn't necessarily the same as the speedo error, it can be a different error! :rolleyes: ) shows on stock tires etc MAY NOT be the same error evident on anyone else's Spyder - you really need to check each gauge & the speed & distance travelled readings individually! Short of spending a fair whack of money to get your speed/odo individually calibrated to a given, better accuracy by a calibration authority or company, the easiest way that most people will readily have access to in order to work out their machine's individual error is by comparing the indicated speed on their speedo with the actual speed displayed by a good quality GPS that polls at least 8 satellites or so using a reading taken on a straight & level road with no or few overhead/surrounding obstructions like hills, trees, buildings etc. Any of those GPS based 'street navigators' or smartphones that don't use/poll at least that many satelites to arrive at their 'speed' reading or distance travelled may not be accurate enough or responsive enough to reveal a truely useful error reading; and those radar speed display things or road mile markers that you see on the side of the road or hanging off bridges etc rarely are useful because of the inherent difficulties in reading both at the same time, altho they MIGHT be accurate enough to give you some idea if you can read both that quickly; but just as equally, they MIGHT NOT even be in the ballpark of reality &/or timing! :banghead:

But whatever error YOU get on your machine is rarely ever truely useful as anything except a vague indicator or a WAG for anyone else/their machine! :gaah:

Just Sayin' :thumbup:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

That was only on your Spyder K80, and the variation may not be the same on anyone else's Spyder or vehicle! :shocked: The variation can be & quite likely IS different for each different machine, altho because the gauges are all made basically the same way, some errors may be juust something vaguely similar; others may be very close to yours; but just as equally, there's very likely some out there that are waaayyy off that 3mph error you were lucky enough to get!! So please, be aware that while your error might be close to someone else's, THE ERROR CAN BE DIFFERENT FOR EACH MACHINE &/OR GAUGE! :lecturef_smilie:
On the other hand, Peter, the 3 mph number has pretty much been the only number I recall seeing quoted here on the forum. I was going to say 3 mph but K80 beat me to it! But your comment is true. One person's error is no guarantee the next person's error will be the same.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have read this thread with great interest and appreciate everyone’s comments. Tire pressures have been commented on. Everything I’ve read says to run the pressures on the frame tag which would be for the stock tires. My question is, with the stiffer sidewall construction of car tires, what would be a good starting point for pressures?

Both Peter and I suggest 15 to 17 psi for both front and rear will give the best ride .... Add a lb. or two if you ride aggressive or the weight of the driver / passenger & gear is over 350 lbs. .... this is for AUTO tires only..... Mike :thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I thought I read some where that the 225 60 15 would put the tire very close to the front of the swing arm on a 2020 RTL is this right?? That's why the 215 60 15 was the one to use because of the outside diameter of the tire and also it raised the back of the spyder up higher because the air adjustment went off swing arm not true height of rear of bike say back fender from ground. Lots of good info THANKS. TO EVERYONE

Well according to other members here who use that size it will fit, but Yes it is closer to the swing arm ..... I doubt that the slightly larger circumference is an issue with ride height .... it just isn't enough to matter ..... Mike :thumbup:

[lvmyspyder]

Evening and thank you for everyone for weighing in on this. Bought the 225 60 15 from Tire Rack initially. As long as I have an order in for the 215 60 15, which I put in today, they will cover the shipping back and issue a full refund - which I thought was pretty awesome of them. I really appreciated the input on this thread and the information shared. I learned new things and our conversations made me think long and hard about which way I was going to go with this. Regardless of that, you all made me think of things I had not considered. Of course what we do to our bikes is personal, however, I have learned that one can learn a lot by listening and being open to what others are teaching. Appreciate the forum, the opportunity to bat things around and get enough information to make an informed decision. Thank you.

[lvmyspyder]

Here is what the 215 60 15 General Altimax RT45 looks like if you wanted to see it. Again, thank you for all the feedback and information shared here.

[PMK]

2014 RTS, speedometer error was 3 mph with oem Kenda and also the Yokohama s.Drive rear tire. Chose rear tire for improved performance with no concern for speedometer error. Recalibrated speedometer to exactly match the GPS speed.

[PMK]

General 'Rules of Thumb'

Typically, you will trade improved traction (especially wet traction) for a higher mileage tire. A long lasting tire has to use a harder compound which will not grip the roadway as well.

I do not recommend 'Summer' tires in any format for the Spyder/Ryker. Unless you are only going to be riding when pavement is 70 degrees or above. Once the pavement begins to cool, (especially as these summer tires begin to wear) they tend to get slick. It is not so dramatic in a car because of the additional weight. With the relatively light Spyder (especially in the rear) the difference can be pretty dramatic.

If you ride when the pavement is 40 degrees or less, Summer Tires can be very slick, no matter how good or dry the pavement is. This tire compound is specifically designed to give extremely good traction with warm or hot pavement. They are a 1 trick pony. For most of us, we need a good 'All Season' tire.

At the very least. If you're running a 'Summer' tire. Be aware of these tendencies.

Agree that typically, to have a longer lasting or higher mileage life, the tire is a firmer rubber compound that has reduced grip when compared to a performance tire that often utilizes a softer rubber compound.

In an effort to minimize another Bancation, I will simply politely disagree with your opinions about summer tires, the 70*f temp you mentioned as critical is new to me and not a temp I have seen published by a tire manufacturer or anyone for that matter, but will say that your referencing 40*f mimics the temperature Yokohama stated as the minimum for Summer High Performance tires.

After the previous topic regarding touring tires vs high performance tires, I enjoyed a lunchtime conversation with my friend, discussing Spyders and in particular Spyder tires, he shared his opinion with me. Understand that his experience as both an IMSA and Indycar driver and team owner allows him to offer a different perspective regarding tire performance and grip than most other drivers. Our conversation took place after my recent posts regarding comparing more equally touring tires vs performance tires. He did comment, as did BajaRon, typically a quality tire offering more grip, will run a softer compound and obtain less wear mileage before worn out.
His other statement regarding why touring tires are adequate on Spyders vs aiming for increased performance from high performance tires, the Spyder simply does not need high performance tires. In short, and I do agree with him, the Spyder, especially the chassis lacks the ability to require anything more than touring tires. High performance tires can be run, but the chassis itself can not fully appreciate the added grip. He also commented that regardless of how much improved grip, whether substantial or a fraction of a difference, the high performance tires will provide increased grip, but again, the Spyder chassis is more likely the limiting factor.

His comments to me were interesting. Interesting in that yes our Spyder rolls on high performance front tires and summer high performance rear tire. Having adequate grip has never been an issue. I do run 20 psi in all three tires, finding that less in the fronts offers up the feeling of the outside front tire tire trying to tuck under the rim. The rear tends to wag about at less than 20 psi. What his comment had me considering is that for years, if ridden through corners, at cornering forces within the tires ability, the Spyder RT swingarm, long in length, and made from mild steel can be felt flexing. The front A arms can be witnessed flexing under braking, so very likely flex while cornering, and the frame, not being multi dimensional or braced, no doubt is winding up on the longitudinal axis. I support my opinion regarding the 2019 and prior RT series chassis lacking rigidity, on account that when Can Am introduced the F3 series in 2015, it arrived with a rear swingarm that is trussed, and a frame with bolt on braces / stiffeners. In summary, the F3, being a much lighter vehicle, with a lower CG apparently required these chassis improvements.

With all that said, it might suggest, that most decent touring tires, provided they retain grip until well worn, are fully adequate based on the performance level the Spyder chassis can provide. Yes, higher performance tires can be installed and run, will provide more grip, but very unlikely be fully utilized to the tires limit.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

In regards to your post #37, ( above ) having input from someone knowledgeable about actual racing is very valuable. ...... The next time you are discussing this with them ask how many of these race cars have traction systems that are controlled ( and limited ) by Computers - like our Spyders are. I suspect they will say NONE. The Spyders are more limited by those systems than any structural limitations. The traction supplied by " all season " tires easily exceeds the limit the computers are designed with...... Mike :thumbup:

[PMK]

In regards to your post #37, ( above ) having input from someone knowledgeable about actual racing is very valuable. ...... The next time you are discussing this with them ask how many of these race cars have traction systems that are controlled ( and limited ) by Computers - like our Spyders are. I suspect they will say NONE. The Spyders are more limited by those systems than any structural limitations. The traction supplied by " all season " tires easily exceeds the limit the computers are designed with...... Mike :thumbup:

Mike, I agree fully, all Spyders, unless modified are detuned from the factory both in engine output and chassis electronics for reasons deemed by BRP. As I conveyed in my post, structurally, the Spyder RT chassis is very soft. On our machine, having performance suspension items on it, these added items lessen involvement from the onboard computers. Even the most evasive actions never trigger a nanny light. Now if I ride a tight apex and bump the inside tire over an edge, then yes, the nanny gets confused expecting a rollover.

The increased grip from tires prevents wheel spin, skidding a tire, understeer or oversteer. (All assuming dry traction) Regarding the the vehicle attitude sensors, our modified Spyder, compared to a stock Spyder retains a very, very flat attitude during direction changes or cornering. All things considered, I still believe the soft chassis becomes the limiting factor in several ways. Tires, whether high end touring tires, middle range touring tires, or performance tires are not the Spyders limiting factor. On our Spyder, the computers are not a limiting factor either.

Lunch yesterday, I explained my intentions for altering the Spyders front roll center. We discussed this, plus bump steer and more. He laughed when I explained how poorly designed the Spyders steering system is, and how the front suspension does the worst thing when compressed, it toes out. So at the times when stability is desired, cornering and under hard braking, the outside wheel, or bo th wheels toe out, which is bad. A flexy chassis, with steering that bump steer toes out, is not a good thing performance handling wise. I have the tooling and skills to measure bump steer toe out, but decided it best that I should not know.

[lvmyspyder]

The blinders come off the more we discuss this topic, which I for one greatly appreciate. The older I get the, more value I get from listening to others perspective and experience. As well, the more I understand about variables, cause and effect and so how things are very intertwined relating specifically to function and capability. For example, never thought of the the chassis being a limitation when evaluating tire choices. I only know one thing for certain, although somewhat limited, thank goodness we have other choices and are not stuck with OEM Kenda tires, which if you will forgive me are quite literally the worst tire that can be run on these fine bikes, which is again, only this man's option and two cents and likely worth about half of that...

[larryd]

I have a question about tire traction ratings...I've been following this thread and find it very informative...

I plan to replace my Michelin Hydo Edge tire this winter...This is a "water shedding type tread tire" AND I REALLY LIKED THIS TIRE...

Traction rating is "A"...The TOURING tire I plan to use is also a Traction rating "A"...I see that most are using ALL SEASON Tires that are Traction rated "A"...

So my question is; In order to be rated "A"... ARE ALL THESE TIRES TESTED UNDER THE SAME CONDITIONS TO RECEIVE THE "A" RATING???

SO ARE THE WATER SHEDDING TIRES, THE TOURING TIRES & THE ALL SEASON TIRES ALL GIVE THE EXACT SAME WET PERFORMANCE WITH THE "A" RATING???

[PMK]

I have a question about tire traction ratings...I've been following this thread and find it very informative...

I plan to replace my Michelin Hydo Edge tire this winter...This is a "water shedding type tread tire" AND I REALLY LIKED THIS TIRE...

Traction rating is "A"...The TOURING tire I plan to use is also a Traction rating "A"...I see that most are using ALL SEASON Tires that are Traction rated "A"...

So my question is; In order to be rated "A"... ARE ALL THESE TIRES TESTED UNDER THE SAME CONDITIONS TO RECEIVE THE "A" RATING???

SO ARE THE WATER SHEDDING TIRES, THE TOURING TIRES & THE ALL SEASON TIRES ALL GIVE THE EXACT SAME WET PERFORMANCE WITH THE "A" RATING???

No doubt the two tire experts will chime in on this. That rating though is a bit misleading. While it is standardized test, it is a wet traction test, not dry traction. All the ratings are easily explained via the internet.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uniform_Tire_Quality_Grading

[Peter Aawen]

......

So my question is; In order to be rated "A"... ARE ALL THESE TIRES TESTED UNDER THE SAME CONDITIONS TO RECEIVE THE "A" RATING???

SO ARE THE WATER SHEDDING TIRES, THE TOURING TIRES & THE ALL SEASON TIRES ALL GIVE THE EXACT SAME WET PERFORMANCE WITH THE "A" RATING???

Without going into a whole lot of detail, much of which is covered in the link PMK provided above (look at the comments on who conducts the tests, & on the limitations of the treadwear gradings, which may also apply to other gradings! :rolleyes: ) the answer to your question in bold above is broadly speaking, basically a YES!

However, while the answer to the next bit is not quite so clear cut ( :p ) it too is touched upon in the link; but at it's simplest, the answer to that second bit of your question is NO, not necessarily, their individual performance can vary somewhat with the range covered by that grading under those standardised test conditions, but they do all achieve AT LEAST SOMEWHERE in the range for that grading, without being good enough to achieve the next higher grading or poor enough to fall below that grading. And as mentioned in the link:


..... The testing does not take into account cornering, hydroplaning, acceleration or stopping on a dry surface. Nor does it account for the significantly different effectiveness of ABS versus non-ABS braking systems on a tire's stopping distance. ....

So the UTOG standards are a measurable & repeatable method of grading the treadwear, traction, & temperature shedding ability of a tire under the given conditions when subjected to the standardised testing methodology, which only minimises but does not remove all the possible variables that may affect your actual driving/riding, simply because no-one can account for all the possible variations that may occur & impact your particular driving/riding & the resulting effect upon your tires! But if you're looking at tires that have achieved different gradings, they're still a good guide to help you make a choice - and if you're looking at tires that have all achieved the same standard gradings, then you know that they are all capable of performing within the same range in those tests, and therefore are going to have similar minimum capabilities in real life, even if some might be a little better than others - but they weren't good enough to get into the next higher grading (if there is one, ie. they were good enough to be graded as an A, but weren't up to AA level) :lecturef_smilie:

Help any?! :dontknow:

[BajaRon]

In an effort to minimize another Bancation, I will simply politely disagree with your opinions about summer tires, the 70*f temp you mentioned as critical is new to me and not a temp I have seen published by a tire manufacturer or anyone for that matter, but will say that your referencing 40*f mimics the temperature Yokohama stated as the minimum for Summer High Performance tires.



I hope you don't mind me pulling out this single line from your reply. It's the only one I wanted to address and the post was fairly long.

First, not withstanding the oversite decisions made by the moderators. I never mind an opposing opinion. Everyone should be free to have their say. But I understand where you're coming from there. Some take things very personal.

I do need to clarify the 70 degree statement I made about summer tires. This (as you point out) is not any industry standard. But more of a Seat of the Pants experience I've had with a summer tire on my Spyder.

Car tire makers account for the expected weight the tire will be carrying as a factor in traction. As well they should. More weight means more traction in many situations. Our Spyders are much lighter than a car. Especially the rear wheel. And we know that as road surface temperatures dip, traction of a summer tire can suffer. 70 degrees may be a bit high. But my purpose was to inform that temperature can be a substantial detriment to a summer tire. On a very light Spyder rear tire. In my very limited experience, degradation may be felt in temperatures below 70 degrees (pavement, not ambient air).

I am always about discussion. It benefits us all.

[RapidSpyder]

Like the look of this tread, can’t wait to try it out.

199851

[larryd]

Like the look of this tread, can’t wait to try it out.

199851

Looks very similar to the Michelin Hydro Edge...larryd

[PMK]

I hope you don't mind me pulling out this single line from your reply. It's the only one I wanted to address and the post was fairly long.

First, not withstanding the oversite decisions made by the moderators. I never mind an opposing opinion. Everyone should be free to have their say. But I understand where you're coming from there. Some take things very personal.

I do need to clarify the 70 degree statement I made about summer tires. This (as you point out) is not any industry standard. But more of a Seat of the Pants experience I've had with a summer tire on my Spyder.

Car tire makers account for the expected weight the tire will be carrying as a factor in traction. As well they should. More weight means more traction in many situations. Our Spyders are much lighter than a car. Especially the rear wheel. And we know that as road surface temperatures dip, traction of a summer tire can suffer. 70 degrees may be a bit high. But my purpose was to inform that temperature can be a substantial detriment to a summer tire. On a very light Spyder rear tire. In my very limited experience, degradation may be felt in temperatures below 70 degrees (pavement, not ambient air).

I am always about discussion. It benefits us all.

Yes, discussion, a near perfect word to describe your reply, and this reply by me.

Simply, thank you for clarifying the 70*f references. I am unsure of which tire you ran and experienced it giving up grip at 70*f, and living here in SoFlo, obviously typical asphalt temps are well above 40*f and often well above 70*f. However, even in the cooler months, when asphalt temps are below 70*f, I have yet to experience an issue running a summer high performance tire on the rear. By your words though, you found a tire that did perform less than expected.

Still being mindful to avoid Bancation, and responding to your reply is simply discussion, your words very closely match my previous posts in the other topic. The vehicles weight on wheels (WOW) has a significant effect on the tires ability to grip the road surface. I fully agree with this. Expanding that further, and this was not well received in the other topic, touring tires are designed for heavier vehicles, and touring tires have less grip when compared equally to a performance tire (touring tires have even less grip than a summer high performance tire on a warm road surface).

Therefore WOW is a consideration. However, as my race driver friend suggested, maybe the Spyders performance ability, limitations of the design and chassis parameters, do not allow the increased grip offered by the performance tires to be utilized. Touring Tires, even though by design having less grip, fill the balance of cost, longevity, and available grip to make Spyder owners happy since they check the boxes of low cost, longevity, and the owners are not pushing their Spyder to the limits of the tires grip. Add to this many Spyder owners on this forum run tire pressures derived on the 4 psi increase at typical operating temps. This method / formula was not derived for the lighter weight Spyders, but rather derived for the heavier WOW vehicles. That said, if a typical small SUV with touring tires had an initial pressure of as an example 32 psi cold, and when at temp attained 36 psi, the percentage of pressure difference is far less than a Spyder tire with a cold pressure of 17 psi attaining 21 psi when at operating temp. Percentage wise it seems the SUV is a 12% increase while the Spyder is about 25% increase.

Bajaron, out of curiosity, and for safety to others, the Summer Performance tire you ran, that gave up grip at 70*f road temps, could you share that with us.

[rhino1]

Just wondering what tires u would put on, size and brand, front and rear, on my ‘22 RTL. I ride two up majority of the time, but when I do ride solo, I ride alittle aggressive. Rode two wheels all my life. First spyder. It sounds like a I would really like this spyder even more with different tires. O by the way, I’m turning the big 60 on the 22nd of November.��. Thanx for info. Rhino

[lvmyspyder]

Have read some good things about those tires. Like to hear more about your experience with it later on.

[lvmyspyder]

Hey Ron, thank you for the feedback. I liked the tread pattern and looks and the reviews of many of the premiere "summer tires" for the Spyder. I have spent MANY hours reading up on tires this past year and you are spot on with your assessment and comments and the are supported from a wide variety viewpoints and sources.

Summer tires are designed and manufactured for more ideal summer conditions and since we encounter many different riding conditions, IMHO, I think we put ourselves, or passengers and our machines at risk by not having an "all season" tire on all three corners. I am not an expert by any means, but that is one of the conclusions I have come to in my research.

I am replacing my OEM Kenda (finally) and have already replaced my fronts with Federal Formoza AZ01's. Both perform differently in wet versus dry and hot versus cooler or cold and I am sure position on the bike plays into it as well, but my experience is that in the same riding conditions, the variance in performance is exponentially worse on the OEM Kenda and not just saying that because I personally think that tire is sub-par.

[lvmyspyder]

All, wanted to say thanks again for the all the comments generated by this thread. Learned and learning A LOT. I wanted to let you know that I originally purchased a tire from Tire Rack off the web. It was the General Altimax RT45. I ordered in the 225 60 15 size and I think it would have fit my 18 RTL, but I wanted to reduce the overall circumference and the sidewall and after reading about everything I could find, here and elsewhere, I sent that back and got the same tire in the 215 60 15 size. My comments here are just make a hat tip to Tire Rack. They had daily communication with me. They had UPS out to pick up the first tire the day after I ordered the new tire (that was the only stipulation) which was easy because I was going to do that anyway. They still shipped the new one AND the first one for free and they did not have to because this was all on me. So anyway, thought that was pretty cool of them, especially nowdays with return policies and restocking fees etc. The other thing is that it made it from Nevada to Washington on like day two.

Also, thank you for all the feedback here to help educate and inform...much obliged.

[PMK]

Hey Ron, thank you for the feedback. I liked the tread pattern and looks and the reviews of many of the premiere "summer tires" for the Spyder. I have spent MANY hours reading up on tires this past year and you are spot on with your assessment and comments and the are supported from a wide variety viewpoints and sources.

Summer tires are designed and manufactured for more ideal summer conditions and since we encounter many different riding conditions, IMHO, I think we put ourselves, or passengers and our machines at risk by not having an "all season" tire on all three corners. I am not an expert by any means, but that is one of the conclusions I have come to in my research.

I am replacing my OEM Kenda (finally) and have already replaced my fronts with Federal Formoza AZ01's. Both perform differently in wet versus dry and hot versus cooler or cold and I am sure position on the bike plays into it as well, but my experience is that in the same riding conditions, the variance in performance is exponentially worse on the OEM Kenda and not just saying that because I personally think that tire is sub-par.

Interesting reply. While I totally agree that unless a persons local conditions exist to run a summer performance tire, which requires asphalt temps above 40*f, there is no detriment to running a quality (non summer, not temp limited) high performance tire instead of an all season touring tire with less grip.

Also interesting that on your Spyder, you have chosen to run Federal Formoza AZ01 front tires, which Federal describes in sales info as a high performance all season tire, and you will be running, a very high 75,000 expected miles on a passenger car, rear all season touring tire on the rear.

My own thoughts on this, I would prefer some understeer while cornering vs having the rear tire slip into oversteer. Last thing I have enjoyed is having the Spyder rear end pitch sideways while traveling. That was in a straight line when the rear tire hit deeper water, while accelerating, rear end headed to the right side about 12” to 18”. I easily recognized the situation, and brought the throttle back a bit and reacted more quickly than the nanny could to take over. Again no way I would want to have the Spyder rear end deciding it wanted to be the front.

The above mentioned oversteer event, plus wanting to improve the handling further through flowing corners, is why I need to find time to optimize the front roll center of the chassis without inducing tire scrub more than my current toe settings are.

[Snoking1127]

OK, I have Federal Formoza AZ01 165/55r15's on the front of my 2018 RT-L on the chrome starfish wheels. I have 15" Orb Series Front Wheels for the Can-Am Spyder (Set of 2) Chrome wheels on order, and thought I would just put new tires on the new rims and keep the old wheels and tires incase I decide to get a new Spyder. Well finding tires right now in very problematic!

Anyone bought tires recently? Make and size, and where you found them????

BTW I hate the look of the OEM starfish wheels. And original owner damaged to chrome tying it down in a toyhauler 5th wheel.

I really like the OEM 2019+ chrome wheels , however they are really expensive.

So!

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OK, I have Federal Formoza AZ01 165/55r15's on the front of my 2018 RT-L on the chrome starfish wheels. I have 15" Orb Series Front Wheels for the Can-Am Spyder (Set of 2) Chrome wheels on order, and thought I would just put new tires on the new rims and keep the old wheels and tires incase I decide to get a new Spyder. Well finding tires right now in very problematic!

Anyone bought tires recently? Make and size, and where you found them????

BTW I hate the look of the OEM starfish wheels. And original owner damaged to chrome tying it down in a toyhauler 5th wheel.

I really like the OEM 2019+ chrome wheels , however they are really expensive.

So!

Have you checked with ON-LINE sources, I agree production is tight but folks who shop TireRack or Discount Tire seem to be able to get spyder tires in the sizes we use ..... If you go on-line, don't answer any questions nor talk to any sales people ... you are using car tires on a Motorcycle and there are legal issues with the folks who sell them....PS it's NOT illegal for you to use them, it's the selling that's an issue .....JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

[Snoking1127]

Have you checked with ON-LINE sources, I agree production is tight but folks who shop TireRack or Discount Tire seem to be able to get spyder tires in the sizes we use ..... If you go on-line, don't answer any questions nor talk to any sales people ... you are using car tires on a Motorcycle and there are legal issues with the folks who sell them....PS it's NOT illegal for you to use them, it's the selling that's an issue .....JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

I have been to one end and then the other on the internet. At least I have good Federals that I can dismount and put on the new wheels.

[askitee]

I know. A very overworked subject.

At the very least. If you're running a 'Summer' tire. Be aware of these tendencies.

Thanks Ron, Looks like I have been on the right track. Awesome bit of information.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have been to one end and then the other on the internet. At least I have good Federals that I can dismount and put on the new wheels.

I suggested Tire Rack ... they have tires available ( right now ) for the front and rear .... they have the new RIKEN Raptor HR for the rear available ( right now ).... So maybe you need to expand your search ?????? .... JMHO .... Mike ....PS I won't recommend Federals, I think they aren't in the top ten rated tires

[Snoking1127]

I suggested Tire Rack ... they have tires available ( right now ) for the front and rear .... they have the new RIKEN Raptor HR for the rear available ( right now ).... So maybe you need to expand your search ?????? .... JMHO .... Mike ....PS I won't recommend Federals, I think they aren't in the top ten rated tires

Thanks! Ordered 175/55R-15 Vredestein Quatrac SL

I would note about the Federals, Discount Tire could not balance them because they did not have the right cone to mount them on the balancer. Having read that they need very little weight, I said just refund the cost of the balancing and roll them out to me. They have ran just fine and have been very smooth. The OEM Kenda's had a ton of weights on the wheels to balance them.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks! Ordered 175/55R-15 Vredestein Quatrac SL

I would note about the Federals, Discount Tire could not balance them because they did not have the right cone to mount them on the balancer. Having read that they need very little weight, I said just refund the cost of the balancing and roll them out to me. They have ran just fine and have been very smooth. The OEM Kenda's had a ton of weights on the wheels to balance them.

I have bought quite a few tires for Spyders ( since 09 ) I have never had a problem getting FRONT tires balanced at any of the tire shops I brought them to ..... Mike :thumbup:

[Peteoz]

I have bought quite a few tires for Spyders ( since 09 ) I have never had a problem getting FRONT tires balanced at any of the tire shops I brought them to ..... Mike :thumbup:

I couldn’t get my fronts balanced at either my local tyre shop or bike shop, Mike. I ended up going to a local guy’s home shed. He restores old cars and had the right cones. There are a serious number of shops out there without the ability to balance Spyder tyres .

Pete

[BajaRon]

I find this front tire balancing issue puzzling.We purchased a tire balancing machine with a generic, basic cone set. Fits the Spyder front wheels no problem. We don't have near the cone selection that most tire shops have. We just don't need them. But like I said. The set we received has a cone that works just fine. How is it that a much better equipped tire shop does not have the needed cone?

[marty1096]

I have a 2016 RTS.
Please tell me the sizes you put on your spyder.
Vredestein Quatrac Front and Rear Tires.
Thanks in advance

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have a 2016 RTS.
Please tell me the sizes you put on your spyder.
Vredestein Quatrac Front and Rear Tires.
Thanks in advance

Quatrac sizes that fit front are 165/60-15 & 175/55-15 ....also the Quatrac 5 which is the older model ....Vredestein Rear 205/60-15 or 205/65-15 .... in both those models. .... I discovered the Vredestein Brand, however I think the Riken HP ( which I have tested on my RT ) in 225/60-15 is almost as good as the V, but about $22.00 less money...... Good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

[Snoking1127]

Got the new tires and wheels installed. I am liking them!

[BajaRon]

Got the new tires and wheels installed. I am liking them!

You should be very happy with this selection. We've put a good number of these on customer's bikes. And we've had a lot of rain to test them out. They work well, wet or dry. I think the safety factor alone is worth doing your homework. Rubber and round alone are not enough for the Spyder, in my opinion.

[Snoking1127]

You should be very happy with this selection. We've put a good number of these on customer's bikes. And we've had a lot of rain to test them out. They work well, wet or dry. I think the safety factor alone is worth doing your homework. Rubber and round alone are not enough for the Spyder, in my opinion.

NO more starfish wheels to look at. That wheel ran for too many model years!

[Snoking1127]

Got the new tires and wheels installed. I am liking them!

I also installed a new Zumo XT GPS and am liking it also.

[Snoking1127]

I am liking the 175/55R-15 Vredestein Quatrac SL tires. I did the twisties to Canyon Lake and then when onto Saguaro Lake and back home. I had thought the Federal Formosa's had improved handling when they went on, and the Vredestein's are another step up from there. Oh, and I am playing music from the Zumo XT to my TCOM intercom.

New PPA wheels aren't bad either.

[Partzman23]

Snoking, I am really liking those new chrome wheels on your Spyder. I am a chrome guy and those wheels really add to
the overall looks of the Spyder. I have always liked that color also.
Artie

[Snoking1127]

Snoking, I am really liking those new chrome wheels on your Spyder. I am a chrome guy and those wheels really add to
the overall looks of the Spyder. I have always liked that color also.
Artie

I like the 2019 chrome wheels, however they are twice to price of the PPA ORB chrome wheels.