Are the front tire valves standard size? Any videos on coolant changing?

[Tourer]

Good Afternoon. Have a couple of questions.
Have a 2015 F3S.
Are the tire valve stems for the front wheels the standard size. Would like to get a longer stem when I do the tires.
Also, I have the procedure for changing the coolant but would like a video. Did some searches but only see them for the RT.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Good Afternoon. Have a couple of questions.
Have a 2015 F3S.
Are the tire valve stems for the front wheels the standard size. Would like to get a longer stem when I do the tires.
Also, I have the procedure for changing the coolant but would like a video. Did some searches but only see them for the RT.

I have Never seen tire valves for " J " ( auto / spyder ) type wheels in Different diameters .... the length can vary ...... I don't have a vid on this .... but many, many folks say DO NOT TOUCH THE DRAIN VALVE it will break ...... dis-connect the bottom Hose .... use a quality hose clamp to re-attach hose .... Mike :thumbup:

[Navydad]

Yes the tire valves are a standard size. When I had the local tire place install my Federals on the front I had them install longer stems.

[Bfromla]

More people have trouble with the rear than fronts:popcorn:, yes caution on drain plug, advisable just remove bottom hose & replace with worm gear hose clamp, along with will be draining/flush every 2years

[BertRemington]

Tourer -- I can't speak to F3S directly but if the coolant hasn't been changed for several years the hoses will be hard to remove. Use care, twisting the hose back and forth before pulling it off. Try to avoid using pry-type tools. I removed the hose from the ABS manifold not the radiator because I thought it would be stronger and more repairable than the aluminum radiator.

WRT regard to clamps don't use Pep Boys worm gear clamps but rather constant torque liner clamps like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N9AEH0M The worm gear clamps will tighten unevenly leading to hose damaging tightening to stop leakage.

After refilling the coolant you will need several 2-4bar cycles to "burp" all the air out. Check the expansion tank often. Overfill is less harmful than underfill.

[Tourer]

Thanks for the responses guys. It makes great sense about the constant torque liner clamp. Thanks Bert.
Am assuming the link you posted is the needed size.

[BertRemington]

Tourer -- like I said I can't speak to F3S directly but it's likely BRP used the same radiators as my 2014. Anyway measure the diameter. I just happen to have 4 spare clamps. :D If the diameter matches PM me your address and I'll mail you one.

[PMK]

Seems a tad odd that folks keep mentioning the radiator drains. Yes, early Spyders had them, but for about 10 years now, the RT series has not had any means to drain the coolant other than disconnecting a lower radiator hose.

Pretty certain, if the maintenance manual is referenced, it explains this, possibly stating which hose to disconnect.

A few months ago, while accomplishing other tasks too, I replaced all the Oketiker style clamps with non perforated worm clamps of the correct width and diameter. No constant tension style clamps were utilized, and the results have been acceptable so far.

Best part about all that work was finally finding the intermittent coolant smell. Turned out it was a leaking oem clamped hose buried on the upper “T” fitting.

[PMK]

Tourer -- I can't speak to F3S directly but if the coolant hasn't been changed for several years the hoses will be hard to remove. Use care, twisting the hose back and forth before pulling it off. Try to avoid using pry-type tools. I removed the hose from the ABS manifold not the radiator because I thought it would be stronger and more repairable than the aluminum radiator.


The greatest concern in my opinion regarding hose removal is not the hose releasing from the bung, but rather cutting off the oem clamp without damage to the hose or stressing the hose bung.

The oem clamps do not come off easily. No doubt various methods may work. I found the simplest and least stress into surrounding items and minimal chance for damaging the hose to be by cutting the clamps raised portion with compound sheet metal snips.
Many of the hose bungs are plastic and not very sturdy. The snips effectively worked to release the clamp by cutting it in one simple attempt.

With the clamp removed, all my hoses easily released with an effortless twist. I do suggest, on reassembly to ensure completely dry assembly, even wiping the hose interior and bung clean with alcohol.

[JayBros]

The greatest concern in my opinion regarding hose removal is not the hose releasing from the bung, but rather cutting off the oem clamp without damage to the hose or stressing the hose bung.

The oem clamps do not come off easily. No doubt various methods may work. I found the simplest and least stress into surrounding items and minimal chance for damaging the hose to be by cutting the clamps raised portion with compound sheet metal snips.
Many of the hose bungs are plastic and not very sturdy. The snips effectively worked to release the clamp by cutting it in one simple attempt.

With the clamp removed, all my hoses easily released with an effortless twist. I do suggest, on reassembly to ensure completely dry assembly, even wiping the hose interior and bung clean with alcohol.

I use a Dremel tool with a cutting bit and find it very effective in removing Oetiker clamps, wherever they are located.

[PMK]

I use a Dremel tool with a cutting bit and find it very effective in removing Oetiker clamps, wherever they are located.

Considered that, but decided one slip and good bye hose. Plus, replacing all of them, many were in awkward locations. Yes I understand that those buried within the difficult areas were a non issue for you, I just found the no risk one second snip and done easier. Plus no debris from cutting with a wheel. Glad your method worked for you.

[Tourer]

Found one locally. Did what I should have done before asking about the size. Looked up the original part number and the clamp is 36.1mm.
Thanks for the offer Bert.