What to watch for if buying a 2011 RT

[Wrongway]

Hello everyone.
I’m considering purchasing a 2011 base Spyder RT with the SM5 (manual) transmission.
The spyder is at our local and reputable Can Am dealer and is being sold with a safety.
Bike has 51,000 kms (32,000 miles)
I previously have had a 2012 RT-S with the SE5 and had to replace the clutch so I’m very Leary of buying the automatic again.
From what I’ve read, the clutch issues associated with the SE5 don’t exist with the manual transmission.
Anyway, I’m wondering if there should be anything to BEWARE OF and also if there are any large maintenance items that need to be addressed with this mileage.
I tried to get the owners manual or maintenance schedule online with no luck.
Thanks very much
Greg

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hello everyone.
I’m considering purchasing a 2011 base Spyder RT with the SM5 (manual) transmission.
The spyder is at our local and reputable Can Am dealer and is being sold with a safety.
Bike has 51,000 kms (32,000 miles)
I previously have had a 2012 RT-S with the SE5 and had to replace the clutch so I’m very Leary of buying the automatic again.
From what I’ve read, the clutch issues associated with the SE5 don’t exist with the manual transmission.
Anyway, I’m wondering if there should be anything to BEWARE OF and also if there are any large maintenance items that need to be addressed with this mileage.
I tried to get the owners manual or maintenance schedule online with no luck.
Thanks very much
Greg

Bad news .... they are the SAME Transmission .... the SE is activated by a solenoid ..... Personally I'd be way more concerned about a Clutch from a Manual transmission .... they can be easily abused .... the SE can't ..... Mike :thumbup:

[DGoebel]

...
I tried to get the owners manual or maintenance schedule online with no luck.
Thanks very much
Greg
Greg, Owner's manual at https://www.operatorsguides.brp.com and has the maintenance schedule in it. Also I've been very happy with Maintenance manuals from
https://greatrepairmanuals.com/can-am-spyder.htm aka https://canammanuals.com/can-am-spyder-manual.htm Same guy both websites. Comes with more than the Maintenance manuals, their 2010 - 2011 RT manuals updates as recently as 2019.

[Wrongway]

Greg, Owner's manual at https://www.operatorsguides.brp.com and has the maintenance schedule in it. Also I've been very happy with Maintenance manuals from
https://greatrepairmanuals.com/can-am-spyder.htm aka https://canammanuals.com/can-am-spyder-manual.htm Same guy both websites. Comes with more than the Maintenance manuals, their 2010 - 2011 RT manuals updates as recently as 2019.

Very very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to help. It’s appreciated.

[Wrongway]

Bad news .... they are the SAME Transmission .... the SE is activated by a solenoid ..... Personally I'd be way more concerned about a Clutch from a Manual transmission .... they can be easily abused .... the SE can't ..... Mike :thumbup:

Thanks for the reply. It’s appreciated. I guess my fear with the SE5 is that if the revs aren’t kept high for shifting, there have been clutch failures and I’ve been one of the victims with a costly clutch replacement. My understanding is that with the SM5, the problem goes away but can’t remember the technical reason for this.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks for the reply. It’s appreciated. I guess my fear with the SE5 is that if the revs aren’t kept high for shifting, there have been clutch failures and I’ve been one of the victims with a costly clutch replacement. My understanding is that with the SM5, the problem goes away but can’t remember the technical reason for this.

The " need higher revs " Credo is NOT for the transmission. .... it's because the V-twins had magneto's that didn't produce enough juice to maintain the power level in the battery, unless you kept the revs above 3500 rpm's. The SE trans is almost impossible to LUG, when the revs get too low the SE downshifts..... all the way to 1st gear if necessary. ..... Mike :thumbup:

[Woodaddict]

Thanks for the reply. It’s appreciated. I guess my fear with the SE5 is that if the revs aren’t kept high for shifting, there have been clutch failures and I’ve been one of the victims with a costly clutch replacement. My understanding is that with the SM5, the problem goes away but can’t remember the technical reason for this.

also a possibility, using wrong oil can have slippage problems in SE or SM

[pegasus1300]

The reason for the higher revs on the 998 is that the clutch engagement is via a centrifugal engagement and the revs must be high enough to fully engage the clutch or it will slip and wear out early. Keep the RPM above 3800 and you are fine. I have 74,000 on my 2912 SE5 and the clutch still grabs hard.

[Wrongway]

The reason for the higher revs on the 998 is that the clutch engagement is via a centrifugal engagement and the revs must be high enough to fully engage the clutch or it will slip and wear out early. Keep the RPM above 3800 and you are fine. I have 74,000 on my 2912 SE5 and the clutch still grabs hard.

I’m glad that you’ve had better luck that I had. I bought a 2012 SE5 RT used from an older gentleman (I was old but he was older lol). Anyway, it only had 15,000 miles on it when I bought it. I was well aware of the importance of keeping the revs high before shifting but despite that the clutch started slipping at 20,000 miles and I had to have it replaced.
That’s why this time I’m thinking that if I buy another 998 I may be wiser to buy an SM5.

[ARtraveler]

RE: High rev's.

The early 990/998 twins liked high revs. 5500 was recommended for them. I got where I knew the revs by feel, but was always consious to keep in around 5000-5500. You did not have to use all the gears. I NEVER used 5th gear unless I was driving over 55 mph. I drove 50 miles in first gear on the Hana highway in Maui HI. That road had 30 mph speed limit and most of the time 15 mph was considered fast.

The 1330 threes like a 3500 ballpark and 6th gear works well at 55 ish.

[safecracker]

I have a 2011 RTS SM5, I just turned over 92,000 miles. It still has the original clutch. I ride double over 90% of the time. I have no issues traveling at 3,200 rpms, depends on what gear and what the road is like. I usually try to keep over 4,000 rpm to keep stator output up. I usually shift to second in 20-30 mph, 3rd between 30-40 and 4th 40-55 mph. In 5th gear at 56 mph engine is turning 4,000 rpm's. My Spyder averages around 33 to 35 mpg if driven between 45 to 65 mph. Any speed higher it drops alot. 75 to 80 mph around 24 to 26 mpg. My biggest concern for the 2011 would be the vacuum hoses. Also keep an eye on oil level after a 1,000 miles after having an oil change. Since it is a manual keep an I on the clutch fluid level. I think a 2011 would be a good buy. I would also set the tension all the way up on the front shocks. My 2011 runs great. I have no worries of taking off on my Spyder. Matter of fact in the last 2 days I have crossed into 3 different states. Best of luck on your choice. Bruce

[Wrongway]

So today my wife and I test rode a 2011 RT (basic) SM5.
It’s been 2 years since I’ve ridden a Spyder so it felt really twitchy for about 100 yards and then everything came back to me.
I kinda liked the manual shifting once I got used to the friction zone for the clutch.
I’m planning on going to the dealer in the morning and purchasing it.
We’re in our 70’s now so long touring is done. At the most we might do 400kms in a day but that wouldn’t be often.
I’m only going with the manual because of the clutch issues I had with the SE5 that I had a few years ago.

[Wrongway]

I have a 2011 RTS SM5, I just turned over 92,000 miles. It still has the original clutch. I ride double over 90% of the time. I have no issues traveling at 3,200 rpms, depends on what gear and what the road is like. I usually try to keep over 4,000 rpm to keep stator output up. I usually shift to second in 20-30 mph, 3rd between 30-40 and 4th 40-55 mph. In 5th gear at 56 mph engine is turning 4,000 rpm's. My Spyder averages around 33 to 35 mpg if driven between 45 to 65 mph. Any speed higher it drops alot. 75 to 80 mph around 24 to 26 mpg. My biggest concern for the 2011 would be the vacuum hoses. Also keep an eye on oil level after a 1,000 miles after having an oil change. Since it is a manual keep an I on the clutch fluid level. I think a 2011 would be a good buy. I would also set the tension all the way up on the front shocks. My 2011 runs great. I have no worries of taking off on my Spyder. Matter of fact in the last 2 days I have crossed into 3 different states. Best of luck on your choice. Bruce

Thanks Bruce:
The purchase is from a very large and reputable Can Am dealer and is only 5 kms from home. I’ve bought from them before and have used them for service as well so I have confidence in them.
Your write up is very very helpful. Maybe I’ll tape it to the inside of the windshield lol.
So you’re thinking that the front shocks should be set at 5?? If I’m correct, that’s the max stiffness correct??? Is the setting at 5 for cornering and curves???
I put a Baja Ron sway bar on the 2012 that I had and it made the world of difference in turns and curves. Do you have an aftermarket sway bar on yours??
Lot’s of questions I know but with 92,000 miles I think you are a very very qualified advisor.
Thanks for your help, Greg

[safecracker]

Yes, set the springs to their stiffest setting. It will help. I do not have a aftermarket sway bar. One thing I forgot to mention is the oil level. On the SE5 you had to keep the oil level near the full mark, on a SM5 you do not need too. I keep mine around half way. This helps keep oil residue out of your air box. Oil residue can cause your throttle bodies(butterfly valves) to stick. Also a SM5 you can leave in gear and bike will not roll when shut off. Bruce

[Wrongway]

Yes, set the springs to their stiffest setting. It will help. I do not have a aftermarket sway bar. One thing I forgot to mention is the oil level. On the SE5 you had to keep the oil level near the full mark, on a SM5 you do not need too. I keep mine around half way. This helps keep oil residue out of your air box. Oil residue can cause your throttle bodies(butterfly valves) to stick. Also a SM5 you can leave in gear and bike will not roll when shut off. Bruce

Thanks Bruce: more good information.
Out of curiosity, what brand and size tire do you use on the rear??

[pegasus1300]

Congratulations on your new Spyder. Since you are buying from a dealer, ask him to make sure there is an Owner's Manual with the machine. As per Bruce, you may want to run your shocks at #5. You already know the value of Ron's sway bar, do you know if your new Spyder has one from the PO? Be sure to check the vacuum hoses that come off the MAP sensor, there are 2 of them and being of rubber from the factory they crack with age and heat. I replaced mine with silicone hoses 7 years ago and they are still doing well.
Please post some pictures when you get your new (to you) RT.

[Wrongway]

Congratulations on your new Spyder. Since you are buying from a dealer, ask him to make sure there is an Owner's Manual with the machine. As per Bruce, you may want to run your shocks at #5. You already know the value of Ron's sway bar, do you know if your new Spyder has one from the PO? Be sure to check the vacuum hoses that come off the MAP sensor, there are 2 of them and being of rubber from the factory they crack with age and heat. I replaced mine with silicone hoses 7 years ago and they are still doing well.
Please post some pictures when you get your new (to you) RT.

Thanks Paul:
Got the Owners Manual already. I’ll have them make sure the fronts are at #5. Already asked them to check the hoses and the sway bar.
Lousy time of year to buy. I just walked the dog at 7 AM and it was chilly. That’s ok though, still a couple of months of good riding left before the real cold weather.

[safecracker]

I am running General Altimax on front and back. I forgot to mention last year I replaced the intake boots and valve cover gaskets, boots started cracking and valve covers were starting to weep oil. Bruce

[M109Dreamer]

I have a 2011 RTS/SE5. I would check to see if the gas cap had been changed. Can't remember if it was an actual recall or not, part of the fuel smell issue. Also check and see if the air vents have been installed, the 2013 had the recall but I installed them on ours and it does help with the heat in the summer time. Check the 2 vacuums lines on the left side. They seems to crack pretty easy and replace with the same size/length silicone lines. See if there is a maintenance history about the throttle bodies. I had 1 replaced under warranty. BRP changed the software at first but ended up replacing it as it kept throwing a code. Was something about the timing of the throttle bodies would remain open longer I believe when you shut the bike off. The only part I had to replaced that was a big $$$ item was the center cluster went out. Other than that, havent had any issues in 11 years with ours.

[Wrongway]

Thanks to everyone for your valued input. It’s greatly appreciated.
I did the paperwork this morning so now I just have to wait until next Wednesday to pick it up.
We’re both very excited to be getting a Spyder again.
Regards
Greg

[ARtraveler]

Thanks to everyone for your valued input. It’s greatly appreciated.
I did the paperwork this morning so now I just have to wait until next Wednesday to pick it up.
We’re both very excited to be getting a Spyder again.
Regards
Greg

:congrats:

[safecracker]

Congrats...