How to reduce the loud knock when you put it in first gear?

[daz]

Just like a Harley and other bikes when I start the 2018 and put it in first gear it makes a heck of a noise. Clank! or Knock! Is there a way to make it more quiet? My oil is fresh by the way.

[Peter Aawen]

You can MINIMISE that clunk by starting the engine & letting it warm up a little longer before trying to select a gear, but apart from that, you just hafta get used to the clunk! :lecturef_smilie:

It's the nature of the beast, and it won't hurt anything, so learn to love it! Basically, it happens to some degree on every machine with a constant mesh transmission & a wet clutch - it's simply because when you start the engine in Neutral, the driveline downstream of the clutch isn't yet turning, so when you go to select either First or Reverse, the gearbox hasta pick up & start spinning a bunch of extra components, and that is what causes the clunk! From there on in, the whole lot is already spinning so there should be no clunk on any other gear change - at least, not until you stop it & put it in Neutral again! ;)

The clutch/gearbox is designed to handle this - in fact, early in the piece (2012 maybe?! :dontknow: anyone have a firm date?? :p ) the clutch plates were upgraded to reduce the chance of any damage occurring even more.... and that did tend to make the clunk a little more obvious. :rolleyes: But, they all have it, it's part of the mechanical design & nature of these types of clutch/trans arrangements,
and it's not hurting anything. You can minimise it by warming the oil up a bit longer, but apart from that,
Learn to Love it as part of the Experience! :ohyea:

Aaand then you can just..... Ride More, Worry Less! :thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You can MINIMISE that clunk by starting the engine & letting it warm up a little longer before trying to select a gear, but apart from that, you just hafta get used to the clunk! :lecturef_smilie:

It's the nature of the beast, and it won't hurt anything, so learn to love it! Basically, it happens to some degree on every machine with a constant mesh transmission & a wet clutch - it's simply because when you start the engine in Neutral, the driveline downstream of the clutch isn't yet turning, so when you go to select either First or Reverse, the gearbox hasta pick up & start spinning a bunch of extra components, and that is what causes the clunk! From there on in, the whole lot is already spinning so there should be no clunk on any other gear change - at least, not until you stop it & put it in Neutral again! ;)

The clutch/gearbox is designed to handle this - in fact, early in the piece (2012 maybe?! :dontknow: anyone have a firm date?? :p ) the clutch plates were upgraded to reduce the chance of any damage occurring even more.... and that did tend to make the clunk a little more obvious. :rolleyes: But, they all have it, it's part of the mechanical design & nature of these types of clutch/trans arrangements,
and it's not hurting anything. You can minimise it by warming the oil up a bit longer, but apart from that,
Learn to Love it as part of the Experience! :ohyea:

Aaand then you can just..... Ride More, Worry Less! :thumbup:

:agree: .... I only use a FULL syn oil .... the thing I do to lessen the " clunk " is after staring the engine, I wait untill the " Idling " revs get down to 900 rpm's ..... This does not eliminate the Clunk, but does quiet it. :thumbup:

[gkamer]

Good explanation Pete.

[Peteoz]

Good explanation Pete.

Shhhhhhhh, Greg…..don’t say that…..you’ll give him a swelled head ;)

Pete

[JayBros]

The topic of the standard "clunk" of a constant mesh transmission should be added to the Do's and Do Nots sticky.

[2dogs]

If you shift into first or reverse just at the right moment after startup, there will be no clank or clunk. It takes practice but it can be done. I installed stage 2 and if I follow that same procedure I have to check the dash light to confirm it's in gear. It shifts so quietly and smoothly it's dam scarry. So to answer your question, Yes, there is a way.

[Piratezz]

My F3s on start-up, is not giving a clunk, but it's more noticeable, when the machine is fully warmed up, as said above, the wet clutch is designed to work that way, no harm can be done to the gears...

[Little Blue]

:chat:..This is a known problem and is going to be there.
Have Clunk and just enjoy your Ryde Time. ....:thumbup:

[trikermutha]

Clutch and oil . You may get it not sounds as bad but will always be there.

On the Harleys primary chain adjustment , tension and clutch adjustment had to be right on. Along with there Compensator.

I have read some have rocked there Spyder to cut down on the knock when shifting.

I would just drive and worry less in this case.

[daz]

Ok fellows, thanks for the encouragement ! I'll take your advice and ride more.

[ulflyer]

If you shift into first or reverse just at the right moment after startup, there will be no clank or clunk. It takes practice but it can be done. I installed stage 2 and if I follow that same procedure I have to check the dash light to confirm it's in gear. It shifts so quietly and smoothly it's dam scarry. So to answer your question, Yes, there is a way.

Can you elaborate on what is the "right moment"? Always interested in trying something new. thanks.

[2dogs]

Can you elaborate on what is the "right moment"? Always interested in trying something new. thanks.

Yes. There is a split second just after the starter disengages and the engine begins to pick up RPMs when the system will allow the transmission to be shifted into gear. It takes a bit of practice to catch that sweet spot, but when you find that spot you'll be amazed at just how smooth it engages. No clunk or clank. It would greatly behoove anyone interested to do a bit of research on the spyder's transmission to understand how and why the clunk is there. Understanding it and why there's no damage being done will ease a lot of concerns. Good luck and thanks for asking. (By the way, this procedure is only for the SE6.)

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Yes. There is a split second just after the starter disengages and the engine begins to pick up RPMs when the system will allow the transmission to be shifted into gear. It takes a bit of practice to catch that sweet spot, but when you find that spot you'll be amazed at just how smooth it engages. No clunk or clank. It would greatly behoove anyone interested to do a bit of research on the spyder's transmission to understand how and why the clunk is there. Understanding it and why there's no damage being done will ease a lot of concerns. Good luck and thanks for asking. (By the way, this procedure is only for the SE6.)

Thanks ..... I'm going to try this method .....Mike :thumbup:

[Isopedella]

Yes. There is a split second just after the starter disengages and the engine begins to pick up RPMs when the system will allow the transmission to be shifted into gear. It takes a bit of practice to catch that sweet spot, but when you find that spot you'll be amazed at just how smooth it engages. No clunk or clank. It would greatly behoove anyone interested to do a bit of research on the spyder's transmission to understand how and why the clunk is there. Understanding it and why there's no damage being done will ease a lot of concerns. Good luck and thanks for asking. (By the way, this procedure is only for the SE6.)

Himmm. Give that a go.
Thanks.

[missouriboy]

Thanks ..... I'm going to try this method .....Mike :thumbup:I tried twice and had no luck.
I guess I'll just get myself a new business card:
Have Clunk
Will Travel
:yes:

[RayBJ]

I found that by putting my earplugs in before engaging the 1st time after starting, the clunk is greatly reduced. :dontknow:

[ulflyer]

2Dogs: thanks for feedback. Been trying to fig this out on mine and have found a procedure that worked consequently the last five times it was started on today's ride.

Upon stopping I leave it in 1st gear (not sure this has to do with anything; just the way I did it today). Upon cranking, have your thumb on the shifter and the instant it starts, hit the shifter. Don't wait for the panel to light up. When panel lights up I find that I am in 1st gear, no clunk occurred, and can then shift to reverse, if desired, again, without a clunk.

This situation of no clunking has happened on and off throughout the summer and it was only today that i was able to repeat it the last several times I stopped and started on the way home.

Not sure when I'll get to try it again since the forcast now calls for really cold and who knows when a warm day with come again. Can't wait to see if its works.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I tried twice and had no luck.
I guess I'll just get myself a new business card:
Have Clunk
Will Travel
:yes:

I also tried " 2dogs " method..... I had no luck mastering that technique :banghead: ..... so I'll go back to what works for me ..... just wait until the REVS are low ( 800-850) very little Clunk ..... Mike :thumbup:

[WDAVEY]

ulflyer - your method is similar to what I used to do in my old Harley days. Had my foot on the shifter and put it into 1st gear while the engine was still cranking on the starter.

[2dogs]

2Dogs: thanks for feedback. Been trying to fig this out on mine and have found a procedure that worked consequently the last five times it was started on today's ride.

Upon stopping I leave it in 1st gear (not sure this has to do with anything; just the way I did it today). Upon cranking, have your thumb on the shifter and the instant it starts, hit the shifter. Don't wait for the panel to light up. When panel lights up I find that I am in 1st gear, no clunk occurred, and can then shift to reverse, if desired, again, without a clunk.

This situation of no clunking has happened on and off throughout the summer and it was only today that i was able to repeat it the last several times I stopped and started on the way home.

Not sure when I'll get to try it again since the forcast now calls for really cold and who knows when a warm day with come again. Can't wait to see if its works.

It takes a few times of missing it to find it. I'm going to play around with your method to see if I can get it to work. It just might be better than the way I'm doing it. We've got 14" of white stuff on the ground here now so it will be a while until I start it again.

[BajaRon]

It's not a problem... So I ignore it. I've had a lot of constant mesh transmission machines over the years. Every one of them did it. It's like the sun coming up in the morning. You may like it. You may not. But it's best to learn to live with it because you aren't going to stop it. There are many more important things to expend your aggravation on! :rolleyes:

[2dogs]

It's just a little competition between me and the tranny and nothing more. Sometimes I win and sometimes the tranny wins.

[BajaRon]

It's just a little competition between me and the tranny and nothing more. Sometimes I win and sometimes the tranny wins.

I figure if I can get it to run. It's going to be fun! It may clunk. But it's not junk! You may laugh as I go by. But I'll be having too much fun to care as to why!

In short... It's All Good!

[Bangorbob]

I don't know what is worse-the clunk into R and/or 1st OR the clunk of my knees. I know this doesn't help, but a little humor may go a long way. Almost every ride I had has done this. Start it, ride it and enjoy life as life itself is wayyyyy to short.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I figure if I can get it to run. It's going to be fun! It may clunk. But it's not junk! You may laugh as I go by. But I'll be having too much fun to care as to why!

My, my, you is a poet, and we didn't know it! :roflblack:

[SLICE]

i have Harley hearing/ gun range hearing/factory hearing/Death metal concert hearing.
i doubt i could hear a clunk with a deatherscope. :)

[ulflyer]

It takes a few times of missing it to find it. I'm going to play around with your method to see if I can get it to work. It just might be better than the way I'm doing it. We've got 14" of white stuff on the ground here now so it will be a while until I start it again.

Same here; its a challenge trying to ''beat the system". Just to clarify any misconception in my thread above when i said "have your thumb on the shifter.....", I meant to say be ready to press it the instant the motor starts.

[ClayJ]

You know, I asked about the clunk 2 years ago when I bought the bike. "It's no big deal" everyone said. Then my drive sprocket stripped out and left me in the middle of a major highway leaving me with no drive power.

And here you are asking "What about the big clunk"?
"It's no big deal" everyone says.
...

I wonder if the big clunk really is a big deal. It does get transferred all the way to to the rear wheel, so it does go through the drive sprocket.
I could swear it got louder and more powerful with time.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You know, I asked about the clunk 2 years ago when I bought the bike. "It's no big deal" everyone said. Then my drive sprocket stripped out and left me in the middle of a major highway leaving me with no drive power.

And here you are asking "What about the big clunk"?
"It's no big deal" everyone says.
...

I wonder if the big clunk really is a big deal. It does get transferred all the way to to the rear wheel, so it does go through the drive sprocket.
I could swear it got louder and more powerful with time.

The ...CLUNK ... has Nothing to do with the front Sprocket issue , they arn't related ..... All mtc's that have gears that are Straight cut ....like the Spyders .... have the same CLUNK ...... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup: