Rear hub, what to remove?

[Don60]

Hello, I have a 2021 Spyder RT Limited and want to know what needs to be removed from rear hub to replace the rear tire? I know I will have to take left side sprocket off, but do I need to remove the rotor from the right side? Videos I can find shows a two piece hub, newer models have a single piece hub, right? Thanks

[WilcoJunoHotel]

I left the disc brake rotor and the ABS ring on the hub when I took it to the dealer to have the tire mounted.

The sprocket/pulley and the rubber isolation pads will need to come off and you may wish to mark the position of the pulley and the wheel and mark each pad with some blue tape so that it all goes back together in the same places.

Hardest part of the entire tire change is getting the belt adjusted so that it is riding in the correct position on the sprocket - once you get it all put back together. I found that it moves even after torqueing the axle nut down so what I wound up doing was putting the belt slightly off the ideal spot on the pulley before torqueing to allow for the small amount it moves afterwards. It's fiddly - You have to hold your tongue just right.;)

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[Don60]

Thanks for your insight! Not going to dealer, wanting to replace with car tire and dealer will not do that. But thinking with the new style tire machines, they should be able to remove/replace tire without removing rotor and ABS ring?

[pegasus1300]

Watch finless bob's you tube video on removing the wheel without disturbing the belt adjustment. Older Spyder but the principals apply. When you put your sprocket back in the rubber snubbers spray them liberaly with windex non ammonia so the tabs will go in easy. It will dry quick and not hurt the rubber. Once you have the wheel in place and snugged down run a ratchiting tie down around the wheel and up to a foot peg or floorboard and tighten it up. You can now torque your wheel and it wont move. Good luck and ha ve fun. I already had a 36 mm socket and bought a 36mm combination wrench from Summit racing. Good quality and cheaper then local.

[Don60]

Already watched his video, gives some great advice. Thanks for your input on the ratchet strap! Have done a lot of work on Spyders in the past, just never messed with changing rear tire. Learning to do it myself will be nice and save money.

[RICZ]

A while back there was a post by a fellow having a problem with rear axle squirm when tightening. A peep replied with this tip: apply some anti seize to the working face of the bolt head to prevent crawl. I haven't yet to try that, so can't give a report.
If you avoid touching the adjusters, the belt will ride where it did before wheel removal.

[Jetfixer]

All the above are great advice. I have always removed the brake rotor with the abs wheel on it as additional insurance against tire machine/operator damage.

[Don60]

Jetfixer, that sounds like good insurance! Was not wanting to, but as you stated, better to not have any extra costs! Thanks

[WilcoJunoHotel]

If you avoid touching the adjusters, the belt will ride where it did before wheel removal.

I didn't move the adjusters and the belt moved. The problem is that the axle moves a small amount during the tightening of the axle nut and this small amount is enough to cause the belt to "walk".

You have to keep constant tension on the axle so that it stays in contact (with significant pressure) with the adjuster blocks throughout the tightening process.

There are a few posts here on the forum with suggestions to BRP to change the design of the adjusters so that they are threaded both ways which would keep the axle from moving.

Even some dealers have issues getting the belt running on the pulley correctly as I have seen a couple of tire changes done by dealers where the belt was almost off the pulley.

[Briorick]

Once you have the wheel in place and snugged down run a ratchiting tie down around the wheel and up to a foot peg or floorboard and tighten it up. You can now torque your wheel and it wont move. Good luck and ha ve fun. I already had a 36 mm socket and bought a 36mm combination wrench from Summit racing. Good quality and cheaper then local.

Great tips, thank you. Got my socket and wrenches, new tire, along with great videos, tips and tutorials. Now waiting for weather to cooperate to start the project, before our riding season starts here. SOON! :thumbup:

[Don60]

I was able to remove the rear tire without touching the adjusters (used duck tape to hold them in place). Walked the belt off, removed the brake rotor and pulley, had tire changed. On reinstalling, I made the mistake of putting belt back on before I installed the axle! Took a lot of wasted time to get axle back into place, should have followed directions from Finless Bob and walked belt back on after I installed the axle. Also, the belt did not go back into the same place, off about 3/16th towards the outside, even though I did not touch the adjusters. All jobs have a learning curve, lessons learned for the next time. Will loosen axle nut, adjust the belt and torque nut to specs.

[Peteoz]

Great tips, thank you. Got my socket and wrenches, new tire, along with great videos, tips and tutorials. Now waiting for weather to cooperate to start the project, before our riding season starts here. SOON! :thumbup:

Make sure you have some kind of breaker bar standing by to add a bit of leverage when releasing the axle nut, Briorick. It’s at 160lbs and requires a strong arm to break free.

Pete

[Briorick]

Make sure you have some kind of breaker bar standing by to add a bit of leverage when releasing the axle nut, Briorick. It’s at 160lbs and requires a strong arm to break free.

Pete



Thanks Pete....... I'm all set with a breaker bar. My most popular go to tool, and sometimes many "grunts" :yikes: when working on my F250, a breaker bar is a MUST at times. :2thumbs: