Another Rear Wheel Bearing question..... The BIG FUNKY NUT!

[Briorick]

Hey all, I am getting ready to have my rear wheel replaced and wanted to remove and replace all 3 rear bearings and seals. Not sure when the last they were checked or replaced from previous owners, so figured now would be a great start with 52k miles on it.

I have watched a few Youtube videos on replacing the bearings, pretty easy and straightforward task, but, my question is when reinstalling the BIG FUNKY looking NUT, does that need torqueing? And if so, to what specs. Nowhere have I found an answer to that.

AND, if anyone has any great tips, or how to retrofit something to remove that BIG NUT, I am all ears. One Youtuber ( Spyder Stuff ) made his own contraption by welding a small piece of Iron to a Bolt Head, which seemed to work pretty good when slotted into the Nut.

As always, Thanks in advance. Much appreciated.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hey all, I am getting ready to have my rear wheel replaced and wanted to remove and replace all 3 rear bearings and seals. Not sure when the last they were checked or replaced from previous owners, so figured now would be a great start with 52k miles on it.

I have watched a few Youtube videos on replacing the bearings, pretty easy and straightforward task, but, my question is when reinstalling the BIG FUNKY looking NUT, does that need torqueing? And if so, to what specs. Nowhere have I found an answer to that.

AND, if anyone has any great tips, or how to retrofit something to remove that BIG NUT, I am all ears. One Youtuber ( Spyder Stuff ) made his own contraption by welding a small piece of Iron to a Bolt Head, which seemed to work pretty good when slotted into the Nut.

As always, Thanks in advance. Much appreciated.

I read 99% + of the posts here since 2010 ..... the amount of REAR or front bearing failures are almost 0 ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

[Briorick]

I read 99% + of the posts here since 2010 ..... the amount of REAR or front bearing failures are almost 0 ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:


Thanks, Mike. That is great to hear. I have read where others have stated the same as you. Now thinking I'll just possibly give them a good checking over for any type of play or uneven wear. Either way, I'll have a set of bearings on hand, just in case. Thanks again. Much appreciated.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks, Mike. That is great to hear. I have read where others have stated the same as you. Now thinking I'll just possibly give them a good checking over for any type of play or uneven wear. Either way, I'll have a set of bearings on hand, just in case. Thanks again. Much appreciated.

PS ... on my 14 RT with 66,000 mi. I still have the OEM bearings ..... I have done a few tire changes .... and they look / feel good to me ..... Mike :thumbup:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

but, my question is when reinstalling the BIG FUNKY looking NUT, does that need torqueing? And if so, to what specs. Nowhere have I found an answer to that.

AND, if anyone has any great tips, or how to retrofit something to remove that BIG NUT, I am all ears.

The following will give you the answers you need/want.

Posts 7 & 8 here: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?141875-What-size-torque-wrenches-are-needed-for-working-on-2020-Spyder-RT-Ltd&highlight=axle+nut+torque

Posts 6 & 7 here: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?135878-Torque-axle-vs-Torque-nut&highlight=axle+nut+torque

Posts 4 & 5 here: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?137922-Axle-Nut-on-2016-RT&highlight=axle+nut+torque

And this thread: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?136733-How-to-loosen-axle-bolt&highlight=axle+nut+torque

[Bob L]

My rear wheel bearing failed last June on the way to Americade. (Ugh). 62,000 miles. Tire had been changed about 8,000 miles prior to that with no obvious issues. I think I will be more proactive in the future and change them at a lower mileage.

[Briorick]

Thanks for the links. I pretty much have the Axle Nut, and it's removal process covered. The Nut in question, and, now that I have a name for it, is the Ecru Nut on the rear rim itself ( sprocket side ). I have attached a picture of a rim to show the actual nut itself. The bearing is just beneath that. Looks to take a specific tool to remove that nut. Or a good improvised one.:thumbup: Not sure of the purpose of a nut designed as such, but it is what is, I suppose.

Sorry, I probably should have attached the picture earlier along with the posting. I wasn't sure of the "actual name" other than it's a funky looking nut that Spyder Stuff referred to it as.

Thanks again.

[Briorick]

My rear wheel bearing failed last June on the way to Americade. (Ugh). 62,000 miles. Tire had been changed about 8,000 miles prior to that with no obvious issues. I think I will be more proactive in the future and change them at a lower mileage.

I was thinking the same thing since I don't have a full history report on mine. Might as well check, and possibly change them out, while I'm changing out the tire. A little pre-Preventative Maintenance never hurts.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

My rear wheel bearing failed last June on the way to Americade. (Ugh). 62,000 miles. Tire had been changed about 8,000 miles prior to that with no obvious issues. I think I will be more proactive in the future and change them at a lower mileage.

Sorry to hear this ...... bearing failure is not common .... Exactly how / why did you know it occurred ..... and what was the Spyders reaction ..... thanks .... Mike :thumbup:

[Knizar]

Thanks for the links. I pretty much have the Axle Nut, and it's removal process covered. The Nut in question, and, now that I have a name for it, is the Ecru Nut on the rear rim itself ( sprocket side ). I have attached a picture of a rim to show the actual nut itself. The bearing is just beneath that. Looks to take a specific tool to remove that nut. Or a good improvised one.:thumbup: Not sure of the purpose of a nut designed as such, but it is what is, I suppose.

Sorry, I probably should have attached the picture earlier along with the posting. I wasn't sure of the "actual name" other than it's a funky looking nut that Spyder Stuff referred to it as.

Thanks again.

I do not believe that is a nut! It is just a backing spacer for the bearing to ride against. But I have been wrong (1) time before!
Good Luck......:thumbup:......Bill

[RayBJ]

"But I have been wrong (1) time before!"

Was that when you thought you were wrong and discovered you were actually correct? :dontknow::joke:

[Knizar]

You got that RIGHT! Ray, :ohyea:.......:2thumbs:.....Bill

[Bob L]

Sorry to hear this ...... bearing failure is not common .... Exactly how / why did you know it occurred ..... and what was the Spyders reaction ..... thanks .... Mike :thumbup:

It suddenly became very loud, like I was dragging an I-Beam down the road. I first thought something got caught underneath. By process of elimination, we determined it must be the bearing(s). The mechanic showed me that one came out in pieces and one took a lot of work to come out. Thankfully we were only about 30 miles from home, and not 150 miles, so we just poked along home and swapped the luggage over to the SUV for the rally. Dealer I use, Flamingo in Palmer, MA, was great. They were able to get it in shortly after we returned from Lake George.

Bob

[BajaRon]

Rear bearing failure. And front bearing failures for that matter. Are almost always due to an overly tight drive belt. Keep the belt in the lower 2/3's of the UPDATED tension spec. and your bearings will last a very long time.

If you have had a tire change lately. Check belt tension. Sometimes they don't set it back where it should be. Too tight and you probably won't go very far on a bearing set. If you blow out the rear wheel bearing. Count your blessings. The alternative is extremely expensive.

[Briorick]

I do not believe that is a nut! It is just a backing spacer for the bearing to ride against. But I have been wrong (1) time before!
Good Luck......:thumbup:......Bill

Yep, definitely a Nut!

Earlier, I spoke with a Tech from Lamonster and he confirmed it as such also, and the Special $100 Tool that is used to remove it. Roughly a $200 job if done in shop. Was glad I made the call, and thankful for all his input. I'm a little more all the knowledgeable. :clap:

Here is Spyder Stuff's youtube video ( @ 4:29 to be exact ) showing the Nut in question should anyone be interested to see.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juVK1ogc1BA&t=295s

[Knizar]

Yep, definitely a Nut!

Earlier, I spoke with a Tech from Lamonster and he confirmed it as such also, and the Special $100 Tool that is used to remove it. Roughly a $200 job if done in shop. Was glad I made the call, and thankful for all his input. I'm a little more all the knowledgeable. :clap:

Here is Spyder Stuff's youtube video ( @ 4:29 to be exact ) showing the Nut in question should anyone be interested to see.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juVK1ogc1BA&t=295s

Well Golly! Wrong #(2), Sure would like to SEE the outside of that Nut when you take it out,:nopic:, Sorry Rick, good thing you checked with someone that has been there.....:bowdown:....Bill

[Briorick]

Well Golly! Wrong #(2), Sure would like to SEE the outside of that Nut when you take it out,:nopic:, Sorry Rick, good thing you checked with someone that has been there.....:bowdown:....Bill

Well, #2 isn't so bad! I wasn't going to say "I told you so".....that wouldn't be nice....:roflblack:.
I'm just glad that I got some kind of confirmation for that Funky Nut. Felt like I was hitting a brick wall :banghead: looking for an answer.

Thanks again.

[Knizar]

Well, #2 isn't so bad! I wasn't going to say "I told you so".....that wouldn't be nice....:roflblack:.
I'm just glad that I got some kind of confirmation for that Funky Nut. Felt like I was hitting a brick wall :banghead: looking for an answer.

Thanks again.

I have changed out my rear spool at 10,000+ miles, but I did not go into removing bearings at that time, will look
into that further on next change. Did you get the torque #lbs for that goofy nut? Surely can't be to high.
Keep in Touch! Interested in your project.......:thumbup:....Bill

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I was thinking the same thing since I don't have a full history report on mine. Might as well check, and possibly change them out, while I'm changing out the tire. A little pre-Preventative Maintenance never hurts.

:agree: ............ and according to Bob L , His Spyder was still drivable ..... It is wise to give an in-depth BEARING check every time you have the wheels off .....jmho ....I remeber way back in 11 & 12 etc. lots of folks were changing out their BEARINGS at every tire change ..... Mike :thumbup:

[Briorick]

I have changed out my rear spool at 10,000+ miles, but I did not go into removing bearings at that time, will look
into that further on next change. Did you get the torque #lbs for that goofy nut? Surely can't be to high.
Keep in Touch! Interested in your project.......:thumbup:....Bill

Not yet. The search continues.

Although, the Lamonster Tech I spoke with earlier suggested I just ask the Tech changing out the tire, assuming it's a Spyder Tech of course.

I agree, after watching the youtube video, and how the Nut came off rather easily, it can't be Torqued too much. So hopefully I can get the specs when I have the new tire mounted. If not, I may just bite the bullet and let them do the bearing check / and replace if needed.

Maybe someone else would also know from previous bearing replacements. I'm finding it's a long shot, but worth a try.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Not yet. The search continues.

Although, the Lamonster Tech I spoke with earlier suggested I just ask the Tech changing out the tire, assuming it's a Spyder Tech of course.

I agree, after watching the youtube video, and how the Nut came off rather easily, it can't be Torqued too much. So hopefully I can get the specs when I have the new tire mounted. If not, I may just bite the bullet and let them do the bearing check / and replace if needed.

Maybe someone else would also know from previous bearing replacements. I'm finding it's a long shot, but worth a try.

I do believe this is what you are looking for! :2thumbs: I found it in the Drive System section of my 2014 RT Service Manual.

194456

[Knizar]

I do believe this is what you are looking for! :2thumbs: I found it in the Drive System section of my 2014 RT Service Manual.

194456

Thank you Idaho, That's pertinent information, 15ft #lbs, will try to etch that in my head for future reference.
........:thumbup:....Bill

[Briorick]

I do believe this is what you are looking for! :2thumbs: I found it in the Drive System section of my 2014 RT Service Manual.

194456

Yes Sir, Thank you.....that is the culprit! Mystery solved.:2thumbs:

Ironically, I was looking at 2014 Service Manuals online today, thinking YEP, I definitely need one. I love being a DIYer, when I can. My previous ride was a 2012 Honda 600 Silver Wing Trike, and I enjoyed tinkering with that as well. Only difference was.... I had a Service Manual.

Thank you once again....... you are the man! :bowdown:


p.s. Does it by chance state what tool is used for removing that Nut? Just curious if it does.

[JSRT]

I made a wrench for that nut the last time I had a wheel apart. I just used a piece of 1/4 plate steel - cut to fit into opposite grooves, welded to a piece of 1/2 square bar. The bar is maybe 8” long so a gentle snug won’t apply too much torque. Here’s a couple photos:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Ironically, I was looking at 2014 Service Manuals online today, thinking YEP, I definitely need one.
p.s. Does it by chance state what tool is used for removing that Nut? Just curious if it does.
The great feeling you get by being able to refer to a service manual is second only to that from the activity you enjoy with a woman! Go to www.canammanuals.com.

No tool is mentioned in the 2014 manual, but it is shown in the 2013 manual! This is just one example of many inconsistencies that exist in BRP's documentations, within a specific document and between successive years of documents.

The tool MSRP is $68.99 but you probably can't find one! I would try using a Channellock pliers. Just drop the jaws into the notches.

194459

[Peter Aawen]

.......

The tool MSRP is $68.99 but you probably can't find one! I would try using a Channellock pliers. Just drop the jaws into the notches.

....

Or you could try a few gentle taps with a a softish drift to loosen it enough to get it out; and a few taps the other way to tighten it up enough after putting it back in. ;) . But I'd suggest NOT using a cold chisel like that! :p

[EdMat]

If it only needs 15 ft/lbs torque a large set of needle nose pliers would probably work.

[Briorick]

The great feeling you get by being able to refer to a service manual is second only to that from the activity you enjoy with a woman! Go to www.canammanuals.com.

No tool is mentioned in the 2014 manual, but it is shown in the 2013 manual! This is just one example of many inconsistencies that exist in BRP's documentations, within a specific document and between successive years of documents.

The tool MSRP is $68.99 but you probably can't find one! I would try using a Channellock pliers. Just drop the jaws into the notches.

194459

Idaho, Thanks for the diagrams, and the canam manual link. Made sure I saved them all for future reference.

I did see on ebay there was such a tool listed, but I think for the price I will use my own ingenuity and invent one. Your channel lock suggestion sounds like it would work as well. I was thinking a piece of cross steel inserted across the slots and a Crescent Wrench. Seeing the nut is torqued so low it wouldn't take much effort to remove and reinstall it.


Glad to see the ingenuity of creative ideas being mentioned here. It's amazing what we can accomplish and invent when we want to save some bucks for ourselves! :thumbup: Along with your diagrams, those diagrams helped many of us, I'm sure.

Thanks again.

[Briorick]

I made a wrench for that nut the last time I had a wheel apart. I just used a piece of 1/4 plate steel - cut to fit into opposite grooves, welded to a piece of 1/2 square bar. The bar is maybe 8” long so a gentle snug won’t apply too much torque. Here’s a couple photos:


Great idea! This is something similar to Spyder Stuff's invention he made in his video ( @ approx 4:32 ) with the exception he welded a Bolt onto his steel piece to be able to use a ratchet. Such ingenuity!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juVK1ogc1BA&t=306s

Both great ideas.

[Bfromla]

The following will give you the answers you need/want.

Posts 7 & 8 here: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?141875-What-size-torque-wrenches-are-needed-for-working-on-2020-Spyder-RT-Ltd&highlight=axle+nut+torque

Posts 6 & 7 here: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?135878-Torque-axle-vs-Torque-nut&highlight=axle+nut+torque

Posts 4 & 5 here: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?137922-Axle-Nut-on-2016-RT&highlight=axle+nut+torque

And this thread: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?136733-How-to-loosen-axle-bolt&highlight=axle+nut+torque

& another when mine failed suspect from impact with large Road patch. More details in thread, definitely keeping some spare in hand considering parts delays as of recent.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?144398-GUESS-this-part

[Briorick]

Good Afternoon everyone. Just wanted to take a moment and Thank everyone for their contributions, input, and participation with my quest to find the answer to this Funky Nut.

Your input was invaluable :bowdown:, and we actually found out what, and how, to tackle ( with a little ingenuity ) this culprit should any of us need to.

Once again......... Thank You, All. Great Work! :thumbup:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Good Afternoon everyone. Just wanted to take a moment and Thank everyone for their input and participation with my quest to find the answer to this Funky Nut.

Your input was invaluable :bowdown:, and we actually found out what, and how, to tackle ( with a little ingenuity ) this culprit should any of us need to.

Once again......... Thank You, All. Great Work! :thumbup:

You're welcome! :thumbup:

[Freddy]

ebay item 121077395218 is the castellated socket that fits that nut perfectly.

[RICZ]

In situation like this, I have used a piece of steel flatstock cut to fit and applied a large Crescent Wrench for twisting. Cheap and easy - that's me.

[Briorick]

In situation like this, I have used a piece of steel flatstock cut to fit and applied a large Crescent Wrench for twisting. Cheap and easy - that's me.

Another "Cheap and Easy" here as well :thumbup:. That's exactly the method I was thinking myself. Keep it simple!

[Little Blue]

Another "Cheap and Easy" here as well :thumbup:. That's exactly the method I was thinking myself. Keep it simple!

I am glad to hear that you got the job done. Thank You for your Updates. .... : )