16 RT-L - wiring a modulating brake light?

[Hound]

I have a "Flash Strobe Controller Flasher Module for LED Brake Light" with two wires in and two wires out just like I used on my Vulcan Nomad. There I had it wired to a seperate 4LED strip and only tapped into the brake light system.
Looking at the RTL brake lights I'm not so sure it could be added to make the factory brake lights flash. Is there a way to just tap into them and add a seperate brake light to flash?
I've looked at the added brake lights available but they are not inexpensive and I'm kinda cheap,contrary to what my wife says.;)

[K80Shooter]

I took one similar to what you have and tied it into the Trunk Brake Light only. I did run a separate ground wire for it. I attached it under the passenger seat and ran it straight to the light. You can get it under the wire harness that runs to the trunk and then run it to the trunk brake light. I did this because some others reported problems if it was not done this way, your unit maybe not.

This is the one I installed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PSBSXD6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 I did purchase the cheaper one also (XP60) and installed it into my pickup truck.

[Hound]

I have this flasher
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01F4OKWSG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
and this light
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0028OQI8Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Now I find there isn't a large enough flat surface on the back of the RT.
Thinking about a bracket under the license plate and connecting to the trailer light connector.
Would have to disconnect it should I ever pull a trailer but that's no problem.

[K80Shooter]

I have this flasher
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01F4OKWSG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
and this light
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0028OQI8Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Now I find there isn't a large enough flat surface on the back of the RT.
Thinking about a bracket under the license plate and connecting to the trailer light connector.
Would have to disconnect it should I ever pull a trailer but that's no problem.

I would still run a separate ground for it, unless you are planning on removing the back panel I would also tap into the brake light wire going to the trunk brake light.

[Mikey]

I have this flasher
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01F4OKWSG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
and this light
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0028OQI8Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Now I find there isn't a large enough flat surface on the back of the RT.
Thinking about a bracket under the license plate and connecting to the trailer light connector.
Would have to disconnect it should I ever pull a trailer but that's no problem.

They have a third brake light that fits on the curved flat area at the top of the trunk on the rt! Most of the sponsor's carry it! I got one for my ride looks and works great! Showcrome comes to mind I think!!:dontknow:

[Hound]

My 2016 RT-L doesn't have a trunk brake light.
The accessory third brake lights are too expensive when I can do my own for way less.
The pic is a 'rough-in" nothing finished and just balancing in place. I can get wires from
the back side of the license plate up to the area above the left taillight but looking for the
correct brake light wire to tap into. Toward the bottom left side of the pic is the flasher
that needs to be wired in line as well.

[BertRemington]

Here's the pinout for the AMP SuperSeal 1.5mm 5-pin connectors on the rear light assemblies:

P1 Wh Brake
P2 Og Tail
P3 Pk/Bg Backup
P4 Bn/Ye Right Turn Gy/Pk Left Turn
P5 Bk Ground

I made jumper cables for my dual turn signals rather than Posi-Taps.
193614193615

[Hound]

This is the AMP 1.5mm 5-way that you mentioned and is it plug and play once assembled?

https://www.amazon.com/TE-Connectivity-AMP-Superseal-Electrical/dp/B084KZ9K35?th=1

[BertRemington]

Hound -- those are the correct connectors.

Answering your P&P question is more difficult because I don't know your tools.

You said two wires in (I assume Brake and Ground) and two wires out (I assume Flasher and Ground). And you said you like to keep costs low. So unless like me you want to leave your wiring harness modified, I suggest the use of Posi-Taps (https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI-TAP-pack-connectors-20-22/dp/B001MPW54G) or T-Taps (https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Self-Stripping-Electrical-Disconnect-Assortment/dp/B07WWV1T4C).

To fabricate the pictured jumper cable, I had the proper crimping and wire stripping tools, wire sheathing, adhesive heat shrink tubing, and heat gun. Plus months of experience wiring a friend's SCTA roadster as well as my vehicles. My jumpers were kinda overkill for the Spyder but hey I already the stuff.

Your proposed installation looks very neat and tidy so obviously you have the skills. If you have the tools then make jumpers otherwise save your money for another farkle and use taps.

[Hound]

I like those ideas. Those T-taps seem to be a better option than the 'scotch loks" used on bigger wires.
Yup, ground on each end and brake -in and lights - out on ends of the flasher. I like the 4 quick flashes
followed by four slow and then solid.