2020 RTL Seat strut barely holds the seat open - ideas?

[Iceman47]

Has anyone replaced the gas strut on their '20 or '21 RTL? Mine barely holds the seat open with nothing on it. I have a Butt Buffer and have to take it off everytime I fuel.
The original strut was shot when I got home with the Spyder brand new. How the dealership missed this is beyond me, as the tank was full. I didn't write down the info on the replacement strut or take measurements, but if no one has info on a stronger strut I'll start removing Tupperware.

[twocams]

I would look for a automotive strut. One that holds up a hood or rear door. Should be strong enough. Found at a good auto parts store.

[Woodaddict]

if you can take off one end or the other, should be a sticker on it with part #, to look up and match it

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Has anyone replaced the gas strut on their '20 or '21 RTL? Mine barely holds the seat open with nothing on it. I have a Butt Buffer and have to take it off everytime I fuel.
The original strut was shot when I got home with the Spyder brand new. How the dealership missed this is beyond me, as the tank was full. I didn't write down the info on the replacement strut or take measurements, but if no one has info on a stronger strut I'll start removing Tupperware.

I re-placed my seat strut ( for a different reason ) with a stiff rod .... works everytime, and will never fail .... I didn't have to drill the frame , there was / are two pushpins that can be re-moved and replaced with 5 (?) inch 1/4 dis. bolt .... then add the rod ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

[K80Shooter]

I agree that the stock strut on the 20-21 are not strong enough. I installed one of Dave's gel pads on mine and I now have the same problem. I have not looked into replacing it yet but I do see that happening in the near future.

[pidjones]

Just be careful to not get one that is too strong. Might damage the plastic seat structure.

[Mikey]

Some people on here turn me onto McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/lift-struts/ All you need is the dimensions of the old one. Made a big difference for my bike, fast turn around also.:2thumbs: Good luck

[WilcoJunoHotel]

I too am using a gel pad in the seat and of course the stock strut didn't support the extra weight. Too bad I didn't know that at the time I put it back together or I would have gone ahead and replaced the strut at the same time since I had it all apart.

I am planning to replace the strut at some piont but haven't had time to get into that yet so I have been using a piece of firm rubber that I wedge in between the left hand seat hinge and the frame crossmember. Works fine for fueling, etc.. The rubber piece that I have been using is big enough that I can store it right there under the seat.

If anyone does replace their strut, please share the new strut part number, where you got it, etc..

[joekeys]

I got one from www.suspaparts.com C16-20651 40lbs. It works great. Will hold seat up even with helmet on the seat.

[K80Shooter]

I got one from www.suspaparts.com C16-20651 40lbs. It works great. Will hold seat up even with helmet on the seat.

If this will fit the 2020 and up RTL I found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Camper-Tonneau-Supports-C16-20651-C1620651/dp/B07YGWTQF1/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_o-HBhAsEiwANqYhp3cvoKI6QdNxSr2Uz6U4TxAdEeEoaGGAFHcNh 3AKCgwcX3A2anZwhhoCOu0QAvD_BwE&hvadid=177626493095&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9011091&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=7089421719111430341&hvtargid=kwd-1502037989&hydadcr=7468_9586263&keywords=suspa+c16+20651&qid=1625596957&sr=8-5

I'll purchase this and forward the other to whom ever wants to pay half the cost plus postage to you. It's a lot less than what's listed on Suspaparts site. I just want to make sure it fits the 2020+ models. Your half would be $12.10 plus postage to you.

[K80Shooter]

If this will fit the 2020 and up RTL I found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Camper-Tonneau-Supports-C16-20651-C1620651/dp/B07YGWTQF1/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_o-HBhAsEiwANqYhp3cvoKI6QdNxSr2Uz6U4TxAdEeEoaGGAFHcNh 3AKCgwcX3A2anZwhhoCOu0QAvD_BwE&hvadid=177626493095&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9011091&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=7089421719111430341&hvtargid=kwd-1502037989&hydadcr=7468_9586263&keywords=suspa+c16+20651&qid=1625596957&sr=8-5

I'll purchase this and forward the other to whom ever wants to pay half the cost plus postage to you. It's a lot less than what's listed on Suspaparts site. I just want to make sure it fits the 2020+ models. Your half would be $12.10 plus postage to you.

Ok just forget this post, I just looked and this one will not work. What's on mine is a C16-35101 and it's not even listed on their website. I'm guessing that it is a dealer only item. I'll continue to remove mine and post back if I find anything that works for the newer 2020+ models.

[Iceman47]

Thanks to all who replied and suggestions for sources I hadn't thought of. My belt tensioner from Lamonster should arrive in the next couple of days, which will necessitate removing the same panels needed to access the strut and take measurements. If I find a replacement I'll be sure to post the info.

[K80Shooter]

Thanks to all who replied and suggestions for sources I hadn't thought of. My belt tensioner from Lamonster should arrive in the next couple of days, which will necessitate removing the same panels needed to access the strut and take measurements. If I find a replacement I'll be sure to post the info.

I ordered a couple of struts to try. If you order some make sure to get the ones with removable ends. The top end seems to be BRP specific but I could be wrong.

I also sent Suspa a email (that's who made the oem strut) asking if they had one a little stronger and explained my problem to them so we'll see if they respond.

If you can wait a couple more day's before ordering anything I'll know if what I ordered will work or not.

[K80Shooter]

I did hear back from Suspa today, it looks like getting anything from them is cost prohibitive. I will post back my findings on the one's that I have on order as soon as they arrive.

Here is the response from Suspa:

Jenny L. Walter <JWalter@us.suspa.com>
9:20 AM (6 hours ago)
to me

We only make that item for in that 18lb. force for BRP. We could make it in a higher force but it would be a new part number so you would need to determine how much higher you would like to move to. I even looked to see if we make that shock in that length with just threaded ends and we do not.

So it would be a one off, custom part. 1 piece = $160.00, 2-5 = $110.00 each

Lead time would be 3-4 weeks to build.

[WilcoJunoHotel]

Ok just forget this post, I just looked and this one will not work. What's on mine is a C16-35101 and it's not even listed on their website. I'm guessing that it is a dealer only item. I'll continue to remove mine and post back if I find anything that works for the newer 2020+ models.

Now that you have noted this, IIRC the strut rod on mine was not a spring/clip type connection at the top where it attaches to the seat - it is held by a screw. I actually broke the little plastic nib piece on the seat that the strut rod fits over while I was trying to remove the strut rod so that I could remove the seat. Just a guess but if the stock strut is 18 pounds as the guy at SUSPA stated, a 40 lb load might be enough force to break that nib just in routine seat operation. Would be an easy fix though: Just grind off the nib and replace it with a bushing and thru-bolt.

[WilcoJunoHotel]

Ok just forget this post, I just looked and this one will not work. What's on mine is a C16-35101 and it's not even listed on their website. I'm guessing that it is a dealer only item. I'll continue to remove mine and post back if I find anything that works for the newer 2020+ models.

I concur with the Suspa part number. I just checked mine: Clearly stamped on the body of the strut rod is Suspa, Made in USA, C16-35101

Mine has a ball socket and spring fitting at the bottom connection and a mounting hole at the top connection (to the seat). The screw hole measures about .3125" (5/16"). The overall length is roughly 6-3/4" and the travel appears to be about 2-3/8". My guess is that it will be difficult to find one with a ball socket fitting at one end and a hole fitting at the other; However, we might be able to eliminate the plastic nib on the seat and put a ball socket attachment there instead. If so, then it wouldn't be too big a deal for anyone that wants to be the guinea pig and figure it all out.

[K80Shooter]

Ok the parts that I ordered have came in but I was planning on using the old ends. I don't believe the lower end screws off, I have tried to no avail but also did not want to break it just in case I had to reuse it. So I have more parts on order that will be here sometime on Friday 7-9-21

Also I ordered a 20, 30 & 40 pound strut so I could tell which would work the best.

More to come. :popcorn:

[Mikey]

:popcorn:

[K80Shooter]

Ok I have what I think is a suitable work around. Regardless of what Suspa stated in a email to me I did find one that works great. Suspa C16-14870 it is a 30# strut. I also was able to get the bottom and top ends off of the old strut so you can simply just use them if you want to.

I did replace the top link with another one which gave me about a 1/4" more lift at the stud which translated to a good bit of lift at the front of the seat. I like this better as you will have a little more room to fill it with gas.

Here's the best price that I found and as always with them I received them the next day. I'm sure this will vary depending on where you are located. Freight was a little under $8.00 so that also is reasonable.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1374 Part # 9416K14 in 30# You can choose another if you wish but it might break the plastic stud if there's too much pressure on it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1376 The eyelet end that I used is a 6465K26 it is plastic but works great. You can always use the old one.

Here's on showing the extra length I got with the new eyelet end.
190978

Here's one showing the new strut installed.
190979

Here's one of just the new eyelet
190980

Here's one of the seat lifted
190981

[K80Shooter]

Sorry for all the pics being sideways.

[WilcoJunoHotel]

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1374 Part # 9416K14 in 30# You can choose another if you wish but it might break the plastic stud if there's too much pressure on it.


For some odd reason, that link goes to a "how to" page. I got to the page by entering the part number (9416K14) in their search block.

The other link worked fine.

Thanks for posting this. I will likely order this as well.

[Mikey]

Great to hear McMaster came threw for you!!:2thumbs:

[Iceman47]

Thanks for the info K80. My research had resulted in the same number for the strut from McMaster-Carr. But hadn't thought about the eyelet, as I was going to use the one from the factory strut, but the extra lift will be nice.
For those wishing to replace their strut, the ball end comes off, but with concerted effort. I clamped the end in a vise, wrapped the strut with some tape, them gripped it with a pliers (water pump) and twisted. It will finally break loose.
Total for strut, eyelet, shipping and IL tax came to $27.56. Should receive it this coming Tuesday. I can't wait to see if this works.
P.S. A rather unscientific procedure using a digital bathroom scale showed 16.7 lbs of force needed the close the factory strut.

[K80Shooter]

For some odd reason, that link goes to a "how to" page. I got to the page by entering the part number (9416K14) in their search block.

The other link worked fine.

Thanks for posting this. I will likely order this as well.

Did you scroll down on the page? :dontknow: It should have been farther down but as long as you found it that's all that matters. :cheers:

[Jetfixer]

Why not get a new one under warranty?

[K80Shooter]

Why not get a new one under warranty?

There's nothing wrong with the original strut. When you start adding things like the butt buffer, gel inserts and such is when the problem starts. Just replacing it with the stock strut would accomplish nothing.

[WilcoJunoHotel]

Why not get a new one under warranty?

Adding to what K80shooter noted, the stock strut is only about 15-20 pounds force which barely holds up the OEM seat so adding a gel seat insert (what I did) adds weight which renders the stock strut incapable of holding the seat up when filling gas tank and checking oil.

[WilcoJunoHotel]

I ordered McMaster Carr PN 9416K11 (30# force) which is a little bit longer than the stock one but not quite as beefy in body and rod diameter.

Installed it today using the OEM "ends" and it seems to work fine :ohyea: - holds up the seat with no problem but it is not so forceful that the seat pops up on it's own so I think I have about the right force (30#).

BTW, to unscrew the factory OEM "ends", it helps to place the strut in a vise using plastic vise pads like these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FT2QTDA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) so you don't damage the strut (in case you need it later). The eyelet end on mine took some force to unscrew but the ball socket end came right off.

You also don't need to remove anything but the passenger seat to gain access. A long narrow screwdriver wedged "just so" will release the clip at the ball socket end and it comes right out.

Thanks to K80shooter for finding the source for this strut rod. Might even be able to use one even longer but you are limited to how long it can be based on the travel of the strut and the fixed location of the ball end.

191043
191044

New strut is the smaller one in the pics above. I figured the weak link in the OEM setup is the plastic nib on the seat hinge so going with a slightly smaller shock rod was not going to make any difference - if anything breaks/fails, it will be that plastic nib not a smaller steel shock rod. And, it isn't exactly a critical component.

191045

[Iceman47]

I just received my strut from McMaster-Carr. I ordered 9416K14, which is exactly the same dimensions and stroke as the original. I also ordered the 6465K26 eyelet which does indeed open the seat farther.
My unscientific digital bathroom scale test indicated 43.7 lbs. to close it. I'm sure that will become some what less with use.
It appears that either WJH's part or mine will work.
I know I'm happy!
The new strut shows a Suspa part # C16-14870.

[K80Shooter]

I ordered McMaster Carr PN 9416K11 (30# force) which is a little bit longer than the stock one but not quite as beefy in body and rod diameter.

Installed it today using the OEM "ends" and it seems to work fine :ohyea: - holds up the seat with no problem but it is not so forceful that the seat pops up on it's own so I think I have about the right force (30#).

BTW, to unscrew the factory OEM "ends", it helps to place the strut in a vise using plastic vise pads like these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FT2QTDA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) so you don't damage the strut (in case you need it later). The eyelet end on mine took some force to unscrew but the ball socket end came right off.

You also don't need to remove anything but the passenger seat to gain access. A long narrow screwdriver wedged "just so" will release the clip at the ball socket end and it comes right out.

Thanks to K80shooter for finding the source for this strut rod. Might even be able to use one even longer but you are limited to how long it can be based on the travel of the strut and the fixed location of the ball end.

191043
191044

New strut is the smaller one in the pics above. I figured the weak link in the OEM setup is the plastic nib on the seat hinge so going with a slightly smaller shock rod was not going to make any difference - if anything breaks/fails, it will be that plastic nib not a smaller steel shock rod. And, it isn't exactly a critical component.

191045

You should have gotten the 9416K14 in 30lb, it's exactly like the oem one. I also got the 9416K11 just in case the other one didn't work but I think either one will work much better than the 18# factory one.

Glad it worked out for you. :2thumbs:

[K80Shooter]

@WilcoJunoHotel Did the extra length in that strut increase the seat lift a noticeable amount? I know I like mine a lot better with the extra height.

[WilcoJunoHotel]

Here is a pic - I placed the bottom edge of the ruler along the blue body panel piece just forward of where it meets the black body panel piece.

191138

[K80Shooter]

Here is a pic - I placed the bottom edge of the ruler along the blue body panel piece just forward of where it meets the black body panel piece.

191138

I'd call that 11-1/2" close enough for me. I'll check mine like that to compare but it looks like you have plenty of room now.

[DanDanTMM]

I'd call that 11-1/2" close enough for me. I'll check mine like that to compare but it looks like you have plenty of room now.

Thanks guys! I want some extra lift in my seat and didn't want to move my AirHawk every time I filled up. Just order myself a new strut and eyelet. :yes:

[Peteoz]

I re-placed my seat strut ( for a different reason ) with a stiff rod .... works everytime, and will never fail .... I didn't have to drill the frame , there was / are two pushpins that can be re-moved and replaced with 5 (?) inch 1/4 dis. bolt .... then add the rod ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

Yeah, I think that will be my solution……. Thanks Mike:thumbup:

Pete

[bikerbillone]

I'm with jetfixer, I got a new one under warranty, a PIA with dealer dealings, but probably worth the aggravation.

Bill Wms
Sebring Florida
2020 RTL

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Yeah, I think that will be my solution……. Thanks Mike:thumbup:

Pete

Pete, look in my Album " gas strut " re-placement " if you click on the pic it will enlarge and tell what I did ..... Mike :thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks guys! I want some extra lift in my seat and didn't want to move my AirHawk every time I filled up. Just order myself a new strut and eyelet. :yes:

Look at my Album - gas strut re-placement - this is how I REMOVED the OEM strut so I could OPEN the seat about 14 inches higher ..... it makes " Brake fluid " checking MUCH easier .... Also check my post #4 ..... Mike :thumbup:

[K80Shooter]

Look at my Album - gas strut re-placement - this is how I REMOVED the OEM strut so I could OPEN the seat about 14 inches higher ..... it makes " Brake fluid " checking MUCH easier .... Mikle

Pete's seat is very different from the one-piece seat in the older RT's but the added height that he will gain will help in fueling the tank.

[Peteoz]

Pete's seat is very different from the one-piece seat in the older RT's but the added height that he will gain will help in fueling the tank.

It will be interesting to see just what Daylong have done to the drivers seat to give me a little more seat height and heavy duty suspension, K80. I told them they could do whatever they liked to the rear seat, as it is a spare, so they may have reshaped it to compensate for the thicker drivers seat. They can’t move the drivers seat back due to the hinges and shape, so I have to use my stock drivers backrest in the rear seat hole. It’s a “brave new world”,:2thumbs:

I do like Mike’s idea of a rod, rather than a gas strut. Perhaps I can find some way of attaching the rod on a swivel to the underside of the seat, so it props automatically when I lift the seat. A little more room under the seat would be welcome too, but all that is speculation until I see/test the Daylong seat:dontknow:

Pere

[KX5062]

I've grown tired of fighting with the seat on my 2020 RTL too, so I'll try the K80 method.

Thanks, Shooter for the part numbers. I've ordered them and will post up my results and observations. ;)

[KX5062]

Okay, I got and installed the parts. They work well, nothing super dramatic, it just works. The seat will now lift on its own and stay up when fueling, which it never did. Adding the plastic tip vs the OEM pot metal bracket tip is a nice extra touch. It does lift the seat slightly higher and thus makes fueling easier. Thanks again, Shooter, for taking the lead in this fix.

[latino4decker]

Thank you, very valuable information @K80Shooter! :clap:
My parts are on order to make this fix.
Happy Thanksgiving!

Huey

[AZviejo]

Thanks to all who replied and suggestions for sources I hadn't thought of. My belt tensioner from Lamonster should arrive in the next couple of days, which will necessitate removing the same panels needed to access the strut and take measurements. If I find a replacement I'll be sure to post the info.

I found it unnecessary to pull off any panels to get the strut off. I ordered the replacement strut . referenced elsewhere in the thread from McMaster Carr. after it came I removed the worthless one this way. First I removed the back seat back pad. Then removed the rear seat. At this point the top of the strut is visible. I removed the 8mm screw holding the top of the strut and removed it from the plastic pin on the front seat. I now was able to flip the front seat all the way over into the rear seat space. now looking down, one can see the bottom of the strut mounted on the ball pin below. using a long skinny screwdriver, i slipped the blade into the slot on the back of the ball clamp and pulled the spring clip away from the back of the strut and easily pried the mount off the ball and pulled it out from the top. putting the new one in was this procedure done in reverse.

sure beats having to remove any Tupperware. Just have to mess with the seats. Just need an 8mm wrench, a long screwdriver with a skinny blade, and a flashlight. I hope this helps any of you fine folks out there. If it helps even one, i'm a happy old man!

Mark

[Peter Aawen]

I found it unnecessary to pull off any panels to get the strut off. I ordered the replacement strut . referenced elsewhere in the thread from McMaster Carr. after it came I removed the worthless one this way. First I removed the back seat back pad. Then removed the rear seat. At this point the top of the strut is visible. I removed the 8mm screw holding the top of the strut and removed it from the plastic pin on the front seat. I now was able to flip the front seat all the way over into the rear seat space. now looking down, one can see the bottom of the strut mounted on the ball pin below. using a long skinny screwdriver, i slipped the blade into the slot on the back of the ball clamp and pulled the spring clip away from the back of the strut and easily pried the mount off the ball and pulled it out from the top. putting the new one in was this procedure done in reverse.

sure beats having to remove any Tupperware. Just have to mess with the seats. Just need an 8mm wrench, a long screwdriver with a skinny blade, and a flashlight. I hope this helps any of you fine folks out there. If it helps even one, i'm a happy old man!

Mark

:oldpost: ALWAYS check the date of the thread & posts before replying Mark, ESPECIALLY that of the first post in the thread AND the date of the last few posts in the thread - your info certainly might be helpful to others searching in the future, so thanks for that :thumbup: Buuut, I doubt it'll actually benefit Iceman now, seeing that he posted what you quoted almost a year ago, so he's probably waaayy past pulling those panels ;)

[AZviejo]

:oldpost: ALWAYS check the date of the thread & posts before replying Mark, ESPECIALLY that of the first post in the thread AND the date of the last few posts in the thread - your info certainly might be helpful to others searching in the future, so thanks for that :thumbup: Buuut, I doubt it'll actually benefit Iceman now, seeing that he posted what you quoted almost a year ago, so he's probably waaayy past pulling those panels ;)

Sorry, im a n00b here.

[FINFAN3DP]

Why not get a new one under warranty?

I just did this recently. They fixed the seat one and the trunk one. Both work great now, and didn't cost me a dime. Now I have to get her back in there for this new recall, and have them install the Belt Tensioner I just bought from Lamonster.

[chipveres]

Has anyone replaced the gas strut on their '20 or '21 RTL? Mine barely holds the seat open with nothing on it. I have a Butt Buffer and have to take it off everytime I fuel.
The original strut was shot when I got home with the Spyder brand new. How the dealership missed this is beyond me, as the tank was full. I didn't write down the info on the replacement strut or take measurements, but if no one has info on a stronger strut I'll start removing Tupperware.

As usual, I have a different approach to the problem. I just disconnected the top of the strut and left everything else in place. Put the screw back in the plastic hinge so it doesn't wind up in a tire. The seat now folds back until it hits the trunk, but that's no problem. Eventually something else will motivate me to take the plastic off the left side and I will completely remove the strut.

Chip
2020 RTL
"Stella by Starlight"

EDIT: When I did this, I had the passenger seat off for other repairs. With the pax seat back on, the driver's seat only opens about 12 inches. I cut a segment of old broom handle to hold it open during refueling. I stored the handle in the organizer at the back of the frunk between uses.

[Adventurer]

As usual, I have a different approach to the problem. I just disconnected the top of the strut and left everything else in place. Put the screw back in the plastic hinge so it doesn't wind up in a tire. The seat now folds back until it hits the trunk, but that's no problem. Eventually something else will motivate me to take the plastic off the left side and I will completely remove the strut.

Chip
2020 RTL
"Stella by Starlight"
I put the external spring on mine and it works fine but I think I may try what Chip did, why not get it completely out of the way.

[USAF]

I ordered the replacement strut . referenced elsewhere in the thread from McMaster Carr.

What is the part number for the one You ordered ?

[bikerbillone]

Dealer replaced mine free, but it might be less of a hassle to buy one and install it. That's what I would do
if I did a do over. Sometimes it's a pain with dealers, and who knows if the dealer replacement is gonna last?

[WingmanRT]

I followed someone's (can't remember who) advice from this forum. We had two 2020 RTs with this problem.

1.) removed the panels,
2.) took out the strut,
3.) wound a compression spring (purchased beforehand - you want one heavy enough to put pressure on the strut fully extended, but not so heavy as to not allow the strut to compress almost all of the way down. Finding the right compression spring was more art than science. Try Ace hardware. ) around the extension arm of the strut and
4.) replaced the strut and panels.
Works like a champ. Cost about $4. (and and hour or two of my time).

Steve O. from Honda of Winston-Salem replaced one of ours (using an ice-pick-like tool with a 90 degree bend at the very end) in about 30 seconds. He removed the two outside panels, unscrewed the the top bolt of the strut, stuck the pick in one of the slots in the black plastic panel under the outer Tupperware (avoiding taking off the black plastic panel), used the pick to pull the clip holding the strut in, pulled out the strut, replaced it, replaced all the panels and did it in less time than it took me to type this.

[Davgill2002]

Thank you for this thread. I ordered the suggested shock & eye kit for my 2023 S2S.

[Escorial]

2020 RTL Riders seat (not staying up) Passenger seat removal questions

Bike has 1,700 miles on ii. I noticed that the rider's seat will not stay up when filling gas tank. Could temperatures affect this?

I can not even see how to remove the riders seat nor the passengers one. They are the heated ones. Any clear pix or videos on how to do this?

From what I can see the ram is on the left side and goes down into the chassis but do not know where?

Also I have read that you may be better off getting a replacement ram for the riders seat from a auto parts store? Anyone have a part number for a replacement ram?

My bike is still under the extended warranty to there is a $50 deductible, if I had the ram replaced with a Can am oem one would the replacement be any better?

I can see the ram (see pix)

[chipveres]

A couple of disparate suggestions: We use 9 inches cut off an old broomstick and stored in the left saddlebag. Just prop the seat open when fueling. Replacement gas springs are available from McMaster-Carr. I took a quick look at their prices and it seems like you could save money by dealing with them. Also you could opt for "next strongest" rather than a direct replacement. Where the strut goes becomes obvious when you take the left side panels off the cycle.

To remove the pax seat, start by removing the pivot bolts at the rear of the driver's seat. Now that you have a clear field of action, you can barely see two plastic clips that hold down the front of the pax seat. Push them gently to the rear while lifting up on the front edge of the seat. It's hard to see and nearly impossible to photograph because everything is black on black. Having once seen it, you will discover that it is possible to remove the pax seat by merely opening the driver's seat without totally removing it.

[Escorial]

Thanks

[Bob L]

Mine did the same thing (I have since bought a Corbin seat). BUT before that I bought this size spring (see photo). You unhook one end of the seat piston, push the spring down over the piston and reconnect the piston... and the seat will stay up while fueling! I cannot take credit for this idea, I got it here on the Spyder Lovers message board!

203268

[chipveres]

Mine did the same thing (I have since bought a Corbin seat). BUT before that I bought this size spring (see photo). You unhook one end of the seat piston, push the spring down over the piston and reconnect the piston... and the seat will stay up while fueling! I cannot take credit for this idea, I got it here on the Spyder Lovers message board!

203268
That's a capital idea and easy to install as well.

[kamper]

I did the spring also. Best 5 bucks spent in a while.

[Edspyderrt2020]

Ok I have what I think is a suitable work around. Regardless of what Suspa stated in a email to me I did find one that works great. Suspa C16-14870 it is a 30# strut. I also was able to get the bottom and top ends off of the old strut so you can simply just use them if you want to.

I did replace the top link with another one which gave me about a 1/4" more lift at the stud which translated to a good bit of lift at the front of the seat. I like this better as you will have a little more room to fill it with gas.

Here's the best price that I found and as always with them I received them the next day. I'm sure this will vary depending on where you are located. Freight was a little under $8.00 so that also is reasonable.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1374 Part # 9416K14 in 30# You can choose another if you wish but it might break the plastic stud if there's too much pressure on it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1376 The eyelet end that I used is a 6465K26 it is plastic but works great. You can always use the old one.

Here's on showing the extra length I got with the new eyelet end.
190978

Here's one showing the new strut installed.
190979

Here's one of just the new eyelet
190980

Here's one of the seat lifted
190981

Great news! Does the ball end come on that strut?

[pegasus1300]

I found one at McMaster Carr that fit exactly but was like a 40 or 50 LB strut. The seat would jump up almost on its own. Don't remember the part # and this was on a 2012 RTL anyway. I 'm sure you can find a stronger one at McMaster Carr

[vtrider]

I did order and receive the 30 LB gas spring from McMaster-Carr P/N 9416K142 for my seat on my STS and it looks like it will work. However, I wanted to see if the 20 LB gas spring P/N 9416K141 will be all that I need, so I have that one on order as well.

[bikerbillone]

Yes, 2020 RTL seat struts are a PIA. Had mine replaced under warranty, now that one has failed. I'm done, I just use a prop to keep life simple. Gee whiz, this could not have been rocket science for BRP.

[ThreeWheels]

Ok I have what I think is a suitable work around. Regardless of what Suspa stated in a email to me I did find one that works great. Suspa C16-14870 it is a 30# strut. I also was able to get the bottom and top ends off of the old strut so you can simply just use them if you want to.

I did replace the top link with another one which gave me about a 1/4" more lift at the stud which translated to a good bit of lift at the front of the seat. I like this better as you will have a little more room to fill it with gas.

Here's the best price that I found and as always with them I received them the next day. I'm sure this will vary depending on where you are located. Freight was a little under $8.00 so that also is reasonable.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1374 Part # 9416K14 in 30# You can choose another if you wish but it might break the plastic stud if there's too much pressure on it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1376 The eyelet end that I used is a 6465K26 it is plastic but works great. You can always use the old one.

Here's on showing the extra length I got with the new eyelet end.
190978

Here's one showing the new strut installed.
190979

Here's one of just the new eyelet
190980

Here's one of the seat lifted
190981

Hey, Thanks so much for this. I tried the helper spring approach. It worked fine on my trunk, but the minute I added a spring to the seat, the spring started hitting the bodywork.
I just ordered the 30 lb strut.
Again, thank you so very much.

[safecracker]

I installed the spring over my OEM shock. Works great.