Vibrations at 4200 RPM on 2020 RT??

[GaryRT]

I'm new here, and this is my first post. Hope I do everything correctly.
I have a new 2020 RT LTD. I say new because it was still in the crate with a demo status. I bought it 6 weeks ago with zero miles. I like it a lot better than the 2011 RT I traded in. The ride, handling, and features are great.

My group did a ride from San Antonio, in south central Texas, to Big Bend. in west Texas, which is about 365 miles. We toured a couple of days, and when I started it up for the ride that day, got an error code and the parking brake would not release. Tried a few more times on the computer, and it released, but then got a different error code for the transmission. After calling the dealer, I was told that it was not actually a problem with the transmission, but with the computer's inability to communicate with it. It would be OK to ride back home with the warning beeping sounding continuously. It was very annoying for the 360 miles, but made it back to my house OK. Now had 1420 miles on it. Next day took it to the dealer, and while showing him the error messages, guess what. It went into limp home mode. If it is going to go into limp home mode, the dealer parking lot is the very best place to do it. Guess what else. The computer module comes from the factory in a large box because it is attached to the windshield mount. No, we don't know why. Only BRP knows... I tell you all this to recommend that you don't take a new ride into the mountains until you have a few thousand miles on it.

But I do have a question for you more experienced riders. At about 4200 RPM I can definitely feel a vibration. It does not jar one's teeth, but it is definitely there and is enough to be annoying. It can be felt in the handle bars and also by placing one's hand on the chassis. The dealer has adjusted the belt tension, and now, after a test ryde, says that he can feel nothing out of the ordinary. However, the vibration is still there. So, my question is, is that vibration "ordinary" and to be expected? Has anyone else experienced this? If so, was there a fix?

Thanks in advance for any help/info you can give me.

Gary

[Little Blue]

:coffee: Well first off, I enjoyed reading your post and thought it was very helpful.

As for the vibration, a person would think that it would be the drive belt.
Some dealers are having a hard time getting a good understanding of the drive belt issues. The test equipment that BRP requires/recommends is probably a little pricey.

My local dealer has been somewhat helpful and finally got my Spyder drive belt to run smoothly.
You know what they say, take it back to the Dealer and ask them to give the belt a good look.

Some people have installed a belt damper and this may help. I did not have to go to a damper.

By the way, BRP is/has been somewhat difficult about the belt issues.

Are you sure that the vibration is coming from the belt?
Hopefully your Dealer can get it right.

[Peter Aawen]

If you/the dealer don't think it's the belt, then regarding those vibrations, just on the off chance, maybe you should check your tire pressures?? :dontknow:

Because the OE spec Kendas have been known to be 'just a wee tad problematic', it might be that too liitle or too much air in any of them is giving you a bit of vibration due to a 'less than ideal' feature in their construction that overly deforms at or around a certain speed; maybe one or more just isn't quite balanced properly (many have been found to be impossible to balance! :rolleyes: ); the tread layers &/or patterns haven't been applied correctly; or one or more of the tires may even be enlarging or 'throwing out' their tread or a portion of their tread or sidewalls once a certain speed of rotation is reached.... :dontknow: All of those possibilities & more have produced similar vibrations &/or greater concerns for more than just a couple of other new Spyder owners! :shocked:

I haven't checked to see what the recommended pressures are for the Kendas on 2020 RT's, but going off earlier models pressure requirements, I'd expect they'd need something in the vicinity of 17 psi up front & 28 for the rear, but not be 'ideal' with anything over about 20 psi up front or 30 psi, maybe 32 on the rear if you are really loading your Spyder - and regardless of the actual pressure or tires you are running, the fronts should ideally be within about 1/2 a psi of each other too. ;)

There are quite a few other things that might contribute to this sort of vibration too: discs; wheel run-out; mis-alignment of the tires &/or belt; dodgy suspension components; and the list goes on.... but I'd check those OE spec Kendas first, especially the fronts; and even if it doesn't appear to be them, it might pay to see if you can borrow a set of tires that definitely DON'T produce vibrations during use! Quite a few have chased all sorts of other things for years & many dollars, only to find the eventual resolution was simply to toss the OE spec Kendas! :banghead:

[CloverHillCrawler]

So that vibrator that somebody is holding to my left leg and belt guard at 75-80 mph is actually the tires? 15 and 28 psi on the tires as stated in the manual. I think the belt may actually be slipping during this time.

The vibration that is felt is very similar if not identical to when my jet ski's pump cavitates (loss of load on the shaft due to air going through pump and causing the drivetrain to vibrate).

[Mikey]

I'm new here, and this is my first post. Hope I do everything correctly.
I have a new 2020 RT LTD. I say new because it was still in the crate with a demo status. I bought it 6 weeks ago with zero miles. I like it a lot better than the 2011 RT I traded in. The ride, handling, and features are great.

My group did a ride from San Antonio, in south central Texas, to Big Bend. in west Texas, which is about 365 miles. We toured a couple of days, and when I started it up for the ride that day, got an error code and the parking brake would not release. Tried a few more times on the computer, and it released, but then got a different error code for the transmission. After calling the dealer, I was told that it was not actually a problem with the transmission, but with the computer's inability to communicate with it. It would be OK to ride back home with the warning beeping sounding continuously. It was very annoying for the 360 miles, but made it back to my house OK. Now had 1420 miles on it. Next day took it to the dealer, and while showing him the error messages, guess what. It went into limp home mode. If it is going to go into limp home mode, the dealer parking lot is the very best place to do it. Guess what else. The computer module comes from the factory in a large box because it is attached to the windshield mount. No, we don't know why. Only BRP knows... I tell you all this to recommend that you don't take a new ride into the mountains until you have a few thousand miles on it.

But I do have a question for you more experienced riders. At about 4200 RPM I can definitely feel a vibration. It does not jar one's teeth, but it is definitely there and is enough to be annoying. It can be felt in the handle bars and also by placing one's hand on the chassis. The dealer has adjusted the belt tension, and now, after a test ryde, says that he can feel nothing out of the ordinary. However, the vibration is still there. So, my question is, is that vibration "ordinary" and to be expected? Has anyone else experienced this? If so, was there a fix?

Thanks in advance for any help/info you can give me.

Gary

Maybe have the front wheels balanced, just for kicks. Are they cupping?

[knobby]

On my 2021 RTL, tire sticker is under the seat and states 20 front and 28 rear (no tolerance given!)

190159

[ricford]

I just replaced tires all around, all Vredestein. The dealer aired the front tires to 20 and the rear to 28. So, I guess the tag is correct.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I just replaced tires all around, all Vredestein. The dealer aired the front tires to 20 and the rear to 28. So, I guess the tag is correct.

The dealer Tech didn't check to see what tires you have now and used the PSI's for the KENDA tires .... Auto tires don't work BEST at higher PSI's .... So Please lower the PSI's to 15 -17 front and 18 rear ..... you and your Spyder will be much happier after you do this ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

[Piratezz]

agree with Mike, the pressures he gives, makes the ride way, way better.....15 psi when not fully loaded front, and rear 18, this will make you smile all the way

[Lew L]

The dealer Tech didn't check to see what tires you have now and used the PSI's for the KENDA tires .... Auto tires don't work BEST at higher PSI's .... So Please lower the PSI's to 15 -17 front and 18 rear ..... you and your Spyder will be much happier after you do this ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

......... +1.......