Bought a Primo 6x12 trailer today.

[Snoking1127]

So today I bought 6.x12 foot Primo aluminum trailer for hauling the Spyder between Arizona and Washington State. I wanted the model with the enclosed sides, however they did not have one in stock. I will enclose myself at sum point most likely. Dry weight of the trailer is 600 lbs and GVWR is 2990 lbs with 3500 torsion axle and 15" radial tires and mag wheels. I settled for a steel rim spare tire. Arizona to my surprise for $172 is providing a life time registration/license plate. I well have to work out some blockage or pre ramps to load the Spyder as the bi-fold ramp is not long enough. We did a test on a 6x10 with some 2x6's and cranking the tongue up. I ordered this 60"L x 24.5"D x 20.5"H chest box to go in front the Spyder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MK4F6S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am also looking to put one of those angled A-Frame boxes on the front frame. Going to work on raising the spare tire up a bit first. It is pretty low to the ground.

I also ordered these tie downs for the front wheels and may do that for the rear tire also.https://www.lowes.com/pd/Erickson-Wheel-Chock-and-Strap-Kit/1002696212

I will provide "build" pictures as I go along. Chris

[Snoking1127]

PRIMO TRAILERS

6 X 12 Utility Trailers
Torsion Sure Lube Axle - Best suspension on the market - 5 year warranty from manufacturer

TIG Welded Frame Is Better Than MIG Welding - Less heat and cleaner welds - easy maintenance & prevents rust

Stainless Steel Hardware - Used wherever possible! Primo uses the most stainless steel fasteners of any aluminum utility trailer on the market.

Radial 15" Tires - Radials are proven to last longer and provide for a safer ride.

Aluminum Mag Wheels - Aluminum mags will not rust & look awesome!

All Recessed L.E.D Lights - Last longer & will not break as easy as standard lights especially when they are protected inside the frame.

Tubular A-Frame Tongue - Tongue is much stronger and allows wiring to be inside enclosed tube frame

Swing Up Roller Jack - makes it easy for you to maneuver your light weight trailer around the driveway and store when ready to travel.

Bi-Fold Gate - Lower profile gate for less wind resistance and allows for Kayak/Canoe carrying across the top of the trailer.

Stainless Steel ADJUSTABLE ramp clamp - Makes our PRIMO bi-fold ramp tight and secure so it does not rattle. Can be adjusted over the years to tighten.

Aluminum Extruded Decking Standard - Lighter and lasts virtually forever. Won't rot like wood will. Plus just looks a lot better.

PRIMO designed for the consumer - if you bend or dent a fender, side kit or ramp you can easily replace with simple tools (don't need to bring to welder).

SPECIFICATIONS:

Deck Length: 12'

Deck Width: 6'

Solid side height: NONE, 16" or 24"

Rail height: 12" , 18" or 26"

G.V.W.R: 2990LBS

Suspension: 3500 lbs Torsion Axle

Tires: ST205/75R15 DOT

Coupler Rating: 2" 3,500lbs

Net Payload: 2340-2390lbs

Wheels; 15" - 5 Lug Bolt Pattern

Enclosed L.E.D Lighting System: DOT Approved

Frame: 3"x3" Tube Framing

Chrome Lug Nuts

Stainless Safety Chains: 24"

Stainless Steel Hardware

[Bfromla]

Sounds good:thumbup: looking forward to pics when get all set up.

[Hoginedgewood]

190009
Drop/raise hitch?

[always young]

So today I bought 6.x12 foot Primo aluminum trailer for hauling the Spyder between Arizona and Washington State. I wanted the model with the enclosed sides, however they did not have one in stock. I will enclose myself at sum point most likely. Dry weight of the trailer is 600 lbs and GVWR is 2990 lbs with 3500 torsion axle and 15" radial tires and mag wheels. I settled for a steel rim spare tire. Arizona to my surprise for $172 is providing a life time registration/license plate. I well have to work out some blockage or pre ramps to load the Spyder as the bi-fold ramp is not long enough. We did a test on a 6x10 with some 2x6's and cranking the tongue up. I ordered this 60"L x 24.5"D x 20.5"H chest box to go in front the Spyder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MK4F6S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am also looking to put one of those angled A-Frame boxes on the front frame. Going to work on raising the spare tire up a bit first. It is pretty low to the ground.

I also ordered these tie downs for the front wheels and may do that for the rear tire also.https://www.lowes.com/pd/Erickson-Wheel-Chock-and-Strap-Kit/1002696212

I will provide "build" pictures as I go along. Chris


Snoking, you will find that you don't need (can't use) the rear set of chocks for the front wheels. I have the same setup. I removed the rear chocks and just used flat E tracks instead. I found that once you ride up over the first chock down to between the two, you will be damned to be able to back out over the rear one. You just can't get enough traction to get up over it. The flat E-track on the backside of the wheel works just fine. Did a 2000 mile trip with occasional bumpy roads and nothing ever moved or loosened up. Enjoy your new trailer.

[EdMat]

Snoking, you will find that you don't need (can't use) the rear set of chocks for the front wheels. I have the same setup. I removed the rear chocks and just used flat E tracks instead. I found that once you ride up over the first chock down to between the two, you will be damned to be able to back out over the rear one. You just can't get enough traction to get up over it. The flat E-track on the backside of the wheel works just fine. Did a 2000 mile trip with occasional bumpy roads and nothing ever moved or loosened up. Enjoy your new trailer.

Looks like you could cut the chock part off the rear and just use the strap attachment part and it would work. Might have to put a plate over the cut off part to prevent cutting a tire.

[canamjhb]

Chris,

I bought a Primo 6X10 trailer last month. I used it to haul my Goldwing trike to Kerrville, TX and back. I. too, had a problem loading with the 4 foot bi-fold ramp. I just got 2 five foot long 2X10s, screwed a fastener in one end so it protruded down between the gate slats. I place the cheater ramps about half way up the trailer ramp. The fastener keeps the ramps from sliding out when loading and unloading. with the Spyder, you will not need a third cheater ramp for the rear wheel. I previously rented a 6X10 trailer with a 4 foot ramp and used this same method to load my Spyder RTL with no problems. And it had a bump-skid which made the front lower.

I think you will be happy with the Primo. I know I am. The great suspension and big 15 inch wheels make it track like it's on rails. One thing I'm going to do is reduce tire air pressure. My trailer weighs 550#s and my Wing is about 1,200#s so my total load is well under 2,000. I ran 50 psi to Texas and back and I think it was too much. I'm going to lower them to 40 when I do a shorter haul next time and see how that does. Good luck and I'm anxious to see pictures when you get er' done..... Jim


BTW, I'm from Washington also

[Snoking1127]

OK, had to take the spare tire off via the mount and haul it to the dealer. The guy putting it together yesterday used an impact driver tightening the spare lug nuts onto the SS bolts. SS is a soft medal and galls easily. All third were toast, and they replaced them and coated them with anti-seize.

So with the mount they provide for the spare, it was only 5.5" about the ground, so I spent most to the rest of the day raising the tire higher. I found a 5/8" x 10" x10" aluminum plate at a recycle yard for 10 bucks. I cut it in half and drill the mounting holes for 1/2" SS bolts. Cut the left over half down to be a plate on the other side of the 3"x3" frame rail. Drill the four matching holes in the up end of the first plate to bolt the mount to. One of the bolts galled on be, so I will have to get another tomorrow. I have not measured it in the new location, it was raised 4+" and has lots of clearance to the ground now. Chris

https://i.imgur.com/lDQHNCRl.jpg

[Snoking1127]

Chris,

I bought a Primo 6X10 trailer last month. I used it to haul my Goldwing trike to Kerrville, TX and back. I. too, had a problem loading with the 4 foot bi-fold ramp. I just got 2 five foot long 2X10s, screwed a fastener in one end so it protruded down between the gate slats. I place the cheater ramps about half way up the trailer ramp. The fastener keeps the ramps from sliding out when loading and unloading. with the Spyder, you will not need a third cheater ramp for the rear wheel. I previously rented a 6X10 trailer with a 4 foot ramp and used this same method to load my Spyder RTL with no problems. And it had a bump-skid which made the front lower.

I think you will be happy with the Primo. I know I am. The great suspension and big 15 inch wheels make it track like it's on rails. One thing I'm going to do is reduce tire air pressure. My trailer weighs 550#s and my Wing is about 1,200#s so my total load is well under 2,000. I ran 50 psi to Texas and back and I think it was too much. I'm going to lower them to 40 when I do a shorter haul next time and see how that does. Good luck and I'm anxious to see pictures when you get er' done..... Jim


BTW, I'm from Washington also

There is a spyder shift lever that hangs down can get hung up and damaged as one cross the breakover at the top of the ramp.
We are at Lake Connor Park Membership park normally in the summer months and winter at Canyon Vistas RV Resort in Gold Canyon.

Yes, I am going to address air pressure to the actual weight plus 5 PSI. With the stuff I will be haul in the boxes on the trailer I think I will run 35 PSI.

Here is the inflation table:

ST205/75R15
Single Tire
1220 lbs @25PSI
1360 lbs @30PSI
1480 lbs (B) @35PSI
1610 lbs @40PSI
1720 lbs @45PSI
1820 lbs (C) @50PSI
1940 lbs @55PSI
2040 lbs @60PSI
2150 lbs (D) @65PSI

[Snoking1127]

Snoking, you will find that you don't need (can't use) the rear set of chocks for the front wheels. I have the same setup. I removed the rear chocks and just used flat E tracks instead. I found that once you ride up over the first chock down to between the two, you will be damned to be able to back out over the rear one. You just can't get enough traction to get up over it. The flat E-track on the backside of the wheel works just fine. Did a 2000 mile trip with occasional bumpy roads and nothing ever moved or loosened up. Enjoy your new trailer.

Thanks for the heads up! That solves two issues, as I understand that the 2020+ have a slightly longer wheel base. So just having the E-track will allow for the difference in wheel base. Do you have pictures? It sounds like the car trick. Put a 2x4 it front of each tire and the car will not claim over them. Chris

[Bfromla]

OK, had to take the spare tire off via the mount and haul it to the dealer. The guy putting it together yesterday used an impact driver tightening the spare lug nuts onto the SS bolts. SS is a soft medal and galls easily. All third were toast, and they replaced them and coated them with anti-seize.

So with the mount they provide for the spare, it was only 5.5" about the ground, so I spent most to the rest of the day raising the tire higher. I found a 5/8" x 10" x10" aluminum plate at a recycle yard for 10 bucks. I cut it in half and drill the mounting holes for 1/2" SS bolts. Cut the left over half down to be a plate on the other side of the 3"x3" frame rail. Drill the four matching holes in the up end of the first plate to bolt the mount to. One of the bolts galled on be, so I will have to get another tomorrow. I have not measured it in the new location, it was raised 4+" and has lots of clearance to the ground now. Chris
Problem mounting to that upper rail instead ?:dontknow:

[Snoking1127]

Based on 'always Young's' input I ordered these two items for the read wheel. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C2AWHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note: Do NOT order this cheap ill fitting E-track. The accessories are quite loose when snapped in place. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO9QO0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Snoking1127]

One of the things I have been thinking about is which way to have the lid on the diamond plate box at the front on the trailers bed open? Seems that it would be easier to load and unload it the latches were to the front of the trailer and the lid hinge to the rear. If I was careful in where I drilled the holes to bolt it down to the trailer floor making them symmetrical then it could easily be turned around the other direction. Chris

[canamjhb]

Chris, when I mounted a wheel chalk for my bike I was careful to drill the holes BETWEEN the hat sections of the trailer floor. Then I used a 1 inch by 1 inch by 18 inches long L shaped aluminum piece under the trailer to provide good support for the bolts. Solid as a rock.

Rode by Canyon Vistas last Sunday on the way to Mammoth for lunch. Came home via Winkelman (new bridge is finished and open), Globe and Superior. I'm in Fountain of the Sun in East Mesa. Watching your project with interest..... Jim

[Snoking1127]

Problem mounting to that upper rail instead ?:dontknow:

The upper rail around the trailers bed floor is no where near strong enough to handle the weight of the spare.

[Snoking1127]

Chris, when I mounted a wheel chalk for my bike I was careful to drill the holes BETWEEN the hat sections of the trailer floor. Then I used a 1 inch by 1 inch by 18 inches long L shaped aluminum piece under the trailer to provide good support for the bolts. Solid as a rock...... Jim

Yes I noticed that the bed tie downs have a piece of square tubing that spans the top hats under the bed to distribute the load.

[always young]

Snorking, here's a link (?) to what I had posted on an earlier thread. It has pictures of my setup, although upside-down. Not sure how to add a link but you should be able to search for it.

Thread: Aluma 638 trailer, where to place tie down points?
by always young
Replies
8
Views
460
I'll add my experience to this conversation. Last...

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?139956-Aluma-638-trailer-where-to-place-tie-down-points&p=1573166#post1573166

Mod Edit: Link added - post #6 ;)
Ps: All it takes to add a link is to copy & paste the browser address line. :thumbup:

[Eviltwin]

I have an Aluma and set it up to haul the RT among other things. I had 2 stainless chocks made at a local shop for less than 100 and bolted them down once I figured out the position for best tongue weight. The ones you have selected will work, but I like these since it is pretty easy to drive into them and they do most of the work holding the bike on the trailer. I use some straps through the front A arms to tie downs and one strap on the rear wheel to keep the bike from lifting up in a panic stop.

https://i.imgur.com/iOhGiFt.jpg

[Snoking1127]

OK, the diamond plate box(60 x 24.5 x 20.5) arrived today and I got it installed. I put a 1/4" blue exercise mat between the trailer bed and the box. I have 10' front the box to the ramp. I am going to try to position the spyder so the frunk can be opened. Front wheel strap downs got delayed from Lowes until next Friday. Good price with military vet discount. May work on another box on the tongue in the mean time. Little tricky bolting things down without help, will recruit help for the trike tie downs. Chris

Opens to front of trailer:
https://i.imgur.com/5JvKaEzl.jpg

Hold down bolts
https://i.imgur.com/wRdDiezl.jpg

Underside:
https://i.imgur.com/IvhGpZxl.jpg

Beer time:
https://i.imgur.com/mq6kpsil.jpg

[Peter Aawen]

It's all looking pretty good! :ohyea:

Just a word of caution tho - be a little wary of putting too much weight forward of the trailer axle &/or on the drawbar, cos that WILL increase the download on the tow tongue/hitch, possibly beyond what is good for safe towing when the trailer is loaded (10-15% tongue weight MAX is what's recommended by many) - besides, there will very likely be times you need to tow the trailer empty, so all that extra weight on the drawbar transfers directly onto the hitch, making the tongue weight exceed the towed weight in a way that could well make towing downright dangerous!! :shocked:

So just sayin' - keep that Maximum tongue weight in mind while you're planning on increasing the drawbar load/ static weight in front of the trailer axle! :thumbup:

[billybovine]

I used the the E-tracks and the same straps that you ordered. But I also use E-chocks as well.

[Snoking1127]

It's all looking pretty good! :ohyea:

Just a word of caution tho - be a little wary of putting too much weight forward of the trailer axle &/or on the drawbar, cos that WILL increase the download on the tow tongue/hitch, possibly beyond what is good for safe towing when the trailer is loaded (10-15% tongue weight MAX is what's recommended by many) - besides, there will very likely be times you need to tow the trailer empty, so all that extra weight on the drawbar transfers directly onto the hitch, making the tongue weight exceed the towed weight in a way that could well make towing downright dangerous!! :shocked:

So just sayin' - keep that Maximum tongue weight in mind while you're planning on increasing the drawbar load/ static weight in front of the trailer axle! :thumbup:

I will load the spyder and measure tongue weight with empty boxes as a starting point. The 2020 Ford Edge ST will have mostly cloths, it is rated to tow 3500 pounds and 350 pounds tongue weight. I will most likely be in the 2000-2200 lbs range. The primary use will be to take stuff and the Spyder between Arizona and Washington State. The load should be the same most of the time. The second box will be for tie downs etc. I have RC airplane radios, flight box, batteries, riding gear, Honda EU2000i and such to take back and forth. Chris

[Snoking1127]

OK, the diamond plate box(60 x 24 x 21/5) arrived today and I got it installed. I put a 1/4" blue exercise mat between the trailer bed and the box. I have 10' front the box to the ramp. I am going to try to position the spyder so the frunk can be opened. Front wheel strap downs got delayed from Lowes until next Friday. Good price with military vet discount. May work on another box on the tongue in the mean time. Little tricky bolting things down without help, will recruit help for the trike tie downs. Chris

Opens to front of trailer:
https://i.imgur.com/5JvKaEzl.jpg

Hold down bolts
https://i.imgur.com/wRdDiezl.jpg

Underside:
https://i.imgur.com/IvhGpZxl.jpg

Beer time:
https://i.imgur.com/mq6kpsil.jpg

I removed the front OEM tie downs and will be installing them somewhere else on the trailer bed, most likely behind the box somewhere for friends that want to move their golf carts between Show Low and Gold Canyon, spring and fall. Insurance on the trailer is a rider on the Spyder's policy.

Note: Because of the bed framing layout I was unable to create the bolt down location of the box as symmetrical, so the box could easily be turned around the other direction.

[Snoking1127]

OK, had to take the spare tire off via the mount and haul it to the dealer. The guy putting it together yesterday used an impact driver tightening the spare lug nuts onto the SS bolts. SS is a soft medal and galls easily. All third were toast, and they replaced them and coated them with anti-seize.

So with the mount they provide for the spare, it was only 5.5" about the ground, so I spent most to the rest of the day raising the tire higher. I found a 5/8" x 10" x10" aluminum plate at a recycle yard for 10 bucks. I cut it in half and drill the mounting holes for 1/2" SS bolts. Cut the left over half down to be a plate on the other side of the 3"x3" frame rail. Drill the four matching holes in the up end of the first plate to bolt the mount to. One of the bolts galled on be, so I will have to get another tomorrow. I have not measured it in the new location, it was raised 4+" and has lots of clearance to the ground now. Chris

Spare tire clearance to ground now with the trailer level.

https://i.imgur.com/W5c6SsPl.jpg

[Snoking1127]

Next project, I picked up a small diamond plate box for the tongue yesterday. I will use this box for tie down straps, tools, hydraulic jack etc. Had some spacers to clear the jack mount. I think I will drill and tap threaded holes in the aluminum frame to bolt it down for inside the box.

https://i.imgur.com/EACUy4Gl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gjmzhuMl.jpg

[dbh999]

I have an Aluma and set it up to haul the RT among other things. I had 2 stainless chocks made at a local shop for less than 100 and bolted them down once I figured out the position for best tongue weight. The ones you have selected will work, but I like these since it is pretty easy to drive into them and they do most of the work holding the bike on the trailer. I use some straps through the front A arms to tie downs and one strap on the rear wheel to keep the bike from lifting up in a panic stop.

https://i.imgur.com/iOhGiFt.jpg

Which Aluma trailer is that?

[Eviltwin]

Thats the 7810ES. 78 inches wide, 10 feet long.

[Snoking1127]

Loaded up the spyder to mark location of the E-track rear and E-track wheel stops front. The trailer has 180 lbs of tongue weight(right at 10%) as pictured and will be more when I fill the big box. There will be a couple hundred pounds stuff that will go in the boxes. So I am going to leave it back far enough to be able to open the frunk.

https://i.imgur.com/8T3KdyNl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2EYHFGJl.jpg

[canamjhb]

Looks great Chris.....

[Snoking1127]

OK, I reinstall the front tie downs behind the big box 24" in from the trailer sides. I strapped the rear tire down to ramp hinges(which are much more robust than the trailer bed tie downs), and double up on the front from my eyelets of the lower shock bolts and took it for a test spin up to 70 MPH to make sure it towed OK. I could see the rear suspension on the Spyder working on bumpy sections of road. Overall I am a happy trucker! The 2020 Ford Edge ST Twin Turbo 2.7L seemed to handle it fine. The ST is a Ford Performance product with a much stiffer suspension then the other 4 cylinder SE, SEL and Titanium models. I thing I have a winner. With 380 lb ft of torque and 335 hp it should get the job done. Chris

https://i.imgur.com/Bgv20Ugl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7T6H3S4l.jpg

[Snoking1127]

Looks great Chris.....

Thanks see note on test tow above. I am ready to install the Erickson system. Will most likely also put backup racket straps for just incase. Chris

[Wmoater]

Snoking can I make one recommendation to add to your trailer? It is a beautiful setup! Since your top door on the large metal chest opens from the front, never trust those latches. I’d take a round 36 inch soft bungee and “while driving” hook the bungee around the front rail over the top of the box and into one of the tie down rings on the bed. Just in case it was to unlatch and the wind wipes the door open, the bungee would keep it from folding back onto your hood of the spyder. Just a safety thought. I’ve seen it happen on a bumper pull RV trailer . It cracked the fiberglass nose all up.

[Snoking1127]

Snoking can I make one recommendation to add to your trailer? It is a beautiful setup! Since your top door on the large metal chest opens from the front, never trust those latches. I’d take a round 36 inch soft bungee and “while driving” hook the bungee around the front rail over the top of the box and into one of the tie down rings on the bed. Just in case it was to unlatch and the wind wipes the door open, the bungee would keep it from folding back onto your hood of the spyder. Just a safety thought. I’ve seen it happen on a bumper pull RV trailer . It cracked the fiberglass nose all up.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will do that, or maybe better a ratchet strap or two, less give! I did a lot of think about which way to position the box. This way offers better walk up access. Thanks Chris

[Wmoater]

There’s no problem how you did it. Agree fast access. If you use a ratchet get the some knee high length soccer socks. Cut the toe off and run the strap through that sock to not scratch that new shiny box. In 2 years it will begin to oxidize from sun and rain. then don’t worry about the sock at that point. It’s so pretty right now don’t scuff it up.

[Snoking1127]

Latest update: Check pin weight and did a test tow yesterday. Today I checked hitch weight again and then put the 48.8 lb generator in the box. The pin weight went from 191 to 221. So 61% of the generator weight went on the hitch. So I could still load about 210 lbs of stuff in the box and be within the Edge 350 lb hitch weight limit.

I install the first set of front chocks also. Chris

https://i.imgur.com/bTXYKLwl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JyL2Jycl.jpg

[canamjhb]

Your method for attaching brackets using L shaped aluminum is exactly how I did it too. Makes for a good, strong installation. I have just one wheel chock (front) for my Goldwing trike. It is a ride-into that cradles the front tire both front and back. My trike did not move one bit on an 1,800 mile trip. And I-10 east of El Paso has got to be the pot hole capitol of the world. And, I do not have a parking brake. The trike was in neutral. I think you can have a lot of confidence in your trailer set up..... :2thumbs: Jim

[Snoking1127]

Your method for attaching brackets using L shaped aluminum is exactly how I did it too. Makes for a good, strong installation. I have just one wheel chock (front) for my Goldwing trike. It is a ride-into that cradles the front tire both front and back. My trike did not move one bit on an 1,800 mile trip. And I-10 east of El Paso has got to be the pot hole capitol of the world. And, I do not have a parking brake. The trike was in neutral. I think you can have a lot of confidence in your trailer set up..... :2thumbs: Jim

The L shaped aluminum came about via your suggestion. Down to the rear E-track. I did not like the cheapy I bought so reorder another one, which should be here tomorrow. Chris

https://i.imgur.com/9fLmEqql.jpg

[MNF3]

I set up my Aluma MC210 this way and it worked like a dream - until I tried to back off! Rear wheel just spun. It took two of us to rock my F3-T so it would climb over the back chocks! I took the back chocks off and bolted down etrack instead. Now it really works great! Depending on the traction of the trailer deck you might not need to do this. It would be a good idea to order more etrack just in case.

[Snoking1127]

I set up my Aluma MC210 this way and it worked like a dream - until I tried to back off! Rear wheel just spun. It took two of us to rock my F3-T so it would climb over the back chocks! I took the back chocks off and bolted down etrack instead. Now it really works great! Depending on the traction of the trailer deck you might not need to do this. It would be a good idea to order more etrack just in case.

I will put my 222 pounds in the back seat for traction!!!! I was told not the use these chocks on the rear wheel for that reason. RU saying it would not pull the front wheels over the humps? The rear is getting just an 24" E-track and strap.

https://i.imgur.com/7CNm4Dul.jpg

[MNF3]

I only had the chocks on the front wheels and I couldn’t get backed out. I’m 6’3” and 225!

[Snoking1127]

The second 24" E-track arrived today. It is much better than the first piece of junk I ordered. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055DMWDA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then again it cost twice as much. One gets what they pay for. Will work on it tomorrow morning when it is cooler. Chris

[Snoking1127]

I set up my Aluma MC210 this way and it worked like a dream - until I tried to back off! Rear wheel just spun. It took two of us to rock my F3-T so it would climb over the back chocks! I took the back chocks off and bolted down etrack instead. Now it really works great! Depending on the traction of the trailer deck you might not need to do this. It would be a good idea to order more etrack just in case.

OK, I figure out how to get in and out of the dual front chocks. Going in you just need a little momentum. Backing out I drove forward a bit and put on the brakes, switched to reverse and power braked a bit, then release the brake and it popped up and over the rear chock with the slight head start. I was able to skid the rear tire sideways of the E-track to center it up with a ratchet strap.

https://i.imgur.com/dDgo1TIl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/MOkH3oel.jpg

[canamjhb]

Looks like you're good to go Chris. Also, nice to see the Federals and General on your Spyder. That's what I ran also...... Jim

[MNF3]

That’s definitely as secure as you will ever need!

[Snoking1127]

Well this morning a did a road trip to check fuel mileage and the tie downs. I drove from Gold Canyon to Florence, Az about 28 miles and got out and checked things over. The strap on the rear tire was a little loose, which surprised me a bit. I drove 89 miles and it took 5.095 gallons. Which is 17.468 MPG hand cal. Trailer handles well and the trike seem to do great on it. I had put some more stuff in the storage box also. :2thumbs:

https://i.imgur.com/4iiXqail.jpg

[Snoking1127]

I set up my Aluma MC210 this way and it worked like a dream - until I tried to back off! Rear wheel just spun. It took two of us to rock my F3-T so it would climb over the back chocks! I took the back chocks off and bolted down etrack instead. Now it really works great! Depending on the traction of the trailer deck you might not need to do this. It would be a good idea to order more etrack just in case.

OK, you were right it is to hard to consistently back out of the rear front wheel chocks. So I order two of these to replace the rear chocks.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMCOHJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Snoking1127]

So I thought the rear tire should sit on more than just the E-Track, so I bought a plastic cutting board and made outriggers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078GJNXTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://i.imgur.com/2sS55spl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/T6P41eGl.jpg

[Ridethru]

Based on 'always Young's' input I ordered these two items for the read wheel. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C2AWHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note: Do NOT order this cheap ill fitting E-track. The accessories are quite loose when snapped in place. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO9QO0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought that track and agree with the comment. A little loose. The fix i found was a hammer on the back side. Tightened the fit right up.

[Snoking1127]

Given that I am one step away from completing the build out of the trailer, I thought I would give you a run down on the cost.

Trailer including Tax, Spare tire and License(life time plates).
$3,793.43

The two boxes
$660.25

Ace Hardware, nuts and bolts and aluminum angle iron.
$145.23

Amazon Tiedowns, ramps, nuts, bolts, washers
$497.36

Total to date
$5,096.27

You know what? I got exactly what I wanted and how I wanted it. Also it has been good therapy for me with my DW approach the end with her ALS.

This morning I worked on pins to hold the secondary ramps in place on the trailers shorter ramp.

I will post a final pictures with the Spyder on it when I get those last small E-track rails for behind the front tires. Chris

https://i.imgur.com/3CzLDhrl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/j6P5p2Gl.jpg

[JoshHefnerX]

I'm curious about why you wouldn't want to take the ride on the Spyder, up the Pacific coast would be epic.

[Snoking1127]

Because I commute between the two locations fall and spring.

[Snoking1127]

Well the newest E-track tie downs showed up today and the project is more or less complete. Being a old Coastie and boater that double down on mooring lines when the wind was blowing, the Spyder is going to ride in that mode.

https://i.imgur.com/vwnBBQil.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uYQ4drql.jpg

I drilled a couple more holes in the OEM ramp so the outside ramps can move in to load a golf cart.

https://i.imgur.com/77VLmczl.jpg

Yes the Ring nuts on the lower shock mount get to be part of the tie down.

https://i.imgur.com/R8EYteEl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BU9Lgfsl.jpg

The four black ratchet straps on continues loops with no hooks.

https://i.imgur.com/StGy0Vol.jpg

I am very happy with the finished product!

Depending on my wife's health and what happens there, this is where I will be spending the summer months In Washington State.

https://i.imgur.com/TfyV3Vfl.jpg

[Snoking1127]

This morning I got going early while it was still cool out an towed the trailer/with Spyder up the B-Line into the mountains and back for a second shakedown run. 130 miles round trip with lots of up and down hills on the B-line. Mileage was 17.7 or similar to the first test on the flats in the East Valley. :2thumbs::cheers:

[billybovine]

Wow that's a lot of straps. I only strap down the front wheels with straps, E-tracks and E-chocks. As my picture in my previous post shows. I do nothing for the rear wheel. It won't move. But whatever makes you feel secure.

[dbh999]

What brand are the 3 auxiliary ramps you are using?

[Snoking1127]

Wow that's a lot of straps. I only strap down the front wheels with straps, E-tracks and E-chocks. As my picture in my previous post shows. I do nothing for the rear wheel. It won't move. But whatever makes you feel secure.

It is going to be a 1500-1600 trip each way, so I want it doubly secured.

[Snoking1127]

What brand are the 3 auxiliary ramps you are using?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DKLMSN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I drilled out the aluminum pop rivets on the hinges and separated it in to three ramps, verse the tri-fold ramp. Chris

[canamjhb]

Chris,

Did you get the tire pressure figured out? Thanks..... Jim

[Snoking1127]

Chris,

Did you get the tire pressure figured out? Thanks..... Jim

Put at 40, however I think I can go lower yet. Been busy with wife's health the Ford Edge leaving the trailer running lights on when the vehicle is off.

[Snoking1127]

Well DW stepped off the planet on July 5th and after wrapped up all the associated paper work I headed North with her ashes and the Spyder on the trailer.

Wells Nv headed North:

https://i.imgur.com/PmIipDLl.jpg

Before leaving for Washington I bought a Kawasaki KRX 1000.

https://i.imgur.com/RUx5Su5l.jpg

So before returning I traded the Edge ST for a 2021 F150 XLT Sport. Wells Nv headed South.

https://i.imgur.com/gtZJZmLl.jpg

KRX on the trailer:

https://i.imgur.com/LNMrAWPl.jpg



I was going to get a ticket or kill myself in the Edge ST as it was just to much fun to drive! The dealer gave me more than we paid for it 15 months earlier and 2 K off the F150. The F150 is loaded with options, 12" Sync 4 display, Co-pilot 360, 360 cameras, Pro Backup assist, stop and go adaptive Cruse on and on. It is much more conformable seat for long trips like I make. Both had/have the 2.7L twin turbo V6. Edge was 335/380 8 speed and the F150 is 325/400 10 speed.

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