MONK
01-16-2021, 07:14 PM
I bought a 2021 RT base/standard a few months ago. One of the things the Limited has that I wanted was the frunk liner so I added that to my shopping list (at a discount) when I bought my bike. The dealership wanted 2-3 hours labor (@ $95/hr) to install it which I thought was a bit steep to I decided to install it on my own. Not sure this was such a good idea but hindsight is 20/20, eh?
Before I start, a big shoutout to sunnshine. I don't know who she is but had it not been for her assistance/boot-in-the-rear, I probably wouldn't have attempted it.
Anyway, on the the meat of the matter. This took me the better part of a day but there were some mitigating circumstances. I don't have a "real" garage, I didn't have ramps (which I now have....you'll need these), my collection of tools is minimal and I don't have a workbench (not necessary but damn handy). At a minimum, you'll need a 10mm socket AND extensions, 10mm combination wrench, either a push pin puller tool or a good sized flat head screwdriver, a T30 torx driver/bit and a few other misc torx drivers/bits (I can't remember the other sizes).
This will not be as comprehensive as I had planned as it just started taking too long and I kind of gave up taking pictures. With the traffic noise, video taping this was out of the question.
On to the show.
There are (3) main steps involved although each step has multiple parts. First, remove the (3) main side panels (i.e. tupperware). I've got a video of this although I forgot to shoot the step where you remove the front service cover just to the rear of the frunk.
187201
Simple and you'll only need to remove (3) push pins and (3) T30 torx bolts on each side. Second, you'll need to remove the entire front clip. (This seems like a daunting task but it's easier than it was on the previous generation.) Third, you'll need to disassemble the front clip in order to remove the top ring that actually holds the frunk liner.
First things, first. Run the bike up on a set of ramps. Trust me, unless you can fit in 3" of clearance, you WANT to do this. Standard ramps are fine. You only need to get to a couple of bolts that sit to the rear of the plastic skid plate. Unfortunately, those bolts are in a recess and can't be seen from the front.
Before you remove any bolts for the front clip, you need to unplug a few wires. The shop manual says there are (5) of them. Some of them are dead ends. I had (2). One on the right side connected to the ambient air temp sensor...
187208
...and one on the left side going to the Auxiliary light. There's another capped plug tangled up with the Auxiliary plug that (I think) is for the Limiteds Signature lights. I'll test this to be sure once I add those later this year. (NOTE: if you start the bike once you've unplugged the ambient temp sensor, you'll get a couple fault codes.) Also NOTE, if you have anything hooked up to the battery that runs into the frunk, remove the cover/unwire it now. (I have an SAE cable for a batter tender and didn't think about this until I was holding the entire front of the bike in my hands and realized I had to temporarily remount it in order to take the battery cover off.) You'll also have to unplug the BUDS cable from its faux port and tuck it out of the way.
Next, you'll need to remove the the (2) bolts under the bike THEN the (4) bolts just under the headlights. These are all 10mm. I used a short extension on all of them. Now, you'll need to remove the frunk lock. Again, 10mm bolts and Nyloc nuts. (BuRP calls these elasticated somethingorother and says you should replace them. Don't listen to BuRP.) The bolt heads are easy to get to. The Nyloc nuts, not so much. If you drop them (now or when you're reassembling), they fall into odd places. I wrapped a piece of tape around an index finger and stuck the bottom of the nut to the tape. Worked well. Again, I didn't think about this until I was REassembling the part and kept dropping the nuts.) NOTE: the spring isn't going anywhere. It's captured by something on the underside. NOTE: once you've removed the bolts, DON'T lift up until you're ready to remove the front end. There are a couple of tabs the front hangs from. Handy. Would have been handier if I'd realized these were there BEFORE I was reassembling everything. Happy to be your guinea pig.) The 2nd pic shows where the (2) underside bolts are. One is just to the front of the drain line. The other is in the matching recess on the other side of the bike. You can see where there are (2) pieces of metal going from the cross bar of the frame to the plastic skid plate. That's what the bolts thread into.
187202
187203
187204
NOW, you can lift off the entire front end! The easy part's done! What you should see is this.
187205
You'll want to put your newly detached front end on a nice, big, scratchproof workbench. I'm fortunate enough to have the latest Washerdryerlator work bench and the Towel2000 anti scratchproof cover. Now comes the fun part. There are a bunch of bolts and push pins you'll need to remove in order to get that stupid ring off the top of the frunk. The top of the liner goes under the ring but over the main section unlike the previous generation which just went under the gasket. The good news is that the Velcro is pre-mounted on the main section.
There are (3) basic sections you'll need to separate; the outer shell, the tub assembly and the color matched cover. If you don't lose parts behind/under your Washerdryerlator work bench, you should be fine. Start by removing (4) screws on the bottom of the skid plate. I highlighted them in red.
187209
After that, remove the (4) screws on the rear of the front assembly.
187210
On each side, inboard of each fin, facing the front, there is a T30 bolt that needs to be removed. Also remove the (4) push pins on top of the cover (you'll have to open the lid to see these). There is also a push pin on each side of the shell you need to remove. There are (2) screws you do NOT need to remove. (Push pin is in red/screws in blue)
187211
187212
Now, you can remove the shell from the tub assembly. It'll slide out the back but it'll get caught up on everything.
Take a deep breath.
Put the shell aside. You're done with it. What you should have left is the tub and the color matched cover. There's a long bolt that goes through the hinge on the cover. 10mm. Remove that and set the cover aside. Now, remove all the push pins you can find on what's left of the tub. There are quite a few and some of them are well hidden. (way to go, BuRP!) Might be (6) or (8) of them, I can't remember. You'll know when you've gotten them all when you can remove the ring from the tub.
For reference: A=ring which sits on...B=top 1/2 of tub which is permanently attached to...C=bottom 1/2 of tub. D=shell
187213
Remove the ring, insert the liner into the tub, pull the thin area over the top and secure the Velcro strips to the Velcro tabs. I didn't snap a pic but I left the ends of the Velcro strips at the ends of the Velcro dots. (I didn't leave any overhang.) Place the ring on top of the liner and reverse the ENTIRE process. Once you're done, have a nice frosty........um, glass of milk. You go from
THIS - 187214
to THIS - 187215
to THIS - 187216
My final thoughts. Had I spent the add'l $4k, I would have had a trunk and a frunk liner and wouldn't have had to jack around with mounting either. Next time, I'm buying a Limited. Would I do this again? Honestly, probably not but if I had a decent garage and the proper tools, maybe. Would have been nice if BuRP had instructions for this but I was expecting a bit much from them.
Difficulty (scale of 1-12.584): Depends on your skillset and access to a garage and good tools. Given my circumstances, I'd give it an 11.82. If you're all set up and aren't mechanically challenged (and have more patience than I do), I'd say it's a solid 7+.
If you see any errors in my post, please don't let me know. I'm tired, I hurt from head to toe and I'm still bleeding. If you can use some of this info, super! Glad to help and happy to be the guinea pig.
ON TO THE NEXT PROJECT!
Before I start, a big shoutout to sunnshine. I don't know who she is but had it not been for her assistance/boot-in-the-rear, I probably wouldn't have attempted it.
Anyway, on the the meat of the matter. This took me the better part of a day but there were some mitigating circumstances. I don't have a "real" garage, I didn't have ramps (which I now have....you'll need these), my collection of tools is minimal and I don't have a workbench (not necessary but damn handy). At a minimum, you'll need a 10mm socket AND extensions, 10mm combination wrench, either a push pin puller tool or a good sized flat head screwdriver, a T30 torx driver/bit and a few other misc torx drivers/bits (I can't remember the other sizes).
This will not be as comprehensive as I had planned as it just started taking too long and I kind of gave up taking pictures. With the traffic noise, video taping this was out of the question.
On to the show.
There are (3) main steps involved although each step has multiple parts. First, remove the (3) main side panels (i.e. tupperware). I've got a video of this although I forgot to shoot the step where you remove the front service cover just to the rear of the frunk.
187201
Simple and you'll only need to remove (3) push pins and (3) T30 torx bolts on each side. Second, you'll need to remove the entire front clip. (This seems like a daunting task but it's easier than it was on the previous generation.) Third, you'll need to disassemble the front clip in order to remove the top ring that actually holds the frunk liner.
First things, first. Run the bike up on a set of ramps. Trust me, unless you can fit in 3" of clearance, you WANT to do this. Standard ramps are fine. You only need to get to a couple of bolts that sit to the rear of the plastic skid plate. Unfortunately, those bolts are in a recess and can't be seen from the front.
Before you remove any bolts for the front clip, you need to unplug a few wires. The shop manual says there are (5) of them. Some of them are dead ends. I had (2). One on the right side connected to the ambient air temp sensor...
187208
...and one on the left side going to the Auxiliary light. There's another capped plug tangled up with the Auxiliary plug that (I think) is for the Limiteds Signature lights. I'll test this to be sure once I add those later this year. (NOTE: if you start the bike once you've unplugged the ambient temp sensor, you'll get a couple fault codes.) Also NOTE, if you have anything hooked up to the battery that runs into the frunk, remove the cover/unwire it now. (I have an SAE cable for a batter tender and didn't think about this until I was holding the entire front of the bike in my hands and realized I had to temporarily remount it in order to take the battery cover off.) You'll also have to unplug the BUDS cable from its faux port and tuck it out of the way.
Next, you'll need to remove the the (2) bolts under the bike THEN the (4) bolts just under the headlights. These are all 10mm. I used a short extension on all of them. Now, you'll need to remove the frunk lock. Again, 10mm bolts and Nyloc nuts. (BuRP calls these elasticated somethingorother and says you should replace them. Don't listen to BuRP.) The bolt heads are easy to get to. The Nyloc nuts, not so much. If you drop them (now or when you're reassembling), they fall into odd places. I wrapped a piece of tape around an index finger and stuck the bottom of the nut to the tape. Worked well. Again, I didn't think about this until I was REassembling the part and kept dropping the nuts.) NOTE: the spring isn't going anywhere. It's captured by something on the underside. NOTE: once you've removed the bolts, DON'T lift up until you're ready to remove the front end. There are a couple of tabs the front hangs from. Handy. Would have been handier if I'd realized these were there BEFORE I was reassembling everything. Happy to be your guinea pig.) The 2nd pic shows where the (2) underside bolts are. One is just to the front of the drain line. The other is in the matching recess on the other side of the bike. You can see where there are (2) pieces of metal going from the cross bar of the frame to the plastic skid plate. That's what the bolts thread into.
187202
187203
187204
NOW, you can lift off the entire front end! The easy part's done! What you should see is this.
187205
You'll want to put your newly detached front end on a nice, big, scratchproof workbench. I'm fortunate enough to have the latest Washerdryerlator work bench and the Towel2000 anti scratchproof cover. Now comes the fun part. There are a bunch of bolts and push pins you'll need to remove in order to get that stupid ring off the top of the frunk. The top of the liner goes under the ring but over the main section unlike the previous generation which just went under the gasket. The good news is that the Velcro is pre-mounted on the main section.
There are (3) basic sections you'll need to separate; the outer shell, the tub assembly and the color matched cover. If you don't lose parts behind/under your Washerdryerlator work bench, you should be fine. Start by removing (4) screws on the bottom of the skid plate. I highlighted them in red.
187209
After that, remove the (4) screws on the rear of the front assembly.
187210
On each side, inboard of each fin, facing the front, there is a T30 bolt that needs to be removed. Also remove the (4) push pins on top of the cover (you'll have to open the lid to see these). There is also a push pin on each side of the shell you need to remove. There are (2) screws you do NOT need to remove. (Push pin is in red/screws in blue)
187211
187212
Now, you can remove the shell from the tub assembly. It'll slide out the back but it'll get caught up on everything.
Take a deep breath.
Put the shell aside. You're done with it. What you should have left is the tub and the color matched cover. There's a long bolt that goes through the hinge on the cover. 10mm. Remove that and set the cover aside. Now, remove all the push pins you can find on what's left of the tub. There are quite a few and some of them are well hidden. (way to go, BuRP!) Might be (6) or (8) of them, I can't remember. You'll know when you've gotten them all when you can remove the ring from the tub.
For reference: A=ring which sits on...B=top 1/2 of tub which is permanently attached to...C=bottom 1/2 of tub. D=shell
187213
Remove the ring, insert the liner into the tub, pull the thin area over the top and secure the Velcro strips to the Velcro tabs. I didn't snap a pic but I left the ends of the Velcro strips at the ends of the Velcro dots. (I didn't leave any overhang.) Place the ring on top of the liner and reverse the ENTIRE process. Once you're done, have a nice frosty........um, glass of milk. You go from
THIS - 187214
to THIS - 187215
to THIS - 187216
My final thoughts. Had I spent the add'l $4k, I would have had a trunk and a frunk liner and wouldn't have had to jack around with mounting either. Next time, I'm buying a Limited. Would I do this again? Honestly, probably not but if I had a decent garage and the proper tools, maybe. Would have been nice if BuRP had instructions for this but I was expecting a bit much from them.
Difficulty (scale of 1-12.584): Depends on your skillset and access to a garage and good tools. Given my circumstances, I'd give it an 11.82. If you're all set up and aren't mechanically challenged (and have more patience than I do), I'd say it's a solid 7+.
If you see any errors in my post, please don't let me know. I'm tired, I hurt from head to toe and I'm still bleeding. If you can use some of this info, super! Glad to help and happy to be the guinea pig.
ON TO THE NEXT PROJECT!