2020-21 RTL Auxiliary Light Install with optional on/off switch

[Valkrocket]

Background: Because the 2020-21 RTL’s do not have fog lights as an option and I wanted more illumination up front, I decided to install the Auxiliary Light under the Frunk. BRP has one for a ridiculously high price of $265. It is a simple plug n’ Play accessory for that price, but if you don’t mind doing a little cut n’ splice work, you can save over $245 by ordering one from eBay which fits perfectly in the slot under the frunk and you use the screws you remove from the OEM blank grill piece to install it. You have a choice of flood light or spot light. I wanted a lot of light on the road ahead of me so I ordered the flood light. I gotta tell you, this sucker is bright. Everyone and anyone can see you coming. So bright that I decided to add an on/off switch so I wouldn’t feel like I was blinding oncoming traffic at night. (In retrospect maybe I should have ordered the spotlight instead.) I use it in daylight hours and on dark roads at night and can shut it of with the flip of a switch if needed. Wow, what a difference. I have provided links to the lightbar and rocker switch below. Sorry, no pictures.....I have tunnel vision once I start a project. Special thanks to Jetfixer for the panel removal instructions and KX5062 for pointing me in the right direction.

Parts needed:
LED Light Bar from eBay
Sealed rocker switch from Amazon
Approx. 10’ 18-gauge electrical wire (Walmart or auto store)
2 female spade connectors to fit over rocker switch terminals (Walmart or auto store)
2 red Butt Connectors for splicing switch wires to aux. light wire (Yup, Walmart or auto store)
Either 2 red Butt Connectors (permanent lightbar installation) or 2 sets red wire disconnects (in case you want to change style of light bar at later date) (You guessed it, Walmart or auto store)
Assorted wire ties (Optional) (auto store or Walmart, changed it up on ya :) )
Wire cutter/crimping/stripping tool (come on everyone has one of them)
Phillips screwdriver

To install new LED Lightbar:
Make sure ignition switch is in off position. Manufacturer recommends to disconnecting your battery during this process. I didn’t because I’ve installed more lights on my motorcycles than I can remember. First remove the grill piece under frunk (2 Phillip screws on either side) That was easy. You will find 2 connectors in the new space you revealed. Cut them off about 2 inches from the end (in case you ever want to get the OEM Auxiliary light at a later date.) Install either 2 red butt connectors on wires or female side of red disconnects using crimp tool. Install 1 each red male disconnect on end of both wires from new LED light and plug into female ends, or if using Butt connecters, press 2 wires from new light into other end of red Butt connectors installed on Auxiliary light wire and crimp tight. Wrap any/all connections with electrical tape to help waterproof connections. Screw in new Lightbar using 2 Philips screws from removed grill piece. Entire process shouldn’t take more than 30 minutes. Stop here if you want your light always on whenever headlights are on. Install time: Less than 30 minutes.

To install an on/off matching Rocker Switch:
Remove the panels per Jetfixers instructions (see links below). Now you have easy access to the center panel and can pop out the blank switch. That was easy. Find the left headlight wire with auxiliary light wire coming into it from front end. Cut the Auxiliary Light wire and strip both ends about 1/4 - 3/8”. Crimp on a Butt Connector on each wire. Cut off two 5’ sections of the 18-gauge wire. Strip both ends of the 2 wires about ¼ - 3/8” from end. Slide in one end of each wire into open end of Butt Connector on Auxiliary wire and crimp Butt Connectors. Next crimp on two female spade connectors (same size as new switch spades.) Feed each wire back, up and finally through the opening where switch will be installed. There is plenty of room to feed these wires up to opening. Use wire ties to neaten up the install (optional). Press spade connectors onto new rocker switch. Turn on Spyder and make sure on/off switch is working. I wired the switch so that up position is on and down position is off. Your choice either way. Feed excess wire into console and press new switch into opening. Congrats you just Saved $245 and added an on/off switch in place of that useless dummy switch cover. Install time: approx. 90 minutes.

Links:
Jetfixer Panel removal link: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?131429-2020-RT-Panel-removal

LED Auxiliary Light; https://www.ebay.com/itm/7inch-Slim-LED-Work-Light-Bar-Single-Row-Spot-Flood-Offroad-Driving-ATV-4WD-SUV/124196721417?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=425103094996&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648

Rocker On/off switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDDRG5I?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_image

[K80Shooter]

May I ask why you chose that light? Was it wattage related? Do you by any chance know how many watts the constant on would support? Sorry for so many questions. I was looking at this light but it might be overkill. Thoughts?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7inch-Slim-LED-Light-Bar-Work-Spot-Flood-Dual-Row-Offroad-Driving-ATV-UTE-SUV/124205650703?_trkparms=aid%3D1110012%26algo%3DSPLI CE.SOIPOST%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190711095549%26meid% 3Dda752705fc044670810e0c88ccfcf57b%26pid%3D100047% 26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D124196721417%26itm%3D12 4205650703%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26al gv%3DSellersOtherItemsV2%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100047.m2108

[Valkrocket]

May I ask why you chose that light? Was it wattage related? Do you by any chance know how many watts the constant on would support? Sorry for so many questions. I was looking at this light but it might be overkill. Thoughts?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7inch-Slim-LED-Light-Bar-Work-Spot-Flood-Dual-Row-Offroad-Driving-ATV-UTE-SUV/124205650703?_trkparms=aid%3D1110012%26algo%3DSPLI CE.SOIPOST%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190711095549%26meid% 3Dda752705fc044670810e0c88ccfcf57b%26pid%3D100047% 26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D124196721417%26itm%3D12 4205650703%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26al gv%3DSellersOtherItemsV2%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100047.m2108

Yes, I figured 18 watts is a small drain to the system and should not send up any codes. The one you are looking at is 60 watts LED. Not sure if the spyder can handle an extra 60, plus I'm pretty sure it would be a hazard to oncoming drivers. You can not point these bar lights down. There is not enough clearance in the grill slot.

[Bruita]

We also have a 2020 RT we purchased in July an I installed an auxiliary light from Amazon and have ridden 8000 miles since install we had no issues other than it was blinding oncoming vehicles. I was able to remove and shim to fix that problem. The light I bought was a two pack for $25.99 and simply compresses in the opening, no bolts needed, it’s perfect. I cut the constant feed wires and installed generic waterproof connectors. I opted to not put on separate switch because of safety reasons, more light for others to see and it’s not bothering oncomers.
The lights are “Autofeel LED 7inch flood spot Beam Combo” on Amazon

[bikerbillone]

I purchased the same 'pair' of lights from Amazon for my 2020 RTL, that thing fit perfectly into the slot, never had oncoming traffic high beam flash me. This thing is down low enough I cannot see that it would be a problem. I installed no switch, it works as designed by BRP by just doing the splice. As mentioned By Bruita, just compress the aux light into the slot, it fits tight, no screws, easy install.

[rtmario]

If anybody is looking for the right color ( choose amber ) lighted switch for their led light.... https://www.otrattw.net/L-SERIES-GRILLE-LIGHTS-LOWER-LED-INDEPENDENT-L11S5-5LB.html

[motoguzziman]

We also have a 2020 RT we purchased in July an I installed an auxiliary light from Amazon and have ridden 8000 miles since install we had no issues other then it was blinding oncoming vehicles. I was able to remove and shim to fix that problem. The light I bought was a two pack for $25.99 and simply compresses in the opening, no bolts needed, it’s perfect. I cut the constant feed wires and installed generic waterproof connectors. I opted to not put on separate switch because of safety reasons, more light for others to see and it’s not bothering oncomers.
The lights are “Autofeel LED 7inch flood spot Beam Combo” on Amazon

Can you post a picture of the lights installed on your 2020 RT?

[Danzguy]

I purchased the same 'pair' of lights from Amazon for my 2020 RTL, that thing fit perfectly into the slot, never had oncoming traffic high beam flash me. This thing is down low enough I cannot see that it would be a problem. I installed no switch, it works as designed by BRP by just doing the splice. As mentioned By Bruita, just compress the aux light into the slot, it fits tight, no screws, easy install.

Question for you Bikerbillone, did the power cord found behind the plate have power to it. I just clipped my cord to hook up the same auxiliary light (light bar) and there is no power. I have a new 2022 rtl with just 600 miles on it and I expected there to be power. Your answer is appreciated!
BTW, I hope that all is well down there following Ian! Cheers

[bikerbillone]

Hi Guy, your question is timely, just now got WiFi & internet from being shut down from hurricane IAN. Gosh not sure why you have no power, mine was easy peasy just twisted the wires together and walla, mucho light and slide into place. If switching wires doesn't work, I would first think of a fuse. If you have a volt/ohm meter but if you had one you probably already used it. If you ordered, you got two lights, check the other one, see if it works, if not check for a defective fuse. Maybe the 22 is different, I would think not. Hope you find your prob 'cause this thing works good.

[Knizar]

Question for you Bikerbillone, did the power cord found behind the plate have power to it. I just clipped my cord to hook up the same auxiliary light (light bar) and there is no power. I have a new 2022 rtl with just 600 miles on it and I expected there to be power. Your answer is appreciated!
BTW, I hope that all is well down there following Ian! Cheers

Danzguy,, The bike has to be RUNNING for the bottom light to get power, It's wired into the headlight wiring.

[Danzguy]

Danzguy,, The bike has to be RUNNING for the bottom light to get power, It's wired into the headlight wiring.

Doh, you are correct! I had been just turning the key on. Lordy do I feel stupid! TY very much!

[Danzguy]

Hi Guy, your question is timely, just now got WiFi & internet from being shut down from hurricane IAN. Gosh not sure why you have no power, mine was easy peasy just twisted the wires together and walla, mucho light and slide into place. If switching wires doesn't work, I would first think of a fuse. If you have a volt/ohm meter but if you had one you probably already used it. If you ordered, you got two lights, check the other one, see if it works, if not check for a defective fuse. Maybe the 22 is different, I would think not. Hope you find your prob 'cause this thing works good.

TY for your help and congrats on surviving hurricane IAN!