Where is Oil pressure sensor please

[Bfromla]

:dontknow: FYI After proper oil change ; Oil light & code 5024 (low oil), now limp home mode:banghead::banghead: however is full on stick at operating temp186403 have disconnected battery for couple hours for good reboot. Like take a look see if something simple like wire came off, if I can before attempting dealer. TIA

[Peter Aawen]

Have you run it for a few minutes after the oil change?? Often these dry sump jobbies (& wet sump engines too, only to a lesser extent... :rolleyes: ) will drain oil out of the important places so that on re-starting, they might take a few minutes and a little gentle rev or two to build up proper oil pressure again after the change... so there's a good chance your problem & the code above could simply be due to that drained oil & just not running it up for long enough. :dontknow:

After any engine oil change, I usually start them up & let the engines idle for a few minutes; stop & re-check the oil level et al; & either top up/change as necessary. Then, when/if that's all good, I'll do a gentle run-up - if it's a vehicle, a short & gentle ride/drive down the road, only a couple of hundred yards & back, with a couple of gear changes thrown in, especially for those with wet clutches, or a 'run-up' on an aircraft engine. ;)

Just so long as you don't go over-board while doing this ie, don't bang it out to Wide Open Throttle; and you only take a few minutes to do this gently, then you aren't likely to do any real damage; but it should get your oil up to its operating pressure, clear any codes caused by the oil draining, and also pressurise things & run the engine for long enough to make it easy to identify any loose drain plugs &/or other leaks in the process. :ohyea:

Over to you! :thumbup:

[Bfromla]

Have you run it for a few minutes after the oil change?? Often these dry sump jobbies (& wet sump engines too, only to a lesser extent... :rolleyes: ) will drain oil out of the important places so that on re-starting, they might take a few minutes and a little gentle rev or two to build up proper oil pressure again after the change... so there's a good chance your problem & the code above could simply be due to that drained oil & just not running it up for long enough. :dontknow:

After any engine oil change, I usually start them up & let the engines idle for a few minutes; stop & re-check the oil level et al; & either top up/change as necessary. Then, when/if that's all good, I'll do a gentle run-up - if it's a vehicle, a short & gentle ride/drive down the road, only a couple of hundred yards & back, with a couple of gear changes thrown in, especially for those with wet clutches, or a 'run-up' on an aircraft engine. ;)

Just so long as you don't go over-board while doing this ie, don't bang it out to Wide Open Throttle; and you only take a few minutes to do this gently, then you aren't likely to do any real damage; but it should get your oil up to its operating pressure, clear any codes caused by the oil draining, and also pressurise things & run the engine for long enough to make it easy to identify any loose drain plugs &/or other leaks in the process. :ohyea:

Over to you! :thumbup: thanks yes ran some #days &400+ miles when this showed.:sour: is what is confusing, it was running fine till limp home. Being the SE5 have experienced actual low oil shifting problems & those happened with out code or light occurring. So gotta be sensor or connections telling computer wrong info.

[Peter Aawen]

thanks yes ran some #days &400+ miles.....< snip >....

..... So gotta be sensor or connections telling computer wrong info.

Yeah, given the timing after the oil change, it certainly sounds like that! :shocked: Hopefully it IS just wrong info! :thumbup:

[SpyderJerry]

Oil pressure switch is on the right side of engine, bottom side on clutch housing. Close to the bottom radiator hose elbow.

[Bfromla]

Oil pressure switch is on the right side of engine, bottom side on clutch housing. Close to the bottom radiator hose elbow. thank you:thumbup: was afraid under air box or somewhere less accessible.

[megagame]

Check resistance between sensor and ground. It switches between fully opened and fully closed after couple seconds (2s-3s) after start. No change in resistance is a faulty sensor.

[Bfromla]

Finally got to shop 1/5/21 & got update today:sour: it’s not the sensor
:banghead::gaah no oil pressure :dontknow:

[megagame]

Are you sure sensor is ok? This would mean oil pump is damaged.
Did they check oil pressure with gauge?

It should be at least 1,5bar when on idle.

[spyder01]

I think if it just happened after an oil change I would be checking that filter,make sure the o ring are on and are the right ones and that the filter is correct in every way, also make sure that the old filter and all the o ring were removed. Anything left behind could get trapped under the pressure relief valve causing lack of pressure. I hope you didnt drive this without pressure.

[Brad0414]

Finally got to shop 1/5/21 & got update today:sour: it’s not the sensor
:banghead::gaah no oil pressure :dontknow:

hadthat on 2015 f3 blown motor. plastic gear in oil pump broke apart . brp replaced motor under warr,

[Bfromla]

Are you sure sensor is ok? This would mean oil pump is damaged.
Did they check oil pressure with gauge?

It should be at least 1,5bar when on idle.
I trust the shop, sorry don’t know exactly how made determination.

hadthat on 2015 f3 blown motor. plastic gear in oil pump broke apart . brp replaced motor under warr,
Unfortunately no warranty left here :banghead: & is the 998 & only 66k miles


I think if it just happened after an oil change I would be checking that filter,make sure the o ring are on and are the right ones and that the filter is correct in every way,also make sure that the old filter and all the o ring were removed.Anything left behind could get trapped under the pressure relief valve causing lack of pressure.I hope you didnt drive this without pressure.
Again trusting the other shop that did the change. & waiting to hear what current shop finds, have requested pics. Unfortunately did run little bit, Not knowing this condition. (Repeated test & moving around yard, loading on trailer.)

[Brad0414]

I trust the shop, sorry don’t know exactly how made determination.

Unfortunately no warranty left here :banghead: & is the 998 & only 66k miles


Again trusting the other shop that did the change. & waiting to hear what current shop finds, have requested pics. Unfortunately did run little bit, Not knowing this condition. (Repeated test & moving around yard, loading on trailer.)

good luck sorry to hear .

[Possible]

Well, my thought is, it was running fine before it went to the shop. Now it isn't running fine after getting it back
from the shop. Consider the common theme: "the shop". And if a guy working on it screwed up, he may, or may
not, own up to his mistake. But I would certainly think the problem lies with the shop.

[Freddy]

hadthat on 2015 f3 blown motor. plastic gear in oil pump broke apart . brp replaced motor under warr,

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?55415-oil-light-on-black-shards-of-metal-came-out-of-the-engine-drain-hole&highlight=black+shards

[Brad0414]

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?55415-oil-light-on-black-shards-of-metal-came-out-of-the-engine-drain-hole&highlight=black+shards

thanks for the thread nice read

[Bfromla]

Lil update: apparently the plastic oil pump:dontknow::banghead: is shot from parts from the clutch. Shop sent some pics187217187218187219187220 think is the clutch hub, sorry not for sure.

[Possible]

One hopes there will be a total disassembly of the engine after looking at that mess.

[Haze]

So sorry to hear about the oil pressure issue.
At least you know the problem. Is this tied into the trouble you had this past summer?
Good luck with the repairs.

[Bfromla]

So sorry to hear about the oil pressure issue.
At least you know the problem. Is this tied into the trouble you had this past summer?
Good luck with the repairs.
Thank you & still unknown

[PMK]

Not that it matters since someone else is accomplishing the repairs, the two gears are about $40 total. Not sure if the pump pickup screen is accessible from the clutch cover side or requires splitting the center case. If the pickup screen can be washed, either by removal or back flushing, that should have caught the debris.

We know one gear is plastic, ideally both are. If so, the debris is unlikely to mechanically harm the gearbox and oil to the engine is filtered and will capture it.

Hopefully a couple gears, quick cleaning of the pickup screen, reassemble and go. Ideally the nanny saved the motor and when they drained the oil, there is no indications of running with zero oil pressure.

Others with Spyders using the same engine should replace those inexpensive drive and driven gears before failure. Simply good preventative maintenance.

14 and 16 are the two gears, 18 is the pick up screen

[Bfromla]

Bummed about current situation had a thought:
Understand the drain plugs have magnetic tips to catch shavings and pieces. However only get seen possibly at oil change intervals, :dontknow: if same could be picked up by dip stick that is viewed more often, hopefully Leading to early discovery of potentially serious conditions. :popcorn: Believe might be more acceptable as :spyder2: dipsticks don’t snake through straw like tubes as most engines. What y’all Motörhead’s think ? Please

[Possible]

I've never seen a magnetic dip stick and don't really feel like they would do much. JMO of course.

[Bfromla]

Update got it back yesterday 3/11 (65days in shop) repaired/replaced parts list: Oil pumps & clutch, hydra piston & disk kit, oil pressure switch, pump housing, pump shaft. Ride home was hiccup free, aside from little adjustments getting reacquainted with the saddle.:p but back to 3 :riding::riding::yes::doorag:

[Peter Aawen]

Update got it back yesterday 3/11 .....
...Ride home was hiccup free.....
...but back to 3 :riding: :riding: :yes: :doorag:

Good to hear! :thumbup:

Now get out there!! :lecturef_smilie: You've got a lot of ryding to catch up on! :rolleyes:

:cheers:

[pegasus1300]

What did they attribute the broken gear to. Age or other problem. Is this something us VTwin owners need to be concerned about as our mileage climbs. I am at 63,000+ now.

[Bfromla]

What did they attribute the broken gear to. Age or other problem. Is this something us VTwin owners need to be concerned about as our mileage climbs. I am at 63,000+ now.
Was told Shavings from clutch That got too hot some how, & would probably to fail next

[stant52]

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?55415-oil-light-on-black-shards-of-metal-came-out-of-the-engine-drain-hole&highlight=black+shards

You found those pieces in the crankcase when you drained oil ? not the oil tank correct ? Thanks