Is there a bulb chart anywhere??

[MrMagicFingers]

Hey Everyone...

I have a question that has led to another question...

I took apart the dash to my wife's 2010 RTS to disable the fuel and temp gauges. I suspect the fuel gauge is not as accurate as it could be so I wanted to try the digital one for a while.

We have only had the bike not quite 2 weeks but I did notice that the light was gone on the fuel gauge. To my surprise, I found that the fuel gauge had an LED light in it. (See pics)

My first question is... is the LED bulb standard in the two separate gauges or has someone replaced them in the past from incandescent bulbs.

Second question... (and I have searched this site) is there a chart of the replacement bulb types. I E the bulb numbers like 9005 for headlight or tail light numbers etc. I didn't see in the hand book or service manual any replacement bulb numbers.

I'm just curious as I will be replacing the Headlights and Driving/Fog lights sometime soon. I am also going to reproduce some of the Idiot lights from the dash onto the bezel that the disconnected gauges are currently in. I think removing the gauges, adding a slot blank in their place and adding turn signals, fuel warning, oil light etc (just critical ones) has its benefits.

As I look around this "new to her" bike I can see where people have been in butchering the wiring. For example there are LED strips all around the bike (which my wife loves) but who ever put them in used CAT5 networking cable to connect to them. Lots of "twisted" connections and electrical tape.

Thanks, Tim

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

In your owners manual there should be a chart ..... I think that's a standard T-10 socket and LED ..... Mike :roflblack:

[Bfromla]

Being as I can’t keep track of things like that I bring old one to batteries +bulbs & let them fig it out.:ani29:

[MrMagicFingers]

Yes... I know what kind of bulb it is.

I was just wondering if the gas/temp gauges came from factory with LED's installed. In general, if the bike didn't come with LED's and only incandescent, it should say somewhere the wattage of the bulb needed.

I will check the book again. I didn't see a chart or anything that showed the model number of the bulbs (all bulbs) of the bike.

Tim

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I am also going to reproduce some of the Idiot lights from the dash onto the bezel that the disconnected gauges are currently in. I think removing the gauges, adding a slot blank in their place and adding turn signals, fuel warning, oil light etc (just critical ones) has its benefits.
That you won't be doing! Those lights are all integral to the cluster which is a totally sealed self contained limited purpose computer module! They're probably not even bulbs, just leds soldered to a printed circuit board. I can't say for certain but other than power, ground, and signal leads, all the other inputs and outputs of the cluster are CANbus.

Welcome to the world of digital vehicles! :gaah: About the only things on the Spyder not digitally controlled are the horn, lights (except turn signals), grip heaters, and ????? :D

[MrMagicFingers]

That you won't be doing! Those lights are all integral to the cluster which is a totally sealed self contained limited purpose computer module!


Yes... I more than likely will. I am not afraid of stuff like this. Part of what I do for a living. I deal with surface mount components/electronics all the time. I replaced the background lighting in my wife's Silverwing and many other Silverwings as well. I have a great reflow station and a great lab type area to do this in. So this I can handle. Can't remember if this one was my wife or someone else's that was sent in to me. This is a non issue for me.

What I don't understand is how the 2010 RTS cluster design ever made it into production. Clearly no daytime testing was done on it. You can't see most of the lights during the daytime. Nice to look at and visually appealing but you just read the status indicators. :banghead:

I would move over the L/R signals, temp, brake, engine, oil, and gas.

Tim

[Eckhard]

Please document it so others can follow in your footsteps. Have fun.

[safecracker]

Check your contrast setting. If was ever set to zero for night riding and never changed back it would be set to default, which is 40. Something to check. Also if the sun shines on the display to long it will fade. I always pull the safety card/visor out.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Yes... I more than likely will. I am not afraid of stuff like this. Part of what I do for a living. I deal with surface mount components/electronics all the time. I replaced the background lighting in my wife's Silverwing and many other Silverwings as well. I have a great reflow station and a great lab type area to do this in. So this I can handle. Can't remember if this one was my wife or someone else's that was sent in to me. This is a non issue for me.

What I don't understand is how the 2010 RTS cluster design ever made it into production. Clearly no daytime testing was done on it. You can't see most of the lights during the daytime. Nice to look at and visually appealing but you just read the status indicators. :banghead:

I would move over the L/R signals, temp, brake, engine, oil, and gas.

Tim
Hey, that's great! Please pardon me for underestimating your expertise! :banghead: Based on my experience here on the forum you are one in 23,086! You ain't no ordinary everyday Spyder owner, that's for sure!

There have been quite a few instances where we have wondered just how much user testing did BRP do before releasing a product to the market.

[MrMagicFingers]

Check your contrast setting. If was ever set to zero for night riding and never changed back it would be set to default, which is 40. Something to check. Also if the sun shines on the display to long it will fade. I always pull the safety card/visor out.

I will look into this tomorrow morning.

Like I said earlier, I got this Spyder for my wife only 2 weeks ago and was a 3.5+ hour trip home... half of that was night and about 110 km of the trip was in London pea soup type fog. That being said, I did notice that the background of the LCD went from the grey/white to a dark blue I presumed for night time use automatically. I didn't know that there were brightness settings for the LEDs that go around the inside of the spedo and tach.

No fading on any part of this Spyder... always a garage kept lady.

Tim

[MrMagicFingers]

Check your contrast setting. If was ever set to zero for night riding and never changed back it would be set to default, which is 40. Something to check. Also if the sun shines on the display to long it will fade. I always pull the safety card/visor out.


I did check into this today... the contrast control is only for the LCD panel and not the indicator bulbs unless there is a hidden setting in there that adjusts that. :(

Tim