Fuel Line is short

[xpeschon]

I started to take a look at doing the Air Cleaner modification so I took off all the plastic on both sides just to match the pictures that Lamonster and other members have posted in reference to the modification, I then went the extra step and took off the air cleaner cover to take a look at the air cleaner filter,,, for sure after inspection of the air-cleaner housing I plan on doing this mod in the next couple of days for sure cause there was oil over in the housing, I wiped it down the best I could to get it all out then assembled it.. Then I started to take a look at the fuel lines cause I remember a member talking about the fuel line that runs from the fuel filter to the carb being a bit short,,, Well again you all are correct, it appears to me that the fuel line running from the tank to the filter seems to be about the right length and all the way on the filter housing,, Now when inspecting the fuel line from the filter to the carb it is a bit short and stretched for sure,, there is about a 1/4 inch gap where the fuel line slides into the filter, its past the nipple and its cripped but again the fuel line does not meet the fuel filter housing leaving the gap explained above... I then traced the fuel line best I could and it actually touches the head of one cylinder then follows to the carb, NOT good in my eyes,, I could not see where it actually is attached to the carb but again this hose appears to be stretched and NOT on the fuel filter all the way like it should be...
Any thoughts on this?
Concerned in Mo!!
Joe

[Mo Lee]

My fuel line from the filter to the throttle body is not touching the head and does have a protective shield around it. I'm more interested in the charcoal cannister theory. Another thing does anyone know of the exact location of the time delay module that keeps the power on for so many seconds after you shut off the key, it makes me curious since it seems like most of the fires had a delay factor to them.

[bjt]

My fuel line from the filter to the throttle body is not touching the head and does have a protective shield around it. I'm more interested in the charcoal cannister theory. Another thing does anyone know of the exact location of the time delay module that keeps the power on for so many seconds after you shut off the key, it makes me curious since it seems like most of the fires had a delay factor to them.

At least two of the reported fires started before the Spyder was shut off.

[NancysToy]

I just inspected the lines on our 2008 PE Spyder. The front fuel line does not appear to be terribly short, but it is running in a bad direction, and is cramped by the airbox so it is difficult to run elsewhere...or support. It is rubbing against the head, and shows some minimal wear damage at the point of contact. It is going to have to be replaced and run in split loom to protect it. Trouble is that it entails removing the entire airbox, installing a fuel line and the split loom, then new Oetiker clamps. New clamps for the airbox connections as well. I don't have an Oetiker clamp kit, nor does the kit have the correct size stepless clamps for the fuel line, so I am going to need to order both (at considerable cost) before I can proceed. Looks like the Spyder will be out of business for a while, since I am having surgery in a bit over a week, and will not be able to work in the garage for a while. Maybe I can get the software update done before then, at any rate, if the dealer can squeeze me in.

This is a worrisome thing, and I urge all Spyder owners to remove the body panels, crawl on their knees with a strong light, and thoroughly inspect their front fuel line. I am not saying that this was the cause of any major problems...jury is still out on that, but it is a potential safety hazard that should be addressed!

[xpeschon]

Wonder why in the heck BRP would have ran the fuel lines the way they did and to add to it the length of the fuel line, all this is again really starting to concern me, as for the delay module I can't help you out there Mo Lee above me, I'm sure someone will charm in on that one..
Joe

[NancysToy]

Well, I was able to start some 3/4" split loom near the fuel filter and slide it forward until the entire head area was protected. Unable to get a second tie-wrap in place, but it should stay put, and provide some needed protection. My fuel line looks long enough to clear better, but the angle they have it twisted makes the slack loop downward. Don't know a different position would help, anyway, as gravity eventually wins. This area is very tight to the airbox and other lines, cables, and wires, so there is not much room to get by the head here, and no good place to tie the line away from the head. It will take some major work to get the airbox out, reroute a longer fuel line, and get things covered and secured. It will have to wait until I can get an Oetiker clamp kit, and recover from my surgery sufficiently to get down on the floor to work again. For now, this should take care of it.

[Firefly]

Some pics of my findings-- so you guys will know what to feel/look for.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13060

The newer Spyders come with the fuel lines wrapped with the split loom stuff. This tells me that BRP knows they goofed.

They had the EXACT same problem (check the thread above) with some Ski-Doo's recently--- recalled due to fire hazard of fuel line rubbing on head.

[jeff0110]

Where did you buy the wrap for the fuel and coolant lines? Is it an adhesive backed wrap?

[xpeschon]

Firefly: I looked at the threat you did.. What a nice job,, I'm thinking you should forward these to BRP and see what they have to say, you have some PROOF that maybe they need to be aware of... I am thinking that we are all in trouble down the road, and down the road is going to be to late!!! It is obvious that eventually the way the fuel lines are ran through out the engine area that they can not withstand excessive amount of heat and wear and tear, I must have missed that threat you posted.. GREAT info and I am going to look into doing some of this work when I get the parts for the Air-Cleaner mod which I plan on doing like yesturday right??

Joe

Thanks for the info

[Firefly]

I used some left-over DEI tunnel wrap I had--- probably not the first choice you should use--- it was just handy.

BRP now uses that 1/2 loom plastic stuff that some of the other cables are wrapped in - can get it at most hardware / home improvement stores I would think. The same stuff many of the electrical wires are wrapped in--- looks like that black flexible drainage hose--- but small.

I think that is what Scotty just did. I would do it that way --- AND use a few zip ties to pull it away from the engine head.

I personally wouldn't change the fuel line to a longer one --- I would make the dealer do it. If you do it and use different clamps, etc. and something happens - BRP is gonna point the finger at you.

[3wheeldemon]

Firefly: I looked at the threat you did.. What a nice job,, I'm thinking you should forward these to BRP
Thanks for the info

:agree::bowdown: I am glad too to discover that posting...


3WD

[NancysToy]

BRP now uses that 1/2 loom plastic stuff that some of the other cables are wrapped in - can get it at most hardware / home improvement stores I would think. The same stuff many of the electrical wires are wrapped in--- looks like that black flexible drainage hose--- but small.

I think that is what Scotty just did. I would do it that way --- AND use a few zip ties to pull it away from the engine head.
That is exactly what I did. Same type of stuff the Spyder wires are already routed through. No room or access with the stock airbox to tie the line away from the head, though. Can't hurt to ask.


I personally wouldn't change the fuel line to a longer one --- I would make the dealer do it. If you do it and use different clamps, etc. and something happens - BRP is gonna point the finger at you.
I agree that you should not do this without the OEM-style clamps, which are Oetiker stepless one ear clamps, not the standard one ear or two ear variety, and definitely not the typical screw type hose clamps. These clamps are sized specifically for the hose, and use a special tool to install them. I would be surprised if BRP would agree to reroute the hose, however. If you pay the dealer they might do it, but it would depend on the dealer. Time is going to tell whether any of the dealers correct this under warranty, and what approach they take.