Help! Questions about Spyder F3-S (SE6)

[larrymz3]

Hey all! Long time not talk! Previous Spyder owner (GS, RS, Several RT's), but, I've been away from the Spyder world for a few years while I concentrated on other hobbies.

I'm ready to come back and have an opportunity to pick up a 2015 F3-S (SE6) with 8400 miles on it for $10k. Bone stick except for windshield and bags.

Is this a good deal? I've been on a few dealer sites as well as eBay, Cycletrader, and KBB and this seems like a decent price, but, I definitely want to be sure that I could get my money out of it should I desire (including sales tax, etc.)

What are some things I should check to ensure the bike is 100%? Tires look ok, and bike rides great. Is there an OBD2 plug that I can plug my scanner into to check codes?

Any major differences between a 2015 and newer models?

Finally, what are some absolute must have mods? I never can leave well enough alone, so, I figured the cat delete and LED headlight conversion would be first.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hey all! Long time not talk! Previous Spyder owner (GS, RS, Several RT's), but, I've been away from the Spyder world for a few years while I concentrated on other hobbies.

I'm ready to come back and have an opportunity to pick up a 2015 F3-S (SE6) with 8400 miles on it for $10k. Bone stick except for windshield and bags.

Is this a good deal? I've been on a few dealer sites as well as eBay, Cycletrader, and KBB and this seems like a decent price, but, I definitely want to be sure that I could get my money out of it should I desire (including sales tax, etc.)

What are some things I should check to ensure the bike is 100%? Tires look ok, and bike rides great. Is there an OBD2 plug that I can plug my scanner into to check codes?

Any major differences between a 2015 and newer models?

Finally, what are some absolute must have mods? I never can leave well enough alone, so, I figured the cat delete and LED headlight conversion would be first.

IMHO , that model, with that trans. at that price, is a very good price, if you can get a dealer to run the VIN so you have an idea of it's history, that would be even better..... my only concern is ....is the seller real ..... good luck ..... Mike :thumbup:

[troop]

Looks like he was able to physically see it and ride it..

"What are some things I should check to ensure the bike is 100%? Tires look ok, and bike rides great. Is there an OBD2 plug that I can plug my scanner into to check codes?"

[larrymz3]

Yes, the seller is real, and yes, I have physical access to the bike and test drove it this weekend.

I ran the VIN through a few sites and no history - I'll check with the dealer, although I suspect they won't have much as the guy is military and told me he did the oil changes himself to save money.

I was hoping I could use my OBD2 scanner and see if there were any codes, but, can't find any info on whether there is a standard OBD2 plug on the bike.

[blacklightning]

The 2015 F3 is a pretty solid bike. As stated above, if you can have the dealership check the vin, then you should be good. I would take a minute to remove the front cover and check the sprocket for the dreaded red dust. That could be an indication of front sprocket failure. That is not a big deal, but just the one thing to be aware of for that model. Good luck.

[larrymz3]

The 2015 F3 is a pretty solid bike. As stated above, if you can have the dealership check the vin, then you should be good. I would take a minute to remove the front cover and check the sprocket for the dreaded red dust. That could be an indication of front sprocket failure. That is not a big deal, but just the one thing to be aware of for that model. Good luck.


Red rust? How would I check that? Any details on this sprocket failure?

[jwulf74]

Could be wrong... but since it's a CanBus system there will be no possibility to use an OBD2 scanner.

I would assume though that there should be a way to pull any active codes like on the RT's and F3T's and F3LTD's.

[blacklightning]

Red rust? How would I check that? Any details on this sprocket failure?
Just remove the front plastic cover (either 3 or 4 screws). If the pulley looks to be covered in red dust, then I have heard that is the first sign before a failure.

[JayBros]

A Rolo laser alignment would be the first thing you should consider, IMO, and a Bajaron sway bar if it does not already have one.

[Ex-Rocket]

As mentioned above to check Vin # with a dealer would be a good move on your part. Also the front pulley was a problem on the early F3's. If both of them check out then I think its a pretty good deal. What part of Arkansas you reside in?

[BearBait]

Second the motion on the BajaRon swaybar.