Official BRP Coil Pack fix

[Tripod]

Has anyone gotten their Spyder coil pack fixed with the BRP parts? Has anyone been given, or heard, of an expected date the dealers will have these parts? I was stricken by the malady yesterday, twice. It wouldn't go into gear, then when it did it wouldn't upshift. Yes, it's an SE-5. This was the first ride after the steering fix...it's getting tedious folks !

Tripod :gaah:

[Longlegs]

Are you talking about the ground wire deal? My dealer has the new 3 way ground harness waiting for me to bring it in.

[krb1945]

own harness. It took all of 15 minutes to do up the harness and install it to the frame. The SE5 is shifting better and the SM5 doesn't seem to miss on rough roads like it did before the mod. I used 12 ga wire with an extra crimp. The SM5 I don't believe it was in the BRP modification but I did it anyway because it missed some at low speed when on rough roads.

It is a simple thing to do for anyone with just basic skill levels. Good or expert skills you're done almost before you get started.

[wanabegood]

I had my 09 SE5 updated to resolve the ground wire and steering issues. The two recalls resolved my problems with backfiring ( i have a hindel), and occassional problem with downshift gear slippage. Power steering is nice and smooth at any speed.

[GaryTheBadger]

There's got to be another Spyder owner in So Cal who can cut, crimp, solder and install a couple of wires for you.

[bjt]

(I did my) own harness. It took all of 15 minutes to do up the harness and install it to the frame. The SE5 is shifting better and the SM5 doesn't seem to miss on rough roads like it did before the mod. I used 12 ga wire with an extra crimp. The SM5 I don't believe it was in the BRP modification but I did it anyway because it missed some at low speed when on rough roads.

It is a simple thing to do for anyone with just basic skill levels. Good or expert skills you're done almost before you get started.

Like krb1945 says, this is so simple (and cheap) to do it yourself that you shouldn't have to wait for BRP and your dealer to get around to getting the parts and doing this for you if it's the difference between you riding your Spyder or not.

[xpeschon]

I thought there was only one ground wire being installed.. I plan on doing this myself but again I thought it was only one wire,,,, Are you folks installing 2 wires? And if so where does the second one go?? I know where the first one goes but confussed on the other one you guys are talking about... Help me out here,, Pic would be nice if you could provide it..
Thanks in advance\
Joe

[3wheeldemon]

I thought there was only one ground wire being installed.. I plan on doing this myself but again I thought it was only one wire,,,, Are you folks installing 2 wires? And if so where does the second one go?? I know where the first one goes but confussed on the other one you guys are talking about... Help me out here,, Pic would be nice if you could provide it..
Thanks in advance
Joe

Check this thread, post #8:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=129066&highlight=ground+wire+picture#post129066

3WD

[bone crusher]

own harness. It took all of 15 minutes to do up the harness and install it to the frame. The SE5 is shifting better and the SM5 doesn't seem to miss on rough roads like it did before the mod. I used 12 ga wire with an extra crimp. The SM5 I don't believe it was in the BRP modification but I did it anyway because it missed some at low speed when on rough roads.

It is a simple thing to do for anyone with just basic skill levels. Good or expert skills you're done almost before you get started.

Interesting...there is no coil wire fix for the SM5. BRP said no need as all problems were with the SE5...can't do any harm putting it in the manual, but it shouldn't affect anything...

[Tom in NM]

. . . . at my dealership on 7/24. They only heard about the Recall and Wire Warranty work when they plugged in my SE5. Of course, they did not have the wire parts so they ordered them. They use the term; "Back Ordered", as often as some people use the phrase; "You know?".

I stopped in 8/7 to ask if it was in, after 45 minutes of them checking inventory and looking around, "Oh, we were just going to call you."

I am scheduled for installation on 8/13. (by the way, it is a free warranty fix on my SE5 - not sure if it is free for SM5s)

Bottom line seems to be that the BRP Wire parts seem to be available within a week or so, if the Dealership orders them.

Tom

[Tripod]

There's got to be another Spyder owner in So Cal who can cut, crimp, solder and install a couple of wires for you.

I'm capable of doing the fix. It's a matter of timing. The Spyder is going in this week for a new GPS so I don't want to do it if it can be done while it's in the shop. I'm just trying to determine from members if their dealers have the "official" parts in-house. If mine doesn't, I'll do myself.

Tripod :doorag:

[bone crusher]

. . . . at my dealership on 7/24. They only heard about the Recall and Wire Warranty work when they plugged in my SE5. Of course, they did not have the wire parts so they ordered them. They use the term; "Back Ordered", as often as some people use the phrase; "You know?".

I stopped in 8/7 to ask if it was in, after 45 minutes of them checking inventory and looking around, "Oh, we were just going to call you."

I am scheduled for installation on 8/13. (by the way, it is a free warranty fix on my SE5 - not sure if it is free for SM5s)

Bottom line seems to be that the BRP Wire parts seem to be available within a week or so, if the Dealership orders them.

Tom

The SM5 is NOT covered...not needed...some here are doing it anyway, but BRP did not find a problem with the SM5s...(we still have other recall stuff to do though)...

[Badasz]

Had the same problem with my :spyder:an SE5 after the gnd wire fix and the recall fix. Couldn't shift out of gears and wouldn't automatically down shift. It seemed to be an intermittent problem :dontknow: as for two days it was acting up before I went to the dealer :gaah:. On that day I started it and it went to "N" so I drove it out it shifted fine :dontknow:. I know its probably just a bad component I hope they can find it.

[krb1945]

on the recall for the coil ground. Rather that is what I was told. The reason I put it on my SM is because I get on some pretty rough roads and I was getting a low speed miss when bouncing over them.

I had noticed the coil system was not a rigid mount... semi flexible... and I thought it may be losing the ground intermittently. After I installed the ground from the radiator mount bolt to the coil mount bolt and then to the frame ground bolt it no longer has that little miss when bouncing over the washboard.

All should bare in mind the spyder is still an experimental machine and we will find various little adjustments such as more or better grounds will make them run better because they are controlled by computers.

If we keep doing this :chat: we will all gain from each other.

[Studybaker Bob]

Sounds like some of your problems are like some of mine. Carlo of CanAm service has authorized the installation of the new & improved gear box position sensor 2008 se5. Suposedly this will cure other rough running & shifting symptoms &/or problems. Hopefully will be installed sometime next week. Will keep you updated.

[Tom in NM]

Sounds like some of your problems are like some of mine. Carlo of CanAm service has authorized the installation of the new & improved gear box position sensor 2008 se5. Suposedly this will cure other rough running & shifting symptoms &/or problems. Hopefully will be installed sometime next week. Will keep you updated.

. . . . what the "new" and "improvements" are?

I am fine. My 2008 SE5 is doing real well - so far, and I have the extended warranty. But, it would be nice to know what improvements were made. ( as if I could understand them and what the impacts are )

Just wondering,

Tom

[ataDude]

. . . . what the "new" and "improvements" are?

I am fine. My 2008 SE5 is doing real well - so far, and I have the extended warranty. But, it would be nice to know what improvements were made. ( as if I could understand them and what the impacts are )

Just wondering,

Tom

Some of the Generation I Gear Position Sensors had a few internal solder problems which caused some random signals (and steering problems) on the CANBUS / processors.

Gen II was released last fall. The only "new and improved" concerned the previously inferior solder quality.

See this thread for the complete background:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7831
.

[Tom in NM]

Some of the Generation I Gear Position Sensors had a few internal solder problems which caused some random signals (and steering problems) on the CANBUS / processors.

Gen II was released last fall. The only "new and improved" concerned the previously inferior solder quality.

See this thread for the complete background:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7831
.

Thanks for the info. Greatly appreciated.

Tom

[xpeschon]

After all the talk about the grounding strap I decided to do this last night. Went very well. Thanks for the info.. I didn't notice a change to anything like better shifting, sounds from the engine. I drove it to work today and for the first time I did hear a strange noice though that kind of alarmed me a bit,, as it automaticlly shifted from 2nd to 1st as I was slowing down for a stop sign there was a funny POP that came from the engine area, kind of sounded like bike tire that just ran over a nail and popped,, Any thoughts on this? other then that it seems to be fine..

Joe

[Tom in NM]

. . . Coil Pack Fix / Grounding wire done at my (former) dealership today. I got to see it before it went in, it is just one wire, but it is in a Y configuration. There were some bolts and washers and plastic tie downs in the pack. I would have liked to read the print-out of the BRP Service/Warranty Bulletin that they had printed out ( it looked like it was about 5 pages, but it could have had some others combined with it ), but I don't think those are for mere mortals.

Took about an hour, but they didn't work all that time on it. Probably less than 15 minutes.

I had no problems before and noticed nothing after - as it should be.

I don't know if anyone posted what the Official wiring looks like, but if anyone is interested, weather permitting, I plan on having the panels off tomorrow and can post the pics.

Let me know.

Tom

[3wheeldemon]

I am very interested Tom, I gave up on waiting for the back-ordered cables and I am going to do it myself. I will like to reproduce the factory setup as much as I can.

Thanks!

3WD

[Tom in NM]

I am very interested Tom, I gave up on waiting for the back-ordered cables and I am going to do it myself. I will like to reproduce the factory setup as much as I can.

Thanks!

3WD

3WD, here is what the official Se5 Ground Wire Warranty wiring it looks like.

Picture 1 is a rough general drawing of the set up.
Two wires coming from one connector.
Connectors on all ends.
The wire is about 1/8 of an inch and black. The Part Tag reads, BRP 710002091 jun REV 0 .
The kit came with 3 plastic ties.
There might have been some washers in the kit.
I didn't see any bolts or nuts, but the bolts are stamped TUZ 8.8 .
Ground 1 (G1) wire run is 6" from tip of connector to tip of connector.
Ground 2 (G2) wire run is 27.5" from tip of connector to tip of conncector.

G2 was tied down at 6" (the tie is just for G2, not both as drawing shows)
G2 was tied to the flex-conduit at the frame bar at 12"
G2 was tied to flex-conduit at 19.5"
See the other pictures for where wires were connected and tied off.
Measurements are close, but not exact.

Picture 2 shows the left side and oil tank.
Bottom red circle shows connection to oil tank & frame.
2nd red circle (up) shows G1 connection point.
3rd red circle (up) shows G2 run and tie down.
4th red circle (up) shows G2 run under frame bar and tie to flex-conduit.

Picture 3 shows the final connection of G2 in the center of the picture.
1st red circle (bottom left) shows G2 1st tie down at 6" just above oil tank.
2nd red circle (up) shows G2 run under the frame bar and tie down to flex-conduit. It is not tied to the frame bar, just the conduit.
3rd red circle - moving towards the pictures upper left corner - shows the run of G2 to its tie down on flex-conduit at around 19.5". From there, you might be able to see it drop down and go behind three different wire bundles to the final connection point.
4th red circle - center of the picture - shows the G2 frame termination point at 27.5" - very close to where the steering shaft goes through the frame.

Picture 4 shows a closer look at G2 terminating on the frame. There are already two (I think) other wires grounded there.

If I were doing it, I would also plan on taking off the Y "yoke" panel running from the seat to the left and right sides of the trunk - to get at the G2 termination point. Probably can be done without it, but it will be tight.

I don't know the gauge of the wire.
I don't know if you need to disconnect the battery when doing this. Since they are ground wires, I would not think so, but I would ask the experts just to make sure.

Tom

[3wheeldemon]

3WD, here is what the official Se5 Ground Wire Warranty wiring it looks like.



This is excellent Tom!:thumbup:. I think a lot of Spyderlovers will benefit form this post. Thank you for taking the time.:clap:

3WD

[spyder08]

My friend has an SE5 and I have a SM5 and we are scheduled for the DPS recall fix and she is scheduled for the coil ground fix on Tuesday. My spyder is running perfectly so hope the DPS fix doesn't mess it up.

[krb1945]

August 12, I was told by the spyder dealer in Lake City FL there is now another spyder ground wire fix. He said it was a wire shield on one of the transmission grounds on the SE5. Unfortunately I did not get to see it because they didn't have the part. It was enroute from Tifton Georgia.

This dealer is pretty good except when it comes to parts or recalled items. I made an appointment for the six hundred mile service on the SE5 and software upgrade on the SE5 and the SM5. These appointments were made more than a week in advance. Got there they only thing they could do was the software updates. They did not have any recall kit parts, no oil filters, no HCM filters, no copper seal washers and no "O" rings. And they did not tell me this until almost 2pm and my SO and I had gotten there a 9:10 am. I asked them why they did not tell me prior to the appointment so I could bring the parts with me. I have every part they needed in my inventory cabinet. Yup... they have my phone number right in their computer right in the appointment.

Sure doesn't give you a warm and fuzzy feeling when it comes to service.

[Pilo]

I did my home-made coil fix yesterday, only from the coil mount bolt to the oil radiator mount bolt (G1).

Rode my SE5 today and it seems to shift a little better now, and no sticking in reverse or 1st, although it might be somewhat early to declare the fix a success... :D

My title question still stands: Why two ground wires...? :dontknow:

If I am not mistaken, somebody in one the forums explained this in layman's terms, but can't find it.

Cheers.

[3wheeldemon]

If I am not mistaken, somebody in one the forums explained this in layman's terms, but can't find it.

Cheers.


it was BJT post #7 from this thread:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=129566#post129566

I also recommend you see post #22 of this one to see the "official" setup:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=132155#post132155

PS: Getting any cooler in Maracaibo (I mean below 100F)?

Saludos!

3WD

[NancysToy]

I did my home-made coil fix yesterday, only from the coil mount bolt to the oil radiator mount bolt (G1).

Rode my SE5 today and it seems to shift a little better now, and no sticking in reverse or 1st, although it might be somewhat early to declare the fix a success... :D

My title question still stands: Why two ground wires...? :dontknow:

If I am not mistaken, somebody in one the forums explained this in layman's terms, but can't find it.

Cheers.
You are still not well grounded. The oil cooler attaches to the oil tank mount, just like the coil itself. The oil tank is rubber mounted. You need to add the long wire to the frame to get a good ground.

[Pilo]

it was BJT post #7 from this thread:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=129566#post129566

I also recommend you see post #22 of this one to see the "official" setup:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=132155#post132155

PS: Getting any cooler in Maracaibo (I mean below 100F)?

Saludos!

3WD

Hey 3WD:

Thanks for the reminders. I'll install the longer ground wire soon and then see if things improve.

Getting any cooler in Maracaibo in mid-August...? You had to be kidding me...

You know how it gets... Even in December, when locals refer to the 'hielitos' (winter ice), temps still may go from 85 to 100°F...

Saludos, Pilo

P.S.: Never got another e-mail from you. Did you get my answer to your first one?

[3wheeldemon]

Hey 3WD:

Thanks for the reminders. I'll install the longer ground wire soon and then see if things improve.

Getting any cooler in Maracaibo in mid-August...? You had to be kidding me...

You know how it gets... Even in December, when locals refer to the 'hielitos' (winter ice), temps still may go from 85 to 100°F...

Saludos, Pilo

P.S.: Never got another e-mail from you. Did you get my answer to your first one?

I just sent you an e-mail. Please let me know if you need something, it has to be hard having the only Spyder in "Chavezland"

3WD

[Pilo]

You are still not well grounded. The oil cooler attaches to the oil tank mount, just like the coil itself. The oil tank is rubber mounted. You need to add the long wire to the frame to get a good ground.

Scotty:

Yesterday night, after removing all the side-forward tupperware in my SE5 and looking at the main ground lug..., I had second thoughts.

But then, when I finally managed to slip my hand behind the frame member to verify if the lug-nut was tack welded (it wasn't...) :yikes: I decided not to risk losing time, knuckles' skin, and perhaps the even nut, by trying to hold it with some kind of tool small enough to fit in that recessed space.

After verifying the location of the rubber 'grommet', I chose the coils' plate mounting-bolt located directly above them. With a small wire brush I removed a little bit of paint from the back of the mounting bracket plate (which is welded to a tubular frame member) and installed a much shorter ground wire.

Started the SE5 and reversed it out of my garage for a test. No sticking in reverse, no fiddling, no 'E' reading on the dash. Just went into 1st. at the first jab of the paddle.

I'll will ride and test it today more throughly and will report back if any snafus occurs.

Like Lamonster said once: 'ground is ground..., right?' :D

Saludos, Pilo

[bjt]

... Like Lamonster said once: 'ground is ground..., right?' :D

Saludos, Pilo

For the most part but you can run into trouble with having multiple ground points. Sufficient resistance between multiple "grounds" can cause problems. In general, it's best to have one common ground. You can't hardly go wrong with one ground.