Top Rear shock bolt?

[P.W.]

Hello to all,
I have a set of M2 shocks coming in a few weeks and want to have all the info and tools ready for the install.
The front I think I have the tools an info to replace.... and all is ready to go.
The back on the other hand is up in the air. I know the bottom bolt is fairy easy to get to......But the top I'm not so sure.....I haven't up the bike up on a lift yet to look at that top bolt. My question is.....two parts.

1-Do you need any special tools to remove that top bolt? I have a lot of hand tools so I should be OK but wanted to ask if I needed to order anything.
2-Can you remove the top bolt, and shock in general without removing any of the side panels...... can it be done all from below...
Or are you better off working with the panels off?

Thanks for your time and help in advance!!!
P.W.

[Peter Aawen]

1. NO, just the correct sized spanner.

2. YES.

:thumbup:

[P.W.]

Thanks Peter for your help!

P.W.

[P.W.]

Sorry for the dumb question.....But what do I need a spanner wrench for when removing the rear shock?

Thanks Peter for your help!
P.W.

[Peter Aawen]

Terminology, maybe you'd say right sized socket, or spanner, or wrench.... whatever - you just need to be able to undo the nut on the top of the shaft. :thumbup:

[h0gr1der]

When I juggled my rear shock in and out, I found I couldn't quite get to the top bolt and nut at the same time. I ended up removing all the Tupperware and using a long extension and wobble socket on one side, and having a second person on the other holding backup, made this job easier (for me).

[P.W.]

Thanks for the reply's....at least I have an idea of what I'm getting into.
Sounds like I should plan on a day to replace all three shocks!???

P.W.

[trikermutha]

I removed the right side Tupperware, Used a long extension with a 15 MM Socket then the other side held it with a 15mm offset wrench. Did this all myself. Also on a 2014 RT. This was for the rear shock.

Fronts still used a 15mm socket and offset wrench but also used wires ties to keep the shocks compressed to help removal.

Dont think the RTL stock shocks are adjustable which would help with removal. You will see this when you install the M2 shocks

[Peter Aawen]

I'm pretty sure I just used Stubby Open-ended/ratcheting ring spanners on the top without taking ANY of the tupperware or the rear wheel off, but I do have a lift that let's me put the Spyder up off the ground on (high) axle stands. :dontknow:

[P.W.]

Got it!......Sounds like to make the job easier i just need to remove the right side panels.... Once I have the bike up on the lift I'll make my decision and go from there.

P.W.:cheers:

[P.W.]

I forgot....How long should replacing all three shocks take....A day?
I'm pretty mechanically inclined and like to do things myself.

P.W.

[Sarge707]

Let us know when your done. The first time always takes longer?

[P.W.]

Will do! The top three bolts on each shock are going to be a pain....I believe

[T.P.]

John don't sweat the small stuff.

Here is a thread by JETFIXER that will help you https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?131429-2020-RT-Panel-removal

T.P.

[P.W.]

T.P.
I've been know to do that! :D

[P.W.]

If I would have know about the M2 shock upgrade over the winter I would have replaced the rear shock when I replaced the rear tire.....oh well :)

[trikermutha]

The rear shock is not as bad as you think to get in and out. Jack up the bike to give yourself some room to work . I found in my case the fronts to be a PIA because of the length and the plastic arm covers gave little room to get the shocks out. That's where the HD wire ties came into play.