Stupid Belt

[spyder01]

Just ranting here.I put a new Kanine rear tire on yesterday,that was the easy part.Setting the belt tension and getting the belt to ride where I wanted was way too much trouble.Seems like the slightest adjustment you make has it moving over too far.Seems like if they had to put a belt on it then they should have designed an easier system.Ive done this a couple times now and it never gets any easier.Rant over.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Setting the belt tension and getting the belt to ride where I wanted was way too much trouble.Seems like the slightest adjustment you make has it moving over too far.
For a long discussion of my travails getting the alignment just right go here. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?90848-Belt-Alignment-Problem-amp-Question. I finally got it done. See post #14. There are several suggestions that may just help you. As long as you can get the belt to track between the flange and outside edge that is good enough. It moves as you ride and particularly it moves when you back up.

[SpyderAnn01]

Was there a problem with your belt before you changed the tire? If not, you should have left it alone.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Was there a problem with your belt before you changed the tire? If not, you should have left it alone.
That's been said here many times, and for many not changing the adjusters has worked. But for some reason it hasn't for me. I've had to adjust the alignment every time I've changed the rear tire.

Spyder01, Ann's question is directed at you. What was the reason you needed to adjust the alignment?

[SpyderAnn01]

Mac, do you secure the axle adjusters with tape before you remove the axle? That keeps them from moving. We change lots of tires and very rarely do we have to adjust the belt.

[BajaRon]

Belt adjustment can be a very pesky, and frustrating event. Dropping the rear shock bolt is a good start. Which I am assuming you did. Taping or securing the adjusters is also a good step. And maybe a bit of luck doesn't hurt either.

[ARtraveler]

Please don't forget to come back and give us your impressions of the Kanine tire. Many of us are craving that piece of information. :bowdown: :yes:

[2dogs]

As you know, after you get your belt adjusted and as you torque the axle nuts down, the slightest movement of the a axle will make the belt move. To help reduce that movement always tighten the axle nuts in the direction against the adjusters. Hope that helps.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

As you know, after you get your belt adjusted and as you torque the axle nuts down, the slightest movement of the a axle will make the belt move. To help reduce that movement always tighten the axle nuts in the direction against the adjusters. Hope that helps.
Explain please. I can't figure out what you're referring to since bottom side of the axle nut moves in the direction against the adjusters and the top side away from them. In my case four years ago it was the top of the axle nut that pulled the axle away from the adjuster since it had more friction against the swing arm than did the bottom side.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Mac, do you secure the axle adjusters with tape before you remove the axle? That keeps them from moving. We change lots of tires and very rarely do we have to adjust the belt.
Don't remember that I did, but probably not. Remember, the adjusters only keep the axle from moving forward, not backward. If, like in my case, the axle nut wants to creep the axle backwards when you're tightening it, even taping the adjusters isn't going to prevent it from doing so.

[AeroPilot]

Chocking in front of the front wheels, and also using a Wedged chock up against the back of the new rear tire seems to help me, although I put a thin film of grease under the washers and try to only pull up on the axle nut to tighten. A bit of luck may be involved, and like all have said, I usually pull the shock bolt and roll the belt off so as Not to change the adjustors...

[spyder01]

Ok Im back from work.What I did was this,I jacked the tire up by the rear shock bolt with a rubber pad to keep from stressing it.Then I walked off belt which was very easy.I put some tape on adjuster blocks and I also had some yellow marks on axlw washers to show where they were sitting on swing arm.BTW I checked belt tension while tire was still on floor and it wass 140lbs.Took off caliper pulled axle and went to 3 tire shops before I found one willing to do it.Put it back on ,never disturbing anything and the belt wanted to go way far left.At this point the fun began and ended a couple hours later.After a short test ride belt is at 160lbs and tracking in middle like before.I think the problem is keeping the right side fully forward.Someone said put a rod in hollow axle end and use tie down to put some forward pressure on it .Might work but muffler is in way.I haven't got enuf miles on Kanine to pass judgement,its smooth is all I know.

[DougE]

I ran a ratchet strap through the rim and put the hooks on the foot pegs to pull the wheel tight against the adjusters. Tightened the axle and the belt runs right where it did before I changed the tire.

[Cruzr Joe]

Point of clarification ................... the belt is incapable of being smart or stupid, it relies on a human for that purpose.

Anonymous :roflblack: :roflblack:

[spyder01]

I ran a ratchet strap through the rim and put the hooks on the foot pegs to pull the wheel tight against the adjusters. Tightened the axle and the belt runs right where it did before I changed the tire.

That might work

[h0gr1der]

Here's what worked for me. I use a ratchet strap also, but not in the rim as I need to roll the rear wheel to see where the belt ends up on the pulley.

The Spyder has a 5/8" (15.8mm) hole through the axle shaft. With the belt tension at ±175 Lbs (778 Newtons) there is very little chance the left adjuster will come off seat. The right side, not so much. So if you have a 1/2" (25mm) steel rod approximately 20" long you can slide it through the axle and hook a small ratchet strap to the rod protruding from the muffler side and find a pull point (front floorboard mount) to gently apply a few pounds of continuous tension frontward to keep the adjuster caps seated while tightening the bolt on the off side , holding the nut with an open end wrench, until good and snug. I also found a 1/2" drive Kolbalt 36mm standard socket on a torque wrench is short enough to actually get in by the muffler to do the final tighten. I tighten on the drive side first to snug it up, always pushing the wrench down or forward so as to not move the adjusters. Then I remove the ratchet strap and bar and using the torque wrench and short socket, finish tightening on the muffler side, always pulling the wrench up and/or forward on this side. You need to rotate the wheel several times to see where the belt will settle after the adjustments. I take the parking brake off and jack the rear off the ground to do this, and being lazy I use my belt sander to spin the rear wheel. Some folks run the Spyder in gear to do that, too much horsepower for me. Hand or belt sander is fine with me.

[safecracker]

Another method that works well is use a wedge shaped piece of wood,(door stop) and wedge it between right side swing arm and tire. This keeps pressure on adjusters. Bruce

[Mazo EMS2]

Not to throw a wrench in the mix, but just to be clear that you are only spinning the wheel forward....? If you spin it backward, it'll throw the tracking off.

[2dogs]

Explain please. I can't figure out what you're referring to since bottom side of the axle nut moves in the direction against the adjusters and the top side away from them. In my case four years ago it was the top of the axle nut that pulled the axle away from the adjuster since it had more friction against the swing arm than did the bottom side.

One wrench handle up, the other one down.

[Jimshoemaker42]

Pa i lived in fallentimber.

[spyder01]

Another method that works well is use a wedge shaped piece of wood,(door stop) and wedge it between right side swing arm and tire. This keeps pressure on adjusters. Bruce

I like this,seems easy

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I like this,seems easy
Be sure to put it between the swingarm and rim like I show in the thread I link to above. The tire itself is flexible enough that the wedge being between the swingarm and tire will not absolutely keep the axle from moving.

[h0gr1der]

Not to throw a wrench in the mix, but just to be clear that you are only spinning the wheel forward....? If you spin it backward, it'll throw the tracking off.

From my experience only, you rotate the tire forward in the normal direction of travel to settle the belt. I shoot for the 1 credit card width, even though the spec is 1-5mm. You don't want the belt hard on the flange, but I like to run it close to the flange on the rear because (for my Spyder) the belt moves outboard when reversing. If you look at some videos of the belt running, they move about a bit when running normally.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Not to throw a wrench in the mix, but just to be clear that you are only spinning the wheel forward....? If you spin it backward, it'll throw the tracking off.
I've found it works best to turn the wheel in reverse for a little bit after the adjustment. Then turn it forward and check tracking. By running in reverse and then forward, the belt will settle in closer to it's true tracking position.

[2dogs]

I've found it works best to turn the wheel in reverse for a little bit after the adjustment. Then turn it forward and check tracking. By running in reverse and then forward, the belt will settle in closer to it's true tracking position.

Yes. you can rotate the wheel both directions but what you don't want is the belt walking off the sprocket in either direction.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Yes. you can rotate the wheel both directions but what you don't want is the belt walking off the sprocket in either direction.
True, but I've not seen it walk enough to be in danger of coming off if it's somewhere close to proper position.

[2dogs]

Sounds like you're good. Mine walks close to the outer edge in reverse but doesn't go past the edge. It rides the center of the sprocket when going forward.

[Windagetray]

There is a video somewhere wherein the mechanic explains that the easiest way to adjust the belt is with the tire constantly spinning with the weight of the spyder on it as in being on a "treadmill". He made the treadmill from 2 industrial rollers and aluminum frames/spacers on either side. I know he is right about this as every time I had my alignment perfect, it would walk off track and out of alignment when I put the bike back on the ground and took it for a ride. SOOOOO FRUSTRATING.... You know don't you??

So, I finally got it. A year later, stone through the belt, installed a new belt and THAT was more fun than a person deserves! WTH?? I finally got it but, shortly afterward I found this post (on this forum) and a video with this guy using the "treadmill" method. SO, I ordered myself some 1/2" plate aluminum and found some industrial rollers that would hold the weight of the Spyder with room to spare. I haven't built my treadmill yet but, I'm going to have to and soon...

...because, last year for my yearly Spyder upgrade, I thought I would treat myself to a 3-wheel laser alignment. I took it to a dealer in Hanover, PA. I have no idea what they did to the Spyder but, when I got it back, the belt was rubbing the inside flange after a short test ride. I took it immediately back. They adjusted... still no good. Took it back, ...still no good. OH... and it had "acquired" a new BAD vibration. I spent a lot of money to have my Spyder F'd up. The fourth time I took it back, the mechanic was VERY annoyed (yeah... I KNOW how he felt but, I thought HE was the expert... that's why I was paying the big bucks right??) so, I told them to just forget it. I've ridden it a few thousands of miles and no abnormal belt wear. Like I said, I must SOON build my treadmill!

Good luck all...

[h0gr1der]

There is a video somewhere wherein the mechanic explains that the easiest way to adjust the belt is with the tire constantly spinning with the weight of the spyder on it as in being on a "treadmill". He made the treadmill from 2 industrial rollers and aluminum frames/spacers on either side. I know he is right about this as every time I had my alignment perfect, it would walk off track and out of alignment when I put the bike back on the ground and took it for a ride. SOOOOO FRUSTRATING.... You know don't you??

So, I finally got it. A year later, stone through the belt, installed a new belt and THAT was more fun than a person deserves! WTH?? I finally got it but, shortly afterward I found this post (on this forum) and a video with this guy using the "treadmill" method. SO, I ordered myself some 1/2" plate aluminum and found some industrial rollers that would hold the weight of the Spyder with room to spare. I haven't built my treadmill yet but, I'm going to have to and soon...

...because, last year for my yearly Spyder upgrade, I thought I would treat myself to a 3-wheel laser alignment. I took it to a dealer in Hanover, PA. I have no idea what they did to the Spyder but, when I got it back, the belt was rubbing the inside flange after a short test ride. I took it immediately back. They adjusted... still no good. Took it back, ...still no good. OH... and it had "acquired" a new BAD vibration. I spent a lot of money to have my Spyder F'd up. The fourth time I took it back, the mechanic was VERY annoyed (yeah... I KNOW how he felt but, I thought HE was the expert... that's why I was paying the big bucks right??) so, I told them to just forget it. I've ridden it a few thousands of miles and no abnormal belt wear. Like I said, I must SOON build my treadmill!

Good luck all...

I like your moniker, not a lot of folks remember what a windage tray is. I do my belt adjustment a little differently, and my dealer will set the belt at 1050N no matter what I ask of them, which causes my vibration (so I had to learn quick). Long story short I use a ratchet strap on the right/brake side, attached the floorboard bracket at the front and hooked to a 1/2" rod going through the rear axle at the right to keep slight tension forward on the whole assembly. The belt tension on the left/drive side keeps the adjusters tight, the ratchet strap does the same on the other side. I then make small incremental adjustments until 1.- The Krikit II reading makes me happy, and 2.- The belt is running where I want it. I used to spin it by hand (of course, wheel off the ground) but now use my 4" belt sander with an 80 grit belt set at low speed to spin it. Some folks run the engine in gear, but I'm a little leery of my hands around that much spinning mass and horsepower. Just my $.02.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I like your moniker, not a lot of folks remember what a windage tray is.
I had no idea what a windage tray is until I Googled it! As soon as I saw the explanation I said, "That's why the Spyder engine has 'baffle' plates built into the bottom of the crankcase! It's for windage control!

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