Stripped out handlebar bolt :(

[MONK]

I got one of LaMonsters between the bars RAM mounts today and decided to install it on my 2018 RTL. How frickin' difficult could this be, right? Remove the top 2 bolts, install the mount with the 2 (supplied) longer bolts and spacers and that's it. Yeah. NOT the story of MY life. I wanted to break both the top bolts free before I got busy removing them. Got the right one just barely loose (1/16th of a turn) and went to work on the left one. I twisted and grunted and finally the wrench turned! Yea! Crap. The bolt didn't move but it stripped out the inside of the bolt head.

Obviously, once I'm able to remove the bolt, I have the replacements that came with the LaMonster mount. How in the living f*** do I remove that bolt? There's not enough room to get in there with a Dremel and cut a groove so I can use a flat head screwdriver and obviouly no way to get a set of channel locks around it, either.

Does anybody have any suggestions, please? It's not like I can't ride but I need to get that friggin' bolt out of there (preferably without damaging anything else).

(How about a DEAL? If someone comes over to remove the bolt (while I stand every bit of 6' away, inside my house, with the door closed, wearing a face mask, and gloves), I'll give them a brand new roll of generic TOILET PAPER!)

[ris]

Get a good quality Allen socket. Heat up the head of the bolt.Insert the Allen socket into the head of the bolt. Tap it with a hammer then turn it out with a ratchet.

[MONK]

Here's a pic of the bolt head. Not sure what good an Allen wrench/socket will do. I don't have a torch but I suppose I can buy one. I've got a good set of Allen's. I sure don't want to destroy 1 just to try to get this friggin' bolt out. I still don't know why it wouldn't turn. I get using blue loctite but could it have red loctite on it? Superglue? A new glue made with oxyniacilathatium? (I just made that up.)

[MrMagicFingers]

I'd use the allen wrench and strike it a few hard times with a hammer. Pick up a cheap allen wrench if you don't want to wack your good set.

Next, use the appropriate allen socket and try to TIGHTEN it a wee bit. Then go for a full on removal. You don't want to cut into the bolt to try a screw driver. You will weaken the head and it might shatter.

You have time on your side. Try some penetrating oil too.

Tim

[RICZ]

First I'll state that I have had a food machine repair biz for over 40 years and had to deal with way too many seized, stuck, frozen and corroded fasteners.
BRP set you up for this as they are to generous with Loctite. Here's how I'd deal with your problem....
+ Place a punch that just fits in the allen recess and with hammer, give it a few whacks.
+ Loctite will soften with heat - if using a torch be super careful you don't scorch finishes surround the bolt. Could be a hair dryer might suffice.
+ It can't hurt to put a good penetrate in the hole - not WD-40 - Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster in that order of preference.
+ I hope you have an allen socket for this step; place the socket on a wrench handle (non ratcheting is preferable) and tap the handle with a hammer.
+ If the above doesn't do the job, then it's time to drill the thing out, but you REALLY need to know what you're doing.
+ In the future, when removing fasteners that fight back, use the above steps.

[Revalden]

First I'll state that I have had a food machine repair biz for over 40 years and had to deal with way too many seized, stuck, frozen and corroded fasteners.
BRP set you up for this as they are to generous with Loctite. Here's how I'd deal with your problem....
+ Place a punch that just fits in the allen recess and with hammer, give it a few whacks.
+ Loctite will soften with heat - if using a torch be super careful you don't scorch finishes surround the bolt. Could be a hair dryer might suffice.
+ It can't hurt to put a good penetrate in the hole - not WD-40 - Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster in that order of preference.
+ I hope you have an allen socket for this step; place the socket on a wrench handle (non ratcheting is preferable) and tap the handle with a hammer.
+ If the above doesn't do the job, then it's time to drill the thing out, but you REALLY need to know what you're doing.
+ In the future, when removing fasteners that fight back, use the above steps.

Ricz, couldn't you heat the allen wrench in the bolt head to transfer the heat to keep from affecting the surrounding Tupperware?

[merlot]

maybe you could drill the head off it

then take out the other 3 bolts(hopefully),remove the cap and use a heat gun on the remaining stud,before you undo with multigrips(the locking kind)

those bolts are too tight otherwise......you do need a heat gun imho

russ

[Bfromla]

Here's a pic of the bolt head. Not sure what good an Allen wrench/socket will do. I don't have a torch but I suppose I can buy one. I've got a good set of Allen's. I sure don't want to destroy 1 just to try to get this friggin' bolt out. I still don't know why it wouldn't turn. I get using blue loctite but could it have red loctite on it? Superglue? A new glue made with oxyniacilathatium? (I just made that up.) had similar problem on rear brakes while back :banghead::banghead: & seriously worried about whacking caliper with hammer. Thankfully was resolved with good couple soak & sit overnight with marvel mystery oil
(great at penetrating) & EZ out :clap::thumbup: opted to drill 1 size up for a better bite, a medium tap from hammer , fair amount of torque (short T handle came with ez kit) 180431 & luckily found replacement on eBay came with springs180432 *note* few threads & no locktight.

[PinkRosePetal]

A couple of tries... Firstly, as you know it's really tight so no Micky Mouse gentle heating or using an easy-out is going to do it. The real solution is as Merlot suggests, drill off the head and remove the other bolts and the bars then use a stud extractor to remove the remains of the bolt. There will be plenty of length for you to get a purchase on and you will have room to apply serious heat.

But before doing that you could try using a torx bit just one size up from the hex size. Whack it in really hard, you may find a combination of the tight fit and hammer blows will get it done. Grind the small lead taper off the torx bit to give you a cutting edge and also to get it deep into the hex hole. An impact driver might help.

It might be possible the weld a larger nut into the top of the bolt by welding down the hole, the welding heat will help too but you're definitely into dangerous territory....

From your picture it looks as though you still have a small bit of hex within the hole and also you've not kept the tool square to the bolt shank while pulling, it's come out with a twist and pasted the hole edge. The hex size is 7mm, nothing else will do, don't try removing the other bolts unless you've got the exact size in a quality hex driver. No Imperial equivalent!

Good luck with it...

[MrMagicFingers]

You can add heat to the equation though it would be tricky. If you use a mini torch you can add heat to it in a precise manor.

Mini torches may not have a huge flame but they can produce a small, manageable hot flame. Aiming this into the bolt head will transfer heat down the bolt shaft. You may have to cycle it as in 20 second heat and 20 seconds off repeated if you feel that something may be damaged. Doing that along with a set of "easy outs" that that Bfromla had shown above should work.

Drilling should be a last resort.

Tim

180433 180434

[MONK]

Thanks for the replies, guys and gals. A bit more info about me. I don't have a garage (or carport) and my tools are limited. I don't have a torch although I can get one of those mini torches MrMagicFingers mentioned. I've got some decent Torx bits so maybe between heating up the bolt head and beating the crap out of the Torx bit, I can get it free.

merlot mentioned something about removing the other bolts and then removing the bars. I didn't think the bars could be removed on an RT w/o removing most of the front tupperware?

Unfortunately, I'm one of those guys who can bugger up even the simplest task. I wouldn't dare try to drill anything out. The modifications I've done/are doing are simple unbolt the old/bolt on the new kind of things. It was all simple until this.

[bodymanpainter]

You can add heat to the equation though it would be tricky. If you use a mini torch you can add heat to it in a precise manor.

Mini torches may not have a huge flame but they can produce a small, manageable hot flame. Aiming this into the bolt head will transfer heat down the bolt shaft. You may have to cycle it as in 20 second heat and 20 seconds off repeated if you feel that something may be damaged. Doing that along with a set of "easy outs" that that Bfromla had shown above should work.

Drilling should be a last resort.

Tim

180433 180434

This is the best idea so far, and yes I own a body shop and deal with this quite often, so be careful and
it should work for you.
Toby

[MrMagicFingers]

You can do this safely and without setting fire to your Spyder! :)

All that needs to happen is enough heat to be transferred down the shaft of the bolt. You do NOT need to make that bolt head cherry red or anything remotely like that. 20 second on and 20 off... repeated. All that need s to happen is the locktight needs to soften, if that's whats going on here. You only make things real hot if you dealing with stuff that's been bonded by rust.

Once you figured that it had properly heated up... try the allen key again. If that does not work... heat cycle again and try again.

The torches are cheap. We can get them at Princess Auto (very much like your Harbour Freight) for $10-$15.

Don't use any penetrating oil at this point as that is usually flammable. Clean it up first if you have.

Let us know how you do!

Tim

[carbonation]

Good luck. I installed that mount a while back.
My bolts were tight, but I had really good allen bits on a 3/8 breaker bar. After the initial break, they backed right out with a ratchet.
You have to have good bits though. Any deviation, wiggle, slop on the bolt, and you'll round it or deform it because the bit will always be harder than the fastener.
I like my set of VIM bits. They have never failed.
I agree you need heat at this point. The micro torch is a good idea.

[woods]

I believe I have seen threads where a soldering iron was used to heat bolt. Certainly take longer than mini torch but no flame!

[arachnyd]

i did this project a couple weeks ago.

here are the tools i used.

180437

i started with the impact driver, hitting a few times. then turned it out with a breaker bar.

look at your Allen key socket. some have a chamfer on the end which limits the contact surface area. i think a more square end has better contact.
the impact driver keeps the bit seated to the bottom while the bolt is turned. it may also break the thread sealant loose.
i had an electric soldering iron ready to heat up the bolt in case it seemed like i was failing.

good luck
ba

[cptjam]

I believe I have seen threads where a soldering iron was used to heat bolt. Certainly take longer than mini torch but no flame!
That’s what I use. Zero danger. Once it is hot, use a 7mm Allen socket, tap in position, remove bolt with a 3/8 breaker bar.

[Haze]

i did this project a couple weeks ago.

here are the tools i used.

180437

i started with the impact driver, hitting a few times. then turned it out with a breaker bar.

look at your Allen key socket. some have a chamfer on the end which limits the contact surface area. i think a more square end has better contact.
the impact driver keeps the bit seated to the bottom while the bolt is turned. it may also break the thread sealant loose.
i had an electric soldering iron ready to heat up the bolt in case it seemed like i was failing.

good luck
ba

I too have used an impact driver and allen key socket.

[Revalden]

if you do end up trying to drill the head off be sure the other bolts break free FIRST. You should heat them up before trying. Good luck.

[MONK]

I don't know who I've thanked and who I haven't so let this substitute for individual "thank you"s.

I have one of those little torches on order. I'll pick it up Saturday along with a can of butane and I guess one of those impact hammer things. I might pick up another 7mm Allen bit if I can find one individually.

I have another unanswered question. If I remove all 4 of those damnable bolts, can I remove the handlebars? I was under the impression that the only bars that were simply unboltable were the F3s and 2020 RTs, not the 2010-2019 RTs.

[SpyderAnn01]

You are correct only the F3 and 20 RT have regular, easily removable bars. It’s a big project on your RT. Good luck!

[MONK]

Thanks for the clarification/confirmation, SpyderAnn01. There were a few posts up there ^^^ that suggested removing the "good" bolts, drilling the head of the "bad" one and removing the bars. I just wanted to eliminate that line of thinking before I did something (else) dumb.

[PMK]

If it were me, and obviously I am not nearby to actually see how bad the fastener head has become, yes, heat can help.

But this can work also. Use coarse grit lapping compound into the hex opening. Not a lot, simply a thin film as needed applied with a Q Tip. Reinsert a good quality 7mm Allen socket, seat it fully with a couple light taps, then install the breaker bar, wiggle a couple times then reseat the Allen socket. Ideally the compound adds grip and tightens the fit allowing tne bolt to remove at this point.

[imfleck]

I too have used an impact driver and allen key socket.

Me too! Me too! Seriously, it was the ONLY way I was able to get those bolts out. Bonus: You can really get all of your frustrations out by pounding the living c#$p out of it!

[PinkRosePetal]

If you use a manual impact driver, remember you're pounding the top of the steering too! :yikes:


I'll be interested to know whether you get anywhere with the heat because the bolt is stainless steel and it is a very poor heat conductor. The bolt head is hard fast against the metal of the bars and they are aluminium which is a very good heat conductor. I bet you heat the bars considerably more than the bolt thread.

PMK's grinding past idea is a good one.

[Mazo EMS2]

First I'll state that I have had a food machine repair biz for over 40 years and had to deal with way too many seized, stuck, frozen and corroded fasteners.
BRP set you up for this as they are to generous with Loctite. Here's how I'd deal with your problem....
+ Place a punch that just fits in the allen recess and with hammer, give it a few whacks.
+ Loctite will soften with heat - if using a torch be super careful you don't scorch finishes surround the bolt. Could be a hair dryer might suffice.
+ It can't hurt to put a good penetrate in the hole - not WD-40 - Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster in that order of preference.
+ I hope you have an allen socket for this step; place the socket on a wrench handle (non ratcheting is preferable) and tap the handle with a hammer.
+ If the above doesn't do the job, then it's time to drill the thing out, but you REALLY need to know what you're doing.
+ In the future, when removing fasteners that fight back, use the above steps.

^^^^^THIS^^^^^ right here!!! Getting a punch in the recess of the bolt head and a couple good whacks often times is enough. Another option is to try to reshape the head of the bolt with said punch. In other words tap on the upper part of the bolt head to reshape the recesses portion so that the allen wrench fits tightly again. Heat and a couple of good strikes with a hammer should break it free as you turn it at the same time.

[Joel The Biker]

I believe the best solution is hammering a torx socket into the stripped allen head. Apply some heat to the socket and it should come right out. The most painless solution.

[PMK]

I believe the best solution is hammering a torx socket into the stripped allen head. Apply some heat to the socket and it should come right out. The most painless solution.

Was toying that for this situation, the Torx could be good back up plan if the grinding compound failed to grip. Either way or more correctly, something needs to work to get this resolved.

[Curlytops]

You could just leave it and find another way of attaching your stuff...

[94gnatsum]

I suggest, like above, get a can of PB Blast(best thing since sliced bread). Try to spray around head and bolt. Like said previously, take a punch and whack the head a few times. Wait a few minutes and repeat. Repeat the process 5 or 6 times. Then wait. A hour or so should do. If you have and impact to use, whatever you use, start putting even sustained pressure keeping close eye on the head. If you have someone to help, have them tap on the end while applying pressure. This should work. I would try this before adding heat to locations I can't see.

[PMK]

Those persons suggesting penetrating oils should understand that the precured thread locker on the bolts also seals the threads to prevent penetrant from entering.

As for striking the bolt head, again, with thread lock compound they use, there is resistance unwinding the bolt, even after broken free.

Mr Monk, all the best with it, plenty of suggestions, based on you having limited tools, maybe simply best to take it to the dealer.

[PinkRosePetal]

And, the bolt head is hard against the bars, exactly how is the penetrating oil going to get by the head and then get a few inches further down the bolt to the threads?

Also, remember if you're pounding the bolt you're also pounding the top of a plastic steering column bearing!

Best look at the exploded diagram to see what is really taking the abuse.

[JayBros]

I agree with PMK, since it's a new bike, get it to the dealer and let them make the best of a tough situation. That precured thread locker is a:cus: to unscrew even when the locking is initially broken.

[troop]

You could just leave it and find another way of attaching your stuff...

Once it happens, I'd also be determined to correct.

[MONK]

I'm going to buy an battery power impact wrench tomorrow as well as another (good) 7mm hex and a couple good torx (T40 and T45) bits. I'm hoping all of that will break the bolt free. I'll also pick up one of those little torches. If all of that doesn't work, I'll call the dealer although I'm not sure when I'll be able to get down there between work and the stay-at-home stuff.

I really appreciate the suggestions, all. Either it's fixed by this time tomorrow or it's not. I'll let everyone know.

[RICZ]

Some battery powered impact drivers have low torque ratings. If you are going to buy one, check the torque.

[Joel The Biker]

If you put the new 7mm socket on the bolt, it can be used to direct the heat from your mini torch to the bolt. Aim the torch into the socket where the ratchet would attach. I think you will be amazed how well that will work. We use YELLOW threadlock at work and a little heat makes it almost like its not even there. Just dont get it too hot.

[MONK]

I've just spent the last hour on this bit**. I can't get the bolt to move and now I've gotten the inside of that bolt head nice and round. I've tried heat, tapping w/a hammer, impact driver, everything. I'm done. I can't even imagine what the shop will charge @ $100/hr to remove it. THIS is how most of my projects turn out. It should be illegal for me to handle tools. I think I'll sell this and buy a convertible. Seriously.

[RICZ]

Here's a trick my dad taught me.....
Have a good, sharp center punch and put a good size dimple onto the head of the bolt near its edge. Then, with the punch in the dimple, lean it to the right and smack it with a hammer so as to move the bolt in the counter-clockwise direction. I'd warm the bolt first to soften the loctite.

[MONK]

Here's a trick my dad taught me.....
Have a good, sharp center punch and put a good size dimple onto the head of the bolt near its edge. Then, with the punch in the dimple, lean it to the right and smack it with a hammer so as to move the bolt in the counter-clockwise direction. I'd warm the bolt first to soften the loctite.

With all due respect, sir, if an impact gun won't turn the bolt, I don't see how a punch will do the same. I've tried heat. I spent about $200 today in new tools, sockets, torches, etc and have nothing to show for it except frustration. I can't do this. I'm sure someone w/more talent, better tools, a garage, etc can remove the bolt. I can't. I'm not spending any more money on more tools just to find that it doesn't work, either. I'll get more frustrated when it doesn't. It'll be up for sale shortly.

I appreciate everyones help. I really do. I just don't have the talent, tools or whatever to get the job done. The next owner may have all of the above and get a screaming deal on a very low mile, basically new 2018 RT Limited.

[RICZ]

All is not lost. Contact Lamonster and see if you can return the Ram mount in exchange for a cuff mount. Then there is nothing to remove, just fasten the cuff to you handlebar.
The stripped bolt is still securing the handlebar, so no structural integrity has been lost. If you don't want to see that bolt, get a pair of hole covers at your hardware store.
Here's a link to the cuff....
http://www.lamonstergarage.com/can-am-spyder-rt-cuff-cuff-only-parts-accessories-lamonster/

[davev1pa]

Really sounds nightmarish...but it makes me glad I didn't but the ram mount stem that goes in one of those 4 bolt holes....

[MONK]

RICZ---I've got the cuff. I just don't like the phone up there. Even if I never added the other RAM mount, I still know I have that busted up bolt. There are other things I want to do to the Can Am but I know I don't dare touch them for fear of messing things up. I can't afford to pay someone to do everything.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Sometimes the situation just gets the best of the toughest, smartest, most tenacious, meanest, orneriest, person, be he saint or otherwise. Feel free to be frustrated, upset, and whatever else. In a few days those feelings will subside and you'll reconsider your future action. Bite the bullet and let someone else tackle it, like a local machinist. Don't limit yourself to the dealer. He may not be any smarter than the whole lot of us who have been with you throughout this ordeal. I believe in time this frustration will pass, and the joys of riding the Spyder will allow it fade into the past.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Monk, here's what I think you should do. The best way to get a good grip on the bolt is to weld a rod onto the bolt head. That'll give you plenty of iron to get a good solid grip with a pair of Vise-Grips. I'm going to presume you are not a welder based on what you've said about your mechanical skills. So where to go to find a welder who can tackle this? A machine shop is a good possibility. Another one would be a muffler shop. Mufflers and exhaust pipes are thin and those guys use wire feed welders which can weld thin beads, just what is needed in the tight space around the bolt head. I'm not sure the bolts are stainless steel like PinkRosePetal says. I checked the ones off my 2014 that I took out when I installed the Tri-Axis bars. They are magnetic so they're either plated steel or ferritic stainless steel. Muffler guys weld on that type of stainless all the time.

Check with the dealer and see if he can get BRP to cover this as warranty item. It's an assembly defect if you can't disassemble it like you're supposed to be able to.

Good luck.

[cptjam]

What MAC said. Relax. If I had a nickel for all the fasteners I’ve ruined I’d have enough nickels to retire! It’s holding the handlebar, right? So tight NOBODY can get it off? Let it alone! Put a drop of grease in there, and go ride! You might not be a great mechanic. So what! If it still bothers you 10,000 miles later, have it fixed. Meanwhile, it just doesn’t matter!
I had a friend ask me today about my shop rate. I had assumed he was ok with wrenches. He has a sportster that leaks like the Exxon Valdez! He recognized it was beyond him, and asked for help. So, relax! Go ride!!!

[Teeman]

I worked with cap screw on Navy gear for over 40 years they can be a pain in the A--, get a subby e-z out set smack the right size in the head that might work it loss and you shouldn't round the allen out or the next thing to do is drill the bolt to relive the pressure. good luck

[94gnatsum]

I guess I'll explain more on what I wrote before. The penetrating oil will work its way down the threads to the thread sealant while tapping the head of the bolt. Repeating this several times while waiting 5-10 minutes between applications will hopefully get further and further down into the threads. The tapping on the head helps the penetrating oil to move down the threads, the time between applications allow the PB Blast dissolve the thread sealer. There is always a chance it may or may not work but I've had a ton of success in my 30+ years as an industrial mechanic applying this method. Best of luck. I hope it works out for you.

[merlot]

hi monk
can you take it to a fab shop or exhaust shop?i think this was already mentioned
have them weld an 8mm bolt into the stuck bolt
the heat from the welding process will soften the loctite and the bolt will come right out
make sure the bike is fully wrapped as splatter will ruin your day

when you finish,run a tap down the thread,then remove the yellow loctite from the new bolt and put a lower strength loctite on it

russ

[davev1pa]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/power-tool-accessories/screw-extractors/21595?store=07962&gclid=Cj0KCQjws_r0BRCwARIsAMxfDRiNRltjV8HZWs9Q0PhK eXVlXxb-tAnnLxUaECO5eM5mrufL0HkXJh8aAj9qEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I've used this method with some success

[speedycoop]

I think Merlot has the best method at this time (nut would also work ). A Tig welder would be ideal, just make sure to unhook battery and ground the welder to the handlebars.

[bluewoo]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDOWPekMX44

Wish one of us could just go help him out.

[MONK]

Update: Went to the dealer today. They said it wouldn't qualify for warranty work as I was the one who messed it up, not the dealer. They couldn't remove it and said the only thing they can do is drill out the head ("hopefully without damaging the bars" according to the mechanic), remove the entire top end, finish drilling out the bolt from underneath, then reinstalling everything. About $500 worth of work. If I have someone other than a dealer mess with it and something else gets damaged, BRP won't warranty that, either and I'd be out even more money. /sigh/

[bikerbillone]

Holy you know what, there's a dilemma. That's why I'm letting the dealer install the BRM passenger rests I bought off this forum, I would sure screw something up, I'm good at that.

[PMK]

Update: Went to the dealer today. They said it wouldn't qualify for warranty work as I was the one who messed it up, not the dealer. They couldn't remove it and said the only thing they can do is drill out the head ("hopefully without damaging the bars" according to the mechanic), remove the entire top end, finish drilling out the bolt from underneath, then reinstalling everything. About $500 worth of work. If I have someone other than a dealer mess with it and something else gets damaged, BRP won't warranty that, either and I'd be out even more money. /sigh/

Not sure why the dealer would choose to drill from below. Drill off the head, remove the other bolts. Raise the handlebars and use Vice Grips or a small pipe wrench to remove the bolt stub.

Bummer you are so far away, I would do this for you, or better still teach you how while using my tools.

[LifeLongRider]

Drill off the head, remove the other bolts. Raise the handlebars and use Vice Grips or a small pipe wrench to remove the bolt stub.

A good idea but make sure to heat the stud up really well before trying to twist it our or you make break the stud again. Heat should soften up the yellow thread locker enough to get the stud out easily.

[carbonation]

That is not a 500 repair.
A welder with a tig machine and 20 minutes would have that out.
Said it before. When working with Allen or Torx the bit is the most important piece.
Still like my VIM bits. Never let me down.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Time to pursue some of the suggestions we've offered earlier.

[MONK]

Time to pursue some of the suggestions we've offered earlier.

And what happens when one of those unapproved fixes breaks something else. Then I'd still have $500 (or more) into a fix.

[PMK]

A good idea but make sure to heat the stud up really well before trying to twist it our or you make break the stud again. Heat should soften up the yellow thread locker enough to get the stud out easily.

The original poster stripped the internal wrenching flats for the Allen wrench, not snapped the head of the bolt off. If the bolt snaps, that seems like 110% a safety issue.

[PMK]

And what happens when one of those unapproved fixes breaks something else. Then I'd still have $500 (or more) into a fix.


FWIW, there are some of us here well versed, actually extremely experienced in working on stuff like this. If I had a nickel for every screw I have drilled out on an aircraft, and most stripped by other techs, I would have a lot of nickels.

Bummer it happened, but it can be correctly repaired.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

And what happens when one of those unapproved fixes breaks something else. Then I'd still have $500 (or more) into a fix.
I just looked at the handlebar casting from my 2014 RT. I replaced it with the Tri-Axis bar. There is almost 3/4" of thickness between the bolt head and the plate the handlebar mounts to. There is no need take anything more apart than the handlebar off the plate. Tell the dealer to drill the head off as he suggests. Then when the handlebar is off there is plenty of length of bolt sticking up to get a good grip with a pair of vise grips on it to screw it out just like PMK says. He should be able to do all this easily within one hour. That should be more like a $100, not $500. If he resists tell him to call one of us.

If you have a good machine shop close by go there and talk to them. They can do it just as well or better than the dealer. If you need a picture of what the handlebar looks like to see how much bolt sticks up above the plate, let me know. I can get you a couple easy.

[RICZ]

Yup....I'd do exactly what IdahoMtnSpyder suggests. Easy peasy and all you need is a drill bit slightly larger than the bolt head and a ViseGrip.

[JoshHefnerX]

Drill off the head of that bolt, remove the rest of that cap. Use the torch to heat the 'stud' that's sticking up, that should break down the locktite. This will also cause the stud to expand and once it's cool, it will contract very slightly from the walls of the threads making removal much easier.

[MONK]

I'm a little confused. (Well, a LOT confused.) If I remove all (4) bolts (whether by drilling the heads off of them or removing them the "right" way), I can remove the handlebars? If I drill the head off the jacked up bolt and remove the others the right way will there be enough clearance to get a pair of vise grips on the remaining POS bolt or will I need to disassemble other things? Honestly, my concern is that 1) I really don't know what I'm doing, 2) that I don't have the right tools, 3) I don't have a garage/carport so if I have to stop in the middle of the job (storm rolls in, I'm missing a critical tool, I get stumped), I can't just stop and 4) I don't have an confidence. (it is what it is. I've jacked up more projects than I've successfully completed. Ask me about my Kawasaki Nomaglide sometime. :( )

If all of the above is true, what bolt(s) do I need to replace what I have? Technically, I still have the (2) bolts that came with the Lamonster phone mount plate (which is where all this started) and could mount that but I'd like to have (4) of the correct bolts on hand, just in case. (I went a different direction with the phone mount.)

I don't supposed there's anyone in my area who knows what they're doing and has the correct tools who'd like to come over for a Saturday and at least advise. I don't mind doing the work.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

MONK, I just reviewed the process of changing the handlebar to the Tri-Axis. You are looking at a more complicated procedure than I was thinking and what I remembered. To get a good idea of getting the handlebar loose look at the first several steps of this instruction. https://instructions.brp.com/content/instruction-sheet/en_CA/e-instruction-details.html#googtrans(en)&articleNo=kA0a0000000oRhgCAE&lang=en&title=ROADSTER%20KIT%20-%20Tri%20Axis%20Adjustable%20Handlebar&rel_part_number=219400344,219400414. The first thing they say to do is remove the entire front module with the dash and headlights. Now that I think back on it will be a few hours of labor. Your dealer's estimate of $500 may not be to far out of line after all.

At this point your best next step to check out is to go to a machine or muffler shop and ask about welding a bolt to the buggered up bolt head and use that to turn it loose. That will be a LOT cheaper than drilling and using vise grips. Your other affordable choice is to get a different mount and some plastic caps to cover the bolt heads so the buggered up one isn't visible.

[Peacekeeper6]

And to think that this was going to be my next mod.

Sounds like something that's too much trouble to me. Think I'm going to do the driver's backrest next.

Anyway, I'm sure you'll eventually get that bolt out, MONK. These things may take a few tries. Have patience, take a break, don't get too flustered. If you feel that you're at the end of your rope (or talent or ability), perhaps it's time to swallow your pride and ask for professional help. They say that "time is money", and that it'll be worth paying someone to do it instead of spending hours filled with aggravation and stress.

Good luck, and let us know how it went....

[merlot]

its likely a $20 fix at the muffler shop Monk.....cover everything to avoid tears from splatter,espec the cluster

russ

[bikerbillone]

My apologies Monk. I know you have enough aggravation.

[carbonation]

And to think that this was going to be my next mod.

Sounds like something that's too much trouble to me. Think I'm going to do the driver's backrest next.

Anyway, I'm sure you'll eventually get that bolt out, MONK. These things may take a few tries. Have patience, take a break, don't get too flustered. If you feel that you're at the end of your rope (or talent or ability), perhaps it's time to swallow your pride and ask for professional help. They say that "time is money", and that it'll be worth paying someone to do it instead of spending hours filled with aggravation and stress.

Good luck, and let us know how it went....

It went bad for him, unfortunately. Most of us don't have the trouble he had.

Took about 20 minutes, start to finish. No snark intended here. I feel for him. But I know that bolt is NOT impossible to get out, he just hasn't found the key for the lock yet.
181052

[FastOldGuy]

I'm a little confused. (Well, a LOT confused.) If I remove all (4) bolts (whether by drilling the heads off of them or removing them the "right" way), I can remove the handlebars? If I drill the head off the jacked up bolt and remove the others the right way will there be enough clearance to get a pair of vise grips on the remaining POS bolt or will I need to disassemble other things? Honestly, my concern is that 1) I really don't know what I'm doing, 2) that I don't have the right tools, 3) I don't have a garage/carport so if I have to stop in the middle of the job (storm rolls in, I'm missing a critical tool, I get stumped), I can't just stop and 4) I don't have an confidence. (it is what it is. I've jacked up more projects than I've successfully completed. Ask me about my Kawasaki Nomaglide sometime. :( )

If all of the above is true, what bolt(s) do I need to replace what I have? Technically, I still have the (2) bolts that came with the Lamonster phone mount plate (which is where all this started) and could mount that but I'd like to have (4) of the correct bolts on hand, just in case. (I went a different direction with the phone mount.)

I don't supposed there's anyone in my area who knows what they're doing and has the correct tools who'd like to come over for a Saturday and at least advise. I don't mind doing the work.

I just pulled one of my Bolts out to mount a magnetic phone mount. As you know at this point, it's a 7mm allen. Like you said, I'd Drill the Head off the Stripped one (and remove the other 3). Pull the bars up and you have plenty of room to get a set of Vice Grips on the bolt or try threading the remaining bolt and putting 2 nuts on it (one to Lock the other) and try backing it out. Heat it up a little first to break the LocTite. Or after the bars are out of the way get someone with a Tig Welder to weld a Nut to the remaining Bolt and back it out. Don't over think this, it's not huge, make a good plan and Attack It. If I was Closer, I'd gladly come help or Drive it to the Beach and I'll help you get it out. (Yes, I have Taps and a Tig Welder.)

[FastOldGuy]

its likely a $20 fix at the muffler shop Monk.....cover everything to avoid tears from splatter,espec the cluster

russ

Hang on a minute! The Original Bolt is Stainless Steel. You Can Not MIG a SS Bolt. Secondly, the Mig is going to Pop Slag everywhere and damage stuff. A TIG welder for Stainless Steel will Work "IF" you decide to Weld It.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Pull the bars up and you have plenty of room to get a set of Vice Grips on the bolt or try threading the remaining bolt and putting 2 nuts on it (one to Lock the other) and try backing it out.
Unfortunately, it's not that simple. Take a look at the instruction sheet I link to above. The big hangup is the plastic trim under the handlebar. It hides the big gap between the steering column and the dash. It's kind of like a hat with a brim that extends below the mounting plate. In order to get that piece out you have to have to remove the dash. It is fastened with screws and you have to reach up under and inside the hat to get to them. You can't get up under there with the dash in place which is why the console module has to come off.


Hang on a minute! The Original Bolt is Stainless Steel. You Can Not MIG a SS Bolt. Secondly, the Mig is going to Pop Slag everywhere and damage stuff. A TIG welder for Stainless Steel will Work "IF" you decide to Weld It.

As for welding an experienced welder will know what precautions to take to avoid spatter damage. As for the welder it's just easier to refer to it as a wire feed welder! The bolt is probably not the stainless steel you're thinking about. They are magnetic so I'm guessing they are just stainless enough to minimize rusting, like car exhaust components, but steel enough to be easily welded. That's why I keep suggesting going to a muffler shop. Those guys are welding on that type of steel all the time.

[MONK]

Assuming I let the dealer tech resolve this (if it ends up being covered under warranty, which I doubt), is there any more work involved in replacing the stock handlebars with the Tri Axis bars? Just trying to think outside the box, I guess.

[AeroPilot]

Monk, if your original intent was to use the center mount phone mount you purchased and now have another phone mount and the rest of the original 4 bolts are still intact, my choice would be just to live with the one wallowed out bolt. I may not have the whole story, but if every thing else is good - just ride it.

I probably have cosmetic issues with every mechanical device I own, but if they operate as intended, I can live with it... Your choice.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Assuming I let the dealer tech resolve this (if it ends up being covered under warranty, which I doubt), is there any more work involved in replacing the stock handlebars with the Tri Axis bars? Just trying to think outside the box, I guess.
Once he's got the handlebar loose there is a little bit more to do the switch. He'll have to change the grips from one to the other and also the ignition module. To just do the repair he may not need to do those if he can get the handlebar out of the way with the wires and cables attached. If you buy the Tri-Axis from him, installed, he shouldn't charge very much extra, if any, to get the buggered up bolt out. There is a little bit more to mounting the Tri-Axis than the stock, but not much.

The Tri-Axis handlebar is pricey, but if the stock handlebar just doesn't fit your body and sitting position quite right, and if you plan on taking long trips, it definitely would be worth considering going that route. I like mine, with one exception. When you pull the grips back toward you the left and right bars pivot at the center. That means the angle of the grips becomes more acute with respect to the centerline of the bike, and so you turn your wrists outward more to grip. I also found that once I found a comfortable position for the bar I almost never change it again. On long trips I'll change it just to give my arms and wrists a rest from being stuck in one position. The Tri-Axis is the only option for the pre-2020 RT for adjustability. All things considered it is a great option.

Yeah, considering your situation I say give it some serious consideration. The cost difference between the fix that leaves you with the stock configuration and the T-A option makes the T-A look very much worth it!

[MONK]

Just realized the Tri Axis bars are $700. I don't need them that badly.

[PinkRosePetal]

Monk, take it to the dealer. There's so much misinformation in this thread you'll likely make it worse if you follow it.

Even with all the bolts out you can't just remove the bars.
Given the amount of force you've applied, there's no way a vise grip pliers is going to remove that stud, you need a stud extractor.
Stainless steel can be Mig or Tig welded.
Attempting to weld a bolt on will almost certainly damage the bars because the bolt head is fairly recessed and access is limited.
Welding a nut on is possible but difficult because welding current will preferentially jump to the nut threads rather than down the hole to the bolt head and the nut will fill with weld with little fusion to the bolt head.
The bars are aluminium and just powder coated so very easily damaged.

Take it to the dealer! If you're fancying the Triaxis they should only charge you a little for drilling off the bolt head. Any decent mechanics workshop will have a stud extractor. The bolt heads are particularly shallow in the first place and that is part of the initial problem.

Take it to the dealer!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Just realized the Tri Axis bars are $700. I don't need them that badly.
Perfectly understandable! :thumbup: I was fortunate when I got mine and got a good deal on eBay from a warehouse salvage operator.

[PMK]

I just pulled one of my Bolts out to mount a magnetic phone mount. As you know at this point, it's a 7mm allen. Like you said, I'd Drill the Head off the Stripped one (and remove the other 3). Pull the bars up and you have plenty of room to get a set of Vice Grips on the bolt or try threading the remaining bolt and putting 2 nuts on it (one to Lock the other) and try backing it out. Heat it up a little first to break the LocTite. Or after the bars are out of the way get someone with a Tig Welder to weld a Nut to the remaining Bolt and back it out. Don't over think this, it's not huge, make a good plan and Attack It. If I was Closer, I'd gladly come help or Drive it to the Beach and I'll help you get it out. (Yes, I have Taps and a Tig Welder.)

Similar to how I would first approach this. After drilling the head off, raise the bars slightly. With the tension relieved by removing the bolt head this should ease the turning effort needed to get the remains turning.

Is there enough working room to fit Vice Grips into the gap if the bars are raised, that is the big question.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Is there enough working room to fit Vice Grips into the gap if the bars are raised, that is the big question.
No. Read my discussion above.

[PMK]

No. Read my discussion above.

Actually, I did read the Tri Axis instructions and studied the illustrations.

Removing the bars entirely to replace them vs raising them enough to get tooling on the bolt shank and remove it may differ a bit.

I truly never tried to raise the handlebars for this task, so can not say if it works or not, but will add I would be trying it long before removing everything else.

[Jetfixer]

Tri-axis install is a lot of work, but would gain better access to a broken bolt.

181161

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Actually, I did read the Tri Axis instructions and studied the illustrations.

Removing the bars entirely to replace them vs raising them enough to get tooling on the bolt shank and remove it may differ a bit.

I truly never tried to raise the handlebars for this task, so can not say if it works or not, but will add I would be trying it long before removing everything else.
PMK, sorry for the late reply. I thought I had this posted days ago but I just now see I must have clicked on preview instead of submit. :banghead: Restore auto saved content feature is super great! :thumbup:

The hangup is with the plastic trim that is shaped like a hat. It is about 2" deep and fastened to underside of the handlebar and clamped between the handlebar and mounting plate. The 'brim' of the hat will keep you from lifting the handlebar more than about 1" which is why you have to get it separated from the bar.The screws that hold it to the bar are up inside the hat so there is no way to get to them with the dash in place. The mounting plate is inside the hat. If there was a way to separate the hat from the bar so that it could stay down on the mounting plate without having to reach inside of it then the bar could be lifted high enough to get a vise grip between the bar and mounting plate. This is a case of where we can freely curse an innocuous piece of tupperware.

[PMK]

PMK, sorry for the late reply. I thought I had this posted days ago but I just now see I must have clicked on preview instead of submit. :banghead: Restore auto saved content feature is super great! :thumbup:

The hangup is with the plastic trim that is shaped like a hat. It is about 2" deep and fastened to underside of the handlebar and clamped between the handlebar and mounting plate. The 'brim' of the hat will keep you from lifting the handlebar more than about 1" which is why you have to get it separated from the bar.The screws that hold it to the bar are up inside the hat so there is no way to get to them with the dash in place. The mounting plate is inside the hat. If there was a way to separate the hat from the bar so that it could stay down on the mounting plate without having to reach inside of it then the bar could be lifted high enough to get a vise grip between the bar and mounting plate. This is a case of where we can freely curse an innocuous piece of tupperware.

If the handlebar can be raised an inch, Vice Grips should easily fit in the gap and grab the bolt shank.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

If the handlebar can be raised an inch, Vice Grips should easily fit in the gap and grab the bolt shank.
I think you missed the picture! Think of the hat over the top of mounting plate. Even if you raise it up by an inch the hat is still surrounding the mounting plate. You can't push the vise grip through the hat to get to the gap!

[PinkRosePetal]

PMK, you're wasting your breath, take a look at the schematic earlier in the thread for the steering components.

IdahoMtnSpyder is correct and the plastics need to be removed to gain access.