Removing ECU for stage 2 flash

[rwbcats]

Have everything apart but the 2 wire harnesses Supposed to push something while turning something. Can someone guide me through this step. Thank You Richard

[Peteoz]

Have everything apart but the 2 wire harnesses Supposed to push something while turning something. Can someone guide me through this step. Thank You Richard

It has been a while since I did it, but put your thumb at the bottom of the clip with the slot in it, your index finger at the top, and twist clockwise. I can’t remember if there is something else holding it though. Ignore the marks on the clip. That’s where I was doing my head in, until Peter Aawen gave me the tip.... hopefully someone else will comment if there is still something else holding the plug in.

[Peteoz]

Here’s the pic -
178964

178965

[eddieshep999]

This may help

https://bc5ea35f-0a76-4e03-8a52-544aa9a2eac0.filesusr.com/ugd/b13998_65eaf7d17d7a4d4fb6d0ac9d11136ca1.pdf

[Peteoz]

This may help

https://bc5ea35f-0a76-4e03-8a52-544aa9a2eac0.filesusr.com/ugd/b13998_65eaf7d17d7a4d4fb6d0ac9d11136ca1.pdf

Ahhhhh yes, the locking tab.........that’s the bit I couldn’t remember......thanks Eddie :thumbup:

Pete

[Peter Aawen]

Ahhhhh yes, the locking tab.........that’s the bit I couldn’t remember......thanks Eddie :thumbup:

Pete

And THAT's the bit that catches most people!! The tiny little locking clips that're in the middle/top of each connector! :gaah:

So easy once you've found & pressed the locking clip, but boy, it's bleedin' impossible if you don't!! :shocked:

[ssmcclub]

When you remove ecu to get the flash done do you have to disconnect the battery?

[Peteoz]

If you are, I didn’t know about it when I removed mine and have suffered no ill effects from not doing it, for the 10 days my ECU was away. ssmc. ;)

Pete

[ssmcclub]

ok thank you

[308gunner]

When you remove ecu to get the flash done do you have to disconnect the battery?

yes you disconnect it..and leave it disconnected until you reinstall the ECU.

[fatboy]

i did not no problems

[Peteoz]

yes you disconnect it..and leave it disconnected until you reinstall the ECU.

Interesting, 308......I just checked my removal instructions from Jase, and there is no mention of battery removal. I wonder what leaving the battery in situ might impact.

Pete

[308gunner]

Interesting, 308......I just checked my removal instructions from Jase, and there is no mention of battery removal. I wonder what leaving the battery in situ might impact.

Pete

i disconnect the battery for an extra bit of safety.

[Peteoz]

i disconnect the battery for an extra bit of safety.

Ahh.....ok.....thanks :thumbup:

Pete

[308gunner]

Have everything apart but the 2 wire harnesses Supposed to push something while turning something. Can someone guide me through this step. Thank You Richard

We're you able to successfully disconnect the ECU and send it off?

[Peteoz]

We're you able to successfully disconnect the ECU and send it off?

Yeah, it is frustrating when someone asks a question, gets replies on how to address the issue and then never responds as to how they went or acknowledges the advice, 308. Just a simple “thanks Eddieshep, that worked” would suffice. :dontknow:

Pete

[Dlaskey]

I left my battery connected, there is no harm from it

[AY4B]

I just removed my ECU and did not disconnect the battery on my new to me Spyder. I don't think it gets power unless the key is turned on. I promise not to do that. I will ship it off in the morning for a stage 2 flash this time. Having done it before on my grey Spyder, It was a lot easier this time. I could get the top bolt off using my driver. Why I didn't do that last time is a mystery to me. I guess because someone else said it takes an open end wrench.

[AY4B]

Im also adding a new K&N air filter to the intake. That plus the modified air box, Ill do a 15 minute run on idle to let it adjust when I get it back. Im running the same exaust I had on the other Spyder. A ELS crusher with his cat bypass. My only concern is they say it gets louder with the stage 2 and it is already borderline too loud. Well, we will see.

[troop]

I guess I'm not understanding the increased db between the stage 1 and stage 2 flashes ? Gotta be the increased sound of the intake with the filter cap being drilled out. That's the only thing letting increased air in > air out.

[fatboy]

not to worry youll be ok

[ssmcclub]

when putting the flashed ecu back on the bike do you have push the little tab to get it to lock on the bike again?

[308gunner]

when putting the flashed ecu back on the bike do you have push the little tab to get it to lock on the bike again?

No..you just push the tab to remove the ECU...

[Sampi1099]

I have a 2012 Spyder RT Limited with the 998 v-twin and i just sent my ecu off to Wick-it in LA. Its there for a stage 2 reflash. Waiting on the return of it. i did not unhook my battery so i hope its will be ok.

[ssmcclub]

ok thank you 308gunner

[308gunner]

when putting the flashed ecu back on the bike do you have push the little tab to get it to lock on the bike again?

Are you removing it or installing it?

[KidDoc]

99 times out of 100 there will be no problems leaving the battery connected. But an accidental contact between a hot component and the frame (or in my case a wrench touching a hot component and frame) can lead to disaster. With the ECU removal/reinstall I would always disconnect the ground wire from the battery to be on the safe side.

[Peteoz]

I have a 2012 Spyder RT Limited with the 998 v-twin and i just sent my ecu off to Wick-it in LA. Its there for a stage 2 reflash. Waiting on the return of it. i did not unhook my battery so i hope its will be ok.

Sampi, there is no NEED to disconnect the battery. See the other replies above. No issues were encountered leaving it in, and the instructions do not ask you to disconnect it :thumbup:

Pete

[Sampi1099]

Pete thank you for your reply. i have read alot of the people get a stage 1 and then you see them sending it back for the stage II reflash. Is there that much difference in the two?

[Peteoz]

Pete thank you for your reply. i have read alot of the people get a stage 1 and then you see them sending it back for the stage II reflash. Is there that much difference in the two?

Unfortunately, I can’t answer that, Sampi, as I never had the Stage 1. All I can tell you is that the Stage 2 was done with me still using the stock pipes and air (I’m not after improving 1/4 mile times), and the F3 behaves just the same as stock at slower speeds, but really gets up and goes when you twist it. I was going to get the Stage 1 from ECUXtreme, primarily to fix the lag when hitting the freeway in too high a gear, but Jase kindly didn’t the level 2 for me....... and also bear in mind that the Aussie Ecuxtreme flash may be slightly different from the US versions. Sorry.

Pete

[jjpgator]

Anybody have any error codes pop after stage 2 flash?. I have a 2018 F3s. Did stage 2 flash, cat delete, and K&N air filter. After about a week, check engine light came on and shows code p0172. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[troop]

What are the Possible Causes of the P0172 Code?

Like any other OBD-II code, a P0172 can be caused by a variety of problems. In other words, there is no easy way to pinpoint what’s causing the problem other than examining the critical parts responsible for maintaining the right fuel mixture.

Here are the different possible reasons why you’re getting the engine code P0172:

A leaking fuel injector
Excessive fuel pressure due to restriction along the fuel return line or a faulty fuel pressure regulator
Filthy air filter
Restrictions somewhere in the air intake system
Clogging due to buildup or physical damage in these exhaust components: catalytic converter, exhaust pipe, and muffler
Faulty O2 sensor
Exhaust leak
Problems with other sensors (e.g., coolant temperature sensor, mass airflow sensor)
Circuit issues, such as loose connections and damaged wiring
Issues with the PCM, such as software in need of an update

You might want to contact Wicked or Monster ..

[RICZ]

QUESTIONS....
Since an ECU Stage 2 flash is on the table, I am wondering...
+ What does it do for engine performance, fuel mileage, etc. if I leave everything else stock except for a RLS cat delete with baffle?
+ Are there sources other than Wick-it?
+ How much?

[troop]

Not having a Monster/Wick-it flashed ECU, I can't comment on mpg's. Wick-It is the USA partner of Monster, which is located in Canada. Last I knew, cost was:
Stage 1: $395
Stage 2: $515 Stage 2 requires sending in your air filter cover cap to be drilled for (2) holes.
https://www.monsterfuelinjection.com/spyder
https://wick-itperformance.com/shop-products/ols/products/monster-fuel-injection-can-am-spyder

1330cc Flash

Ultra smooth throttle transitions
+15% torque increase, up to +20% horsepower
Roll-on power is improved 1000-5000 rpm.
New Ultra wide power band gives vast power gains 5000 rpm to redline
91 Octane Tune (can use 93 to promote best power output)
Works with every combination of stock exhaust, cat delete or free flow muffler
Retains factory mapping, feedback systems and fuel mileage under half throttle
Stock 8100 or 8600 rpm limiter choice (or anywhere 8800-9200 at user’s discretion)

[RICZ]

Thanks for that reply Troop. A drawback to stage 2 is the narrowing of the octane band to 91 or even higher. That could cause a problem when needing gas at a one pump station out in the boonies. Otherwise, it will increase the yee haw factor by a ton.