Peacekeeper6 Mod Thread

[Peacekeeper6]

I will attempt to document all of my modifications on our 2018 Spyder RT Limited, complete with difficulty level from a scale of 1-4 (1 being the easiest) and some tips that have helped me during installation.




1) Trunk Mounted Double Flag Holder Set

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - This was probably THE easiest mod I’ve ever done.

Notes: I really like this mod, because I thoroughly believe that every biker
should be patriotic and fly the Stars and Stripes. Since I served with
the 101st Airborne Division (Air Assault) out of Ft. Campbell, KY, I’ve
decided to also fly the Screaming Eagle. I’m both proud and honored to
fly these colors on our bike.



2) Lamonster Magic Mirrors

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - Do NOT be afraid to knock the living crap out of your original mirrors.
Also, these magnets are STRONG. Do NOT let them hit each other
because the possibility of breaking them is very high.

Notes: This is A MUST mod. Anytime you perform an oil change, light
upgrade, etc, you WILL have to remove body panels, and the side
view mirrors are the first to be removed. Also, these magnets
significantly reduce vibrations and improves visibility. If you can
only afford one mod, make sure this is the one.



3) Next Gen LED Bumpskid

Difficulty Level - 2

Tips - Jack up the bike to provide some much-needed room. Use some
C-clamps to immobilize the front of the bumpskid for accurate hole
placements. Use SHARP drill bits, especially when drilling through
the metal frame for the rear bolts. BE CAREFUL you don’t hit any cooling
system components while drilling, so TAKE YOUR TIME.

Notes: While this isn’t a necessary mod, I feel that it’ll save body panels
in case I accidentally hit or run over objects. This was my first LED
component, and I was extremely impressed with the quality of its
light output. It has inspired me to upgrade my stock headlights and
fog lights.



4) Lamonster RT Spyder Cuff with Lamonster Approved Phone Holder

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - Use the “rubber band” for a more secure install. I installed it
on the right side because (1) I’m right handed, and (2) I feel that the
left side of the handlebar already has enough buttons and levers.

Notes: There is a reason why this is one of the most expensive cup/phone
holders in the market. The quality is second-to-none. In addition, this
was my first RAM mount, and didn’t realize how versatile and fully
customizable it makes your bike. This Lamonster product is very
well-made, and gives me confidence in purchasing other items from
them in the future.



5) Spyclops II LED Light

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - Measure the LED strip and cut it at the indicated line. Power can be
tapped on either side, so think about how you’re going to place it under the lip
of the front hood. Ensure it clears the front of the hood when opening and
and closing it.

Notes: The bumpskid LED caused me to purchase this item. I thought about
getting the ones that install on the A-arms, but I felt that that it would be over
the top and didn’t like the way it looks as compared to the Spyclops. Plus,
it looks cool, lol.



6) Lamonster Ultra Bright LED Headlights

Difficulty Level - 2

Tips - I didn’t have a sharp knife or a proper bit for my Dremel, so I drilled a
a hole ¼ inch from the edge with a bit that was the same width of the wire.
Then, I used a pair of tin-snips to cut the rest of the plastic off. Quick and easy.
Install the controller box OUTSIDE the cap because there’s no room inside. Use
strong Velcro to secure it AT THE BOTTOM half of the cap where it curves downward.

Notes: This mod is not only aesthetically pleasing, but it provides an added
safety feature that cannot be stressed enough. I haven’t tested it out at night
yet, but I’m quite sure it’s a definite improvement over stock. I like the fact that
it doesn’t have a fan that can fail, which is probably the reason why it’s more
expensive than other LED headlights. You get what you pay for, right ??



7) Lamonster Ultra Bright LED Fog Lights

Difficulty Level - 3

Tips - Start with the right side first to familiarize yourself in this bitch of a project.
Use a stubby flathead screwdriver to pop off the cap. It’s a straight install from
here on out. The LEFT side, however, is where it gets interesting. Popping
the cap is probably the easiest thing here. Again, unless you have dainty-
sized hands of a 5th grader, you’re gunna be cussing yourself and the BRP
engineers to no end. I must’ve spent about 2 hours trying all different ways to
install the cap back with no success. I decided to leave it off because I came
so, SO close to throwing the cap 98 mph out of my garage and onto the street.
I’ve decided to keep the cap and will reinstall it when I take the frunk off in the
future should I decide to upgrade to the Baja Ron Swaybars. If ANYBODY has
a tip in reinstalling this cap, please let me know.

Notes: This mod really wasn't THAT necessary, but it really bothered me when
the fogs were turned on, and it was the only yellow light shining through
a sea of white LEDs. It also bothered me that the black plastic cap was kicking
my ass, but I'm sure it'll find its rightful place once I take the frunk off. Oh well,
sometimes you win, and sometimes you lose.



8) High Mount Brake/Run/Turn Taillights with Plug-n-Play Harness

Difficulty Level - 2.5

Tips - Measure twice (thrice, quadruple), drill once. Once you get over the fact
you’re gunna be drilling a hole in your $25k bike, the rest of the install is pretty
easy. Tons of parts to take off and reassemble, but it’s pretty fun because I feel
like our Spyder is like LEGO for adults, LOL.

Notes: Really, BRP should have designed something similar from the factory.
This mod is one of my favorites because, as stated above, it was fun taking
apart the rear end of the bike for the first time and putting it back together
WITHOUT any issues. No tools were thrown from my garage !! Plus, the level
of the lights is just right for the vehicles in the back, a DEFINITE safety
feature. The Lamonster wiring harness made this install quick, easy and painless,
so if you absolutely HATE wiring, the added price is worth it.



9) Diamond R Passenger WEB Armrest

Difficulty Level - 1.5

Tips - Prior to removing the seat, put a piece of cloth on top of the dreaded Black
Hole in the back to prevent accidentally dropping a nut or bolt into it and never
seeing it again.

Note: It was a toss-up between these armrests and the BRP ones. I like these a
touch better because it's longer, which offers more comfort. I spoke to the owner
of Diamond R when I was ordering it, and he was REALLY nice. The armrest and
baseplate are robust, and the chrome pieces adds some class to our bike.



Disclaimer: If you are wondering about my mechanical skills, I can safely assure you
that I am NOT a mechanic by trade. I own a variety of cars/trucks, and am able to do
simple DIY projects like oil and oil/air/cabin/fuel filter changes. I own a 1/2-ton Silverado, and have
replaced the radiator, alternator and in-tank fuel pump. I also own a 3-Series BMW
and have replaced window regulators (4 times !!), radiator (once), thermostat/water pump/
expansion tank (twice), brake pads/rotors (twice), in-tank fuel pump (twice). My BMW,
while it's been a GREAT car to drive, is NOTORIOUS for weak window regulators and cooling
system. It has given me a good reason to learn to DIY many projects and have saved
time and money by doing the jobs myself.

Also, I'd like to thank the many Spyder DIYers who have documented their work on YouTube.
Without your help and guidance, owners like me would have a very difficult time in many
of our mods and DIY projects.

[Lew L]

Nice write-up Lou. Skiing this week????

[Peacekeeper6]

Nice write-up Lou. Skiing this week????

Thanks Lew.

My grandson is going to spend the weekend with us. Plus, my season pass has blackout dates this weekend.

So to answer your question, no I'm not going skiing. I have a few Fridays off coming up, and will text you when I'll be going up to Rose.

Dang, wish I was retired....

[Airborne]

Where do you get the time to work!

[Peacekeeper6]

Where do you get the time to work!

I work Monday to Thursday. These mods were installed in the last 2 months or so during the weekends. They're really not THAT time-consuming, and I don't use any powered screwdrivers when taking off or placing back the tupperware. I find it very therapeutic to take each screw off each panel by hand and reinstalling them in its original hole. Call me "anal", but I'd rather be called "thorough" or "precise", LOL.

[Airborne]

Got it, nice to find another 'Airborne Warrior' on this site. Nice mods by the way.

[PMK]

Not sure how long it has been since you installed the foglights. The cap should be installed to prevent water and debris from entering the inside of the foglight housing. Once inside it is very difficult to clean.

[Peacekeeper6]

Not sure how long it has been since you installed the foglights. The cap should be installed to prevent water and debris from entering the inside of the foglight housing. Once inside it is very difficult to clean.

I just installed it last Saturday, 2 days ago.

I don't really like to ride in the rain (I'm a fair weather rider with no real rain gear), so that's not a concern. I'll try my best to avoid any puddles or wet spots on the road.

I did try to unhook the left fender to gain a bit more access, but I think my bumpskid was preventing it from moving. Because of this, I didn't bother to unhook the air intake. Like I said, when I decide to remove the frunk for the sway bar install is the time I'll try to reinstall that stupid cap.

I should just run a few strips of duct tape across the opening in the meantime, lol.

[Peacekeeper6]

Got it, nice to find another 'Airborne Warrior' on this site. Nice mods by the way.

Thanks !!

HOOAH !!!!

[Peacekeeper6]

10) Lidlox Helmet Lock (pair)

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - Pretty straightforward install. My 4-year old grandson could've probably put this on for me.

Notes: Looks to be a high-quality product. It's my first Lidlox, and I might buy one for my Harley. It's really nice not having to put our helmets in the compartments, although I worry about drunk people at rallies using our helmets as makeshift trash cans, LOL.

(This mod is no longer installed and was replaced by Lamonster IPS Bar End Caps)

[seaweed]

10) Lidlox Helmet Lock (pair)

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - Pretty straightforward install. My 4-year old grandson could've probably put this on for me.

Notes: Looks to be a high-quality product. It's my first Lidlox, and I might buy one for my Harley. It's really nice not having to put our helmets in
the compartments, although I worry about drunk people at rallies using our helmets as makeshift trash cans, LOL.

I would worry more about the drunk folks using the helmets as barf bags rather than trash cans.

[Revalden]

I would worry more about the drunk folks using the helmets as barf bags rather than trash cans.

We were in Branson, Mo. last summer. Beautiful day, went into a restaurant to eat dinner. While in there, a thunder cloud full of rain passed over. Our helmets were FULL OF WATER. Since it was a very warm evening we just poured the water over our heads and put them on. Ya just gotta do what ya gotta do. :thumbup:

[samewok]

Mine got used as trash can.

[Peacekeeper6]

Welp, I just ordered the Two Brothers S1R slip-on exhaust.

ANYTHING sounds better than that OEM can that sounds like George Jetson's car, LOL.

I'm hoping that the cat will help muffle the sound and makes it bearable at highway speeds. At least, I'm doing my part in keeping our breathable air clean....

[Peacekeeper6]

11) Two Brothers S1R slip-on exhaust

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - I found that it was easier attaching the slip tube to the muffler with the supplied hook springs first prior to connecting it to the bike. Removing the nut that mounts the OEM muffler was tough with just a regular-length ratcheting wrench, so try to get more leverage by attaching a metal tube at the end of the wrench. I didn't have a tube, so I used Vise Grip pliers and that did the trick. Also, the Vise Grips helped to attach the TBR clamp to the supplied TBR muffler hangar bracket.

Notes: I'd have to say that out of all my mods so far, I absolutely LOVE this one. IMO, it makes it sound SO much better than the OEM muffler. It's not obnoxiously loud, probably because I decided to keep the catalytic converter. (Hey, I'm just doing my part in keeping noise and carbon footprint at a minimum, lol).

[Peacekeeper6]

12). Wrap My Spyder 758 SI and Phoenix decals

Difficulty Level: 1.5 (the bigger decals take more skill and technique).

Tips - TAKE YOUR TIME !! Otherwise, it’s not very difficult at all.

Notes: I LOVE how it just transforms our bike into something more eye-catching and unique. I tried to install the BIG Phoenix on the frunk, but ended up botching it. So I removed it (with choice words, I might add) and instead installed the smaller Phoenix, which was A LOT better. Going to be interesting to see how they’ll last.

[pegasus1300]

Great write-ups Lou. I have been buying parts from the folks at Diamond R since the early 2000s when all the made were Royal Star accessories. Met them again at D3WR last Summer and bought a Wounded Warrior cup holder and cup from them. I had clamp on flag holders on the luggage rack but they were always tilting. The trunk mounted poles look nice and are always upright. U S Flag and a Temple Riders Flag. Although not a vet I have always had Old Glory somewhere on my bikes. I have the black out wrap from Wrap My Spyder on the lower part of the windshield and it looks good and has held up to bugs and road debris very well so your wrap should do very well.

[Peacekeeper6]

Great write-ups Lou. I have been buying parts from the folks at Diamond R since the early 2000s when all the made were Royal Star accessories. Met them again at D3WR last Summer and bought a Wounded Warrior cup holder and cup from them. I had clamp on flag holders on the luggage rack but they were always tilting. The trunk mounted poles look nice and are always upright. U S Flag and a Temple Riders Flag. Although not a vet I have always had Old Glory somewhere on my bikes. I have the black out wrap from Wrap My Spyder on the lower part of the windshield and it looks good and has held up to bugs and road debris very well so your wrap should do very well.

Thanks Paul.
Yeah, can't remember the name of Diamond R's owner, but he was very personable and patient that I just HAD to give him my business. After a few months with it, I wish there was some sort of locking mechanism so the armrests doesn't move once it's set at a certain position. Other than that, I have been getting a lot of compliments with it.

Many are also digging the decals from Wrap My Spider. I'm hoping to get some custom ones with our names, kind of like the names of fighter jocks stenciled on the side of their F-15s, F-16s, F/A-18s, etc. Hoping that someone will read this post and point me in the right direction....

[CopperSpyder]

Thanks Paul.
Yeah, can't remember the name of Diamond R's owner, but he was very personable and patient that I just HAD to give him my business. After a few months with it, I wish there was some sort of locking mechanism so the armrests doesn't move once it's set at a certain position. Other than that, I have been getting a lot of compliments with it.

Many are also digging the decals from Wrap My Spider. I'm hoping to get some custom ones with our names, kind of like the names of fighter jocks stenciled on the side of their F15s, F16s, F18s, etc. Hoping that someone will read this post and point me in the right direction....

WrapMySpyder will custom make something for you if you have something in mind. Just give Pete a call. As long as your not in a rush.

[Peacekeeper6]

WrapMySpyder will custom make something for you if you have something in mind. Just give Pete a call. As long as your not in a rush.

Thanks Copper !!

[h0gr1der]

I just installed it last Saturday, 2 days ago.

I don't really like to ride in the rain (I'm a fair weather rider with no real rain gear), so that's not a concern. I'll try my best to avoid any puddles or wet spots on the road.

I did try to unhook the left fender to gain a bit more access, but I think my bumpskid was preventing it from moving. Because of this, I didn't bother to unhook the air intake. Like I said, when I decide to remove the frunk for the sway bar install is the time I'll try to reinstall that stupid cap.

I should just run a few strips of duct tape across the opening in the meantime, lol.

I just got done doing this, and I removed the frunk to do it. IMO taking the frunk off is less stressful than trying to get the cover back on the left fog light with the frunk on. I would rate this as about a 3 on your scale, the air intake tube is a chore getting it back on while trying to land the frunk. Takes 2 people too.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?127194-What-did-you-do-to-your-Spyder-today&p=1507940&viewfull=1#post1507940

[pegasus1300]

Thanks Paul.
Yeah, can't remember the name of Diamond R's owner, but he was very personable and patient that I just HAD to give him my business. After a few months with it, I wish there was some sort of locking mechanism so the armrests doesn't move once it's set at a certain position. Other than that, I have been getting a lot of compliments with it.

Many are also digging the decals from Wrap My Spider. I'm hoping to get some custom ones with our names, kind of like the names of fighter jocks stenciled on the side of their F15s, F16s, F18s, etc. Hoping that someone will read this post and point me in the right direction....

His name is Allen at DiamondR. Wrap My Spyder will make anything you need just call and explain what you want.

[Peacekeeper6]

I just got done doing this, and I removed the frunk to do it. IMO taking the frunk off is less stressful than trying to get the cover back on the left fog light with the frunk on. I would rate this as about a 3 on your scale, the air intake tube is a chore getting it back on while trying to land the frunk. Takes 2 people too.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?127194-What-did-you-do-to-your-Spyder-today&p=1507940&viewfull=1#post1507940

Kinda dreading this because it looks very daunting.

I'm sure it's not as bad as it looks....

[Peacekeeper6]

His name is Allen at DiamondR. Wrap My Spyder will make anything you need just call and explain what you want.

Yeah, I'm thinking of starting an e-mail correspondence with them.

[h0gr1der]

Kinda dreading this because it looks very daunting.

I'm sure it's not as bad as it looks....

It's typical Spyder. Looks bad, really pretty easy. Watch the excellent video by PurpleGuy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNd2qmioXkA&feature=youtu.be

The only thing I missed was the Battery Tender harness which I had glued into the frunk grommet, and the USB/Audio cable with a grommet under the frunk liner. Not hard at all. Typical of Spyder procedures, took me about 4 hours, now that I know I could probably do it in 2. It's not heavy, just clumsy to handle. Luckily the frunk has hooks that hang it while you get everything reassembled.

[Peacekeeper6]

7) Lamonster Ultra Bright LED Fog Lights (Take 2) or Removal Of Frunk to facilitate installation


Difficulty Level - 3

Tips - If you have the LED bumpskid, disconnect the wire from the harness. Also, you can leave the bumpskid on without taking it off, but it'll add some weight to make it even MORE bulkier. If you choose to leave it on, just take off the two rearmost bolts.
If you have the Spyclops, disconnect the wire as well. When you disconnect these wires, also cut off all zip ties !! Inside the frunk, fish out all the cables such as the USB and Battery Tender plug and place them on top of the battery. I couldn't remove the switch thingie for the frunk, so I ended up unbolting the frunk latching system which made removing the switch easier. Once you follow these tips, as well as watching numerous YouTube vids on the frunk removal procedure, you and a friend can easily lift it up and out. (Trust me, it's A LOT easier with someone to help you).

FINALLY INSTALLED THAT DAMN COVER OF THE LEFT FOG LIGHT SO THAT I CAN SLEEP BETTER AT NIGHT !!

Prior to reinstallation, tape all the wires of the frunk to the top of it to prevent it from getting pinched between the frame. Also, it helps A LOT if you use hose lube on the air intake to facilitate the reinstallation. Hose lube contains no solvents to damage the rubber and is sold in any marine shops. I also put a dab on the plastic tabs of the tupperware so that it easily slides past the grommets.

Notes: The frunk removal was easier than I thought. I was kind of dreading this procedure, but I am glad I gave it a shot and further expanded my Spyder knowledge. The more I work on it, the easier and more comfortable I get tearing my bike apart. I took my sweet old time, and I ended up spending the better part of the afternoon from start to finish, WITHOUT using any power tools. I suppose I could have used my drill, but I have this fear of cross threading.

[Peacekeeper6]

It's typical Spyder. Looks bad, really pretty easy. Watch the excellent video by PurpleGuy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNd2qmioXkA&feature=youtu.be

The only thing I missed was the Battery Tender harness which I had glued into the frunk grommet, and the USB/Audio cable with a grommet under the frunk liner. Not hard at all. Typical of Spyder procedures, took me about 4 hours, now that I know I could probably do it in 2. It's not heavy, just clumsy to handle. Luckily the frunk has hooks that hang it while you get everything reassembled.

Thanks for that vid and the much-needed encouragement.

You're right, it's about a "3" if you're by yourself, 2.5 if you have an assistant to help you lift it, LOL.

[h0gr1der]

Thanks for that vid and the much-needed encouragement.

You're right, it's about a "3" if you're by yourself, 2.5 if you have an assistant to help you lift it, LOL.

I started out alone, got in a bind and had to scream for reinforcements!

[Peacekeeper6]

8) Not really a mod, but an oil and filter change

Difficulty Level - 1.5 (the .5 is the added stress level of NOT stripping the drain plug as many have done, lol)

Tips - I decided to change the oil and filter at 1000 miles so that the metal shavings during break-in won't further damage the engine. For the RT-L, the transmission drain plug is a 6mm Allen and the main oil drain plug is a Torx 45. BOTH seemed to be torqued down by ROTAX factory-trained gorillas who don't know how to use a damn torque wrench from the assembly plant. Either that, or the robots that install them have their torque settings WAY off. Anyway, the 6mm Allen was easy, probably because I used my trusty 1/2-inch breaker bar that is 18" long. The added leverage made short work of loosening it. For the main drain plug, I heeded the advice of some who said to tap it lightly to "loosen the varnish" prior to loosening it. I went one step further and used my hand impact tool. For those who don't know what it does, it's a tool you use with various bits (Philips, Allen, Torx, etc.) and when you tap it ONCE YOU HAVE IT SQUARELY SET ON THE BOLT/PLUG, it automatically turns and loosens it. I only tapped it 2 or 3 times, then used my big-ass breaker bar. It loosened it NO problem. When you are using such tools, you better make damn sure you are turning the bolt the right way, or else you're in huge trouble. (BTW, it makes it SO MUCH easier to work on this if the bike is raised 8" or so. I have 4 Rhino ramps, so I drove the front wheels on a pair, then used a jack to raise the back end and lowered the rear tire on another Rhino ramp).

Another great tip I used from others is to tape the threads of the main drain plug prior to putting in the new rubber o-rings. Those threads are wicked sharp, and can do damage to the o-rings when trying to install them. Also, I didn't bother using a torque wrench when installing the drain plugs and oil filter housing cap back because of the problems encountered by some. I've snugged down "a few" drain plugs in my life to know exactly when to stop turning. I've got a calibrated elbow, what can I say, LOL.

Notes: I forgot to put some rags around the main oil drain plug, so when it was draining, some of the oil dripped down on one of the bottom panels. Luckily, it wasn't that much and it pooled in the front of the panel, which can be accessed by taking off the bottom left Can-Am labeled tupperware directly in front of my left leg. It was an easy clean-up, and in the future, I might Dremel some material off the bottom panel so it won't do that again. Also, 5 quarts takes the oil level to the MIN mark, so I added another 14 ounces to put it at a level I'm comfortable with.

Don't let a simple oil and filter change procedure intimidate you. With the proper tools, it's not difficult at all.

[Peacekeeper6]

Welp, after much deliberation and thought, I finally decided to pull the trigger on a Baja Ron Swaybar. There were actually two reasons I did it:

(1) There were MANY riders on this thread (https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?125017-What-s-your-best-mod) that highly recommended the sway bar. I figured this many people can't be all wrong, lol.

and

(2) The incredibly thorough installation instructions from Pierre Poliquin of Spyder TV and canamspyderaccessories. His detailed procedures from YouTube gave me confidence to try this mod, and I'm sure it won't be THAT bad (famous last words, right ??). Plus, anybody who can admit that they're just an average mechanic, and can dance like me on a public video forum, pushed me to purchase one of the highly-regarded mods for the Spyder. It's guys like him that makes modifying our bike fun and pleasurable. If I ever see Pierre out on the road, I'm just gonna have to buy him a drink, lol.

Anyway, can't wait to receive it and get started. I even went to the garage and did a quick survey on what to take off. Guess my LED bumpskid will be the first one to go....

[Lew L]

Hi Lou,
The hardest part about the anti-sway bar swap is getting the :spyder2: high enough ( and safely ) off the ground to replace the bar. There are a number of ways to do it.
Lifting in stages with sturdy supports added in each stage. Or long ramps on a truck tailgate. Others will chime in I'm sure. It is one of the best mods you can do to a :spyder2:nojoke

Lew L

[Peacekeeper6]

Hi Lou,
The hardest part about the anti-sway bar swap is getting the :spyder2: high enough ( and safely ) off the ground to replace the bar. There are a number of ways to do it.
Lifting in stages with sturdy supports added in each stage. Or long ramps on a truck tailgate. Others will chime in I'm sure. It is one of the best mods you can do to a :spyder2:nojoke

Lew L

Thanks Lew, I appreciate your advice. I have a feeling my Rhino ramps aren't gonna cut it, so I'm thinking of using my Sears motorcycle lift to see if I can get enough clearance. I just need to slide the bar and blocks off once I disconnect the end links and bolts that secure the blocks. Then slide the new swaybar. Hopefully it shouldn't take more than a few minutes to do that.

[PW2013STL]

Thanks Lew, I appreciate your advice. I have a feeling my Rhino ramps aren't gonna cut it, so I'm thinking of using my Sears motorcycle lift to see if I can get enough clearance. I just need to slide the bar and blocks off once I disconnect the end links and bolts that secure the blocks. Then slide the new swaybar. Hopefully it shouldn't take more than a few minutes to do that.

Yesterday I removed my Ron bar and put the RT bar on my F3 (trading in the F3 for 2020 RT). I am going to use the Ron bar on the new RT. Since you need close to 22" ground clearance I use my Sears lift and raise the Spyder as high as it will go and place my jack stands on pieces of 2x10's, and lower the spyder A arms onto them. I than using a 2x6 wide enough to bridge the arms of the lift( I glued rubber mat onto the face of the 2x6) I lift the Spyder again raising the jack stands until I achieved the height needed.
The issue is that the sway bar passes over the frame and has bent ends so you need to get that high in order to swing it pass the frame.

[Kent]

Thanks this was great and entertaining lol. I can see most of this in my near future.

[triplethreat]

I too bought and installed a Bajaron sway bar. Since I was a new Spyder owner, I knew that I would need a lift for that job, as well as other future work on the RTL. After watching Pierre's video on the install and seeing the lift that he used and recommended, I purchased the PitBull lift that he sells. My previous lift was a pneumatic motorcycle lift and I had just sold that one since I no longer have two wheeled motorcycles. The sale of that one funded the purchase of the new one from Pierre....the PitBull lift. I used it for the install and I highly recommend it if you are looking for a new lift. The PitBull with give you approx. 25" of lift, which is more than sufficient for the sway bar install......and it's as steady as a rock, even when lifted to that height.......very nice.

[Peacekeeper6]

(9) Utopia Built-in Driver's Backrest

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - No real surprise here. The instructions that come with it are incredibly THOROUGH, complete with detailed pictures, descriptions and measurements. The only difficult part was the step prior to installing the actual backrest to the support where I had to struggle with the plastic boot. It is step 17 of 18, lol. The best way to put it on is from the side: push one side on, and then use a screwdriver of the appropriate size and lever the rest of the boot over to the other side. Also there is a step where you had to cut the seat foam. Just use a sharp, serrated knife of decent length because it's a long way down to the seat pan.

Notes: I haven't gotten out for a test ride yet, but from sitting on the bike numerous times to make adjustments to the seat height and angle, I can already tell this mod is going to make a HUGE difference. The type of leather, stitch pattern and color Utopia uses matches the stock BRP passenger backrest. Those guys from OH sure know what the heck they're doing because this backrest just screams QUALITY. I also love the fact that I didn't have to remove the seat, which was very convenient.

[MONK]

(9) Utopia Built-in Driver's Backrest

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - No real surprise here. The instructions that come with it are incredibly THOROUGH, complete with detailed pictures, descriptions and measurements. The only difficult part was the step prior to installing the actual backrest to the support where I had to struggle with the plastic boot. It is step 17 of 18, lol. The best way to put it on is from the side: push one side on, and then use a screwdriver of the appropriate size and lever the rest of the boot over to the other side. Also there is a step where you had to cut the seat foam. Just use a sharp, serrated knife of decent length because it's a long way down to the seat pan.

Notes: I haven't gotten out for a test ride yet, but from sitting on the bike numerous times to make adjustments to the seat height and angle, I can already tell this mod is going to make a HUGE difference. The type of leather, stitch pattern and color Utopia uses matches the stock BRP passenger backrest. Those guys from OH sure know what the heck they're doing because this backrest just screams QUALITY. I also love the fact that I didn't have to remove the seat, which was very convenient.

You should make that "Difficulty Level - .5" :)

I'm on my 2nd Utopia backrest. I had one on my Victory Vision and now one on my Spyder. It was almost my 1st "mod" and when I end up buying up, I'll probably order another Utopia before I buy the next Spyder just so it's ready to go when I am. Bob @ Utopia is a great guy. He answers alot of his own emails (as opposed to most companies who have an office admin reply...no issue with that but not as personal), too.

[Peacekeeper6]

(10) Baja Ron Swaybar

Difficulty Level - 2 (if it weren't for those dang aluminum spacers that came with it, it would've been a 1)

Tips - When the instructions say "You will need 20-22 inches of clearance below the bottom of the frame member (Channel) that holds the sway bar", they weren't kidding. I had mine up in the air and needed juuuust a wee bit more, so luckily I had my motorcycle jack to lift it another inch or two. Also, if ANYBODY has a tip in installing the small aluminum spacers between the top bracket and the end links, I'd like to hear it. After having it fall numerous times on my head, I decided to stop short of super glueing the damn thing but instead taped the end link out of the way and just patiently put it in the old fashioned way. Also, if you have a bumpskid, it is NOT necessary to take it off (I was in the middle of cutting the zip ties and was about to loosen the bolts of the bumpskid when I decided to check it for clearance just for the heck of it. Lucky I did, and an extra step was avoided). BTW, if the old swaybar doesn't slide out one side, try sliding it out the other side. When I tried to slide it off the left side, it just needed a touch more clearance. So I tried to slide it off the right side and lo and behold, it worked. There could have been a metal component that made the right side technique work.

Notes: I didn't have time to take it for a real test ride, but just decided to ride around a couple of blocks. Initial impression suggests that it made the steering "heavier" and the bike wasn't as squirrelly or darty. I can't wait to take it on some of our twisty mountain roads so prevalent in our area. A quick "thank you" to Baja Ron for building such a quality product: comparing the old skinny swaybar to the new beefier one, and comparing the old plastic end links to the new metal ones, it's like night and day. I'm hoping the old handling and the new handling will be as well....

[Peacekeeper6]

You should make that "Difficulty Level - .5" :)

I'm on my 2nd Utopia backrest. I had one on my Victory Vision and now one on my Spyder. It was almost my 1st "mod" and when I end up buying up, I'll probably order another Utopia before I buy the next Spyder just so it's ready to go when I am. Bob @ Utopia is a great guy. He answers alot of his own emails (as opposed to most companies who have an office admin reply...no issue with that but not as personal), too.

That plastic boot increased the difficulty level 0.5 points, lol.

[Peacekeeper6]

(11) Cardo Freecom 4 Plus

Difficulty Level - 1 (hardware), 1.5 (software....I'm not exactly the greatest when it comes to firmware updates).

Tips - Pretty straightforward install. The numerous Cardo videos in YouTube are extremely helpful in both installation and usage.

Notes: This thing is pretty impressive (it had better be for the price I paid for it, LOL). The ear pieces are made by audio giant JBL, and the sound quality is crystal clear. The boom mic is a sturdy piece that is quite sensitive to my voice.

Which brings me to the comm system's pièce de résistance: voice command. Instead of me fumbling around with my iPhone controls (it is Bluetoothed to it) or pushing the dinky buttons on the little control box attached to the side of my helmet, I can just speak to the mic and say, "Hey Cardo, radio on" or "Hey Cardo, volume up" or "Hey Cardo, battery status" or "Hey Cardo, next track" or "Hey Siri, call Jack Reacher" or "Hey Siri, where is the Mustang Ranch ??" (remember it is BT'ed to my iPhone).

Pretty. Friggen. Cool.

Another cool thing is that I can communicate with other riders who do NOT have the same brand as I do, like Sena, which is the other player in this field.

This is our first motorcycle comm system, and it is a definite game-changer.

[Peacekeeper6]

Here is the latest edition of our Spyder, complete with the wrap that I installed myself on both the byke and matching helmets (the Cardo control unit mounting piece on the left side of the helmet and boom mic are easily seen):


https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=182269&d=1592240923


https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=182270&d=1592240923


https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=182271&d=1592240923

[Lew L]

Looks great Lou, We should take a spin up Mt Rose Hwy. or over to VC ( or both).

[Peacekeeper6]

Looks great Lou, We should take a spin up Mt Rose Hwy. or over to VC ( or both).

Thanks !!

A loop around VC or Genoa to South Lake via Kingsbury Grade sounds good.

[Lew L]

What a good day?? I'm free all week. Except for the service charge.:yikes:

Lew L

[Peacekeeper6]

Thought I'd write a quick review/notes on the items I didn't get a chance to fully test:

The test ride consisted of a round-trip sprint from my home (4,100 ft. asl) to Virginia City, NV, (6,100 ft. asl) a total of 52 miles. The road to VC is quite twisty, with elevation changes, fast sweepers and a few slow technical off-camber turns.

(9) Utopia Built-in Driver's Backrest

Notes: I LOVE this thing. It is my first backrest and I just can't believe the level of comfort it provides. It definitely helps lengthen seat time, and I don't get easily tired. The only negative I see is it decreases the room for the passenger, but at the same time, it provides a secure feeling for them in case they think they're going to fall off.

(10) Baja Ron Swaybar

Notes: Twisty and technical mountain roads are when these swaybars shine !! The bike DID handle like night and day when compared to the stock setup, as I thought it would. Our Spyder felt A LOT more composed and surefooted as we blitzed up and down the mountain. In other words, it was extremely easier to keep the bike between the lines at a fast pace. IMHO, anybody who DOESN'T install these sways are doing themselves a huge disservice. They are THAT good. I'd have to say that this swaybar belongs to my top three mods I've installed.

[ned64]

Peacekeeper, I like the design of the wrap you put on your spyder. Question for you. What did you use to remove the decal on the side case before you put the wrap on?

[Peacekeeper6]

Peacekeeper, I like the design of the wrap you put on your spyder. Question for you. What did you use to remove the decal on the side case before you put the wrap on?

ned64, iirc, there were NO decals I removed anywhere on the bike prior to putting on the wraps.

[Peacekeeper6]

What a good day?? I'm free all week. Except for the service charge.:yikes:

Lew L

Thought about calling you yesterday, but my g/f wanted some seat time, and I know she is WAY too slow for you, LOL.

[MONK]

(9) Utopia Built-in Driver's Backrest

Notes: I LOVE this thing. It is my first backrest and I just can't believe the level of comfort it provides. It definitely helps lengthen seat time, and I don't get easily tired. The only negative I see is it decreases the room for the passenger, but at the same time, it provides a secure feeling for them in case they think they're going to fall off.


Here's how much I love the Utopia backrest. I bought one to mount on my Comfort seat. Couldn't be happier w/the backrest however the seat put me too far away from the bars. I swapped back to the stock seat the other day and bought yet another Utopia backrest as the one for the Comfort seat wouldn't fit the stock seat. That's how friggin' much I love the Utopia.

[Peacekeeper6]

Here's how much I love the Utopia backrest. I bought one to mount on my Comfort seat. Couldn't be happier w/the backrest however the seat put me too far away from the bars. I swapped back to the stock seat the other day and bought yet another Utopia backrest as the one for the Comfort seat wouldn't fit the stock seat. That's how friggin' much I love the Utopia.

I like for three reasons:

(1) It looks stock,

(2) Clear and concise instructions make it a breeze to install and,

(3) I didn't have to remove the whole seat (although I have done it before to install the Diamond R armrests).

[DGoebel]

PK6, did you ever have or use a Sena system before this Cardo system?

[Peacekeeper6]

PK6, did you ever have or use a Sena system before this Cardo system?

DGoebel, the Cardo is my first.

When I was researching various brands, I considered Sena because it seemed like it was a major brand that everyone liked. However, I have heard that if gets wet and malfunctions, Sena won't repair or replace the unit, so you're basically SOL.

The Cardo seems better built with regards to water. I believe it's waterproof to IP6 or something like that. I haven't heard much about UClear, but many seemed to like it.

Good luck in your decision. I believe for our application, the Cardo Freecom 4 Plus is the best system out there.

Check it out:

https://youtu.be/fh45sYfDtl4

[Peacekeeper6]

UPDATE:

8) High Mount Brake/Run/Turn Taillights with Plug-n-Play Harness

The double-sided tape adhesive that secures the light to the bike gets weaker over time. I discovered this when I did a quick "pre-flight" (once a Huey crewchief, always a Huey crewchief, lol) and discovered the whole light assembly was just hanging on the last tape (there are 3). The other 2 just detached from the bike.

So, a quick trip to Autozone to buy the 3M double-sided tape should hopefully last longer. If it doesn't, I welcome any suggestions that will prevent this from happening again.

[MONK]

Heat is the killer. I added one of those organizers in the trunk of my '18 RTL. I'm glad it's partly attached w/screws cuz the tape is worthless. It's not the "good stuff" but still should have held. I cleaned w/alcohol and used a primer stick, too. That trunk (not frunk) gets hot. I know your 3rd brake light is out in the open but it's directly under the sun.

[Peacekeeper6]

Heat is the killer. I added one of those organizers in the trunk of my '18 RTL. I'm glad it's partly attached w/screws cuz the tape is worthless. It's not the "good stuff" but still should have held. I cleaned w/alcohol and used a primer stick, too. That trunk (not frunk) gets hot. I know your 3rd brake light is out in the open but it's directly under the sun.

Well, I'm hoping the 3M tape will do the trick. It seems to be a bit more stickier than the stock tape I removed, but the sun may have already damaged it and made it less sticky. However, I cut the new 3M tape a little longer and wider, so hopefully it'll stick better and longer.

I don't think it is possible to use screws because the light fixture seems thin and frail and there's no real place to drive the screws in.

If it falls off again, I might have to use some type of glue....

[MONK]

I wasn't suggesting you use screws on the 3rd brake light. I was saying the trunk organizer utilizes some of the stock screws/bolts and if it weren't for those, my trunk organizer would end up in the bottom of the trunk.

[Peacekeeper6]

Not a mod per se, but a shout out to my standup sales professional at Elk Grove Powersports in Elk Grove, CA by the name of Shane Ford, who sold us our Spyder last year. Extremely patient, knowledgeable and is available from the point of sale to actual delivery, he’ll be there every step of the way to make sure your vehicle is well taken care of. It’s worth the drive !!

If any of you are in the market for a Spyder, motorcycle, watercraft or side-by-side, he’s the Go To Guy.

Check out my Yelp review under “Lou B.”.

[Peacekeeper6]

12) Lamonster NBV Highway Brackets with IPS Accent Cut Finish Gripper Pegs

Difficulty Level - 1.5

Tips - One of THE best vids on this is done by CoachBob3: https://youtu.be/TTBxeZrDjNw. There is something about his demeanor during his vids that gives me confidence that I could do ANY mods. His easy-going style and sense of humor make it enjoyable to watch and learn. He offers invaluable tips that make the install go easier. I did, however, run into a small problem reinstalling the rear pushpins on the bottom of the air/water deflectors after I bolted on the brackets. Because the brackets made those holes misaligned, I ended up replacing the pushpins with heavy-duty zip ties. If I didn't struggle a little bit putting those deflectors back on, I'd have given it a "1" on the Difficulty Level. Also, when you install those decorative caps, make sure to tighten the set screws on the FLAT part of the huge nut. It's so tempting to hide them on the very bottom, but sometimes that's not where the flat part is. IMHO, there is LESS of a chance of those covers falling off IF you tighten those set screws at the right spot.

Notes: I didn't go on a test ride yet, but sitting on it to position the pegs proves to me that this mod is going to make a HUGE difference. I have floorboards, but it's just really nice to stretch out my legs during long highway cruising. I have highway pegs on my Harley, and I *KNOW* how comfy they can be. The IPS Gripper Pegs with Accent Cut Finish not only provide comfort, but first and foremost, they look cool.

Because after all, "image is everything", LOL.

[Lew L]

Hey Lou,
Did you see my post about the footrests I made????

[Peacekeeper6]

Hey Lou,
Did you see my post about the footrests I made????

I did not.

I’ve been off this forum for a few months. Can you post some pics ??

[Lew L]

I did not.

I’ve been off this forum for a few months. Can you post some pics ??

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?134746-Homemade-hwy-foot-rests

There ya go--------I find them very comfortable as my heel still rests on the floorboard and my feet aren't out in the wind much.

Lew L

[Peacekeeper6]

Nice Lew !!

I should've had you make me a set. I'd have a lot more money left in my bank account for other farkles, that's for sure....

[Lew L]

Always ask the metal worker for metal work.:thumbup:

[Peacekeeper6]

13) Mo-Door Garage Door Opener with OEM-style rocker switch

Difficulty Level - 2

Tips - Get a tool that can EASILY remove those rocker switch covers. Seriously. This was the first mod in which I hurt myself. While prying up on the stupid cover, my screwdriver slipped and made a nice gash on the tip of my ring finger of my left hand. I knew it was deep because there was a trail of blood from my garage to the kitchen. Figures right ?? Mod #13, lol. Also, I'm not so sure zip tying the excess wire at the switch end was such a good idea, because should the battery of the opener needs replacing, I'm going to have to contend with prying up that stupid switch again. I should've zip tied the excess at the box end....or I should've never zip tied it at all. But I have this fear of having the wire getting tangled because of the proximity to the handlebar, and I decided to heed the warning of Brandon from Slingmods. You know, "make sure the wires are up and out of the way, of any and all, moving parts", lol.

Notes: I really like this mod because I don't have to play "musical openers" with my vehicles. Also, the OEM-style rocker switch that operates the opener looks stock. Programming the opener was a piece of cake, but installing it was a whole other matter. Usually for me, it's the other way around. It's easily a 15 minute job, but my struggles with the switch cover and not damaging anything else made the job 4 times as long.

Anyway, if any of you guys can offer tips on easily removing those damn covers, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks....

[Peacekeeper6]

14) AirHawk Comfort Seat Pad

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - For the driver, get the Cruiser R (Large). It fits perfectly. I would venture to guess that it would fit the passenger section as well, but we don't do too much 2-up riding. Also, take heed of the fact from the supplied instructions and the advice of other riders in the Internet that it DOES NOT need a large amount of air. That is, the "ideal inflation is about 1/2 inches off the seat. You should be able to feel the air transferring beneath you slightly" (by leaning your body side-to-side). I did just that, and will test it out tomorrow on a group ride. Hopefully, it will eliminate some of the hot spots I experienced with just the stock seat.

Notes: I thought about getting the gel pad or sheepskin, but there were some disadvantages from what I've read. The gel doesn't quite spread out your body weight as effectively as the air cells, which again causes hot spots. The sheepskin, if it does get soaked from the rain, won't dry as fast. If this AirHawk doesn't work as advertised, I might have to look at other options such as a custom seat, but I'm not really prepared to spend hundreds of dollars for one just yet.

[Lew L]

Hi Lou,
Nova uses one on the Spyder and I just bought one to use on the V-Max. They work Great once properly adjusted.

[Peacekeeper6]

Hi Lou,
Nova uses one on the Spyder and I just bought one to use on the V-Max. They work Great once properly adjusted.

I've actually never seen an AirHawk pad until we went on our group ride to Graegle. That is when I noticed you had one on your bike.

I researched it and found out how it can cure the issues I was having with the stock seat. The group ride yesterday proved how well it worked. I do still have some hot spots, but it's probably because I'm skinny have no fat on my a**, LOL. However, it sure beats shelling out close to $1,000 on the custom seat ANY day !!

[Lew L]

Better seating........

I also bought one for my poor, old, slow V-Max to help with the Corbin saddle I bought a decade + ago. The Corbin has NEVER "broken in " like they said it wood. ( get it --- cause it's like sitting on a wooden bench.)

A great ryde with Battle Born Spyders yesterday. Wish that bar and grill up at Kirkwood was open though.

Lew L

[Peacekeeper6]

15) Show Chrome LED Saddle Bag Marker Running and Turn Signals with Lamonster Wiring Harness

Difficulty Level - 1.5

Tips - If you do NOT like splicing wires and wrapping electrical tape, I highly suggest you spring for the extra money and buy the wiring harness. I have installed the Show Chrome High Mount Brake/Run/Turn about a year ago, and that also had the wiring harness. For complete plug-n-play, just connect the harnesses in series and you're good to go. Also, those stock reflectors are stuck on there pretty good, so just use a hair dryer and soften the adhesive for easier removal.

Notes: I can't believe how BRIGHT these LEDs are. I thought for sure that daisy-chaining the two electrical components would result in dim lighting, but both the saddle bag marker light and the high mount brake light are as bright as can be. The saddle bag lights also double as a turn signal lights, and when I tested it out for the first time, I didn't encounter the dreaded hyper flash. Yay !! The lights didn't use very much adhesive tape as the stock reflectors, and I'm wondering if the 3M adhesive would be durable enough. I guess only time will tell. I have some spare double-sided 3M tape I used when my third brake light housing started coming off in case it happens to these lights as well.

[Peacekeeper6]

16) Show Chrome Front Fender LED Reflectors Next Gen with Lamonster Wiring Harness

Difficulty Level - 1.5

Tips - If you do NOT like splicing wires and wrapping electrical tape, the supplied Power Bridges make short, simple work of connecting the turn signal and running lights. So spring for these harnesses if they don't come with the kit. Also, if you are taking the front wheels off for the very first time, I highly, HIGHLY, suggest you use an impact wrench. I tried the "old school" way and ended up just spinning the wheels. I think these lug nuts are spun on by automated robots, and again, their torque settings are set WAY too high.

Notes: I can't believe how BRIGHT these LEDs are. Now that I have the high-mount LED Trunk Brake/Turn Signals, the LED Saddle Bag Marker Running/Turn Signals and now the Front Fender LED reflectors, I can now be safely seen from ALL angles. I firmly believe that the more lights you install, the more chances of you being seen, and the less chances of some idiot hitting you because they're not paying attention. The beauty of all these mods is it looks TOTALLY STOCK. It's as though they were made for my bike by BRP !! In my opinion, for the price we pay for our bikes, these lights should have come installed straight from the factory. I can't wait to ride back from work at 0200 in the morning on a dark street and be seen from the International Space Station, LOL.

[Lew L]

Hey Lou,
Your ryde is already bright( from the front) and now the sides also. I put these on a while ago and they are BRIGHT. A great mod

We really should hit the slopes soon. Let me know when you want to slide down the mountain.

Lew L

[Peacekeeper6]

Hey Lou,
Your ryde is already bright( from the front) and now the sides also. I put these on a while ago and they are BRIGHT. A great mod

We really should hit the slopes soon. Let me know when you want to slide down the mountain.

Lew L

Roger that.

I might go this Sunday, definitely Friday the 19th.

I need to retire, LOL.

[Peacekeeper6]

17) Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal (I actually installed this a few weeks after I got our Spyder 1 1/2 years ago, but totally forgot to write about it)

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - Like the flag holders, Magic Mirrors, Airhawk Seat Pad, this is about as straight forward and simple as one can get with regards to installation. I mean, if you can't even take out two bolts, remove the old pedal, and install a bigger pedal, you really have no business wrenching on your own bike.

Notes: I just knew when I saw the stock pedal that I had to absolutely do something about it. Not only is it dinky and uncomfortable (I was actually pressing it down with my toes), but it is a true safety hazard in my opinion. I wanted the balls of my feet, not my toes, to have contact with the pedal. Plus, during an emergency panic stop, I wanted to make sure I was able to quickly hit the pedal and apply as much weight as I can. It's a good thing too, because not long after I installed it, I had to jam on the brakes because someone cut me off while I was traveling at a high rate of speed.

I believe that this mod wins the highest ratio of ease of installation to safety factor.

[Peacekeeper6]

18) Crazy Metalman Key Holder

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - Don't strip the screws that hold it together, lol. But seriously, a 5-year old can easily install this.

Notes: There's a reason why this key holder is pricey: it's well-made and it looks high-end. You can spend your money on other key holders that are worth 1/4 of the price, but they just don't look or feel as good as this one. But even the cheaper ones are a better option than drilling a hole in your key, because I believe doing so will compromise the integrity of the key's protective case, since moisture from rain can make its way to the sensitive electronics embedded inside it.

[Mikey]

You know sooner or later you have to redo your picture on your page, so that we will get the whole, before and after affects, because some of the things you have done are to the outside of your ride!!:clap::nopic:

[Peacekeeper6]

You know sooner or later you have to redo your picture on your page, so that we will get the whole, before and after affects, because some of the things you have done are to the outside of your ride!!:clap::nopic:

You're right, my sig pic really needs to be updated, LOL.

[Peacekeeper6]

19) Lamonster Double Vision Daytime Running Lights (4 A-arms)

Difficulty Level - 1.5

Tips - These LED strips are a bit too long. I had to measure it and cut about 2.75" off the ends. I don't want to say 2.75" is THE length to cut off if or when you receive yours, because these may come from different manufacturers with different lengths. I suggest to measure yours prior to cutting it to make sure it fits correctly. The strip has SPECIFIC lines where you can cut so that you don't destroy one of the LED lights.

Notes: I REALLY like how these double A-arm lights transform our bike. I also have the lighted bumpskid and Spyclops II, both LEDs, and it matches them perfectly. If motorists can't see me coming, they're either blind as a bat, or they're busy screwing around with the controls of their radio. They are THAT noticeable, and increases the safety factor even more.



20) WOLO Bad Boy Air Horn

Difficulty Level - 1.5

Tips - Raise the bike for better access underneath. Also, to make it easier on yourself, connect the supplied wiring harness to the horn prior to installing it on the bracket. When you try to connect this wiring harness to the stock bike's original horn wiring, remove the stock horn (just remove the nut). Doing so WILL give you more room to connect them. Then just zip tie the wiring to the hole in the bracket where the stock horn was.

Notes: I'm not exactly sure if the WOLO is any louder than stock, but IF it is, it's very negligible. However, I DO like the tone better, so I guess it was a worthwhile upgrade.



21) RLS Cat Delete Muffler (chrome)

Difficulty Level - 2.0 (if you're old and have lost a lot of muscle strength, have your son or grandson deal with those pesky springs)

Tips - Raise the bike for better access underneath. The bottom two springs are *relatively* easy, but IF you can't remove the springs, try tying a paracord on the supplied spring removal tool. Measure the paracord long enough so that you can use your LEGS instead, because your leg muscles are bigger and A LOT stronger than your arm muscles. I had to do this to remove the top spring. The weird thing was, I didn't have to use this paracord trick to reinstall that same spring. I suppose I finally got the technique right during the second go-around. I would access the top spring from the RIGHT side of the pipe as well. Also, put a little lube on the mounting bars of the new cat delete pipe. Doing so makes it slide easier for a more positive connection.

Notes: I let the bike idle for 10 minutes so the bike's ECU can adjust to the new change. I noticed two things: (1) it has a throatier growl, and (2) it made my garage stink. I took it out for a quick test ride and noticed that it seemed quicker on acceleration. This is probably because I installed the supplied baffle to maintain some backpressure. Coupled with my Two Brothers Racing exhaust, it has a WAY better sound than stock. In addition, this cat delete from RLS not only sounds good, but LOOKS good too. It's such a shame that it's not easily seen and admired due to its location. IMHO, it's one of the better made and better looking cat delete pipes available.

(I installed all 3 mods in one afternoon, as you can see by the difficulty level).

[Lew L]

.

Ya know Lou-------

I often have a flair for the " understatement" BUT ----- Your ryde can be seen from the ISS!!

Speaking of the ISS. There is a website http://www.heavens-above.com that calls out the satellite passes. It's fairly easy to use( But you must give the city location in the upper right corner of the home page) and the ISS often puts on quite a show as at high azimuth passes it is as bright as Venus but moving.

Lew L

[Peacekeeper6]

.

Ya know Lou-------

I often have a flair for the " understatement" BUT ----- Your ryde can be seen from the ISS!!

Speaking of the ISS. There is a website http://www.heavens-above.com that calls out the satellite passes. It's fairly easy to use( But you must give the city location in the upper right corner of the home page) and the ISS often puts on quite a show as at high azimuth passes it is as bright as Venus but moving.

Lew L

Funny how in my first post, I thought having LEDs on all 4 A-arms would be "over the top". Guess that proves that nothing is really "written in stone" when it comes to mods. Now I can be seen not only from the ISS, but from the satellite orbiting Mars, LOL.

Thanks for that website, Lew. I am a space nerd myself (LOVE all the "Star Trek" series/movies, as well as "Star Wars"). I used to have an app called "Star Walk" or "Star Tracker" that would show where the constellations were in the sky. Pretty neat.

Anyway, hope you can organize a ride with our group soon when it gets a bit warmer. Kinda over the snow and skiing/snowboarding, it's time to hop on our 2 or 3 wheeled bikes and ride ....

[Peacekeeper6]

22) Lamonster IPS Bar End Caps

Difficulty Level - 1.0

Tips - If you try and install one bar end cap and it doesn't look or feel right, try switching it to the other. When I initially installed my left bar end, I noticed it stuck WAY out. I figured there's NO WAY Lamont and his crew would supply me with such an accessory that doesn't look good. That's not the "Lamonster Way", lol. I didn't notice a "R" or "L" mark in the packaging, but just got excited about installing it because they do look pretty sharp.

Notes: I had two Lidlox bar end helmet holders, but found that I wasn't using them as much as I wanted. I think it's because when I hang my helmet(s), the wind tends to hit them and in turn, hits my bike (yes, it's often pretty windy out here in NV). Also, when it rains hard, these things become BRP Water Collectors. I guess that's a good thing ........ if you were selected as a participant in the next "Naked and Afraid" episode. So I just started placing my helmets on the seat and securing them with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Dakine-10002709-Cool-Lock/dp/B07PVZJP9T/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1QD55NCGTY7K2&keywords=cable+lock+dakine&qid=1656296241&sprefix=cable+lock+dakine%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-2

(It wasn't an additional expense, because I also use this cable lock to secure my skis or snowboard when I go to the lodge and have a few coldies).

Anyway, ever since I started doing this, I also found that my seat remains cool, since our helmets provide shade. That is why I decided to remove the Lidlox and replace them with these IPS Caps which look A LOT better.

[Peacekeeper6]

Not much mod per se, but just a quick tip.

I also frequent the many pages on Facebook involving Spyders. Many times, I run across owners breaking their latch release on their side compartments when they're trying to open them. I think this happens because the compartment doesn't open, so they end up using MORE force, hoping it'll release.

DO NOT PULL THE LATCH WITH GORILLA FORCE !! IT WILL NOT OPEN, AND YOU WILL END UP BREAKING IT !!!!

My left side compartment wasn't releasing open, so I decided to YouTube the problem. Lo and behold, there's some helpful Spyder Ryder who has documented the cable adjustment, and I just followed his clear and thorough instructions. Fifteen minutes later (I take my sweet old time), the problem was solved, and I now have a fully functional side compartment latch release.

So, what's the lesson here ??

IF you encounter the same problem, do NOT force the issue. You WILL end up making the problem worse. If you don't know the difference between a Torx 30 and a 4mm Allen, find a fellow rider who can turn a wrench and see if you can offer him a six-pack of his favorite drink while he adjusts your cable. Trust me, it's no skin off his back, and you *may* actually learn something about fixing your bike should the other side happens to start acting up.

Anyway, that's my rant.

Have a good day ....

[Peacekeeper6]

BTW, if anyone is interested in TWO Lidlox helmet locks, please don't hesitate to PM me.

(They are about 2 years old, but I dropped and lost one of the small set screws when I initially installed it. However, I've found that it still works without it).

[Peacekeeper6]

23) Trimming off some plastic underneath engine oil drain plug

Difficulty Level - 1.0

Tips - Jack up the bike for easier access. You can use a Dremel and trim off a small section just forward of the drain plug while it's still attached to the bike. If you do not have access to such tool, the panel can be easily removed because it is attached with only push pins. You can then use a pair of tin snips to easily cut through the plastic. I had to do the latter because I couldn't find my Dremel for the life of me, LOL.

Notes: "Why would you do such a thing", you ask yourself. Well, the last time I performed an oil change, the part of the hot oil stream that was draining was hitting this panel. This resulted in a mess, but was easily cleaned by removing the lower left body panel (the one that seems to always fly off) and then wiping the top of the panel. By making the hole a bit bigger, it will result in cleaner oil changes in the future.

(I'm betting dimes to donuts that there are a lot of Spyders out there that have this panel with a THICK coat of oil and dirt, resulting is a layer of "insulation", which isn't a good thing. This is why it is imperative (IMHO, anyway) that when the oil is draining that some of it isn't being caught by this panel).

[Haze]

Good job for the RT.
Thanks for the explanation.

[Peacekeeper6]

Good job for the RT.
Thanks for the explanation.

Yes, you are correct. I believe this mod applies only to the RT.

We tried to do this mod on your F3, but it wasn't necessary, iirc.

Let's get the group together and ryde soon !!

[EdMat]

23) Trimming off some plastic underneath engine oil drain plug

Just take it off and leave it off. Help a lot with the rising heat. Thought it would cause a lot of crud to collect but that has turned out not to be the case.

[UtahPete]

23) Trimming off some plastic underneath engine oil drain plug. Difficulty Level - 1.0

(I'm betting dimes to donuts that there are a lot of Spyders out there that have this panel with a THICK coat of oil and dirt, resulting is a layer of "insulation", which isn't a good thing. This is why it is imperative (IMHO, anyway) that when the oil is draining that some of it isn't being caught by this panel).

Great idea.
197369

197370

[Peacekeeper6]

Just take it off and leave it off. Help a lot with the rising heat. Thought it would cause a lot of crud to collect but that has turned out not to be the case.

Yeah, or you can do that.

However, it is my opinion that it's better to leave it on for two reasons:

(1) it offers protection against any road debris (small rocks, gravel, etc.) and decreases the dirt collecting in the nooks and crannies of the machine, and

(2) it aids in the airflow from front to back when the bike is traveling at speed, which gives it a more efficient cooling effect.

[Peacekeeper6]

Great idea.
197369

197370

Love the small sticker denoting the size of the bit to use. I ended up buying the magnetic engine and transmission oil plugs that are hex, and will install them on the next oil change.

My cuts are a bit neater. I started with my Dremel Saw-Max tool and made one cut, but quickly realized that that it would end up pretty sloppy. The tool wasn't as manueverable as I thought, so I ended up removing the panel and finished it off with a pair of tin snips. Pretty happy with the results because it looks stock.

Too bad it's not easily seen and admired, lol.

[UtahPete]

Love the small sticker denoting the size of the bit to use. I ended up buying the magnetic engine and transmission oil plugs that are hex, and will install them on the next oil change.

My cuts are a bit neater. I started with my Dremel Saw-Max tool and made one cut, but quickly realized that that it would end up pretty sloppy. The tool wasn't as manueverable as I thought, so I ended up removing the panel and finished it off with a pair of tin snips. Pretty happy with the results because it looks stock.

Too bad it's not easily seen and admired, lol.

A craftsman I'm not!

The "sticker" is a piece of white duct tape. I use it a lot to label stuff.

[Peacekeeper6]

A craftsman I'm not!

Haha !!

Just as long as it works as intended, that's all that really matters !!

[Peter Aawen]

A craftsman I'm not!

Construction & Structural Engineers don't hafta be neat, Pete! :thumbup:

[UtahPete]

Construction & Structural Engineers don't hafta be neat, Pete! :thumbup:

Yeah, cladding covers a lot of mistakes!

[UtahPete]

Welp, after much deliberation and thought, I finally decided to pull the trigger on a Baja Ron Sway bar.

Anyway, can't wait to receive it and get started. I even went to the garage and did a quick survey on what to take off. Guess my LED bumpskid will be the first one to go....

I didn't have to remove the bumpskid for the sway bar replace project.

[Peacekeeper6]

I didn't have to remove the bumpskid for the sway bar replace project.

I didn't either. That friggen thing is surprisingly heavy.

What do you think of your new swaybar ??

[UtahPete]

I didn't either. That friggen thing is surprisingly heavy.

What do you think of your new swaybar ??

It looks great. Unfortunately I haven't been able to ride it yet.

[Peacekeeper6]

It looks great. Unfortunately I haven't been able to ride it yet.

Once you get a few miles with it, please write a review on it.

Curious to know what you think.

Thanks.

[Peacekeeper6]

24) Lamonster IPS Belt Tensioner

Difficulty Level - 1.5

Tips - Before you start, MAKE SURE THE BELT IS POSITIONED CORRECTLY !! If you tend to reverse your bike in your garage and start to work on it, you *MAY* find out that it won’t be centered after stopping in the forward motion, as in pulling forward into a parking spot. Why ?? The belt tends to “walk” a millimeter or two (perhaps more) between the forward and reverse motion of the rear wheel. If you install it after you reverse your bike into your garage, the roller might not be perfectly centered in the forward motion where it is supposed to be, and it is IMPERATIVE that it is dead center on the belt to maximize its effectiveness.



You WILL take off a few body panels, so if you tend to forget which fasteners go to which panel, try this trick as explained to me by my fellow Spyder Ryder Lew: when you remove the screws and push pins of a body panel, place ALL those fasteners in a Ziploc baggie and tape it on that panel. Then, when the time comes to install that panel back, you know EXACTLY which fasteners to use on it.

Notes: Lew was kind enough to give me his old tensioner (more like a dampener really) because I was still “on the fence” and very undecided on whether or not to install one. To me, it’s just another thing that can fail. But after watching this particular YouTube video, https://youtu.be/3eDlpv7Ks54, I decided I would install it. When I inspected the dampener that Lew gave me, I noticed that the roller was incredibly dinky. The small diameter roller would mean that it would end up spinning at stratospherically high rpms when I’m riding above 65 mph, resulting in A LOT of heat that would make the tensioner’s roller fail. Perhaps that is the reason why he upgraded to Lamonster’s tensioner, because his roller is substantially larger with TWO bearings. This means that the larger roller (which also seems smoother) will spin at lesser rpms and with those two bearings, result in less heat buildup and longer tensioner/roller life. These two reasons are why I decided to go ahead and purchase the IPS Belt Tensioner, instead of installing the one that Lew gave me.

I would’ve given this mod a 1.0, but the rear bolt proved just a bit difficult to install. The front one was easy, but I was a bit surprised that the second one fought me a little. I don’t feel too bad, because in the installation video, Lamont Bryden (the Mastermind behind Lamonster Garage) was also having the same problem, LOL.

I tested it the next day by going on the interstate and accelerating to 85 mph. When I didn’t have the tensioner, my bike would experience severe vibrations that were unnerving at speeds above 65 mph. However, I’ve found that my new tensioner GREATLY reduced the vibrations, to the point of not being able to feel them any longer. Smooth as silk !! This may also be because Lew, Dave (another local Spyder Ryder) and I reduced my belt tension from the factory setting of 220 to 150 using the Gates Krickit device. Lowering the tension AND installing this beefy (it really is a work of art: form AND function, “ya cain’t beat it !!”) tensioner completely changed my bike for the better.

Honestly, the only negative I can think of is inspecting/replacing the roller every 15,000 miles, as recommended by Lamont, who I believe is the designer of this worthwhile, high-quality product. (It seems like all of his IPS products are not only aesthetically pleasing, but screams “QUALITY”. That is why I didn’t hesitate buying this tensioner. Again, there is a reason why his products are on the upper end of the price scale, because quality and durability don’t come cheap). He really did an awesome job improving a poorly-designed part and making it look good AND, more importantly, making it perform flawlessly.

[UtahPete]

Once you get a few miles with it, please write a review on it.

Curious to know what you think.

Thanks.

I did write a review and responded to your poll.

[Peacekeeper6]

"I am glad for the improved cornering ability when pushing the machine's limits, but I didn't need it for routine riding." -UtahPete

I see that, LOL.

[UtahPete]

(on another thread...)

Took mine for a little spin today to check out the sway bar. It does make a noticeable difference in how the bike handles at speed in the twisties. It's steadier and flatter. I don't get the diving and rebounding any more.

After checking it out on the back roads, I tried the highway. There's a section of I-80 east of US-40 that enters a very twisty section where the advisory for trucks is 35-45mph. There's been two truck accidents there in the past week where the trucks tipped over, spilling their loads; one was bees and the other chocolate.

Anyway, I ran that 5 miles well over the posted speed limit (80+) and the bike was steady as a rock. A Mazda gave chase for awhile but backed off in the twistiest stuff.

I'm happy with the sway bar upgrade. Let the tut-tutting begin...

[Peacekeeper6]

(on another thread...)

Took mine for a little spin today to check out the sway bar. It does make a noticeable difference in how the bike handles at speed in the twisties. It's steadier and flatter. I don't get the diving and rebounding any more.

After checking it out on the back roads, I tried the highway. There's a section of I-80 east of US-40 that enters a very twisty section where the advisory for trucks is 35-45mph. There's been two truck accidents there in the past week where the trucks tipped over, spilling their loads; one was bees and the other chocolate.

Anyway, I ran that 5 miles well over the posted speed limit (80+) and the bike was steady as a rock. A Mazda gave chase for awhile but backed off in the twistiest stuff.

I'm happy with the sway bar upgrade. Let the tut-tutting begin...

There's ALWAYS gonna be some nay-sayer that'll say, "Oh, don't be like everybody else and upgrade the swaybar. It's not gonna make one bit of difference. Just lighten up your grip and you'll get used to it. So save your money because the swaybar is just a waste of money."

I always reply to them, "Well, have you EVER ridden a Spyder that has an upgraded swaybar ??"

Silence.

I was one of those who wasn't convinced that piece of thicker bar and a couple of metal thingies is going to do jack to my bike. But after reading MANY riders who were happy they did it, I figured those NO FRIGGEN WAY they were wrong.

So I took the plunge.

I am a TRUE believer of the Baja Ron swaybar. It really transformed my bike to something I feel safe and secure in (i.e. more composed), and not some machine that's twitchy and handles like it's high on meth.

[Peacekeeper6]

25) Show Chrome M14-1.5/M12-1.5 Magnetic Drain Plugs

Difficulty Level - 1.0

Tips - Honestly, if you cannot perform the simple procedure of changing the oil on your bike, you best leave this to someone who can. It’s just a matter of replacing the factory drain plugs which can be easily stripped if you can’t tell the difference between a Torx and an Allen head. I’ve heard of MANY DIYers who have stripped them (lord knows how), so if you are one of them, it behooves you to replace those stockers with these plugs.



BTW, when you install the new magnetic engine oil drain plug, PUT A NEW METAL GASKET IN FIRST. Otherwise, if you put the rubber o-rings first, you’ll end up taking them off again because the metal gasket won’t easily pass through. Don’t ask me how I know ….

Notes: Another great product from Show Chrome. I like the fact that the engine oil drain plug has a magnet to attract any metallic particles that can damage the engine. The stock one does not, which is yet another way of BRP to save money during production. The hex heads are a god send; that means I can just bring my rack of sockets instead of my rack of Torx AND Allen bits. (Just WTH was BRP thinking when designing these simple plugs anyway ??). The positive engagement between the new drain plugs and my socket (if you can, ALWAYS use a 6-point instead of a 12 to reduce the possibility of rounding out the head and stripping them that way) will make oil changes SO MUCH easier, less stressful and a “bit” faster (see what I did there ??).

[Peacekeeper6]

26) Redesigned Turn Signal Button/Shifter Pad by TCBoone and FrogmanDave

Difficulty Level - 0.5 (probably THE easiest mod I've installed)

Tips - Use a small-bladed screwdriver to pop the turn signal button. Gorilla force is not required, but be careful it doesn't pop off and fly past your eyeballs like a TOW missile. I was VERY gingerly prying mine off and it did just that (don't know why). I wanted to see how the old button was situated, so that I know where the hole on the back goes. If you look at the switch tab, there is more room on the top; I surmised that the hole would be on the bottom and I was right. It slid right on.

Before you rip the adhesive thingie off the shifter pad and slap it on, TEST FIT it on the paddle shifter first. You will notice it's not exactly cut to fit the whole area. There will be a .25mm gap around the whole thing, and I think sticking it on this way looks a little better. The ONLY (very minor) complaint I have is I wish both components weren't so shiny and were made with a little flatter black matte color to better match the bike, but I'm just nitpicking here.

Notes: Initial feel indicates that these are worthwhile mods. I didn't get a chance to try them out because it was too cold and windy to ride, but judging from the MANY who have, it's WELL worth it.

Thanks to TCBoone and FrogmanDave in designing such elegantly-simple components which will make a HUGE difference I'm sure.

[Peacekeeper6]

Finally got a chance to test out the Turn Signal Button/Shifter Pad by TCBoone and FrogmanDave during a ride last Saturday.

Turn Signal Button - works great. No more erroneous cancellation of the turn signals and looking like an idiot to other motorists. The safety factor is vastly improved because the button is easily accessible due to its larger size AND I don't have to look down anymore and seeing if I cancelled it. Anytime I can keep my eyes on the road is ALWAYS a good thing.

Shifter Pad - This mod is DA BOMB (that means "wicked good" to those who don't know the modern slang term). I thought about upgrading to the current improved version (the one that gets progressively thicker at the bottom), but I found that with my small hands and short fingers, I was only hitting the top half of the button, which means the newer version isn't going to do jack. The thickness is just right for me, and I found upshifting A LOT easier and a nanosecond faster, since my thumb can easily find the button to fire up faster upshifts. (Those with larger "Sasquatch" hands will definitely benefit with the newer shifter pad, I'm sure).

I believe that this mod wins the coveted easy-to-install/highly-effective Ratio Factor. And the fact that it was inexpensive compared to my other mods is just icing on the cake.

[Peacekeeper6]

Haven't gotten bitten by the Mod Bug this year, LOL.

Need some ideas, folks !!!!

[FrogmanDave]

Haven't gotten bitten by the Mod Bug this year, LOL.

Need some ideas, folks !!!!

Add a subwoofer and amplifier.

[Peacekeeper6]

Add a subwoofer and amplifier.

TBH, I don't find riding while listening to music particularly pleasurable. Too much wind noise for my taste.

Plus, my RLS cat delete and Two Brothers Racing exhaust easily drowns out any music that can come from a sub and amp upgrade, LOL.

[Lew L]

. And that's why you're ryding sweep------:joke::joke::joke:

[Peter Aawen]

Haven't gotten bitten by the Mod Bug this year, LOL.

Need some ideas, folks !!!!

I just had a quick look back thru this thread again, and unless I missed it, it looks like you haven't had an ECU Upgrade done yet?? :shocked: Why on earth not?? :dontknow: Not just a 'Pedal Commander' or 'Power Commander' that enhances your throttle response without changing any if the tuning/power/performance parameters, but a proper ECU Upgrade that removes some of the (needlessly restrictive?? :p ) power constraints that've been imposed on our Spyders AND improves/enhances the throttle response too - altho if you want to add a Power Commander later just to make things even more responsive.... :rolleyes:

Go On, DO IT!! You'll be gob-smacked at how much 'nicer' your Spyder becomes to ride when you unleash a bit more of the power your motor was designed to produce, only for it be choked down & significantly restricted apparently because BRP's lawyers feel that responsible & capable riders simply can't trust be trusted with too much of a good thing! :gaah: And yet with a readily available & proven reliable ECU Upgrade you can access all this extra power and still keep your engine's power output & reliability well within those this same engine puts out on other platforms!! ;)

I know that the 'Stage 1 & 2 Upgrades' that you lot get over there aren't quite the same as the 'fully customised' Upgrades we can get here in Oz, but after my V-Twin powered Spyder's ECU Upgrade, I've found that not only have I got a SHED LOAD of more tire-frying power on tap whenever I want to use it (altho I do try not to do the 'tire frying' thing all the time! :opps: ) but when I'm out there cruising and not wringing the throttle to extremes at every gear shift, I get far better fuel economy than most V-Twin Spyders AND quite a few of the 1330 powered Spyders too!! :ohyea:

Not saying that you'd necessarily get the same percentage or even the same sort of improvements from one of the potted upgrades available over there for your Spyder, but I'm pretty sure you'd get a bunch more power on tap; make your Spyder a whole lot more excitable when you twist the throttle hard; a lot more tractable & rideable when you're not so hard on the throttle; and very likely improve your 'cruising' fuel economy to boot! And there's no change in maintenance requirements OR any real risk to your engine/driveline, cos unless you choose to flog it hard ALL the time, or you go custom & extreme with the tune, then you're most likely not going to be anywhere near exceeding the already proven reliable power outputs of these engines when used in other platforms! ;)

You've already got the exhaust end of the upgrade done, why not get the intake end and the computers upgraded too?? :dontknow: . I really doubt you'll ever regret it! :thumbup:

[Peacekeeper6]

. And that's why you're ryding sweep------:joke::joke::joke:

The ONLY position to ride in besides lead.

I don't like having to worry about riders in front of me AND behind me. The problem with being tail gunner is that there's an increased chance of being separated from the group, and are likely to be left behind if the ride leader isn't considerate enough to wait, especially when riding in town where there are many traffic lights.

Which reminds me. When and where is our next ride ????

:D :)

[Peacekeeper6]

I just had a quick look back thru this thread again, and unless I missed it, it looks like you haven't had an ECU Upgrade done yet?? :shocked: Why on earth not?? :dontknow: Not just a 'Pedal Commander' or 'Power Commander' that enhances your throttle response without changing any if the tuning/power/performance parameters, but a proper ECU Upgrade that removes some of the (needlessly restrictive?? :p ) power constraints that've been imposed on our Spyders AND improves/enhances the throttle response too - altho if you want to add a Power Commander later just to make things even more responsive.... :rolleyes:

Go On, DO IT!! You'll be gob-smacked at how much 'nicer' your Spyder becomes to ride when you unleash a bit more of the power your motor was designed to produce, only for it be choked down & significantly restricted apparently because BRP's lawyers feel that responsible & capable riders simply can't trust be trusted with too much of a good thing! :gaah: And yet with a readily available & proven reliable ECU Upgrade you can access all this extra power and still keep your engine's power output & reliability well within those this same engine puts out on other platforms!! ;)

I know that the 'Stage 1 & 2 Upgrades' that you lot get over there aren't quite the same as the 'fully customised' Upgrades we can get here in Oz, but after my V-Twin powered Spyder's ECU Upgrade, I've found that not only have I got a SHED LOAD of more tire-frying power on tap whenever I want to use it (altho I do try not to do the 'tire frying' thing all the time! :opps: ) but when I'm out there cruising and not wringing the throttle to extremes at every gear shift, I get far better fuel economy than most V-Twin Spyders AND quite a few of the 1330 powered Spyders too!! :ohyea:

Not saying that you'd necessarily get the same percentage or even the same sort of improvements from one of the potted upgrades available over there for your Spyder, but I'm pretty sure you'd get a bunch more power on tap; make your Spyder a whole lot more excitable when you twist the throttle hard; a lot more tractable & rideable when you're not so hard on the throttle; and very likely improve your 'cruising' fuel economy to boot! And there's no change in maintenance requirements OR any real risk to your engine/driveline, cos unless you choose to flog it hard ALL the time, or you go custom & extreme with the tune, then you're most likely not going to be anywhere near exceeding the already proven reliable power outputs of these engines when used in other platforms! ;)

You've already got the exhaust end of the upgrade done, why not get the intake end and the computers upgraded too?? :dontknow: . I really doubt you'll ever regret it! :thumbup:

This is likely my next upgrade. I've been hearing good things about it, but need to find out which company is reputable and does quality work.

I'll probably send my ECU after this riding season is over so I won't miss any upcoming rides.

[Spyder Hawk]

Hey Peacekeeper6, I have a mod for you. It took me a while, but it makes my bike a little bit special. I was able to machine bar end blinkers using the stock parts and some aftermarket blinkers.

206413

[Peacekeeper6]

Hey Peacekeeper6, I have a mod for you. It took me a while, but it makes my bike a little bit special. I was able to machine bar end blinkers using the stock parts and some aftermarket blinkers.

206413

That's a cool, tasteful mod.

Too bad I already bought Lamonster's IPS bar ends to bling up my bike, LOL.

[Poppie65]

Tips - Prior to removing the seat, put a piece of cloth on top of the dreaded Black
Hole in the back to prevent accidentally dropping a nut or bolt into it and never
seeing it again.

Ha! Ain't that the truth! My buddy and I spent an hour searching for a screw that jumped out of my hand. He finally found it using his cockpit FOD searching skills that served him well in the USAF. It had ricocheted into a sneaky little crevice and was trying it's best to sabotage an otherwise very satisfying MOD day. We got it though, with dexterity and a magnetic retrieval tool.

[ReRose]

I put the Baha Ron Sway Bar on the wifes 2020 Spyder RTL and she rode it for 3 weeks before asking me when I was gonna find time to install it. Told her it had been on for 3 weeks and she did not notice anything. Did not go well for me.

[Peacekeeper6]

I put the Baha Ron Sway Bar on the wifes 2020 Spyder RTL and she rode it for 3 weeks before asking me when I was gonna find time to install it. Told her it had been on for 3 weeks and she did not notice anything. Did not go well for me.

I've heard that BRP upgraded their swaybar after 2020, and that installing the Baja Ron swaybar offers a negligible difference.

I've also heard of some who DID install it on their post-2020 Spyders and it improved their handling.

In either case, I just can't wait for the weather to warm up some so that I can "go for a putt" on my RTL, lol.