Stalling

[PaladinLV]

Looked at other posts, but none seem to fit my "problem"
RT 2014 with about 26K miles. Except for initial DESS problems, the Spyder has been flawless.
After leaving the house, the first light is @.2 miles away.
After stopping, while applying gas to continue, the engine stalls.
The next stop, also @.2 miles away does the same thing.
Once the engine has run for about 10-15 minutes (warmed-up), no more stalls.
Engine is NOT running rough, acceleration prior to stalls normal.
Just a bad tank of gas? Gas filter?
What do you think?

Thanks
AJ

[Joel The Biker]

That is an interesting problem for a 2014. Have you done anything different with your fuel lately? Filled up at a new location or been sitting for a long period of time? I have noticed that many new pumps now have diesel fuel at the same pump as unleaded. I am waiting to see how many people put diesel in by mistake. Not saying you did of course. As for your problem, it sounds like a fuel issue to me. Try filling up with a new tank of gas and see if it goes away. If not, then maybe a fuel filter or a slim chance the spark plugs need to be changed, but they should last 100k miles. And another possible problem could be a sticky clutch. When the bike is cold, the clutch is dry and sticky. As the clutch gets lubed up, it gets smoother. A sticky clutch can also be caused by using the incorrect oil. When you come to a stop with the sticky clutch, it doesnt release completely and the bike stalls.

[PMK]

If it were me, but I do not know your fuel details, I would try a few gallons of a high quality gasoline in high octane if you do not currently use that every time. Sounds a bit like a dirty fuel injector nozzle.

Obviously could be other issues, but rough running or stalling until slightly warmed up, and no engine warning lights or codes first begs for injector cleaning.

By 9am, there will be many replies saying to add a bottle of Sea Foam or a similar product. In this case, it certainly would be a good start.

The Spyder runs an electric fuel pump system at typical 60 psi operating pressure. In most cases, even a dirty filter will flow plenty of fuel. If you have not yet changed the filter, considering the miles and calendar time, that would be worth getting on your to do list.

I do believe though cleaning the fuel nozzles may end your stalling.

[trikermutha]

Maybe venting issue,gas cap?

[Little Blue]

:thumbup: Check (on/about) the Gas. ....My Tip. ....:thumbup:

[JayBros]

In winter riding, i.e., morning temp < 40F, I have to be very careful to slowly roll on the throttle for the first half mile or so because I have two stop/starts the same as AJ's. If I start the bike and then put on helmet and gloves there's no problem; it has done it since I bought it and I've never given it a thought. I've always used top tier 93 octane from a high volume source.

[trikermutha]

Just wondering if anyone has ever cleaned the throttle body on there Spyder? Not sure if it could also be related in this case?

[CopperSpyder]

I would say you are close enough to the 28,000 mile service time to maybe do that now. Change trans filer, plugs ect. and see if that fixes your problem.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I think BRP addressed this issue in a service bulletin shortly after introducing the 1330 engine …. sorry but I am unable to tell you how to access that bulletin …… good luck ………… Mike :ohyea:

[ARtraveler]

Do you know if they use a "winter gas" blend in the Las Vegas area? When I was in AK, they did between Nov and April. When the machine got woke up from the "winter sleep" those gas tanks of winter blend seemed to make the Spyder run a bit less than "usual." I never had stalling, but gas mileage was noticeable, and performance out of the gate was a bit less.

[PaladinLV]

Clutch sounds reasonable, but same oil type as day one! Although the weather is a bit colder, but it's been colder other years. Tnx for input

[PaladinLV]

My priority guess is the fuel. Injector? Don't think warming up engine would change a dirt injector - tnx

[PaladinLV]

That's what I'm thinking, will see how it goes.

[PaladinLV]

How does your possibilities clear up with a warmed up engine?

[PaladinLV]

Thanks for the tip. The SB dealt with stalling on restarting a vehicle and going from N to 1st. Going to 1st is no problem it will sit there all day. Maybe I got into bad foot habit. Will pay attention next time :)

[RICZ]

Stalling like that is indicative of a lean burn condition. Many of the above posts suggest that possibility. I see you have an exhaust system with little to none back pressure, that can be causing a lean burn. Try inserting a baffle, if one is available, and see what happens.
I had a lean condition on my last bike due to pipes with reduced back pressure and I had to readjust the Dobeck type tuner to provide a richer burn.

[Highwayman2013]

Could be bad gas or the fuel filter. Due for a fuel filter at 28,000.

[PaladinLV]

Since it has been flawless for 4 years, I have serious doubts about it being back pressure. As to being too lean, unless it can change overtime, the mix is actually setup to be a tad on the rich side. but tnx for the response and if it continues on the next tank will look at the mix!

[PaladinLV]

I initially thought of that! But a dirty filter is a dirty filter regardless of the engine being warm or cold. Unless, I'm I missing something

[spyder01]

I agree that your problem is being caused by a lean fuel mixture.When engine is cold fuel droplets condense on intake port walls causing a lean condition,this is normal.Computer will inject a little more fuel till engine is up to temp.It knows how much based on pre programmed values based on a new engines needs.Until the eng reaches a certain temp the computer runs in the so called open loop mode,after that it kicks into the closed loop mode.In closed loop the cat is working and the oxygen sensor is working and the computer can use all the sensors to determine the correct fuel mix needed.But when its cold most of those sensors are useless and it relies on the factory programmed values.Anywhere that extra oxygen can enter eng before the intake valves will cause a lean condition.Hoses would be a very real possibility.Also there are many gaskets upstream of the intake valves,but they will be very hard to check without proper tools and experience.There is a slight chance that the throttle blades could be dirty but that would usually cause a rough hunting idle speed when warm as well.Low fuel pressure or volume could not cause this without causing a major lack of power when warm.Highly oxygenated fuel is a slight possibility.First change brands and run premium,next try to find leaky vac hoses when cold,listen for hissing or broken or loose hoses.After that your going to dealer where he will need to check the coolant sensor for accuracy as well as intake air temp sensor.After that probably Mass Air Flow sensor.Idle Air Control solenoid or in your case probably the Throttle module.Also when a oxygen sensor is starting to fail they may give skewed readings which can upset the fuel mix.You cant set a lean fuel mix code until eng goes into closed loop so its possibile for some goofy things to happen without setting codes(which makes problem much harder to diag).Let us know what you find.

[PaladinLV]

First thanks to all!
Sorry for the delay, but haven't had the machine out until today.
During my report until today, I did the following.
Twice a week during the period I let the Spyder idle until fans came on more then they were off took about an hour. Temp was up about to the 2 o'clock position.
Today I got on it, started it up like I always do and took off.
The problem I had never occurred and everything was perfect.
The problem remains mystery since it's the same gas.
Possible dirt somewhere that got burnt out? Beats me!
Gremlin? Nah I got a bell! :roflblack:
But thanks to all for taking the time to respond! :bowdown:

AJ

[JayBros]

Glad it went away, AJ.