Fault Code P0118

[RowdyScamp]

It has been just over a week since I last rode my 2018 RT, and it had no apparent issues when I parked it. The forecast was mild for today so I planned to ride to work. When I started it, the "check engine" light lit up, and I heard the blower come on. Fault code came up as P0118.

Any suggestions on what I should check?

[splake0]

Engine coolant temperature sensor 1 circuit High

Cause. Disconnected sensor, circuit wire short to battery + or sensor resistance too High.

Action
Check for disconnected
engine temperature sensor. Measure resistance from connector: ECMA-A1 to CTS-1 (expected value: < 2 ohms). Measure resistance from connector: ECMA-J2 to CTS-2 (expected value: < 2 ohms). Measure CTS resistance value (expected value: 2280 to 2736 ohms at 19 to 21°C (66 to 70

[Bfromla]

Engine coolant temperature sensor 1 circuit High:thumbup: could also be disconnected :lecturef_smilie:

[RowdyScamp]

Thanks for the information.
Now I just need to figure out where the sensor is located to check it. My Spyder is still under warranty, but it's about a 40 mile trip to the nearest dealer.

[Bfromla]

Thanks for the information.
Now I just need to figure out where the sensor is located to check it. My Spyder is still under warranty, but it's about a 40 mile trip to the nearest dealer. think there are actually 2 sensors 1 for fluid temp close to water pump & one that also does ambient temp display on dash, in around the air box.:dontknow: might look at cheap cycle parts exploded view pages help save some panel removal. :2thumbs:

[RowdyScamp]

Just an update on my problem.

I took the left side covers off this evening after work, and found the coolant temperature sensor. Apparently, a rodent has gotten onto my engine and chewed wiring. There is not enough wire remaining on the connector to try and splice. So I need to find a replacement connector with pigtail, then I will need to loosen the wiring harness so that I can get to the wires to splice them.

Any clues as to where I can get a connector? I checked with one local auto parts store, but they said they can't get anything like that. I will check with the other parts stores in town tomorrow to see if I have better luck.

[Navydad]

A picture of the connector would help, but if you look closely most connectors will have a tiny tab that holds the pin or socket in place. I have removed many a pin from connectors and soldered or installed a new wire and then used the connector. There is a company online that sells just about any connector you would ever need. I use them when restoring old motorcycles. It will take me a bit, but I will look up their site and post it for you.

[Navydad]

http://www.cycleterminal.com/motorcycle-connectors.html

[RowdyScamp]

Trying to add pictures of the connector. A quarter is included for scale.
177630177631177632

[Navydad]

The wires and pins can be removed from those connectors, repaired, and replaced. You need to examine it closely, but there is a tab or protrusion that can be bent or pushed to release the pins. The metal pins themselves may have a tab that can be pressed back and allow them to come out. You can't break it much worse than it is now. In the third photo look down along the pins and see if you can find it there. If you can find it a paper clip or very thin tool of any type can be used to do the job. I have a set of tools made just for this purpose since I used to repair these types of connectors on the job. In a pinch the paper clip or similar object work just fine. If you are able to get it apart remember which side the wires were on. Not a good idea to get them crossed.

As a side note; lots of wiring on many vehicles has a soy based coating, not rubber, and mice find it very tasty. Soy wiring and a heated or warmer garage is mouse heaven.

[billybovine]

This looks like the right one. Boschs version of the amp connector. See picture. If it is. Then look on Ebay for the pigtail. That is if you or someone you know cannot make a new pigtail from the parts.

[Bfromla]

Just an update on my problem.

I took the left side covers off this evening after work, and found the coolant temperature sensor. Apparently, a rodent has gotten onto my engine and chewed wiring. There is not enough wire remaining on the connector to try and splice. So I need to find a replacement connector with pigtail, then I will need to loosen the wiring harness so that I can get to the wires to splice them.

Any clues as to where I can get a connector? I checked with one local auto parts store, but they said they can't get anything like that. I will check with the other parts stores in town tomorrow to see if I have better luck. :gaah::banghead: sorry to hear, now you also need check all wires in area. Part should be here
https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/

[RowdyScamp]

This looks like the right one. Boschs version of the amp connector. See picture. If it is. Then look on Ebay for the pigtail. That is if you or someone you know cannot make a new pigtail from the parts.

Thanks, that's what I found after some searching. I have given up on trying to obtain one locally. Two of the auto parts stores said that they couldn't get the connector, the third said it would probably be cheaper ordering on-line. Still looking at ways to disassemble what I have, and will decide from there.

[Navydad]

This looks like the right one. Boschs version of the amp connector. See picture. If it is. Then look on Ebay for the pigtail. That is if you or someone you know cannot make a new pigtail from the parts.

Do some research before buying as this is a female connector. Look at the metal contacts. They are made to accept the flat pins that are showing in your damaged connector which is the male plug. Doesn't do any good to buy a connector and have two female ends.

[billybovine]

Do some research before buying as this is a female connector. Look at the metal contacts. They are made to accept the flat pins that are showing in your damaged connector which is the male plug. Doesn't do any good to buy a connector and have two female ends.

I have never seen a sensor socket that is not male. Not saying they don't exist. I have never seen one. So the corresponding harness plug should be female. That would be normal.

[billybovine]

Thanks, that's what I found after some searching. I have given up on trying to obtain one locally. Two of the auto parts stores said that they couldn't get the connector, the third said it would probably be cheaper ordering on-line. Still looking at ways to disassemble what I have, and will decide from there.

Just buy all the parts to build a new one. Shipping will likely cost more than the parts. When I built my own trailer harness. I did not have the proper crimp tool for wire ends. I just used a needle nose pliers to crimp. Then soldered it so it would not come apart because of the bad crimp. Then crimped on the seal.

[Navydad]

The connector in the pics with the quarter is a male connector with the flat pins. I don't know if it came from the sensor or from the harness, but it has male pins. The one in the attachment photo has the female ends and is described as a female connector next to the price. It appears to be the same as the connector in his pics, but the metal terminals are not the same. Look before you buy.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The connector in the pics with the quarter is a male connector with the flat pins. I don't know if it came from the sensor or from the harness, but it has male pins. The one in the attachment photo has the female ends and is described as a female connector next to the price. It appears to be the same as the connector in his pics, but the metal terminals are not the same. Look before you buy.
Bosch appears to have male and female terms reversed. Look at their connectors here: https://www.automotive-connectors.com/bosch-1-928-404-072-2-way-female-compact-connector-1-1.html.

RowdyScamp, make sure you get the right connector. The one in your pic is, as Billy shows, a Bosch compact 1.1 series. Most of the connectors of that type on the Spyder are Amp Superseal 1.5. They won't fit together. The Bosch has horizontal flat terminals and Amp are vertical flat terminals. Most of the connectors I've seen on eBay are AMP Superseal style. You may want to just buy the parts and pieces to assemble your own connector from the website above, but it's in Germany.

From what I find doing a Google and eBay search I've concluded your best bet is to solder new wire to what is sticking out of the plug. After splicing and soldering cover them with shrink tubing for protection and insulation.

[Bfromla]

Thanks, that's what I found after some searching. I have given up on trying to obtain one locally. Two of the auto parts stores said that they couldn't get the connector, the third said it would probably be cheaper ordering on-line. Still looking at ways to disassemble what I have, and will decide from there.

Sorry didnt think of this before but how far are you from SpyderPops in Percy AR? Great shop to visit & his team has skills to fix you up properly, proably has the connector too.:firstplace::yes::yes:

[RowdyScamp]

My spyder is up and running again. On Saturday I did a visual inspection, spliced wires in, and wrapped new friction tape on the harness. The connector arrived in the mail today, and it was a simple matter to get it installed. The hardest part was getting my hand in the space to plug it in. Forecast showing daytime temperatures in the 50s and 60s coming up, so it could be a good time to ride.

For what it's worth, the old connector is female, and the one shown in post #11 is an exact replacement.



In reply to Bfromla's last post - from here to Pearcy is between 2 and 3 hours, depending on route and traffic. Not sure if that fault code would have put it in limp mode, but I wouldn't want to take that chance.

[splake0]

Glad to see you’ Up and running again