Did You Or Will You Switch To FULL Synthetic Oil Upon 1st Oil Change?

[Aufgeblassen47]

Just curious! I certainly will. In addition, I think I will be able to safely increase change interval to 9,000 miles doing thusly. :mrgreen:

[djdilliodon]

Definitely going synthetic, just waiting to hit 3k miles and I’m doing it. Going to use amsoil

[KC61]

I don't know why you wouldn't switch to full synthetic after a reasonable break in period, I certainly will.

[old Timer]

Don't even understand the question, probably comes with Synthetic from the factory. If not, you can switch to Synthetic any time you want, I always do it at my first oil change at between 50 and 100 miles and at least one quick full throttle blast to the 80-90 MPH range.

[Aufgeblassen47]

Don't even understand the question, probably comes with Synthetic from the factory. If not, you can switch to Synthetic any time you want, I always do it at my first oil change at between 50 and 100 miles and at least one quick full throttle blast to the 80-90 MPH range.

Only semi-synthetic from factory.

[KC61]

And here we go, the old synthetic vs dino argument.

[Aufgeblassen47]

And here we go, the old synthetic vs dino argument.

For cry eye! It was just a question! Sounds like you must be skeptical about the benefits of synthetic.

[LeftCoast]

Ok throttle back folks. This is one of those everyone has an opinion topics. If you have one go ahead but leave comments and thoughts about someone else’s opinion out of it please.

Here’s my opinion, I had synthetic in when I took it in for a change that the prior owner had put in. I forgot to tell the shop to put in Amsoil again so the BRP recommendation went in this time. I think the bike clunks more on downshifts now than before. This winter Amsoil will go back in.

[LeftCoast]

For cry eye! It was just a question! Sounds like you must be skeptical about the benefits of synthetic.


That IS NOT what he said. He merely referenced a topic here that’s been debated ad nauseum.

[JayBros]

Pg 91, Maintenance Schedule, of the operator's guide says change the engine oil and oil filter once a year or every 6,000 miles, whichever comes first. Is there a change that stretches it to 9,000 miles?

[Bike-O-Din]

I would go with the 6000 miles. You may be able to stretch it, but.... Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.;)

[ARtraveler]

The 1330 manual says 9000 or once a year. May be different for a Ryker...which I don't have a manual for.

[Aufgeblassen47]

Pg 91, Maintenance Schedule, of the operator's guide says change the engine oil and oil filter once a year or every 6,000 miles, whichever comes first. Is there a change that stretches it to 9,000 miles?

No rocket science - better oil means better mileage.

[Highwayman2013]

It shouldn't be too hard on oil. The engine doesn't share with the transmission. I would still have the oil analyzed to see how it's holding up at the factory interval. Amsoil is a quality oil that holds up well.

[Mikey]

:clap::popcorn: Oil and tires. Oil and tires!!! Better than the best mouse trap made!:roflblack:

[Aufgeblassen47]

:clap::popcorn: Oil and tires. Oil and tires!!! Better than the best mouse trap made!:roflblack:

My philosophy: tires are like wine & women - the cheaper the better! :)

I've always had the best of luck with the dirt cheapest tires I can find. I once bought a used Ford Escort that had $60 Yokohama tires on it. I experienced tread separation in 3 of the 4 tires! There were "tire wars" going on at the time, and I replaced them with $5 tires (the mounting & balancing cost more than the tires). Didn't have a bit of problems with them! :yes:

[KC61]

Yep, synthetic's are great but you also need an extended interval filter to match the oil. So there's that. And I'm not just making this stuff up, came direct from a Mobil 1 Tech.

[Aufgeblassen47]

Yep, synthetic's are great but you also need an extended interval filter to match the oil. So there's that. And I'm not just making this stuff up, came direct from a Mobil 1 Tech.

When I took my oil to 130,000 miles with synthetic, when normal (dino oil) interval was 20,000 miles with my Volvo big rig truck, I changed the three oil filters every 30,000 miles and it took a gallon of top off oil to replace oil that was in the filters.

If you only double your interval, chances are your filter will be fine (unless you do mostly stop & go city driving and/or lots of short trips).

Keep in mind that Mobil sells a "once a year" oil change oil. No mention of extra filter change or special filter.

[KC61]

Keep in mind that Mobil sells a "once a year" oil change oil. No mention of extra filter change or special filter.

You would be wrong about that. There is an Extended Interval Filter to match their 20k mile oil. Check your facts

Mobil 1 Annual Protection ultimate full synthetic motor oils feature advanced lubricant technology that provides proven protection for 20,000 miles or one full year between oil changes, whichever comes first – guaranteed.†

We recommend using a Mobil 1™ Extended Performance oil filters along with the Mobil 1 Annual Protection synthetic oils. Though not required, these filters meet the requirements of the Mobil 1 Annual Protection limited warranty and are perfect companion products for longer-lasting protection.

https://mobiloil.com/en/oil-filters/performance-oil-filters

[mrNewt]

Of course they would recommend their filters... :).
Those filters are not as special as they like to make them... but each to its own.

Filters are like oils... everyone has their own religious beliefs :).

[BajaRon]

Of course they would recommend their filters... :).
Those filters are not as special as they like to make them... but each to its own.

Filters are like oils... everyone has their own religious beliefs :).

Actually, there is a lot of good information out there based on actual testing. Which products you choose does not have to be based on faith, myth, or intuition.

[Gwolf]

I guess everybody has their own opinions about oil changes, and that is fine. I see no reason not to use full synthetic and change the oil every 5,000 miles like I always have. The used oil is taken in for recycling. The filters are changed every time. It does not take that long and spending $40 or $50 to change the oil in a machine you paid $20 grand for is not a big deal. I ran two of the old air cooled Harley 1200 Sportster engines over 150.000 miles before rebuilding them, with the same oil change schedules. Do it like the book or do it how ever you want. Mine gonna run full synthetic and get changed every 5.000 miles.

[BajaRon]

I guess everybody has their own opinions about oil changes, and that is fine. I see no reason not to use full synthetic and change the oil every 5,000 miles like I always have. The used oil is taken in for recycling. The filters are changed every time. It does not take that long and spending $40 or $50 to change the oil in a machine you paid $20 grand for is not a big deal. I ran two of the old air cooled Harley 1200 Sportster engines over 150.000 miles before rebuilding them, with the same oil change schedules. Do it like the book or do it how ever you want. Mine gonna run full synthetic and get changed every 5.000 miles.

I plan to change out all the fluids on my Ryker to a true, fully synthetic alternative. I did the same on my Spyder back when. Harley's typically run at very low RPM, which is a bit easier on the oil than a higher RPM motor.

I don't want to say that the way I do it is necessary. Because it obviously is not. But I like running longer service intervals (especially on long trips). I get my oil tested so I know if I am going too far or not. So far, I have never worn a fully synthetic oil out before servicing. I feel it's somewhat like getting high mileage tires. Why throw away a tire at 40k if it's got another 20k left just because that's what I did with the OEM tires? Granted, with tires it's easy to see when they need to be changed. Without analyzing your oil, it's pretty much impossible to know how it is performing. You can't tell by looking at it like you can with tires.

I think the real debate centers on 'Need' rather than whether or not a full synthetic is a superior lubricant.

I try not to preach to people, other than it's not all smoke and mirrors. There is hard data out there if someone is interested.

If you like what you are doing and it works. It's all good!

[Aufgeblassen47]

Of course they would recommend their filters... :).
Those filters are not as special as they like to make them... but each to its own.

Filters are like oils... everyone has their own religious beliefs :).

Indeed. I've NEVER had low oil pressure due to a clogging filter in all the years I've run my filters to twice the recommended interval. My '98 Jetta TDI diesel went to 20,000 mile intervals instead of recommended 10,000, and that was even before ultra low sulfur diesel fuel.

Fuels are so clean these days, and emissions are so low, that very few contaminants get in the oil.

[Gwolf]

Just about all OEM recommendations have a generous safety factor built in. You can exceed the recommendations and usually get away with it, but after you go past the manufacturer recommendation you are working with out a net.

[Aufgeblassen47]

Just about all OEM recommendations have a generous safety factor built in. You can exceed the recommendations and usually get away with it, but after you go past the manufacturer recommendation you are working with out a net.

ONLY if you are still within the warranty period.

[BajaRon]

Just about all OEM recommendations have a generous safety factor built in. You can exceed the recommendations and usually get away with it, but after you go past the manufacturer recommendation you are working with out a net.

I wonder about this. Especially with the 1330 motors. Sometimes the bean counters override the engineers.

The service interval on the 1330 is 9,300 miles. This, using the same motor oil that is recommended for the 998 models. From a fair amount of testing, we found that the BRP blended oil began to shear quite rapidly from 4,500 miles to 5,000 miles. It is also interesting that the service interval on the 998 is 4,500 miles. A prudent mileage given the testing figures.

From the independent oil analysis I've seen, the blended BRP oil service life runs about the same in the 1330 as it did in the 998. Which is not surprising. The results I've seen show the BRP blended oil shearing down to about a 20w oil between 5,000 & 5,500 miles. It does not appear to lose any more viscosity once it reaches the 20w point. But that means you're running a 20w, not a 40w as recommended, for about 4,000 miles with the recommended service interval. Is the 1330 fine with a 20w oil? If so, why recommend a 40w spec.?

There was a lot of pressure on BRP to extend the service interval with the new design. This extended service interval is prominently touted in the Spyder sales information.

Just interesting bits of information that really have no definitive answer that I know of to date.

[r1100rider]

I don't know why you wouldn't switch to full synthetic after a reasonable break in period, I certainly will.this seams like the best plan my experience has been that syn oil is almost to good and won't let enough wear for break in of rings ,the ryker not sharing oil with a tranny and wet clutch will be easier on oil but of course the length of miles per start is what really determines the break down of oil , not for a real question that I was ask when I was talking up amsoil. Show me a picture of an amsoil refinery I don't know weather they do or don't but the point is that many oils are just a label

[Highwayman2013]

this seams like the best plan my experience has been that syn oil is almost to good and won't let enough wear for break in of rings ,the ryker not sharing oil with a tranny and wet clutch will be easier on oil but of course the length of miles per start is what really determines the break down of oil , not for a real question that I was ask when I was talking up amsoil. Show me a picture of an amsoil refinery I don't know weather they do or don't but the point is that many oils are just a label

I don't know about just a label. I can tell you from real world riding and oil analysis that the BRP blend oil loses viscosity pretty fast in the 998. Mobil 1 10W40 was at 8,600 when I had it analyzed and showed loss of viscosity. The results with Amsoil at 9,666 miles showed no loss of viscosity and a recommendation to try running the oil to 12,000 miles on the next change. To be honest I was quite surprised the Amsoil did much better than the Mobil 1. 2016 F3L using Blackstone labs. Maybe I'll try the Spectro next.

[BajaRon]

this seams like the best plan my experience has been that syn oil is almost to good and won't let enough wear for break in of rings ,the ryker not sharing oil with a tranny and wet clutch will be easier on oil but of course the length of miles per start is what really determines the break down of oil , not for a real question that I was ask when I was talking up amsoil. Show me a picture of an amsoil refinery I don't know weather they do or don't but the point is that many oils are just a label

You are right. There is no Amsoil refinery. Nor is there a Ford, Chevy Toyota or BRP refinery. Refineries are like steel mills. They produce the basic products that customers ask for. From cheap steel to very high quality, expensive products. Sometimes all you need is cheap steel to get the job done. The problem comes when you use cheap steel when a higher quality is needed.

Refineries make the base product. Individual suppliers like Castrol, Penzoil, Amsoil, etc., using the various quality and grades of the base oil they choose, make alterations to get the final product. Just like Chevy may take a plate of steel and make a fender out of it. And another company will take that same plate of steel and make something completely different with it.

[Sarge]

I've been using AMSOIL for 20 years now. 20k interval in my cars and trucks. 10k or once per year in everything else, bikes, trikes, lawn, garden and tractor equipment. Heat is the biggest determent of oil. Oils main job is to remove heat from parts. That's why you should use a full synthetic oil on any air cooled engine. Fact is, jet engines will not work (for long) with dino oil. All jet and turbine engines require full synthetic oils.

[acdcking12]

I looked up Amsoil for these Spyders. Am I correct when I see a list price of $14 bucks a quart and we need 5 quarts?

Also where are you guys buying your Oil filters? And do I need an air filter as well?

[BajaRon]

I looked up Amsoil for these Spyders. Am I correct when I see a list price of $14 bucks a quart and we need 5 quarts?

Also where are you guys buying your Oil filters? And do I need an air filter as well?

I carry Amsoil and filter kits. I sell Amsoil at my actual dealer price. I don't make anything on the oil. So total cost varies by where you live and how much you get. But an average is $13.00 per quart delivered for 5 quarts and $11.00 per quart for 1 case (12 quarts). I do make money on the filter kits. But I try to price them fairly.

A typical price for a full service oil and filter set is less than what you'll pay for a BRP package deal if you purchase 2 sets at a time. I figure, if you're going to use them anyway. Why not save the money? Amsoil has proven, over and over, in independent analysis, to be far superior to anything BRP offers.

You can see these items here on my Banner Ad Page. Not the only way to go, of course. But these are the products I use and have had tested. So I can recommend them with confidence.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?23928-New-sponsor-here-for-Filters-amp-Helmets

[Pantera]

I may be switching to a 10w40 full synthetic next season as I already have numerous quarts on hand that I had purchased for my Honda Shadow and my Suzuki Dr650 before I sold them

[Deanna777]

Just curious! I certainly will. In addition, I think I will be able to safely increase change interval to 9,000 miles doing thusly. :mrgreen:

I switched to full synthetic oil after my first oil change. I have been using the full synthetic oil ever since. I am using Valvoline 4T 10w -40 Full Synthetic. I have not had any problems.

Deanna

[old Timer]

IMHO based on way too many years experience and no offence intended, dumb question, what possible reason would you not consider using full Synthetic. I can not think of any reason.

[Steve W.]

From the independent oil analysis I've seen, the blended BRP oil service life runs about the same in the 1330 as it did in the 998. Which is not surprising. The results I've seen show the BRP blended oil shearing down to about a 20w oil between 5,000 & 5,500 miles. It does not appear to lose any more viscosity once it reaches the 20w point. But that means you're running a 20w, not a 40w as recommended, for about 4,000 miles with the recommended service interval. Is the 1330 fine with a 20w oil? If so, why recommend a 40w spec.?

I have a habit of reading between the lines, sort of like thinking "outside the box".

Therefore: Is BRP recommending a 40w oil because it needs a 40w oil, or could it possibly be that the engine really only needs a 20w oil, and BRP knows that their 40w breaks down to 20w, so that is what they recommend?

Expiring minds want to know.

.

[SportsterDoc]

Yes, pure synthetic, definitely.
No, on 9000 mile intervals.
I am going 6000 mile intervals on my Triumph Street Twin with pure synthetic, but at the same speed it's cruising about 3000 RPMs less than the Ryker.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?137194-Maintenance-Schedule

Ryker oil, even pure synthetic, was dirty enough at 5000 miles.

Just my two cents

[ziggy]

Motul was recommended to me for my Ducati, so that's what I've used. It's a synthetic with great reviews on youtube. When it's time, I'll use it.:2thumbs:

[Construction tech]

I m not switching to full synthetic. Hapy with the BRP synthetic blend. Change the oil once a year every 6000k.

[EdMat]

There is always a debate on which oil is better, what viscosity is better, full or semi synthetic, etc. How many Spyders will get ridden enuff miles for any of that to come into play anyway. My bet would be ANY good oil, that meets the minimum specs, will carry the engine well in excess of 100,000 miles following the recommended change cycle.

[Little Blue]

I may be switching to a 10w40 full synthetic next season as I already have numerous quarts on hand that I had purchased for my Honda Shadow and my Suzuki Dr650
before I sold them

All very helpful information. Enjoy your reading, but this post was started ......07/21/2019. .....:coffee:

[ziggy]

These are our toys....and this is how we play . :ohyea:

[SportsterDoc]

Motul was recommended to me for my Ducati, so that's what I've used. It's a synthetic with great reviews on youtube. When it's time, I'll use it.:2thumbs:

Motoul 7100 is excellent oil. My Moto Guzzi 7II stipulated 10W60 and Motoul 7100 served very well, riding in temperatures up to 116 F (47C).
It had a separate trans. The engine only held 2 liters.

193499

[SportsterDoc]

I m not switching to full synthetic. Hapy with the BRP synthetic blend. Change the oil once a year every 6000k.

Whether you purchase Amsoil from Ron for $11 a quart, Castrol from O'Reillys for $10 a quart ($10.99 not on sale?) or any other major brand that you prefer, pure synthetic is little, if any, difference in price over synthetic blend.
Also, 10W-40 is only rated up to 104F
In the southwest USA, using 10W-50 is important for summer ambient. It performed well in my 2014 Honda CB1100, 2020 Ryker and now my 2022 Triumph.

I well remember Harley-Davidson dismissing pure synthetic, citing "bearing skate" as a concern...because H-D did not yet have their private label available.
If it is so slippery that a bearing won't turn, then how could a bearing develop flat spots?!? Just being sarcastic towards H-D, especially since they discontinued Sportster models that I liked.

May not be an issue for Spyders, but the Ryker, with CVT trans, is cruising at 6,000 to 7,000 RPMs.

[pidjones]

First change went to my standard Rotella blue jug.

[KnurledNut]

While I appreciate all the petroleum engineers on this site, I am keep with the MFG recommendations for my Ryker.

[DickB]

While I appreciate all the petroleum engineers on this site, I am keep with the MFG recommendations for my Ryker.193503

[Construction tech]

Whether you purchase Amsoil from Ron for $11 a quart, Castrol from O'Reillys for $10 a quart ($10.99 not on sale?) or any other major brand that you prefer, pure synthetic is little, if any, difference in price over synthetic blend.
Also, 10W-40 is only rated up to 104F
In the southwest USA, using 10W-50 is important for summer ambient. It performed well in my 2014 Honda CB1100, 2020 Ryker and now my 2022 Triumph.

I well remember Harley-Davidson dismissing pure synthetic, citing "bearing skate" as a concern...because H-D did not yet have their private label available.
If it is so slippery that a bearing won't turn, then how could a bearing develop flat spots?!? Just being sarcastic towards H-D, especially since they discontinued Sportster models that I liked.

May not be an issue for Spyders, but the Ryker, with CVT trans, is cruising at 6,000 to 7,000 RPMs.

I appreciate the comment but i dont buy oil by the quart… i buy the kit that BRP sells with filters and o-rings and i get a good discount since i m military in Canada where our climate is a little different than Nevada… this is what the BRP reccommends and happy with it��*♂️

[Mikey]

It still amazes me how tires and oil can get everyone twisted up in a ball like it dose, no matter how old the tread is!!:popcorn:

[RiderDuke]

It still amazes me how tires and oil can get everyone twisted up in a ball like it dose, no matter how old the tread is!!:popcorn:

I'm new here and it's nice to see Spyder Forum is just like every other MC Forum...:agree::popcorn:

[Tslepebull]

I switched to synthetic but not at the first oil change. My dealer did the first oil change at the 3K inspection (presumably with BRP blend). I conducted the second oil change at 8.3K with Mobil Delvac 5/40 synthetic diesel oil https://www.mobil.com/en-us/commercial-vehicle-lube/pds/gl-xx-mobil-delvac-1-5w40 as it met the SL, SJ & SN standards. I will change again at 11.5K with a 5/40 full synthetic and again at 15K to get on an easy 5K interval. The 5k interval just makes the math easier. For the record I am also using synthetic gear oil (of the proper viscosity) in the gear box and final drive

[troop]

I'll reply to this rekindled thread. Change to a full synthetic at your first oil change. It's more than ready for full syn at that point.