Rear Tire Options

[BajaRon]

It's time to change the rear tire. 13k+ is about average. I wish I could scoot some of the nearly new side tread over into the nearly gone center tread area.

I did a thread search on other tires tried by Spyder Riders here, but there is very little follow-up as to how they are actually working.

Lamont has the Kumho Ecsta AST (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Ecsta+AST&partnum=25HR5EAST&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=5), a nice looking tire for a great price and he likes it fine.

What I am looking for is a good wet weather tire. Unfortanately, the better wet tires are not available in our size 225/50/15. The choices are limited.

Here are some other reasonably priced options I've found. Some are better than others in the wet but none are outstanding. I think just about any tire will do the Spyder well in dry with the huge footprint we have.

The manufacturer's write ups all say these tires work well in wet conditions. But the road test reviews I've been looking at do not necessarily paint the same picture. All got good to great reviews on dry pavement so that is not an issue.

Yokohama AVS ES100 (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=AVS+ES100&partnum=25VR5ES100&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=3) - Yokohama AVID T4 (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=AVID+T4&partnum=25TR5T4&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=6) - Nexen tires N2000 (http://www.wheelsnext.com/tires/nexen-n2000.html) - Nitto NT 450 (http://superbuytires.com/tires/model/Nitto/NT+450/) - Proxes 4 (https://www.tiresavings.com/tireShop.php?action=findMan2&manufacturer=Toyo&tirename=Proxes+4&season=Regular) - Proxes T1-R (https://www.tiresavings.com/tireShop.php?action=findMan2&manufacturer=Toyo&tirename=Proxes+T1-R&season=Regular) - Maxxis MA-Z4S Victra (http://www.maxxis.com/AutomobileLight-Truck/High-Performance/MA-Z4S-Victra.aspx) - Sumitomo HTR 200 (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Sumitomo&tireModel=HTR+200&partnum=25HR5HTR200&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=4). There are others but they get pretty spendy.

Right now I am leaning towards the Toyo Proxes T1R. Mostly because I like the tread pattern and the wet reviews are not as bad as some others. Anyone tried this one yet?

[chris56]

i also have to change the next weeks ..
didn`t find out if this one are drive-able in the rain - and we do have a lot of rain here in austria.. but they look wonderful
so keep me informed what you decided..
chris
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12045

[BajaRon]

i also have to change the next weeks ..
didn`t find out if this one are drive-able in the rain - and we do have a lot of rain here in austria.. but they look wonderful
so keep me informed what you decided..
chris
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12045

Yes, I saw this post about the Yokohama ADVAN A048 (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=ADVAN+A048&partnum=25VR5048M&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=14) on a Spyder. Great looking tire but I don't think it will work for me. Here is what the manufacturer states about this tire.

Caution: ADVAN A048 tires are not recommended for high-speed driving on extremely wet roads/tracks with standing water where there is the risk of hydroplaning. Drivers should drive cautiously at reduced speeds in these conditions.

I am not expecting to find a tire that will never hydroplane under any conditions. I realize that I need to use some caution no matter what tire I get. Still, some tires work much better in wet than others and that is where I'm trying to go.

I've already experienced hydroplaning with my Spyder in conditions that frankly surprised me. BRP must be aware of this tendency for the rear tire to let go in wet conditions as I beleive they have redesigned it with more water relief groves.

[bjt]

Both dltang and I have the same Kumho tire the lamonster has and we have not had any hydroplaning issues in close to 10,000 miles. On our way to meet you guys in Oklahoma, we went through a torrential downpour in Indiana (at 70 MPH on the expressway and 25 MPH on city streets) and the Kumhos worked fine.

[BajaRon]

Both dltang and I have the same Kumho tire the lamonster has and we have not had any hydroplaning issues in close to 10,000 miles. On our way to meet you guys in Oklahoma, we went through a torrential downpour in Indiana (at 70 MPH on the expressway and 25 MPH on city streets) and the Kumhos worked fine.

I'm always trying to find something better than what Lamont has. Most of the time it is a futile waste of time. Still, I enjoy the challange. Even if it's not better I can always pretend that it is.

Lamont expects this of me :D

[Firefly]

What's wrong with the OEM recommended tire?

[BajaRon]

What's wrong with the OEM recommended tire?

Price is the biggest issue. The tire Lamont is running is a little more than 1/3 the cost of the OEM tire. Other than that I'd say the OEM tire is fine. But if you can get as good (or maybe better) for 1/2 or even 2/3 the price why not experiment?

[Firefly]

Price is the biggest issue. The tire Lamont is running is a little more than 1/3 the cost of the OEM tire. Other than that I'd say the OEM tire is fine. But if you can get as good (or maybe better) for 1/2 or even 2/3 the price why not experiment?

$140 every 10,000 miles or so doesn't seem too bad to me - it's the install that will kill your wallet!

[BajaRon]

$140 every 10,000 miles or so doesn't seem too bad to me - it's the install that will kill your wallet!

I think it's $155 plus shipping for the OEM tire, but I have not checked for sure. Install costs us $5. I guess not everyone can get it done for that price.

And if a person can save $70 or more to spend on something else that appeals to me.

But to each his own. I get a kick out of finding better stuff for less money. Doesn't always work out that way but more often than not it does if you do your homework.

[Firefly]

I think it's $155 plus shipping for the OEM tire, but I have not checked for sure. Install costs us $5. I guess not everyone can get it done for that price.

And if a person can save $70 or more to spend on something else that appeals to me.

But to each his own. I get a kick out of finding better stuff for less money. Doesn't always work out that way but more often than not it does if you do your homework.

My dealer charged $204.00 for the install. I will do the next one myself. Not sure how much rear bearings cost (which I would replace at every tire change), but I'm pretty sure they are not $204.00. I didn't feel like messing with the belt tension and alignment - so I went to the dealer for the change.

I paid $140 for a tire from my dealer. I got another from Robs for $150 delivered.

[bjt]

I'm always trying to find something better than what Lamont has. Most of the time it is a futile waste of time. Still, I enjoy the challange. Even if it's not better I can always pretend that it is.

Lamont expects this of me :D

:D :thumbup:

[chris56]

i think i`m the hydroplane-spyder-tester .. most of my last kms where maid in rain and storm .. (austria is "under" water..)
so my idea of spydering in the rain is ..always have a passenger or fill up
your givi`s with stones? or so ..because the backwheel always looses the grip.. ( wrong tire?) on the front -it sometimes begin to "swim" but if you get used to it - not dangerous..
but in comarison to my bike (bmw) ..i drive faster - feel more secure..
so i hope to find the right tires..
chris

[SethO]

I have that kumdo on right now and it is great, did not hydroplane it the wet and I ran it hard, I had a hankook on before and it was down to the rainlines and it DID hydro out on me on a 45mph posted that I was into at 85, closest I have been to eating sh(t. the bf g force I had was great but I had it at 50psi so it did not last long, For the price on tirerack.com you can not beat the kumdo.

I need a new set of fronts and was wondering want people have replaced them with?

[bone crusher]

With the Kumho,

On tirerack, they say that wet traction is not that good...although dry pavement looks great (A,A rating for temp and traction).

The overall rating is in the 6s..I didn't see other options there so there's nothing really to compare it to.

How would the stock tire compare to the Kumho?

I'm not too worried about dry road traction as this should be fine for any higher speed rated tire...the issue for me would be wet/damp/slick conditions...

I know many here know a ton more than me about tires, but is this a viable option?

http://www.vulcantire.com/cgi-bin/tiresearch.cgi?stock=804&f=ze912_t.htm&refad=Froogle804

[bjt]

I don't know about that Falken tire. At the very least, it would look a little funny on the back of the Spyder as it doesn't have a symmetrical tread design. I don't really know if not having a symmetrical tread pattern would affect the handling at all, probably not with this tire as its close to symmetrical. Not radically different like http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Parada%20Spec-2 or this http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Ecsta%20XS.

[Lamonster]

I have a little over 10K on my Kumho tire now and it looks a lot better than my OEM tire did at 10K. My reasoning for going with this tire was not price all though it is a great price, I wanted a good rain tire that was going to give me more than 13K like the stock "China" tire. If I'm going to buy a China tire I want to pay China prices. ;)

The rain rating was "Excellent" on this tire and the only issue I had was on the trip out to Hollywood doing 70mph+ in heavy rain and trucker ruts towing a loaded trailer. I got a little sideways but even then I was still under control. If I get at least 13K out of this tire I'l be replacing it again with the same tire.

You keep looking Ron, that's what you do. :D

[COOLMACHINE]

Both dltang and I have the same Kumho tire the lamonster has and we have not had any hydroplaning issues in close to 10,000 miles. On our way to meet you guys in Oklahoma, we went through a torrential downpour in Indiana (at 70 MPH on the expressway and 25 MPH on city streets) and the Kumhos worked fine.

Please tell me, how much tread left on that tire after 10 grand?

[Lamonster]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=3817

[bjt]

I'll tell you and show you. :D Here are two pics I just took of the Kumho tire tread with about 11,000 miles on them now. I don't have a tread depth gauge but it looks like I have about ¹⁄₈" of rubber left before I hit the wear bar. I have ran this tire at 40 - 50 psi ever since I put it on.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w134/briantangen/Spyder%20Tech%20pics/Kumhotiresat11000miles-1.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w134/briantangen/Spyder%20Tech%20pics/Kumhotiresat11000miles-2.jpg

[Firefly]

I was hard-pressed to get 8,000 out of my first rear tire. Can't imagine getting over 10K. I believe almost all tires are made in China or Korea right now (including the Kumho). Gotta love that name though. :roflblack:

I don't want to mess with guessing on pressures as many have had to do with non-OEM tires - so I'll be running OEM tires unless someone comes out with another tire specifically made for the Spyder. As many have found - changes in tire pressure make quite a difference on the Spyder.

Let us know what you find. Hopefully the Kenda that is on the Spyder will be available from non-BRP places in the future as I'm sure it would be close to 1/2 the price.

[bjt]

Not sure what kinda miles lamonster has on his Kumho or what psi he runs at but it looks like its wearing very similar to ours. The stock Kenda I had on was very close to the wear bars by 10,000 miles, especially in the center of the tread. I probably could have gotten a lot longer life out of the Kenda if I would have ridden it at 20 or 22 psi for a while to even out the treadwear but I don't like the feel of the ride (sidewall roll) with the lower psi. Thats why I run my Kumho up towards the max recommended pressure.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w134/briantangen/Spyder%20Tech%20pics/Kendatiresat10000miles-1.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w134/briantangen/Spyder%20Tech%20pics/Kendatiresat10000miles-2.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w134/briantangen/Spyder%20Tech%20pics/Kendatiresat10000miles-3.jpg

[Firefly]

Yup - center wears sooner. The center of my Kenda was bald at 8,000 miles. Running the pressure a bit lower on this new one.

[Lamonster]

As far as guessing air pressure is concerned I found that the recommend air pressure on the oem tires are a little low. I run 20psi in the front and 30psi in the rear.

On the Kumho tire I run anywhere from 32psi to 40psi and it really doesn't seem to make much of a difference.

With over 35,000 miles on my tires it's more about not having to change a tire in the middle of a trip or changing it before it really needs it because I don't want to change in the middle of a trip. I'll be heading to Sturgis soon and I'll be running this tire and I'm pretty sure I'll make it there and back without needing a new tire. If this was the oem I would be changing it out when I had a good 3K left on it.

[Lamonster]

Not sure what kinda miles lamonster has on his Kumho or what psi he runs at but it looks like its wearing very similar to ours.
10K+
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=117757&postcount=16

[Questions]

(including the Kumho). Gotta love that name though. :roflblack:

Firefly that is hillarious:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

[BajaRon]

I don't know about that Falken tire. At the very least, it would look a little funny on the back of the Spyder as it doesn't have a symmetrical tread design. I don't really know if not having a symmetrical tread pattern would affect the handling at all, probably not with this tire as its close to symmetrical. Not radically different like http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Parada%20Spec-2 or this http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Ecsta%20XS.

Researching this, I have found directional tread design works better in wet conditions (shedding water) than symmetrical tread. The negatives of a directional tread are a small reduction in dry traction, more noise and sometimes, uneven tread wear (usually in the middle of the tire).

It is obvious that BRP wanted to provide the best wet traction (anti-hydroplaning) tire they could. And for good reason. There just isn't much weight on the rear to keep the tire on the pavement in wet conditions.

I have noticed that I hydroplane sooner than Lamont does when he is pulling the trailer. Lamont is a little heavier than I am but I think it is the tongue weight of his trailer that makes the difference. This is when we were both running the stock OEM tire.

For example, I got sideways on a curve in the rain at the same speed Lamont was traveling. I had to get off the gas while Lamont continued on, unaffected.

The OEM tire does a reasonably good job of keeping the rear tire on the pavement in wet weather. But there are alternatives out there that cost less and may give us better service.

The tire Lamont is running is one good example. I don't think tire pressures are all that critical on something as light as the Spyder.

The car tire equivalents I have been looking at have load ratings close to 1400 lbs. I have not put a scale under the rear tire but I would guess it might be in the neighborhood of 300 lbs (depending somewhat on the weight of the rider). Lamnt's car tire would be carrying about 20% of it's rated load capacity. Even adding a trailer would only get loading to 25~30% of capacity.

The OEM tire construction is quite a bit different than a car tire. Load rating is just under 700 lbs as compared to the 1300+ of the same size car tire. This probably has a lot to do with the center wearing quickly on the OEM tire and more even tire wear on the car version.

A very light duty, wide tire (like our OEM) will tend to bulge in the center at speed because it has less foundation to keep it flat. Many of the car tires I looked at were designed specifically to resist this tendency to bulge in the middle, giving a better footprint and better wear at speed.

Think about it. Why does the OEM tire wear so quickly in the center? It's because at 70 mph that's the only part of the tire in contact with the pavement.

It does follow that a car tire, being a stiffer design, would give a somewhat harsher ride. But I have not heard any complaints of this from those running car tires.

Lamont and others are getting great rear tire service at less than 1/2 the price. Sounds good to me.

[BajaRon]

With the Kumho,

On tirerack, they say that wet traction is not that good...although dry pavement looks great (A,A rating for temp and traction).

The overall rating is in the 6s..I didn't see other options there so there's nothing really to compare it to.

How would the stock tire compare to the Kumho?

I'm not too worried about dry road traction as this should be fine for any higher speed rated tire...the issue for me would be wet/damp/slick conditions...

I know many here know a ton more than me about tires, but is this a viable option?

http://www.vulcantire.com/cgi-bin/tiresearch.cgi?stock=804&f=ze912_t.htm&refad=Froogle804

The Falken ZIEX ZE-912 is an alternative because it comes in the correct size. But every review I've read on this tire gives it very poor wet performance ratings, as you stated. For that reason it is not a tire I would run on the Spyder.

If you search by size on Tire Rack (225 50 15), you'll find a number of alternatives. Some are very bad in wet conditions, though, and I would eliminate them as possibilities.

I have not been able to find any ratings or reviews on the OEM Kenda tire. This is not surprising as it is basically a Spyder specific tire.

[czdaryle]

did a search and didn't find anything in the how to, but how hard is it to take the wheel of and the put the tension back on the belt. Can you get away with just using that tool from NAPA? What about the bearings, is that easy to change? Thanks

[ElkSpyder]

did a search and didn't find anything in the how to, but how hard is it to take the wheel of and the put the tension back on the belt. Can you get away with just using that tool from NAPA? What about the bearings, is that easy to change? Thanks

I just asked my dealer about the cost the change the rear tire and was quoted $260.00. :gaah: That sounds like 2.5 hours of labor. When I was a kid working summers in a motor coach garage we could change all 6 tires in less time than that. How hard is it to change this tire?

[DragonSpyder]

In 11,000 miles I have now gone through 2 rear tires. The centers wear out and the outside is almost like new. I don't think pressure matters as the center of the tire balloons at speed. Anyone that rides at high speeds alot and does not haul a trailer or passenger is going to wear out the centers. Those folks that are getting more miles riding without a passenger are most likely cruising around town. I do not spin the rear tire on purpose but hit 100MPH often which is why I think it wears out so quickly. I have run anywhere from 20Lbs to 30Lbs without a difference in the wear.

[NancysToy]

In 11,000 miles I have now gone through 2 rear tires. The centers wear out and the outside is almost like new. I don't think pressure matters as the center of the tire balloons at speed. Anyone that rides at high speeds alot and does not haul a trailer or passenger is going to wear out the centers. Those folks that are getting more miles riding without a passenger are most likely cruising around town. I do not spin the rear tire on purpose but hit 100MPH often which is why I think it wears out so quickly. I have run anywhere from 20Lbs to 30Lbs without a difference in the wear.
:agree: These lightweight carcasses may make for a lighter weight tire, but they allow distortion from speed, especially on a wide tire. My suspicion is that a good, speed-rated, belted auto tire will wear much more evenly at speed.
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

[BajaRon]

In 11,000 miles I have now gone through 2 rear tires. The centers wear out and the outside is almost like new. I don't think pressure matters as the center of the tire balloons at speed. Anyone that rides at high speeds alot and does not haul a trailer or passenger is going to wear out the centers. Those folks that are getting more miles riding without a passenger are most likely cruising around town. I do not spin the rear tire on purpose but hit 100MPH often which is why I think it wears out so quickly. I have run anywhere from 20Lbs to 30Lbs without a difference in the wear.

I'd say you are a prime candidate for a car tire. They put additional strength in the center of the tire specifically to reduce the balloon effect we are experiencing on our very light duty tires.

This keeps the full tred width in contact with the pavement. Not only will that help the tire last longer but it can't hurt traction either.

[BajaRon]

:agree: These lightweight carcasses may make for a lighter weight tire, but they allow distortion from speed, especially on a wide tire. My suspicion is that a good, speed-rated, belted auto tire will wear much more evenly at speed.
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

:agree: 100%. And I'm about to give this theory a try. I finally decided to get the Toyo Proxes T1R tire. I like the tread design (not a logical approach but you have to look cool). All the reviews are very good both wet and dry.

I think Lamont and others have already made a good case having gone through at least 2 stock tires and now running a car tire. They are still getting good traction, wet or dry, and it appears tread wear is going to be much better. We still don't know for sure because I don't think anyone has yet worn out a car tire.

But if anyone can wear out a car tire it will be Lamont. And at less than 1/2 the price of an OEM tire, that's not bad.

The Toyo T1R is closer to the cost of an OEM tire. I only saved about $50. Still, If I get more than the 13000 miles that my stock tire ran that will increase the savings.

[bjt]

It does look cool. http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Toyo/T1R.htm

[BajaRon]

It does look cool. http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Toyo/T1R.htm

Secretly, I'm hoping this tire has more "COOL" than Lamont's Kuhmo :ohyea:...It is very rare that I can out COOL Lamont. But I'm always trying!

He's a natural, I've got to work at it. :D:D:D

[krb1945]

Will 175/65 14 fit the front without cutting or modifying the fenders or mounts?

You may want to look at the Michilin for a rear. Excellent in the wet. I've run them on everything for years.

I learned several years ago to avoid the yoko because no matter which one I got it would have a hydroplaning problem in these FL thunderstorms. I don't have that problem with the MXV4 or any other do-boy tire. And they have 225/60/15 it is just a little taller but now much.

[bjt]

Secretly, I'm hoping this tire has more "COOL" than Lamont's Kuhmo :ohyea:...It is very rare that I can out COOL Lamont. But I'm always trying!

He's a natural, I've got to work at it. :D:D:D


:lecturef_smilie: You'll never out cool him if you keep getting your cool parts sent to his place so he can get his cool vibe built up off of them. :D :D :D :D

[OZBITS1]

G"day I don't want to up set the apple cart but" I have been told if I do not run the standard tyres which are rated as motorcycle tyres for some reason, that I may void any insurance claim in the event of a crash. Yet the car rated tyres sound a better option.
Regards Darren

[mjw930]

While I'm a firm believer that MC tires belong on MC's and car tires belong on cars BUT, since the Spyder basically uses a modified car tire provided by the lowest bidder I think the conversion to another tire is almost a no brainer. Too bad there isn't a compatible front (yet).

There are 2 tires that I haven't seen in these discussions that I think are perfect for the Spyder:

The Hankook Ventus R-S2 @ $99

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hankook&tireModel=Ventus+R-S2&partnum=25WR5Z212&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/hankook/hk_ventus_rs2z212_ci2_l.jpg

and the BF Goodrich g-Force Sport @ $99

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+Sport&partnum=25VR5GFSP&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/bfg/bfg_g_force_sport_ci2_l.jpg

I've used the g-Force sport on a GTi and it's a great all season tire with a relatively soft sidewall that I think would work great on the Spyder. I have a friend who has run the R-S2 on an S2000 and a Mini Cooper S and has nothing but good things to say about it. For an overall wet and dry performer I think the g-Force is the way to go.

[dltang]

While I'm a firm believer that MC tires belong on MC's and car tires belong on cars BUT, since the Spyder basically uses a modified car tire provided by the lowest bidder I think the conversion to another tire is almost a no brainer. Too bad there isn't a compatible front (yet).

There are 2 tires that I haven't seen in these discussions that I think are perfect for the Spyder:

The Hankook Ventus R-S2 @ $99

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hankook&tireModel=Ventus+R-S2&partnum=25WR5Z212&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/hankook/hk_ventus_rs2z212_ci2_l.jpg

and the BF Goodrich g-Force Sport @ $99

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+Sport&partnum=25VR5GFSP&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/bfg/bfg_g_force_sport_ci2_l.jpg

I've used the g-Force sport on a GTi and it's a great all season tire with a relatively soft sidewall that I think would work great on the Spyder. I have a friend who has run the R-S2 on an S2000 and a Mini Cooper S and has nothing but good things to say about it. For an overall wet and dry performer I think the g-Force is the way to go.

I have been looking at the BF Goodrich myself for the next rear but I have to tell you, I am getting more miles out of the Kumho I have on there now than I did on the stock and it is less than half the price.

[BajaRon]

While I'm a firm believer that MC tires belong on MC's and car tires belong on cars BUT, since the Spyder basically uses a modified car tire provided by the lowest bidder I think the conversion to another tire is almost a no brainer. Too bad there isn't a compatible front (yet).

There are 2 tires that I haven't seen in these discussions that I think are perfect for the Spyder:

The Hankook Ventus R-S2 @ $99

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hankook&tireModel=Ventus+R-S2&partnum=25WR5Z212&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/hankook/hk_ventus_rs2z212_ci2_l.jpg

and the BF Goodrich g-Force Sport @ $99

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+Sport&partnum=25VR5GFSP&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/bfg/bfg_g_force_sport_ci2_l.jpg

I've used the g-Force sport on a GTi and it's a great all season tire with a relatively soft sidewall that I think would work great on the Spyder. I have a friend who has run the R-S2 on an S2000 and a Mini Cooper S and has nothing but good things to say about it. For an overall wet and dry performer I think the g-Force is the way to go.

Did a fair amount of research before I went with the Toyo T1R. In all of the ratings generated from actual driving by experts the Hankook was very low, especially in wet conditions.

Since my highest priority was wet performance I did not consider the Hankook. The G-Force rated much higher but not as good as the Toyo T1R. Plus, I really like the look of the tread on the Toyo T1R. Not my 1st priority but one of the criteria I was interested in.

Since the Spyder kind of showcases the rear tire I thought an impressive tread pattern was a plus.

[powerbyaj]

Comparison between Nitto NT450 and OEM Tire:

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i265/powerbyaj/SpyderOther/RearTire/Mine/TireComparison.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i265/powerbyaj/SpyderOther/RearTire/Mine/TireComparison002.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i265/powerbyaj/SpyderOther/RearTire/Mine/TireComparison003.jpg

[BajaRon]

I would love to compare my new Toyo tire to the stock tire.....

But Lamont is out riding right now.

What a great guy! First he had it mounted on the rim, installed it with proper belt tension and alignment (he's really good at that), and now he's testing my tire for me, free of charge!

You just don't find friends like this anymore....Do you....? :dontknow:

[DragonSpyder]

I found this tire and it looks like it could be a good option for the Spyder!

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireDetail.do?pc=38497&counter=1&ar=45&rd=16&sw=false&cs=225

[BajaRon]

I found this tire and it looks like it could be a good option for the Spyder!

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireDetail.do?pc=38497&counter=1&ar=45&rd=16&sw=false&cs=225

That probably would be a great tire for our Spyder. Downside is they don't make it in our size.

That is the problem with many of the tires I would like to try.

[Putt-Putt]

Have you noticed that the stock tire has wear bars that are at different heights. I like the looks of the Nexen-N2000. Now has anyone put on the size 175 fronts on instead of the 165 stock tire? Did it fit under the fenders with no problems? It is a lot easyer to find the 175 size. That is what size I was thinking about putting on.

[b2k]

That probably would be a great tire for our Spyder. Downside is they don't make it in our size.

That is the problem with many of the tires I would like to try.
Ron this is no problem to fix (just a few strike of the keys)
That is the problem with many of the tires LAMONT would like to try:2thumbs:

[jimmykjimmy]

I just asked my dealer about the cost the change the rear tire and was quoted $260.00. :gaah: That sounds like 2.5 hours of labor. When I was a kid working summers in a motor coach garage we could change all 6 tires in less time than that. How hard is it to change this tire?

Is changing the rear tire that big a deal. Sounds like the dealer is trying to retire on the change out.

[BajaRon]

Ron this is no problem to fix (just a few strike of the keys)
That is the problem with many of the tires LAMONT would like to try:2thumbs:

Well, at least I ordered him the right tire size...hope he likes "His" new tire!

[BajaRon]

Originally Posted by ElkSpyder http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=118099#post118099)
I just asked my dealer about the cost the change the rear tire and was quoted $260.00. :gaah: That sounds like 2.5 hours of labor. When I was a kid working summers in a motor coach garage we could change all 6 tires in less time than that. How hard is it to change this tire?
.

This is for the tire plus labor isn't it? Even that is high when you can get a great tire for less than 1/2 that amount. Way less than 1/2.

[ElkSpyder]

This is for the tire plus labor isn't it? Even that is high when you can get a great tire for less than 1/2 that amount. Way less than 1/2.
No just the install. And I did get the same Toyo tire you found. Sorry you can't have mine either.

[BajaRon]

No just the install. And I did get the same Toyo tire you found. Sorry you can't have mine either.

Really? They stood there with a straight face and told you $260 labor to put your tire on your Spyder?

That is outrageous!

(I don't want to keep your tire. I'd be more than happy to return it. I just want to use it for awhile...I'd send it back as soon as I see the wear bars).

[Olddude39]

As far as guessing air pressure is concerned I found that the recommend air pressure on the oem tires are a little low. I run 20psi in the front and 30psi in the rear.

On the Kumho tire I run anywhere from 32psi to 40psi and it really doesn't seem to make much of a difference.

With over 35,000 miles on my tires it's more about not having to change a tire in the middle of a trip or changing it before it really needs it because I don't want to change in the middle of a trip. I'll be heading to Sturgis soon and I'll be running this tire and I'm pretty sure I'll make it there and back without needing a new tire. If this was the oem I would be changing it out when I had a good 3K left on it.

Are you saying that you are getting 35K miles on the Kumho rear tire or am I missing something?
Thanks

[Peter Aawen]

Are you saying that you are getting 35K miles on the Kumho rear tire or am I missing something?
Thanks

:oldpost:

Olddude, it always pays to check the date that any thread you might want to reply to started, AND check the date of the most recent posts in the thread too! ;) In this case, the post you quoted & are replying to was made about 12 years back!! :shocked:

As for the tire milage, Yes, 35K on a good quality automotive rear tire (ie, not Kenda or any of their clones! :p ) is quite achievable, altho I'd suggest that running anything much more than 18 or so psi in a car tire is likely to compromise the ability of that tire to properly or to it's best potential do the job of keeping you safe & comfortable on the road while returning good tire life!! :lecturef_smilie:

This is because 'Real' car tires have a somewhat heavier construction than that of the lightweight OE spec Kendas, so the car tire's construction (especially that of their sidewalls, tread layers, & the tread compound itself... ) will support waaay more than the 'much lighter than the average car' type loads imposed by our Spyders; and that means that if you run them at 'normal car type pressures' of 30 psi or so, they will be over-inflated, resulting in very little flex during their use, giving you a really solid ride & jarring everything from the road surface on up, potentially damaging components along the way; and it'll also mean that the tire's tread will never reach its optimum operating temperature! That in turn will mean that you are getting less than optimum traction, ride, & handling characteristics from the car tire, and the 'over-inflation for the load' pressures will be exposing the tire to greater tread wear & a higher risk of damage by road debris, potholes, etc plus all that other stuff!! It's be sorta like over-inflating a party balloon & expecting it not to blow if you poke it with anything pointed! :yikes:

If all other things remain equal, then running 'stronger & heavier constructed' car tires under a lighter weight machine will mean you'll need less air pressure in them to carry the lighter load & still get them to work properly! :thumbup: But as always, it's your Spyder & your tires, so you can choose to do with them as you will. :rolleyes:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

:oldpost:

Olddude, it always pays to check the date that any thread you might want to reply to started, AND check the date of the most recent posts in the thread too! ;) In this case, the post you quoted & are replying to was made about 12 years back!! :shocked:

As for the tire milage, Yes, 35K on a good quality automotive rear tire (ie, not Kenda or any of their clones! :p ) is quite achievable, altho I'd suggest that running anything much more than 18 or so psi in a car tire is likely to compromise the ability of that tire to properly or to it's best potential do the job of keeping you safe & comfortable on the road while returning good tire life!! :lecturef_smilie:

This is because 'Real' car tires have a somewhat heavier construction than that of the lightweight OE spec Kendas, so the car tire's construction (especially that of their sidewalls, tread layers, & the tread compound itself... ) will support waaay more than the 'much lighter than the average car' type loads imposed by our Spyders; and that means that if you run them at 'normal car type pressures' of 30 psi or so, they will be over-inflated, resulting in very little flex during their use, giving you a really solid ride & jarring everything from the road surface on up, potentially damaging components along the way; and it'll also mean that the tire's tread will never reach its optimum operating temperature! That in turn will mean that you are getting less than optimum traction, ride, & handling characteristics from the car tire, and the 'over-inflation for the load' pressures will be exposing the tire to greater tread wear & a higher risk of damage by road debris, potholes, etc plus all that other stuff!! It's be sorta like over-inflating a party balloon & expecting it not to blow if you poke it with anything pointed! :yikes:

If all other things remain equal, then running 'stronger & heavier constructed' car tires under a lighter weight machine will mean you'll need less air pressure in them to carry the lighter load & still get them to work properly! :thumbup: But as always, it's your Spyder & your tires, so you can choose to do with them as you will. :rolleyes:

:agree: ..... Peter do you realize that after you & I pass on ( hopefully not for very long time ) or leave Spyderlovers, there will not be anyone ( that I know of ) to continue our Mantra about " Tire Science " ..... maybe Kenda tires will hear what we've been preaching :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ... I think not .....Mike :thumbup:

[troop]

OK .. So has anyone been able to get 30+K miles out of a auto rear tire? I see threads in the low 20K's, but not 30 :)

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OK .. So has anyone been able to get 30+K miles out of a auto rear tire? I see threads in the low 20K's, but not 30 :)

well I have 24,000 + miles on my currant rear tire ( a Pirelli P-4 all season + ), but it still has quite a bit of tread left .... I'm pretty sure it will get at elast 30,000 + miles ..... Mike :thumbup: .....PS it has been superceded by a new model .....

[shakin_jake]

well I have 24,000 + miles on my currant rear tire ( a Pirelli P-4 all season + ), but it still has quite a bit of tread left .... I'm pretty sure it will get at elast 30,000 + miles ..... Mike :thumbup: .....PS it has been superceded by a new model .....


~~~just curious Mike, what’s the born on date of that pirelli tire?


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood