Laser alignment, or toe-in problem?

[Fat Baxter]

I'm trying to determine whether I need another laser alignment, or whether I merely have a toe-in problem.

Recently my 2014 RT-S has become a bit twitchy at the front end, especially at interstate speeds. I also noticed the front tires are wearing a bit in the inside edge of the tread. My first thought was I need another laser alignment (I had one done four years ago). I've since replaced the fronts and recently the rear, so I thought perhaps something's wandered out of whack. But going through some back threads I read that the only adjustment you can make to the front is toe-in. So now I'm wondering if only I need is a toe-in tweak.

I have a pending appointment with my dealer to look at this, and I want to be better armed to discuss it with them. Right now, the appointment is set to do a laser alignment. I'd hate to go through that expense and effort but not address the right problem. Will a laser alignment also address toe-in issues as part of the process? Thanks!

[BoilerAnimal]

If they know what they're doing.........yes.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

It does sound like an alignment issue ….. and actually the Toe ( in or out ) is the only thing in the front alignment that can be adjusted …. this is the BRP design used for the front suspension ….. Mike :ohyea:

[PMK]

Your understanding is correct. However, realize that if your drive belt is properly tracking, then a laser alignment and toe in adjustment are the same, granted they may center the electronics for the steering too.

A few things can change a properly aligned Spyder.
1) You could have hit a curb or hole with enough force to bend and A arm or twist the frame. Pretty certain you would know about that one.
2) You gained weight and now the front end sits lower, altering the bump steer effect and altering toe setting. Pretty certain you would know this also.
3) With age on the machine, various items can wear or free up. Commonly it is deemed that springs may take a shorter length over time. This could be a contributing factor. Other considerations are front wheel bearings getting worn or even worn ball joints in the suspension, or tie rod ends in the steering. Those items should be corrected if needed
4) Possibly the previous alignment was correct but close to the toe out limit, and any of the factors above may have set it over the edge from toed in to toed out.

If the machine rolls straight with the bars centered, you could lengthen each tie rod 1/8 turn and note if it is better. Honestly, if you are comfortable doing 1/16 of a turn per rod, that would be a better initial test, but either will work. You must lengthen the rod to gain toe in. The tie rod ends are opposite threads at each end, so loosening both nuts, then simply turn the tie rod in the proper direction. Secure the nuts when done and be certain the tie rod ends can float without binding.