Bearings- What Am I Doing Wrong?

[h0gr1der]

During my tire replacement follies, I discovered that my rear rim and wheel bearings are also Chinese. Can't do much about the rim, but I can source American bearings.

Everyone throws around the 6205-2RS single row and the 30BD40DF2 double row bearings. I ordered both, but they don't match in size.

I bought SKF Explorer 6205-2RS single row bearings. They are 25 I.D. x 52 O.D x 15W mm.

The other NSK 30BD40DF2 double row is 30 I.D. x 55 O.D. x 23W mm.

Looking up the 6205-2RS specs at bearing jobbers, it seems the 25x52x15 are standard dimensions.

Did the axle change? Wrong part numbers? Why 2 different I.D. and O.D.? I want to make sure I have the right parts on hand for when I pull it down. Any help would be much appreciated.


Driven pulley takes a 30BD40DF2 (double row) Also Known As: 30BG05S5G2DS 30x55x23mm.

Wheel takes 2 of 6205 2RS bearings. Seals are 37x55mm two needed but will need OEM as they're an odd size

Three O-rings 15IDx3mm needed and one 60IDx3mm

The O rings and seals are cheap so replace all. Allow a couple of hours, no need to rush. Circlip pliers needed and usual hand tools. The OEM pulley bearing doesn't seem to last terribly long - usually the first of the 3 to go and indicated by belt track moving and/or click/rattle (but this can be caused by other things too.)

[Madison Sully]

So are the bearings bad, or are you just pissed they came from China?

Because, if it's the latter, I'm guessing there are a LOT of other parts you are going to need to replace.
Most anything with copper wire windings, for instance....

[Chupaca]

Wherever they are from the OEM ones have worked well for me with over 40,000 miles of aggressive ryding. Regardless there are three bearings. Two are the same on either side of the wheel hub and the double on the sproket. I get them from cheapcycleparts.com two for 7.99 each and the other for 24.99. There should be a cross reference chart for them if you go with other brands....:thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

During my tire replacement follies, I discovered that my rear rim and wheel bearings are also Chinese. Can't do much about the rim, but I can source American bearings.

Everyone throws around the 6205-2RS single row and the 30BD40DF2 double row bearings. I ordered both, but they don't match in size.

I bought SKF Explorer 6205-2RS single row bearings. They are 25 I.D. x 52 O.D x 15W mm.

The other NSK 30BD40DF2 double row is 30 I.D. x 55 O.D. x 23W mm.

Looking up the 6205-2RS specs at bearing jobbers, it seems the 25x52x15 are standard dimensions.

Did the axle change? Wrong part numbers? Why 2 different I.D. and O.D.? I want to make sure I have the right parts on hand for when I pull it down. Any help would be much appreciated.

I have those three bearings on my workbench ( as I type this )….. they are the same #'s you have …. They are dated 03/06/13 ( small ones ) …. and 07/03/13 large one ….. they are all " NSK " products …. it's interesting the small ones are from China …. the large one is from U.S.A. ….. form the dates I'm pretty sure I bought them for my 2011 RSS …..they are Sealed bearings so I'm not sure what Freddy is referring to …. hope this helps …. Mike :ohyea:

[Freddy]

During my tire replacement follies, I discovered that my rear rim and wheel bearings are also Chinese. Can't do much about the rim, but I can source American bearings.

Everyone throws around the 6205-2RS single row and the 30BD40DF2 double row bearings. I ordered both, but they don't match in size.

I bought SKF Explorer 6205-2RS single row bearings. They are 25 I.D. x 52 O.D x 15W mm.

The other NSK 30BD40DF2 double row is 30 I.D. x 55 O.D. x 23W mm.

Looking up the 6205-2RS specs at bearing jobbers, it seems the 25x52x15 are standard dimensions.

Did the axle change? Wrong part numbers? Why 2 different I.D. and O.D.? I want to make sure I have the right parts on hand for when I pull it down. Any help would be much appreciated.


When you dismantle the wheel you will see the reason. The pulley bearing does not run directly on the axle. :cheers:

You will need Loctite 660 and primer if the bearings are loose in their (Chinese) bores.

[h0gr1der]

Having experienced poor quality control from Chinese metallurgy both professionally and personally, I'd rather not have Chinese bearings. I had a buddy that did some technical work in China, he said that the Chinese professionals used tools and equipment that was every bit as good as anything produced in the USA. The problem isn't quality availability, it's profit margins. Sure, the Chinese can make good bearings, but if you buy lots of 20,000 bearings at a cost of $2.00 each, you get exactly that, $2.00 bearings. Reference Harbor Freight tools. Crude metal items are good, sophisticated technical items are hit and miss. I've never in my life had a replacement schedule set on any motorcycle (or car, or wheelbarrow for that matter). That alone tells me that BRP knows that either the bearings are out of specification for the use or of such low quality that they must be replaced before failure. So far I have not found a replacement schedule for the new bike bearings, but if they're sourced from the same suppliers rest assured they are in the same boat.

[PMK]

With all that has been mentioned, regarding Spyder wheel and pulley bearings, if a choice exists, what brand would be the preferred brand and country of manufacture?

[h0gr1der]

I've never had a Timken bearing made in the USA fail. I can say the same for SKF, and I include the Japanese sourced bearings in that. I think it's more a quality control issue, regardless of origin if it's a cheap bearing (or any component for that matter) then you may get a good one, or it may fail PDQ. I've also used NSK, and in fact that is the one sitting on my desk for the pulley side. It's made in USA. Note that all the manufacturers have gone overseas for some of their lines, including Timken.

[Freddy]

Gee h0gr1der, what do you expect for the $ you paid for that machine? SHEEEESH!

[h0gr1der]

I know! Kind of like in the early 80's, before custom gun-smithing went mainstream. If you wanted an accurate 1911 .45, you bought the Colt, threw away about half the gun, and made it back with the better parts.

I read all the parking brake failures, switch pack failures, DESS failures, and I think "you get what you pay for". They're obviously subbing it out to vendors that are screwing them royally. No other explanation that I can see. I feel like I got one of the good ones, I have driven it rather aggressively and never seen Nanny, it runs smoothly, and the only weirdness I've seen is the parking brake failed to release once, but self remedied after a brief period. Mine seems great for the most part.

I reckon I'm going to have to buy the OEM wheel bearings and cross them back to something better.

[Freddy]

:thumbup: I've found that packing new bearing with grease prior to fitting is the way to go. As you probably know, they are assembled in the factory with no more than a lick of grease. I now always flip a seal out and add a 'finger full' and replace the seal before fitting. I've had no bearing trouble whatsoever since doing this, regardless of make or machine. :cheers:

[h0gr1der]

Been talking to bearing manufacturers and found out about that adding some grease thing. The bearing I have for the pulley, the double roller one, is filled with a white grease, according to NSK that's ENR or ENS grease is a Polyolester and is incompatible with many greases. If I decide to add more I'll probably flush it out completely and start with new, fresh grease. Also, many bearings have a very specific fill volume as overfilling can cause them to overheat. I think the NOS NSK double row bearing I picked up was slated for an electric motor or something. Supposed to be a good bearing though.

[PMK]

Been talking to bearing manufacturers and found out about that adding some grease thing. The bearing I have for the pulley, the double roller one, is filled with a white grease, according to NSK that's ENR or ENS grease is a Polyolester and is incompatible with many greases. If I decide to add more I'll probably flush it out completely and start with new, fresh grease. Also, many bearings have a very specific fill volume as overfilling can cause them to overheat. I think the NOS NSK double row bearing I picked up was slated for an electric motor or something. Supposed to be a good bearing though.

Wheel bearing RPM and loads are pretty low compared to max ratings. Grease incompatibility is real, but often not an issue, however, correctly done the bearings should be flushed, ideally ultrasonic cleaned, rinsed, dried correctly filled with proper grease, then reinstalled.

Once the rear wheel is removed, the reason for differences in the inner diameters, as already mentioned, becomes obvious on account of the spacers.

[Freddy]

I think both are probably correct about grease, but as PMK says, the low RPM overrides any concern - I've never had a problem after adding grease but I've had some with no grease added.

[h0gr1der]

Some folks make a big deal about popping the seals out, but I won't install one without at minimum doing a visual inspection inside. What if your NOS bearing is 25 years old and all the oil in the grease has migrated out? What is if is a Monday morning bearing and got no grease? The Spyder has seals upon seals, I don't think anything can get to the bearings even if you use a shielded and not double sealed bearing.

[trikermutha]

I know! Kind of like in the early 80's, before custom gun-smithing went mainstream. If you wanted an accurate 1911 .45, you bought the Colt, threw away about half the gun, and made it back with the better parts.

I read all the parking brake failures, switch pack failures, DESS failures, and I think "you get what you pay for". They're obviously subbing it out to vendors that are screwing them royally. No other explanation that I can see. I feel like I got one of the good ones, I have driven it rather aggressively and never seen Nanny, it runs smoothly, and the only weirdness I've seen is the parking brake failed to release once, but self remedied after a brief period. Mine seems great for the most part.

I reckon I'm going to have to buy the OEM wheel bearings and cross them back to something better.

If you find something let us know. I did the same trying to cross but came up empty. For what its worth the OEM bearings do hold up quite well. And have a spare set they day I do need to change out. They are not cheap to buy

[billybovine]

I bought a spare set of bearings, o-ring and seals for my 09 in 2011. Just in case I needed them. So 8 years, 120,000 kms (75,000 miles) over 3 Spyders and multiple rear tire replacements. I replaced the o-ring once. The rest are still in my tool box. Just in case I need them for my 2018.

[h0gr1der]

I bought a spare set of bearings, o-ring and seals for my 09 in 2011. Just in case I needed them. So 8 years, 120,000 kms (75,000 miles) over 3 Spyders and multiple rear tire replacements. I replaced the o-ring once. The rest are still in my tool box. Just in case I need them for my 2019.

Mr. Billybovine
Were the bearings you bought in 2011 already switched to China? Could you post the brand and bearing numbers please? Save me from pulling perfectly good bearings just to make sure. I can just about cross reference anything, so maybe I don't have to reinvent the wheel.

I have a set of made In USA bearings, new old stock.
SKF Explorer 6205-2RS Size 25x52x15 mm. Single roller bearing.
NSK 30BD40DF2 Size 30x55x23mm Double roller bearing.

I know this has been gone over too many times, but I find no reference on the grade of bearings used. Is the clearance tolerance C2, C3, Normal? Don't know until you know. Before I just jam some NOS bearings in there, I need to make sure they match the application.

[billybovine]

They are NSK bearings.