General Altimax rear tire - how do you access valve stem??

[gianfri]

Hello,

following the good advice of many forum members I just ahd my bike shop replace the rear tire of my 2014 RT with a General Altimax RT43. I like it a lot so far, but my problem is, how in the world do people access the tire valve? The stem is turned to the left side, towards the transmission belt and I see no way to reach it. What am I missing? Thanks!

[RICZ]

That valve requires a straight air chuck.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hello,

following the good advice of many forum members I just ahd my bike shop replace the rear tire of my 2014 RT with a General Altimax RT43. I like it a lot so far, but my problem is, how in the world do people access the tire valve? The stem is turned to the left side, towards the transmission belt and I see no way to reach it. What am I missing? Thanks!

The info I orig. typed here has been removed by me - for reasons I won't mention ……. Do you know what the ' IGNORE " list is ……. :roflblack:

[UtahPete]

Hello,

following the good advice of many forum members I just ahd my bike shop replace the rear tire of my 2014 RT with a General Altimax RT43. I like it a lot so far, but my problem is, how in the world do people access the tire valve? The stem is turned to the left side, towards the transmission belt and I see no way to reach it. What am I missing? Thanks!

There are many threads on the topic of rear wheel valve stem access on the RT. It has nothing to do with the tire that is mounted. Some of the solutions involve a different style of valve stem, but that involves demounting the tire.

I adapted my Ryobi tire inflator to accept a different chuck, which makes it easier to inflate the tire. But, it's still a hassle. Fortunately, the tires hold the pressure pretty well and only need occasional attention.

[Bensonoid]

This air chuck works perfectly.

[gianfri]

There are many threads on the topic of rear wheel valve stem access on the RT. It has nothing to do with the tire that is mounted. Some of the solutions involve a different style of valve stem, but that involves demounting the tire.

I adapted my Ryobi tire inflator to accept a different chuck, which makes it easier to inflate the tire. But, it's still a hassle. Fortunately, the tires hold the pressure pretty well and only need occasional attention.

Thank you for your reply. I managed to access the previous tire (stock that came with the bike) but I cannot reach this one, so there must be something different.....

[UtahPete]

Thank you for your reply. I managed to access the previous tire (stock that came with the bike) but I cannot reach this one, so there must be something different.....

In that case, it sounds like your tire installer replaced the OEM valve stem with something different. You might need to ask them to replace with the correct valve stem.

[gianfri]

In that case, it sounds like your tire installer replaced the OEM valve stem with something different. You might need to ask them to replace with the correct valve stem.

So is the stem mounted on the rim, or does it come with the tire? Sorry, I am obviously very ignorant about this issues....

[UtahPete]

So is the stem mounted on the rim, or does it come with the tire? Sorry, I am obviously very ignorant about this issues....

It's a tubeless tire (just like automobile tires), so it's mounted to the rim. It's very common for a tire shop to replace the valve stem at the time they replace a tire, but it's not at all necessary.

Bicycle tires are different; they use inner tubes with the valve stem as part of the inner tubes.

[gianfri]

It's a tubeless tire (just like automobile tires), so it's mounted to the rim. It's very common for a tire shop to replace the valve stem at the time they replace a tire, but it's not at all necessary.

Bicycle tires are different; they use inner tubes with the valve stem as part of the inner tubes.

I knew it was tubeless, so it makes sense that the valve is on the rim. I am not sure why I find it more difficult to reach it now than before then. I will check with the installer to see if they changed the valve. Thanks!

[JerryB]

Hi Bensonoid,

Re: This air chuck works perfectly.

I bought one of those a few weeks ago & agree completely.

I put the valve stem at about 11 o'clock & have great access to it; both for checking the pressure & adding/removing air.

Jerry Baumchen

[gianfri]

This air chuck works perfectly.

Do you know where to find it, or the make and model? Thank you.

[pegasus1300]

Google "Harley Davidson valve stem extension". Harley has the same problem with their ultra glides. They have a nifty little extension that allows you to check or add air, I think it is 10.95 and is about 6" long. I have one and it works great.172255

[JayBros]

Google "Harley Davidson valve stem extension". Harley has the same problem with their ultra glides. They have a nifty little extension that allows you to check or add air, I think it is 10.95 and is about 6" long. I have one and it works great.172255

Absolutely!!!

[JerryB]

Hi gianfri,

Re: Do you know where to find it, or the make and model? Thank you.

I bought mine up the street at the local auto parts store.

I suggest you print out the photo & take to it an auto parts store & see if they have one/can get you one.

Jerry Baumchen

[Peter Aawen]

Was it a Dealer or workshop who pulled the wheel off your Spyder & stripped the drive sprocket etc ready for the tire to be replaced, and then re-assembled it all & replaced the wheel on your Spyder Gianfri? :dontknow:

Any chance that when the wheel assy was removed from the Spyder & being stripped of the drive sprocket & cush pads, the sprocket's position wasn't marked or taken note of, so that once it came time to fit that back on, it could be put back on in the same position? If the sprocket is 'clocked' just a little, & then replaced on the wheel assembly in the wrong position so that one of its spokes is now hiding the valve stem, you probably won't be able to check the tire pressure once it's on the Spyder again?? It's certainly possible to do that, and once the wheel is back on the Spyder, if one of the drive sprocket spokes is located such that it hides the valve stem, it is damn near impossible to get to even WITH any of the handy devices mentioned above!! :opps:

If that's what's happened, the rear wheel assy will need to come off the Spyder again to fix it, but at least the tire doesn't need to be de-mounted - just the sprocket & cush pads. Once the wheel is off the bike, you'll hafta pull the sprocket off and clock it correctly so that there isn't a spoke in the way of getting at the valve stem. Not massively hard, but certainly annoying to hafta do it. That's why I asked who did the wheel & sprocket remove & refit job?!? That someone is likely going to need to fix it! :sour:

[Navydad]

What Peter said. :agree:

[Ibified]

Absolutely!!!

And they guarantee it won't leak oil for at least 3 days.

��������������

[Freddy]

I find that a 2" long tubeless valve stem is much more practical (assuming that the spokes are aligned as Peter points out) as it is more flexible for easy access.

[RudyB]

You should be able to access it make sure wheel position is so that valve stem at bottom slightly to right and should be able to access it

[gianfri]

Was it a Dealer or workshop who pulled the wheel off your Spyder & stripped the drive sprocket etc ready for the tire to be replaced, and then re-assembled it all & replaced the wheel on your Spyder Gianfri? :dontknow:

Any chance that when the wheel assy was removed from the Spyder & being stripped of the drive sprocket & cush pads, the sprocket's position wasn't marked or taken note of, so that once it came time to fit that back on, it could be put back on in the same position? If the sprocket is 'clocked' just a little, & then replaced on the wheel assembly in the wrong position so that one of its spokes is now hiding the valve stem, you probably won't be able to check the tire pressure once it's on the Spyder again?? It's certainly possible to do that, and once the wheel is back on the Spyder, if one of the drive sprocket spokes is located such that it hides the valve stem, it is damn near impossible to get to even WITH any of the handy devices mentioned above!! :opps:

If that's what's happened, the rear wheel assy will need to come off the Spyder again to fix it, but at least the tire doesn't need to be de-mounted - just the sprocket & cush pads. Once the wheel is off the bike, you'll hafta pull the sprocket off and clock it correctly so that there isn't a spoke in the way of getting at the valve stem. Not massively hard, but certainly annoying to hafta do it. That's why I asked who did the wheel & sprocket remove & refit job?!? That someone is likely going to need to fix it! :sour:

Ah! This is EXACTLY what happened! The valve is right behind a spoke. I can touch it, but there is no space to insert even a flexible extension tube. Back to the shop. Thank you!

[Freddy]

With a 2" valve stem you can access it. Just saying for a friend. :cheers:

[Bensonoid]

Do you know where to find it, or the make and model? Thank you.
I've had mine for so long I can't remember where I stol...bought it. I googled it to get the picture, they are quite common. I've seen a quite a few spyders that have had the pulley put back on in the wrong position like Peter mentioned. Everyone should take a picture of their rear wheel showing the valve stem in between two of the sprocket spokes to show your tech how to put it back together.

[SpyderAnn01]

Ah! This is EXACTLY what happened! The valve is right behind a spoke. I can touch it, but there is no space to insert even a flexible extension tube. Back to the shop. Thank you!

We see that happen a lot and I always tell people to go back to whoever installed the tire and ask them to check the pressure because you can’t. Then make them re-clock the pulley for you.

[gianfri]

We see that happen a lot and I always tell people to go back to whoever installed the tire and ask them to check the pressure because you can’t. Then make them re-clock the pulley for you.

I went back to the shop and they were very nice about it. They took the wheel off and readjusted as needed. All is good. Thank you so much for all your advice! I don't know what type would do without this forum......

[Gwolf]

Oh well, all better now............ but back to checking the pressure, I have this;

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71rPoMp3DVL._SX522_.jpg


and


https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/617du3i1%2BML._SL1500_.jpg

[UtahPete]

Oh well, all better now............ but back to checking the pressure, I have this;

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71rPoMp3DVL._SX522_.jpg


and


https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/617du3i1%2BML._SL1500_.jpg

I think those gauges may not have the accuracy or precision needed for the sub-30psi inflation specs of the Spyder

[RICZ]

Something like this I find mo bettah......
https://www.amazon.com/TireTek-Premium-Pressure-Gauge-Integrated/dp/B00PT18QAQ/ref=lp_15709131_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1558815381&sr=1-8

[Gwolf]

I think those gauges may not have the accuracy or precision needed for the sub-30psi inflation specs of the Spyder

They seem to be plenty accurate. I also have a couple of the small dial gauges like you linked to. Very little difference in the pressure readings. I use the straight pressure valves and gauges on tractor and loader tires that run 15 to 25 psi all the time. If you prefer the smaller dial gauge, that is fine. The straight line is what stays hooked to my air hose and it is very easy to use on the Spyder tires.

[JerryB]

Hi Pete,

Re: I think those gauges may not have the accuracy or precision needed for the sub-30psi inflation specs of the Spyder

I use these; very accurate:

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Programmable-display-batteries-included/dp/B00443ZNOM/ref=sr_1_3?hvadid=78683852414981&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=craftsman+tire+pressure+gauge&qid=1558842594&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spell

Jerry Baumchen

[h0gr1der]

I built mine out of certified accuracy Wika gauges. 2.5" liquid filled 30 PSI range. Adapted it to the 1/8" thread, and it works great at the low pressures we run.