DIY Hydraulic Hand Brake on 2008 Spyder RS- Done

[MoDZuKi]

Hi All.. Havent posted very much - BUT I an trying to tailer my 2008 RS to a bit better ergonomics. The first major problem was lifting my foot to press the brake lever- Having to lift my foot up was not cool. I found my reaction time was way too slow. So I decided to add a HAND BRAKE (my Spyder is a SM5). Looking at ISCI and the like and the price blew my socks off- about $1800 by the time it would reach me in Canada. So I decided to engineer and machine my own solution sorta based on the same Idea.
The mechanism is machined out of 6061-T6 aluminum with a stabilizing strut that extends from the rail to a frame bolt where the rear peg frame bolts on. The Master cylinder is from a 2014 Suzuki Vstrom DL650 (A bike I just sold, mine was a 2009) (was from a Bike parts yard), This brake is adjustable and has good volume as the Vstrom has dual front discs. I did have to make a custom clamp to fit the space on the RS and space it out a bit further) The Slave cylinder is a clutch slave cylinder off a Hyundai Tiburon (Amazon $23). Brake line is a nice stainless steel braided line 2 meters long (Amazon $22).
Brake actuation is positive and crisp- foot brake function is maintained and the whole system really is comfortable.
Total cost with all hardware, aluminum and brake components about $160 canadian (I did the machining and Autocad design myself).
Some pics for reference.. I did a cheesy Youtube video on the install https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGlQ8BlTF4g
Cheers
Dave

[rwill2cruz]

Nice work! They should come that way.

[Chupaca]

Well done..:2thumbs: the ISCI is the only one out there I know of and ,agreed, is super expensive. Hope it works better than theirs...:thumbup:

[Haze]

Very nice construction.
Built from available parts and affordable too.
Thanks for the photos.

[Eckhard]

MoDZuki.

I am interested in adapting your design to my 2011 RT. Would you care to share your parts list and CAD models?

Thanks.

[SpyderConvert]

Great job!!

[safecracker]

Great job.

[MoDZuKi]

Yes I can do that! Just need to clean up the drawings.
Cheers
Dave

[Easy Rider]

Does your hardware have a slight extra return spring somewhere.......to be sure that everything retracts ??

ISCI went overboard with theirs and it works much better with a weaker spring.

[MoDZuKi]

Hi. Well the way I did mine is a tad different. When you buy a clutch cylinder normally there’s a spring behind the piston that gives an assist to push the piston OUT against the clutch spring and plate. I took that spring and put it on the opposite side of the piston giving a positive retract action to push the hydraulics always to the master. It works great. The ISCI system uses an external spring on some pics I have seen that pulls the stock brake back. It has lots of spring already so I don’t see the point of that. A spring on the mechanism to keep it pulled back if you apply the foot brake but in my design the system floats with the pedal while the cylinder retracts. Oh also you have to take the flow restrictive check valve out of the slave cylinder too. Just a spring and a sheet metal part under the banjo bolt

[BajaRon]

Very nice!

[Haze]

I too am interested in the CAD drawings and more assembly details.
Great job. Have you thought of preparing a kit to sell to us?
We are a ready market.
David C.

[jerpinoy]

awesome and I'm sure some us will need that and bless you for sharing

[MoDZuKi]

I am working on it.. tweaking a few bits here and there.. Problem is I am in Canada and I would not want to get in a Peeing match with ISCI. Mine is similar but of course different geometry and different parts- I chose stuff that worked and adjusted the mechanics to suit. There are other Clutch cylinders that are smaller with smaller bores that would likely fit better. Saying that A clutch cylinder for a Mazda B210 is actually Aluminum and small but then I would have to redesign the whole thing and start over. Likewise the old Toyota Celica has a really nice cylinder with a smaller bore still.
I'll see what I can do on the drawings- But without a Milling machine and lathe its not really feasable or possible for the home user (unless you can get the parts made). I'll do what I can on Autocad to see if I can simplify the whole system to the point that it can be made with off the shelf parts..

[Easy Rider]

It has lots of spring already so I don’t see the point of that.

The Spyder is really sensitive to not having the brake linkage 100% retracted.
They kind of went overboard with the amount of "safety tension" that they added.

[MoDZuKi]

Actually I JUST added a third spring to my arrangenent- Its a fairly light spring that pulls on my actuation arm specifically and retracts it. My arm and clevis does NOT move when you activate the foot brake. When I now actuate the hand brake- everything retracts as one. The spring to retract the slave cylinder remains and can actually operate independantly of the rest of the mechanism since the rod coming from the clutch cylinder Piston is not physically attached to the output rod and clevis attached to the actuation arm( its guided and sits in a "cup" in the clutch cylinder piston like it does in a car) . So each portion on my arrangement has an independant spring. I have tested for hours today and its all smooth and everything retracts as it should.

[oldgoat]

Excellent job!

[Buck6675]

Any info you could send or share would be great I have a prosthetic leg foot brake it tuff. Thanks again.

[K80Shooter]

Any info you could send or share would be great I have a prosthetic leg foot brake it tuff. Thanks again.

The op has not been on here since November 21, you might want to try to email him.