2016 RTS Hood Woes...

[stevencovert]

A person backing out of her driveway bumped the nose of my parked 2016 RTS. Hood popped up - the plastic ripped from the 4 bolts on the hinge. When back home I pulled the 4 bolts, clipped away the ripped plastic, trying to get the hood to seat "well enough" until fixed. Got it so it was about 1" from closing, then some resistance. Was bouncing it looking at bolts trying to figure out out to tweak and accidentally locked it. Then found key had zero resistance when trying to unlock hood or seat! Watched a couple vids on locked hoods, read threads here; no avail. Got pretty upset, hood was toast anyways so it came off in pieces, until the last one with the latch. Then saw the big tab behind the locking mechanism that could been pushed (somehow??) to open the hood. No wonder (older) videos didn't help - whole different setup!

So now I am assuming the mechanicals in the keyswitch are broken from the hood (somehow) ripping out of the latch and yanking the cable. Of course I read nothing but horror stories about getting the keyswitch out, needing BUDS, dealers charging $800 or so, etc. A new assembly is $240 from cheapcycleparts.com I see. Of course still would need a tow to dealer for BUDs.

Insurance somehow came up with an estimate and put it in my account. It's about half of what the panels and a dealer installed ignition would be. I'm saving all receipts to go back for more $$. Like I said, I'm a DIY'er when it comes to my baby - err bike.

So, has anyone got advice on removing the ignition? I do have the service manual but wow does BRP leave out many steps (and pictures for dummies like me). I see the places where the cable ends attach to the device in pictures of the ignition switch. Any chance it can be opened to repair? I'd like to avoid the bike staying at a dealership for weeks... It just got nice out!!


Thanks!
Steve

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

A person backing out of her driveway bumped the nose of my parked 2016 RTS. Hood popped up - the plastic ripped from the 4 bolts on the hinge. When back home I pulled the 4 bolts, clipped away the ripped plastic, trying to get the hood to seat "well enough" until fixed. Got it so it was about 1" from closing, then some resistance. Was bouncing it looking at bolts trying to figure out out to tweak and accidentally locked it. Then found key had zero resistance when trying to unlock hood or seat! Watched a couple vids on locked hoods, read threads here; no avail. Got pretty upset, hood was toast anyways so it came off in pieces, until the last one with the latch. Then saw the big tab behind the locking mechanism that could been pushed (somehow??) to open the hood. No wonder (older) videos didn't help - whole different setup!

So now I am assuming the mechanicals in the keyswitch are broken from the hood (somehow) ripping out of the latch and yanking the cable. Of course I read nothing but horror stories about getting the keyswitch out, needing BUDS, dealers charging $800 or so, etc. A new assembly is $240 from cheapcycleparts.com I see. Of course still would need a tow to dealer for BUDs.

Insurance somehow came up with an estimate and put it in my account. It's about half of what the panels and a dealer installed ignition would be. I'm saving all receipts to go back for more $$. Like I said, I'm a DIY'er when it comes to my baby - err bike.

So, has anyone got advice on removing the ignition? I do have the service manual but wow does BRP leave out many steps (and pictures for dummies like me). I see the places where the cable ends attach to the device in pictures of the ignition switch. Any chance it can be opened to repair? I'd like to avoid the bike staying at a dealership for weeks... It just got nice out!!


Thanks!
Steve

Hi, I'm the ( self-proclaimed King ) of DIY'ers ( check my albums for a few of the things I've done ) ………… way back in 2014 I decided the Ignition switch should do only One thing - start & stop the engine ….. I attached a thin braided wire ( 1/16" the green covered one from Home Depot - which you can buy it by the foot ) by drilling a small hole at the end of the long arm … ( this gives the best leverage ) put a small block at one end and threaded the wire through the hole ( from it's left side so it will release when pulled in that direction ) in the arm …. I put a Pop Rivet ( after taking out the tiny rod (?) on the wire and double crimped it ( it is the only way I open my Frunk now )….has worked for the past 5 years ….. I used to put these on as a Vendor at Spyder events …. the end with the block just feed the wire to the left side , down into the open cavity and drop it behind the grill …… I also made something similar for the seat latch ….. Remember that cable either broke or became dis-connected once already … it will happen again ….good luck .....Mike :ohyea:

[stevencovert]

Great idea! I was wondering where I could put a hide-away pull.

[Revalden]

Are you sure the lock mechanism is fubar? Don't mess with the switch, do the cable thing or just cut the cable that comes from the switch, put a handle on it and drop it behind the left grill. My RT is apart at the moment and I'm gonna add the emergency wire and drop it in there while it's easy.

[stevencovert]

Yes it is my switch mechanism. Maybe the cables popped out when my hood was bumped - I don't know. Today I yank on both seat and hood cables while twisting the key, as I read someone got it to pop back in (whatever was wrong). No dice. No resistance either way.

The wife can never use the key to open the hood or seat anyways :). So dumb question - how did you drill the tab? I'm scared to remove the bolts for the mechanism as it looks like it would pop all over having a spring in there. I see on my 2016 there is a small vertical tab with a square cutout near the left side, unused. good place to route a wire. Also doing the seat, looking for a hidden area to place a loop.

Thank guys!
Steve

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Yes it is my switch mechanism. Maybe the cables popped out when my hood was bumped - I don't know. Today I yank on both seat and hood cables while twisting the key, as I read someone got it to pop back in (whatever was wrong). No dice. No resistance either way.

The wife can never use the key to open the hood or seat anyways :). So dumb question - how did you drill the tab? I'm scared to remove the bolts for the mechanism as it looks like it would pop all over having a spring in there. I see on my 2016 there is a small vertical tab with a square cutout near the left side, unused. good place to route a wire. Also doing the seat, looking for a hidden area to place a loop.

Thank guys!
Steve

I mounted a couple dozen … Emergency cable openers ( which should be used ALL the time )…. for customers when I was a Vendor ...If you want help PM me ….. Mike :ohyea: