Canister-Ectomy - 2008-2016 SM5/SE5

[BajaRon]

Every so often I get questioned about doing a Canister-Ectomy on the V-Twin, 998cc versions of the Spyder. So I thought I'd detail it here in the hopes that it will help someone. This process removes both the Fuel Vapor Canister and the problematic Purge Valve (one is remove, the other incapacitated.

While the Evap-Fuel Vapor Canister issues were more prominent on the earlier models. 2008-2012, this general procedure will also work on the later models. Done correctly, this will eliminate all fuel smells and the potential fire hazard that these present when not functioning properly. Plus, it will eliminate any issues with filling your fuel tank all the way to the top. This can give you up to 30+ miles extended range on your 998 Spyder, depending on how you are filling it now. There is a small triangle at the top of your fuel gauge. Most have never seen it because most have never actually filled their fuel tank. It is interesting that BRP has the 'Full Mark' on the gauge and then tells you not to fill it all the way up.

Removing the vapor recovery canister system will also save you a little on maintenance costs.

The diagram below is of the earlier 2008-2012 models. BRP made some minor modifications to this system on the 2013 and later models. But the major components are the same and the general Canister-Ectomy process applies. This is a simple and inexpensive modification.

Referring to the diagram below. Once you remove the fuel vapor recovery canister located on the right side of the Spyder, behind the Tupperware (#21), you are left with 2 hoses, (#19 & #24). Hose #23 is just a vent to outside air and goes away with the canister.

Taking care of Hose #24. This is your fuel tank vent hose, which is required. You need to route and zip tie this hose back along the right side frame to somewhere about mid rear fender. You want to route this vent hose (#3) upward from the fuel tank until it naturally begins to descend to the exit point. This will happen automatically if you follow the frame tube to the back. The existing hose is not long enough to get this far back so you will need to purchase an appropriately sized hose barb (Pictured Below) and another length of hose to extend it. These can be found at any auto parts or lawnmower shop. While you are there get a small fuel filter similar to the one pictured. I like the clear ones so you can see what is going on at the end of your vent hose, but virtually any version will do.

Insert the fuel filter at the end of the fuel tank vent hose you've routed to the rear of your Spyder. Mount it horizontally as pictured. This will keep any foreign substance from entering the vent hose and will also serve to give you indication if any liquid fuel is being pushed through the vent hose as it will collect at the bottom of this filter. This will tell you if you have installed the vent hose correctly. You can clamp these fittings if you like. But it is not necessary. I did not clamp any of mine. A good tight fit is more than sufficient.

Some have run this hose over the engine to the front of the Spyder, I am assuming with decent results. This may be a bit easier. However, I do not like the idea of running a fuel vapor hose over a hot engine to vent in front of the rider. If there are any fumes, or raw fuel, I would rather have it go out the back.

169742 169743

Taking care of Hose #19. This hose connects to your purge valve, (#18) and then to the intake side of your engine via hose (#22). There are a number of ways you can deal with this. I've found it easiest to simply put an appropriately sized, 1/2 long or so, bolt with some silicone sealer into hose (#19) leaving the rest of the system in place. But whatever you do, you will need to seal this system so no air can enter, either before or after the Purge Valve (#18). I recommend simply leaving the purge valve in and plugging the hose on the intake side. Do not leave this hose open no matter which way you intend to complete this portion of the removal process.

As always. You can hover you mouse pointer over a picture and it will enlarge for better detail.

169744

[Haze]

Ron,
Thanks for the clear and concise details.
I have the parts and will be doing the canisterectomy
along with my "Spring Service" later this week.
Just needed a push to get me started.
Cheers, David C.

[Grandpot]

My 2011 RTS developed a slight throttle surging when cruising. It wasn't serious, but very annoying. The Canisterectomy cured it 100%.

[BajaRon]

If nothing else, doing this Canister-Ectomy will give you piece of mind. It will avoid any future issues and can solve some current problems. The smell is gone, the potential hazard is gone, and you can fill your fuel tank to the top without worry. Cheap, easy, and well worth the effort.

[Chupaca]

Always good to have clear instructions for these changes. :bowdown: I know the question comes up from time to time and the twins are still out there....:thumbup:

[JerryB]

Hi Ron,

Re: Canister-Ectomy - 2008-2016 SM5/SE5

I just finished doing this to my '08 GS.

Purge Valve Line)

I simply cut it off right where it entered the canister. I took a 5/16” bolt, wrapped it with teflon tape as used in plumbing, ran the bolt in & secured with a worm drive clamp.

I then secured it to the frame with two zip ties; in white in this photo:

170238


Fuel Filter)

You will note in the above photo that I moved the line from the fuel tank upward so that the line is routed above where it goes into the fuel tank.

In the lower left of the above photo is where I secured the fuel line to the frame. I use white zip ties whenever doing things like this as they are easy to see/find if I should need to remove them in the future.

Here is the filter almost vertical:

170239


Line Routing)

Here where I terminated it. It is turned down slightly so any gas should readily drip onto the ground.

170240

Jerry Baumchen

PS) This is the fuel filter that I bought. It comes with various size fittings for different sizes of hose. I used 1/4” fittings & 1/4” hose. It is a Mr. Gasket product, #9706; bought at a local auto parts store:

170241


170242

And by installing the filter directly into the line from the gas tank I did not need this:

170243

[JerryB]

Hi folks,

Re: Canister-Ectomy - 2008-2016 SM5/SE5

One additional bit of info. I replaced my fuel filter at the same time as I did the Canister-ectomy. One thing to know is that the clamp that holds the fuel filter in place does not have a captive nut on the back side.

If you simply remove the bolt that you can see:

170244

the nut will fall away; quite possibly in one of those black voids, never to be seen again.

I used a 10 mm box end wrench to hold the nut & then VERY carefully removed it.

Jerry Baumchen

[jayallday01]

All good posts.

I think the procedure is basically set with a variance or two. I put my fuel filter between Hose #24 and a hose that was already routed underneath the Spyder vs the fuel filter at the end of #24. its all zip tied to the frame and away from the engine. I am sure it will work just the same. So far the surging/bucking and gas smell are eliminated. Thank you to everyone, past and present, for the instructional posts.

[donhy]

Thanks for the write-up BajaRon, just had mine done.

[donhy]

Is vasectomy just as easy ? I need that done next or i risk loosing my spyder

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Is vasectomy just as easy ? I need that done next or i risk loosing my spyder

Just a heads - up ….. REMOVING the cannister Might make your Spyder Un-inspectable …… Go to my Albums , I posted pics - labeled " Gas smell Fix " there is a written explanation ( if you enlarge the pic ) of how to cure the problem and leave the cannister in …… Mike :ohyea:

[JerryB]

Hi donhy,

Re: Is vasectomy just as easy ?

Actually, much easier; I did not have to do any work. :yes:

Jerry Baumchen

[philbtv]

171405
Hey look! I can see the little triangle at the top of the fuel gage-that I never saw until I did my canisterectomy. Another added bonus! Thanks Ron and Jerry for all the help!

[Upcoaster]

Does anyone recall the diameter info for hose #24 and the coupler? I want to make sure I pick up the proper supplies for extending it down the frame a bit (as instructed).
It would be nice to have the right stuff on hand before I begin.

Thanks in advance!

[SERGIU]

Hi,

I want to do this procedure to my 2008 Spyder with only 350km on board, but I saw the final part on the hose above the exhaust pipe and this is NOT a good idea!

I will go to the front of the bike, put the hose in a thermal plastic near the engine, I hope this is better.

Sergiu.

[BajaRon]

Hi,

I want to do this procedure to my 2008 Spyder with only 350km on board, but I saw the final part on the hose above the exhaust pipe and this is NOT a good idea!

I will go to the front of the bike, put the hose in a thermal plastic near the engine, I hope this is better.

Sergiu.

I recommend running the vent hose up along the right frame tube (sitting on the Spyder) to the back and terminate under the rear fender. The vent tube originates near the right front of the tank. If you have any fumes at all they will exit behind you rather than in front of you. And you avoid being anywhere near the engine, as you will if you go forward. This also keeps the entire vent tube above the fuel tank except for where you go downhill at the very end. This way there is no possibility of any fuel pooling along the way. I put a clear, lawnmower fuel filter (like the one pictured below) at the end of the vent hose so that I can check to see if any liquid fuel is going out and to keep anything from getting in. This has been done many ways. But I still think this is the better way to go.

178255

[krakum1967]

Thanks for the write up on this, definitely something I need to do before the riding season kicks in full time.

[Bangorbob]

I have read about this and was trying to find the hose size, which I think is 1/4. I believe the fuel filters are 5/16. While looking at the illistrated parts breakdown I noticed that there is California models and non-California. My 2012 RT was purchased in Ca and I brought it to Nevada. Is this procedure the same for both Ca and Non-Ca bikes?

Thanks, Bob

[krakum1967]

Doing this change this week since I have it skinned for the new air intake and filter. Get it done since its down, than I can start on the Xenon light kit, and handle bar risers..

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Doing this change this week since I have it skinned for the new air intake and filter. Get it done since its down, than I can start on the Xenon light kit, and handle bar risers..

I accomplished the fix a bit differently - I didn't remove the cannister, I just routed the hoses so that NO gas could ever enter the cannister …. if there is some gas in the cannister now, it will evaporate.....and as long as no more is going in any issues will cease …. I have good pics and written explanations …. in my album of the same name …. good luck …. Mike :ohyea:

[BajaRon]

I have read about this and was trying to find the hose size, which I think is 1/4. I believe the fuel filters are 5/16. While looking at the illistrated parts breakdown I noticed that there is California models and non-California. My 2012 RT was purchased in Ca and I brought it to Nevada. Is this procedure the same for both Ca and Non-Ca bikes?

Thanks, Bob

All Spyders have the evap canister. It is a federal, nation wide, requirement. Sorry, I do not remember the vent hose size. But 1/4" is probably in the ball park.

[Bangorbob]

Thanks Ron. While I am in that area with all the tupperware removed, is there anything else I can look at, remove, modify?

Bob

[krakum1967]

I finally did this job, kept putting it off, and that was dumb, I can run the trike in the car port now and not get gas stoned, I think part of me will miss that, but its really not good for you, and doesnt set a good example for neighborhood kids either....

Anyway, I had a fuel filter exactly like the one pictured hanging in the shop, and I have moved it to 3 different houses and shops now, its been 8 years of "I will use it someday", piad 95 cents for that thing...I finally used just it, and the extended hose. I use the filter as the joiner tube, and I ran forward, I had enough hose to vent it through the same holes as the radiator drains, but it runs way up high on the high frame way before that, not gonna get any drips there, and its forward of the engine, and goes out the tube hole for the radiator reservoir drain.

OMG, the SMELL IS GONE....its like a BB King song playing in the back ground, substitute thrill for smell.....

Thanks for this guys, its works for sure, and yep, I see the top corner thingy in the gauge now, and it filled a bit more than usual I think, I will have mileage tests later to prove it. THE SMELL IS GONE!!!!!!!

[BajaRon]

That's good news in any language (or song)!

[KX5062]

I have read about this and was trying to find the hose size, which I think is 1/4. I believe the fuel filters are 5/16. While looking at the illistrated parts breakdown I noticed that there is California models and non-California. My 2012 RT was purchased in Ca and I brought it to Nevada. Is this procedure the same for both Ca and Non-Ca bikes?

Thanks, Bob

I did it on my old 2008 Commiefornia edition and it was the same. And, I will add that it DID make a big difference. DO IT!

[Skathe57]

Thank you all for this thread and comments nice to see everyone's little pieces of wisdom if not before this will be done this winter when she is put away for awhile. anybody have any warnings about the sequential led turn signals for the front fenders from sling mods that was the other thing i had in mind for this off season. thanks again

[AVBIZ]

Just completed the mod; thanks Ron for the info.

[TONYO]

This is a great fix! I love it.BUT Mine drips a few drops of gas after a ride.Was wonderin if I could put a check valve in the high part of the line n fix the drips? TYIA

[AVBIZ]

This is a great fix! I love it.BUT Mine drips a few drops of gas after a ride.Was wonderin if I could put a check valve in the high part of the line n fix the drips? TYIA

Not sure about the check valve; sounds like you just need to route the gas tank vent hose higher than the tank before running to the rear of the bike.

[PatrickH]

Hello BajaRon,
Will I have benefits if I do this to my 2014 RT LTD (SE6)?
PatrickH

[larryd]

Hello BajaRon,
Will I have benefits if I do this to my 2014 RT LTD (SE6)?
PatrickH

I have my 2014 RTS done for several years now...The reason I did mine was because of excessive cranking when trying to start the engine in extremely hot weather...I think mine had a periodic purge valve problem...Since venting the gas tank to the atmosphere the hard starting in hot weather has gone away...larryd

[PatrickH]

I have my 2014 RTS done for several years now...The reason I did mine was because of excessive cranking when trying to start the engine in extremely hot weather...I think mine had a periodic purge valve problem...Since venting the gas tank to the atmosphere the hard starting in hot weather has gone away...larryd

Thank you Larry. That helps. Patrick H

[BajaRon]

This is a great fix! I love it.BUT Mine drips a few drops of gas after a ride.Was wonderin if I could put a check valve in the high part of the line n fix the drips? TYIA

I would ask how you routed the vent hose? I'd say this is your issue. If you're getting raw gas out the end, something is wrong. You don't want a 'Check Valve'. This would defeat the purpose of the vent hose and probably cause major issues. You need to address the root problem. Done correctly, you will never have liquid come out the tube.


Hello BajaRon,
Will I have benefits if I do this to my 2014 RT LTD (SE6)?
PatrickH

If your EVAP canister system is working perfectly, there is no net benefit or negative to your Spyder's function. However, if anything at all is not just right. For example, if you fill your fuel tank to the top, or if the PCV malfunctions, etc., then you can have some major negatives. Eliminating this system precludes any of the issues that you might otherwise run into. One great advantage is that you can put more fuel in the tank, giving you greater range, with zero concerns.

[PatrickH]

I would ask how you routed the vent hose? I'd say this is your issue. If you're getting raw gas out the end, something is wrong. You don't want a 'Check Valve'. This would defeat the purpose of the vent hose and probably cause major issues. You need to address the root problem. Done correctly, you will never have liquid come out the tube.



If your EVAP canister system is working perfectly, there is no net benefit or negative to your Spyder's function. However, if anything at all is not just right. For example, if you fill your fuel tank to the top, or if the PCV malfunctions, etc., then you can have some major negatives. Eliminating this system precludes any of the issues that you might otherwise run into. One great advantage is that you can put more fuel in the tank, giving you greater range, with zero concerns.

Ron,
I like the greater range. Would hardly call that a side benefit. Thanks for the response.
PatrickH

[glennm]

Ron,
I like the greater range. Would hardly call that a side benefit. Thanks for the response.
PatrickH

Yep definitely a big plus on the V Twins.

[BajaRon]

Yep definitely a big plus on the V Twins.

Most people do not even know that there is a small triangle that appears at the top of their fuel gauge when the tank is actually filled to the top. Typically you can get 1/2 gallon or more in the tank if you work at it a bit. If you drill a hole at into the top of the metal inlet, you can fill that last amount faster. A large, wasted air space was built into the top of the fuel tank to try and keep the evap system from getting overwhelmed with raw fuel. With the Evap cannister eliminated, so is the problem of filling your tank.

I can typically go 15-20 miles before my triangle goes away. This adds about 10% to my overall range.

[PatrickH]

Ron, when you say " If you drill a hole at into the top of the metal inlet, you can fill that last amount faster. " where, exactly are you talking about drilling? Where you screw in the fill cap? If YES, where in that area? In the threaded portion?
PatrickH

[Possible]

Yeah, I'm wondering too.

[PatrickH]

Most people do not even know that there is a small triangle that appears at the top of their fuel gauge when the tank is actually filled to the top. Typically you can get 1/2 gallon or more in the tank if you work at it a bit. If you drill a hole at into the top of the metal inlet, you can fill that last amount faster. A large, wasted air space was built into the top of the fuel tank to try and keep the evap system from getting overwhelmed with raw fuel. With the Evap cannister eliminated, so is the problem of filling your tank.

I can typically go 15-20 miles before my triangle goes away. This adds about 10% to my overall range.

Hello Ron, when you say "If you drill a hole at into the top of the metal inlet, you can fill that last amount faster.", where are you talking about drilling? Is it in the neck just below the threads for the gas cap? Or is it IN the threads? I really like how you're talking about getting this extra range (gas capacity). PatrickH

[BajaRon]

Hello Ron, when you say "If you drill a hole at into the top of the metal inlet, you can fill that last amount faster.", where are you talking about drilling? Is it in the neck just below the threads for the gas cap? Or is it IN the threads? I really like how you're talking about getting this extra range (gas capacity). PatrickH

There is a small slot just below the threads on the upper side of the fill tube. This is designed to vent air as you fill the tank. But it is too small. You just want to enlarge this hole to at least 1/4". If you do it with a drill, go slow and use a magnet to catch shavings. Or, some have used a strong flat blade screwdriver to widen the hole. Though you have to be careful not to deform the fill tube in the threaded area. I'll attach a picture if I get time.

[Possible]

Thanks much for the clarification.

[Bangorbob]

The extra mileage is a good reason for me to do this. I hate having to figure fuel mileage out in the middle of death valley. Anyway, I ask what size the hoses, fittings, and fuel filter was for a 2012. I assume (bad word to use) that they are the same on a 2016 rt? I have not seen any sizes or parts needed in any post.

Thanks, Bob

[PatrickH]

There is a small slot just below the threads on the upper side of the fill tube. This is designed to vent air as you fill the tank. But it is too small. You just want to enlarge this hole to at least 1/4". If you do it with a drill, go slow and use a magnet to catch shavings. Or, some have used a strong flat blade screwdriver to widen the hole. Though you have to be careful not to deform the fill tube in the threaded area. I'll attach a picture if I get time.

Ron,
Thanks for the speedy reply. I just went out to my bike, took a photo of the fill tube, drew a circle around the slot I think you're talking about, and attached it here. Is this what you're talking about? Is that where to drill the 1/4" hole (or would a pair, side-by-side be best?)?
Regards, PatrickH

[larryd]

I WOULDN'T be drilling with an ELECTRIC drill in that area...Even with an air drill, all you'd need is a spark and you and the bike could be GONE...:(

[BajaRon]

Ron,
Thanks for the speedy reply. I just went out to my bike, took a photo of the fill tube, drew a circle around the slot I think you're talking about, and attached it here. Is this what you're talking about? Is that where to drill the 1/4" hole (or would a pair, side-by-side be best?)?
Regards, PatrickH

That is it.

[Peter Aawen]

....... You just want to enlarge this hole to at least 1/4". If you do it with a drill, go slow and use a magnet to catch shavings. Or, some have used a strong flat blade screwdriver to widen the hole. Though you have to be careful not to deform the fill tube .....

In lieu of a using a magnet to catch any shavings (it can be a tad difficult to find one of the right size & shape to fit near enough to the drill bit so that it can catch all the swarf/shavings as you drill) you could try liberating an old metal teaspoon from the kitchen; bending it's handle enough to give you a secure grip and also angle the bowl to let it fit in thru the filler hole of the tank & 'cup' underneath the area where you are going to drill; then remove it again; smear the teaspoon bowl liberally with a light but sticky grease or petroleum jelly etc; re-insert & drill away, safe in the knowledge that all the shavings will be caught in the grease! :ohyea:

[PatrickH]

Hello BlueKnight911,
I found your Gas Smell Fix photo. Thanks for posting it.
I'm trying to figure out how to do this procedure to my 1330cc 2014 RT LTD. What year/model bike is your Gas Smell Photo?
Looking at my service manual, it appears to me as though I'd have to remove the seat, the trunk, and saddlebags just to get to the plumbing you worked on for my 2014 RT. Do you know (or anyone else reading this) know whether I'm reading my manual correctly? Does anyone know of photos for a canister-ectomy for a 1330cc RT?
Regards, Patrick

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hello BlueKnight911,
I found your Gas Smell Fix photo. Thanks for posting it.
I'm trying to figure out how to do this procedure to my 1330cc 2014 RT LTD. What year/model bike is your Gas Smell Photo?
Looking at my service manual, it appears to me as though I'd have to remove the seat, the trunk, and saddlebags just to get to the plumbing you worked on for my 2014 RT. Do you know (or anyone else reading this) know whether I'm reading my manual correctly? Does anyone know of photos for a canister-ectomy for a 1330cc RT?
Regards, Patrick

GAS smell foto was on my 08 GS and then I did the same for my 2012 RSS both had the V-twin engine .....Hi, I also have a 14 RT .... I have never had any gas odor even on 100 F day ...... BRP did a major re-route of those lines for the 1330 models and I don't remember reading of them being an issue for them on this forum ..... Mike :thumbup: ..

[Bangorbob]

I know this is kinda of old thread, but I thought I would add/bring it up again. Took a 50 mile ride to and from Las Vegas. Parked in the garage and left the door open for about 15 minutes. Checked the oil level (pita). Anyway the wife opened up the garage door again because of gas smell. I have NOT done the mod yet. I assume it is time.
Secondly I ain't never seen the triangle on the gauge and can't seem to get the tank full.

[PatrickH]

Bob,
What is your year/model Spyder? What's PITA, besides animal lovers? - If you do the mod, I'd love to see your pictures.
Patrick

[BajaRon]

Bob,
What is your year/model Spyder? What's PITA, besides animal lovers? - If you do the mod, I'd love to see your pictures.
Patrick

:popcorn:

[Haze]

PITA = Pain In The A$$.

[Bangorbob]

PatrickH. Haze got it correct. PITA (pain in the A$$). I have a 2016 RTS, se6. Put in about 3 gallons today to see if the digital guage went to full and hoping I would see the magic triangle. Nada, bars only went orange til the last bar which was empty. Never got to full. The PO had the instrument panel replaced once. Can't remember why though.

[PhilY]

Thanks to Baja Ron for starting this thread. I just completed this job--toughest part was the fastener at the very front of the two halves of the black tupperware which covers the top of the tank.

Rather than routing the tank vent to the back as Ron suggested, I joined the the two tubes #23 and and #24 since 23 was the original vent which exits in front, away from the engine. Here are the three hoses, 24, 23 and the bottom of 19 plugged with a screw, after cannister was removed. I simply cut the hoses off.
192051

To join 23 and 24, I used this. Only used one hose clamp on the larger one (23) since this is not under pressure.
192052

Finished product. I cut off the curved part of 23 and still has lots of tubing. Zip tied tubing to frame in which cannister formerly resided. This does not incorporate the fuel filter but the exit tube is vertical and a long ways away from the tank. Hope it's ok.
192053

[RangerRick]

I did the Canister-Ectomy a while back. I ran the hose up high under the console where the switches are mounted under the steering wheel, then back along the frame to the rear under the tail lights, put a filter element on the end. It still puts an oily like coating on this cover over the back wheel, then weeps down the rear shock. :hun: So I added a hose on the other end of the filter and ran it clear down to the bottom of the rear shock mount, the damn thing can just leave its deposit on the ground. :coffee: In the pictures you can see where the filter is under the rear and then the oily deposits from it on the cover that's underneath.

[DaniBoy]

Ron, Couldn’t hose #24 just be disconnected from the canister and routed to the back with a filter and just leave the canister intact in the bike with hose #19 still attached and undisturbed? With that approach in mind, I have two questions:

a) Would it work?
b) Would it be necessary to install a rubber cap over
the nipple on the canister where #24 was?

My thought here is that those who live in states that inspect emissions can then easily just pop #24 off the coupling and back onto the canister before inspecting, then switch it back afterwards.

[BajaRon]

Ron, Couldn’t hose #24 just be disconnected from the canister and routed to the back with a filter and just leave the canister intact in the bike with hose #19 still attached and undisturbed? With that approach in mind, I have two questions:

a) Would it work?
b) Would it be necessary to install a rubber cap over
the nipple on the canister where #24 was?

My thought here is that those who live in states that inspect emissions can then easily just pop #24 off the coupling and back onto the canister before inspecting, then switch it back afterwards.

Yes, that would work. You still have the potential of PCV valve issues. But that is not a huge deal. You'll still get gas fumes for quite some time if the medium is soaked with liquid, as many are.

[DaniBoy]

I WOULDN'T be drilling with an ELECTRIC drill in that area...Even with an air drill, all you'd need is a spark and you and the bike could be GONE...:(

Trim a dry kitchen sponge to a circle to fit. Then get it wet and wring it out as much as you can with your hands and stick it down in. It will catch any shavings and block fumes.

[BajaRon]

I WOULDN'T be drilling with an ELECTRIC drill in that area...Even with an air drill, all you'd need is a spark and you and the bike could be GONE...:(

Where is your sense of adventure? Life can be so much more exciting if you just work at it a bit!:rolleyes:

I've done several without issue. Use a very slow speed and a very sharp bit. A cold day helps to keep the vapors down. A full tank also helps.

Some have used a punch to open the hole up. But that tends to deform the filler.

But don't do it if you don't feel comfortable.

[DaniBoy]

Thanks to Baja Ron for starting this thread. I just completed this job--toughest part was the fastener at the very front of the two halves of the black tupperware which covers the top of the tank.

Rather than routing the tank vent to the back as Ron suggested, I joined the the two tubes #23 and and #24 since 23 was the original vent which exits in front, away from the engine. Here are the three hoses, 24, 23 and the bottom of 19 plugged with a screw, after cannister was removed. I simply cut the hoses off.
192051

To join 23 and 24, I used this. Only used one hose clamp on the larger one (23) since this is not under pressure.
192052

Finished product. I cut off the curved part of 23 and still has lots of tubing. Zip tied tubing to frame in which cannister formerly resided. This does not incorporate the fuel filter but the exit tube is vertical and a long ways away from the tank. Hope it's ok.
192053

But how do keep raw gas from spilling out every time it sloshes in the tank? Ron’s method keeps the tank vent ABOVE the tank to prevent that. It only drops below the tank at the very end.

[DaniBoy]

Yes, that would work. You still have the potential of PCV valve issues. But that is not a huge deal. You'll still get gas fumes for quite some time if the medium is soaked with liquid, as many are.

The canisterectomy, even 100% Ron’s way doesn’t involve the PCV valve. I don’t have any gas fumes anyway (yet) but I figured I’d do the mod anyway while the weather is keeping me from riding.

[BajaRon]

The canisterectomy, even 100% Ron’s way doesn’t involve the PCV valve. I don’t have any gas fumes anyway (yet) but I figured I’d do the mod anyway while the weather is keeping me from riding.

The 100% version does not remove the PCV valve. But it blocks it off so that it no longer functions. It's just easier to accomplish it this way rather then removing it. Which is also an option.