Ryker drive train

[cueman]

I know that this was briefly talked about before but, the clunk when backing up or taking off, will this noise get more quiet or louder after break in? Maybe some of you folks that have this set up in ATV's will have some information to ad. :chat: cueman

[Tslepebull]

I can only speak for my experience with 250 miles on my Ryker. The clunk as not stopped but I have gotten more used to it. I have not completely investigated the gear box (and I am totally speculating here) but if the forward and reverse have "dog gears" like an outboard motor they would make a clunk as they actuate.

[BajaRon]

I do not have enough miles on my Ryker to say. But my feeling is, it's just the nature of the CVT beast. The drive train is designed to handle the 'clunk'. And it will not get any worse.

Every machine has it's idiosyncrasies. You either get used to them, or you don't. For example, some people coming from Harley's to the Spyder had a real hard time revving the 998 twin to where it is designed to operate. They lugged the engine in an effort to get the machine to comply with their understanding of how an engine should work, causing all kinds of issues and sometimes damage to components.

The rider needs to adjust to the machine and how it is engineered to function. This is always the best approach. The operator is the adjustable/adaptive component in this human/machine symbiotic relationship. This is a very important concept if you want to enjoy your ride.

[Sarge707]

I do not have enough miles on my Ryker to say. But my feeling is, it's just the nature of the CVT beast. The drive train is designed to handle the 'clunk'. And it will not get any worse.

Every machine has it's idiosyncrasies. You either get used to them, or you don't. For example, some people coming from Harley's to the Spyder had a real hard time revving the 998 twin to where it is designed to operate. They lugged the engine in an effort to get the machine to comply with their understanding of how an engine should work, causing all kinds of issues and sometimes damage to components.

The rider needs to adjust to the machine and how it is engineered to function. This is always the best approach. The operator is the adjustable/adaptive component in this human/machine symbiotic relationship. This is a very important concept if you want to enjoy your ride.
How are you enjoying the Ryker - You have not said much after your evaluation?
Is changing a sway bar a Pita?

[Rob Rodriguez]

I can't speak for the Ryker but in the snowmobile setup the "reverse clunk" is completely normal. That said. I had the 900 ACE snowmobile out this weekend. I had to use reverse a few times and the clunk is pretty quiet. Nothing to worry about.

[Triumphcycleman]

It will never change. It is literally a tolerance built into the drivetrain. It is more pronounced on their off road sxs's, a little less pronounced on their atv's.

[safecracker]

On my Skidoo 4 Stroke Legend, clunk is there. Also on both of my Outlanders, clunk is there. I believe it is the nature of the beast. Bruce.

[BajaRon]

How are you enjoying the Ryker - You have not said much after your evaluation?
Is changing a sway bar a Pita?

Well, actually a bit embarrassed about my lack of riding time. The weather has been pretty bad here and when it is nice enough to ride, I have not been able to. I need good conditions to give my Ryker a proper workout. I had planned to ride much more than I have and then evaluate the sway bar situation. But with the lack of saddle time I am going ahead with a prototype bar which, on paper, should be right. I will need some experienced test pilots when the time comes.

I have not attempted to pull the bar yet. I've heard it's a bit different and I've looked at the BRP manual regarding the job. Unfortunately, it just has not been possible to do it yet.

Believe me. I will post when I have something worthy to say. But so far, I am very impressed with the Ryker.

[Nico75]

Hi all ref the clunk when pulling off , I give it a bit more throttle and clunk is gone regards Nico 75

[ARtraveler]

No Ryker experience....but both my 2011 and 2014 RT's still do it on that initial shift.

[shakin_jake]

The Ryker use a driveshaft. On the end of that driveshaft is a universal joint which is the source of the clunk you hear. This clunk is even more pronounced when turning at slow speed in a tight circular fashion which I've been doing a lot lately with my Ryker Rally as I turn water on and off on several rows of bamboo we've planted recently on our farm
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49723170626_a29dab3e43_h.jpg

[chris56]

I have more than 12.000 miles on mine and I really love this kind of gearbox now, it needs a while to get the "feeling" how it works - if you drive fast in the curves the chassis is so quiet, because you have not to change the gears, like on my old Spyders nad thats one of the reasons why the Ryker is so fast(faster than my old V2-GS) - if you start a "little speedier" you will not hear this "clunk ..
(I`m still working on a more stable front on mine - hope the parts from BajaRon will help..)

listen to the start here :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8PQqLOFB3I&t=8s

[SportsterDoc]

The clunk is primary clutch engagement.
A gentle throttle up to engagement at 1800 RPM, then more throttle will lessen the clunk.

[sKiZo]

Mine clunked regularly when I first got it, but it settled down after playing with the throttle some and getting the hang of how to engage the beast. Practice makes perfect.

* My VMax clunked some, but mostly caused by barnett clutch plates shattering on takeoff. I hate that when that happens. ;-}

[Inge]

Chris, for a more stable front you might want to try the H&R swaybar & end links with H&R springs from Martin the vlogger. I have them on my 2022 Rally and am really pleased with them.