Tools needed for Ryker wheel change

[PW2013STL]

You will need BRP socket #529036457, and a torque wrench that goes to 300 nm (221 #lbs). Plus a large external snap ring plyers.

[Chupaca]

Or go to the dealer...:yikes: guess if you do some of your own work it is worth it but seeing as there is no belt you only need it to change the tire. Could rent the wrench or do what I do...220lbs full body weight and an extra jump....:roflblack: my weight

[Sarge707]

Everything else seems to be fairly customer friendly, why not the tire removal. I have to take the front off to wire my led fender lights unless the amber cap on the side comes off because I will run the wires up in that tunnel and the light will start just past the tunnel.

[Culpjp]

It's held on with one nut and a spring clip. I'm not sure if you can even rent the tool anywhere. If you watch Sean Smoak's second vlog on the Ryker he shows the tool you need to remove the nut. Also not very many cheap torque wrenches will go that high.
It seems for all the things that BRP made easier to service on the Ryker, the tires aren't one of them.

[Winnex3]

well its not hard it will just cost you more than you would like if you already had the tools it would be no big deal

[Mikey]

Don't know what the tool cost but if your handy with a torch or plasma rig you could easily make the tool! And just use the 220, jump method.:clap::ohyea:

[Sarge707]

https://www.amazon.com/Can-Am-New-Socket-65Mm-529036457/dp/B07KLNGP97

NOT CHEAP for the OEM version.

[Sarge707]

http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/can-am-socket-65mm-529036457-part.html

NOT CHEAP for the OEM version.

[Tslepebull]

The torque wrench shouldn't be too bad. Even in 3/4" drive its only about $110 . https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200627235_200627235

65 mm socket is only about $40. https://www.toolbarn.com/sunex-465m.html/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%28BSC%29&utm_keyword=sunex-465M&utm_content=fbWnJ5Dd_pcrid_11075488888_pkw_product _pmt_b_pdv_c&utm_source=bing&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping%28BSC%29&utm_medium=cpc&msclkid=c37b0fd6bd4f110e42ce53f7f2a90643

[PW2013STL]

The torque wrench shouldn't be too bad. Even in 3/4" drive its only about $110 . https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200627235_200627235

65 mm socket is only about $40. https://www.toolbarn.com/sunex-465m.html/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%28BSC%29&utm_keyword=sunex-465M&utm_content=fbWnJ5Dd_pcrid_11075488888_pkw_product _pmt_b_pdv_c&utm_source=bing&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping%28BSC%29&utm_medium=cpc&msclkid=c37b0fd6bd4f110e42ce53f7f2a90643

I do not believe that 65 mm socket would work as the nut used on the Ryker is not standard shaped. This is based off what Shawn S. Showed in his first video so I could be wrong.
As for the T wrench years back I was able to pick up a used snap-on 3/4" that goes up to 250 ft# from a snap-on salesman that was a trade in for a fraction of the cost.

https://youtu.be/nv8ZgGaMN9Y?t=164

[CTAC]

I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?

[PW2013STL]

I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?

You can go back to the dealer and ask them to check it and see if they will allow you to watch them do it so you will know if they have the correct tools and not doing the 220# Bubba method:shocked::shocked:

[CTAC]

Thanks... I will do that on Wednesday ☺

[canamjhb]

Or go to the dealer...:yikes: guess if you do some of your own work it is worth it but seeing as there is no belt you only need it to change the tire. Could rent the wrench or do what I do...220lbs full body weight and an extra jump....:roflblack: my weight

Or, do what I do. Enjoy a few extra calories and use 3/4th of your body weight and not have to try to jump. :bbq:

[PMK]

My thought, if you own a Ryker, buy the correct tool. The cost is not inexpensive, but not break the bank.

Get the correct socket, keep a note of the correct torque, then store it on your Ryker at all times. If you have an issue with a flat or failed tire, the current trend from tire shops is not to install a plug from the outside. The tire shop removes the tire and patches it.

Without the correct tool, damage may occurr to the nut, which no doubt is expensive also. Without the tool, a simple flat tire may require a tow to the nearest Can Am dealer, which will likely only replace the tire.

As for the torque wrench, those that have experienced incorrect torques from an inexpensive torque wrench understand why a quality torque wrench is essential. I would be more comfortable applying 110 pounds directly into a 2 foot long bar or 73 pounds onto a 3 foot bar vs using an inexpensive torque wrench that has not been calibrated.

[Tslepebull]

I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?

What you are hearing is likely drive-line lash. It is common in any shaft drive bike. It is caused by the play between the teeth on the shaft drive meshing with those of the final drive. It actually needs to be there so that the lubricant can flow between the gear teeth. All of my BMW's have done it. It would still be a good idea to verify with the dealer just to be sure.

[Tslepebull]

I do not believe that 65 mm socket would work as the nut used on the Ryker is not standard shaped. This is based off what Shawn S. Showed in his first video so I could be wrong.
As for the T wrench years back I was able to pick up a used snap-on 3/4" that goes up to 250 ft# from a snap-on salesman that was a trade in for a fraction of the cost.

https://youtu.be/nv8ZgGaMN9Y?t=164

Now I see what you are saying. The nut looks like is way more than 6 sided. The Can-Am tool it will be.

[PW2013STL]

Now I see what you are saying. The nut looks like is way more than 6 sided. The Can-Am tool it will be.

I counted 12.

[jcthorne]

Does anyone have a close up picture of the hub nut? Will a standard 65mm hub nut socket fit this?

168055

These are pretty common in the truck service field. Many Fords use a 65mm hub nut. The socket is under $20 at most auto parts stores. $40 will get you a name brand one.

[Tslepebull]

I counted 12.

This is actually listed as a socket specifically for a 12-point hub nut. It is cheap enough I may buy one and give it a try. If it is not a perfect fit the fall-back plan can still be the Can-Am part.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/65mm-HUB-NUT-SOCKET-3-4-DRIVE-12-POINT-FORD-HUB-NUT-SOCKET/262670282877

[PW2013STL]

Does anyone have a close up picture of the hub nut? Will a standard 65mm hub nut socket fit this?

168055

These are pretty common in the truck service field. Many Fords use a 65mm hub nut. The socket is under $20 at most auto parts stores. $40 will get you a name brand one.

Check out my link in post 10.

[bscrive]

Why would Can Am do such a stupid thing. My 1800 Valkyrie is a single swing arm and the wheel is put on with 5 lug nuts just like a car. Doesn't make sense to me. I think their engineers are looking at formula 1 race cars too much.

[Winnex3]

168057 love my Valkyrie cant wait for my Rally Ryker

[chris56]

168058maybe one of the Designers has an old Jaguar E ??
I love the idea of opening the front for service and the way how they fixed the wheels !!

https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-octagonal-knock-offs

[Cobwebs]

Why would Can Am do such a stupid thing. My 1800 Valkyrie is a single swing arm and the wheel is put on with 5 lug nuts just like a car. Doesn't make sense to me. I think their engineers are looking at formula 1 race cars too much.

Lower parts count to keep the cost down was the official reason on one of the early vids,same went for the shaft drive it was cheaper to produce than the belt and pulleys etc, with the bonus of being superior engineering for the job at hand.

[cueman]

It could be a well thought out plan to extract more $ out of your pocket if you plan on going through a lot of tires! LOL. I see that some of us are also Honda owners. We must be brothers & sisters from another mother! LOL :shocked: cueman

[BajaRon]

I purchased a 65mm socket for the Ford axle/hub nut. It appears to be the same shape as the Ryker wheel nut and it was pretty inexpensive.

1st picture is of a standard, straight edge, hex cut socket. This one will certainly NOT work on the Ryker wheel nut.

The 2nd picture is of the socket I purchased with a rounded tooth configuration very similar to the Ryker rear wheel nut. A subtle but significant difference. I'm hoping to get lucky here but I have some doubts that it will work. Still, for the price I thought it worth a shot. We will soon see. It should deliver early next week.

168088168087

[Winnex3]

Lower parts count to keep the cost down was the official reason on one of the early vids,same went for the shaft drive it was cheaper to produce than the belt and pulleys etc, with the bonus of being superior engineering for the job at hand.
Can-Am opted for a shaft drive on the 2019 Can-Am Ryker for two reasons. First, a shaft has reduced maintenance and improved longevity compared to a belt or chain drive. Second, the low-slung seating position conflicted with the belt drive found on the Spyder variants, so the Ryker’s shaft drive simultaneously serves as form and function. It’s a good solution for those who aren’t mechanically inclined.

[BajaRon]

Can-Am opted for a shaft drive on the 2019 Can-Am Ryker for two reasons. First, a shaft has reduced maintenance and improved longevity compared to a belt or chain drive. Second, the low-slung seating position conflicted with the belt drive found on the Spyder variants, so the Ryker’s shaft drive simultaneously serves as form and function. It’s a good solution for those who aren’t mechanically inclined.

There are advantages and disadvantages to shaft drive. Just like there are with any drive design. But I agree. For the Ryker, it's a good pick. It certainly will appeal to many.

[Michaelscs]

I purchased a 65mm socket for the Ford axle/hub nut. It appears to be the same shape as the Ryker wheel nut and it was pretty inexpensive.

1st picture is of a standard, straight edge, hex cut socket. This one will certainly NOT work on the Ryker wheel nut.

The 2nd picture is of the socket I purchased with a rounded tooth configuration very similar to the Ryker rear wheel nut. A subtle but significant difference. I'm hoping to get lucky here but I have some doubts that it will work. Still, for the price I thought it worth a shot. We will soon see. It should deliver early next week.

168088168087

Ron, you have a Ryker and I don't, but the straight cut tool in the first picture looks like exactly the right one, not the round cut tool.
I'm basing this on the Ryker wheel nut shown in Smoaks video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nv8ZgGaMN9Y&t=181s
Look at minute 2:43 on the video. What am I missing?

[PW2013STL]

Ron, you have a Ryker and I don't, but the straight cut tool in the first picture looks like exactly the right one, not the round cut tool.
I'm basing this on the Ryker wheel nut shown in Smoaks video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nv8ZgGaMN9Y&t=181s
Look at minute 2:43 on the video. What am I missing?

I agree. Looking at the video the nut looks like it has pointed corners, and the BMW tool he shows like a straight cut. If you go to my post #10 the link will take you right to where he shows the nut.

[cueman]

Dealer told me it is the CVT clutch working. Normal noise of the parts. IMO it is just a quirk we need to get used to. ;) cueman
I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?

[CTAC]

Thanks cueman... As long as it "is what it is", I can accept it.... Just didn't want anything loose causing the secondary pop sound.

[Grandpaspeed]

Thanks cueman... As long as it "is what it is", I can accept it.... Just didn't want anything loose causing the secondary pop sound.

Glad you got a answer

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Does anyone have a close up picture of the hub nut? Will a standard 65mm hub nut socket fit this?

168055

These are pretty common in the truck service field. Many Fords use a 65mm hub nut. The socket is under $20 at most auto parts stores. $40 will get you a name brand one.
If the drawing in the parts diagram is reasonably accurate it doesn't look like it will. A standard 12 pt socket may fit.

168202

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Here's a pic of the Spyder nut from Smoaks' video superimposed on a 12 pt Iveco socket. The socket was a 95 mm but scaling it to fit the nut doesn't change the shape.

168203

I don't know if Iveco is a particular configuration different from a regular 12 pt or just a name that's been stuck on large hub nuts. But it looks like that's the socket you all want, not the Ford hub nut. Part of the Spyder nut is missing or otherwise messed up because of photo editing.

Looks like the best way to find one is search for Iveco or Ford Transit 65 mm socket.

[Grandpaspeed]

The wheel nuts are aluminum so be careful putting them on.

[r1100rider]

You will need BRP socket #529036457, and a torque wrench that goes to 300 nm (221 #lbs). Plus a large external snap ring plyers.there is nothing in the tool kit or something hidden under the bodywork that comes with the bike

[Mikey]

What do you want for 10 G's:D

[cueman]

My tool kit was a screw driver handle with a reversible Philips and flat blade.:shocked: cueman

[Rogue Hawk]

https://media1.tenor.com/images/5806f282619cecf955607c5d23419d80/tenor.gif?itemid=10067003

[watertowerman]

168057 love my Valkyrie cant wait for my Rally Ryker

168298 I love my Valkyrie but can't wait to get my Ryker Rally

[watertowerman]

168299 Love my Valkyrie also and can not wait for My Ryker Rally

[watertowerman]

I purchased a 65mm socket for the Ford axle/hub nut. It appears to be the same shape as the Ryker wheel nut and it was pretty inexpensive.

1st picture is of a standard, straight edge, hex cut socket. This one will certainly NOT work on the Ryker wheel nut.

The 2nd picture is of the socket I purchased with a rounded tooth configuration very similar to the Ryker rear wheel nut. A subtle but significant difference. I'm hoping to get lucky here but I have some doubts that it will work. Still, for the price I thought it worth a shot. We will soon see. It should deliver early next week.

168088168087

Did the socket fit?

[BajaRon]

Got the socket in and it fits.... sort of. It is just a bit loose. But otherwise, it mates up well enough to use as long as you're not doing it with an impact wrench. I thought I was getting something other than a standard 65mm socket. But a standard 65mm socket is what I got. Michaelscs called it in a previous post. To me the cut appears to be rounded in the picture of the socket (on the right) which is the one I purchased. It was supposed to be a Ford Hub Nut socket. But in reality, it is a straight cut.

This is the one I got. I'm not sure they sent me what they are claiming to be selling.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CT4013-3-4-Drive-12-Point-65mm-Ford-Vehicle-Hub-Nut-Socket/123477461589?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[HongKongPhooey]

So you didn't actually get the one in the ebay link? Sorry, I'm confused.

[BajaRon]

So you didn't actually get the one in the ebay link? Sorry, I'm confused.

I assumed that a Ford Hub Nut Socket was different than a standard 65mm socket. The picture appeared to me, to be different. But since I don't actually know if there is a difference, I have no idea. Maybe someone here does know.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Got the socket in and it fits.... sort of. It is just a bit loose. But otherwise, it mates up well enough to use as long as you're not doing it with an impact wrench. I thought I was getting something other than a standard 65mm socket. But a standard 65mm socket is what I got. Michaelscs called it in a previous post. To me the cut appears to be rounded in the picture of the socket (on the right) which is the one I purchased. It was supposed to be a Ford Hub Nut socket. But in reality, it is a straight cut.

This is the one I got. I'm not sure they sent me what they are claiming to be selling.
Based on what I found w/ Google I think you got a Ford hub nut socket, meaning it is a socket for the Iveco and Ford Transit (made by Iveco??), but not for other Fords. In my pic above it looks like it is a straight cut normal type socket which I thought, based on the drawing in the parts diagrams and the photo from Smoaks video, would fit pretty good.

How about posting a clear straight on photo, with dimensions, of the Ryker hub nut?

[old Timer]

???? Why doesn't someone just go to a Ford Dealer and ask the Service Mgr to see if the official tool fits.

You all are making this too hard and complicated. Also stop your Ryker dealer and ask to see their official tool.

You all are making this way too complicated...........Ride your Ryker and give their tool a try. :banghead:

[Micnice10]

Dumb question, but an oil remover is 65mm do you think that would work??

[BajaRon]

Dumb question, but an oil remover is 65mm do you think that would work??

If you mean an oil filter remover socket, then no. No way that stamped steel socket will take 215 lb. ft. torque. You'd twist that thing off before you got half way to the correct torque.

My opinion, the 65mm straight cut socket will work just fine. It does not fit perfectly, which I assume the BRP special socket would. But it's close enough to get the job done. I need to get a bigger torque wrench. Once I have it I will give it a try and let everyone know how it goes. The worst case scenario will be it may scar up the nut. No one is going to like that, including me. And probably a deal killer.

I should amend this a bit. I have not yet actually tried using this 65mm socket on the axle nuts. I've put it on but have not attempted to turn it yet. I don't want anyone to think I am recommending this yet. Just saying it appears that it will work.

[Micnice10]

Thank you much!

[Ravent25]

I thought the hub looked about the same size as my old Bronco hub Socket, Ill will be checking through my tools now..

[Leland]

I Once I have it I will give it a try and let everyone know how it goes. The worst case scenario will be it may scar up the nut. No one is going to like that, including me. And probably a deal killer.


I have good luck using this method to protect nuts from damage:

*************************************************

Cut a circle of heavy gauge plastic, at least 3 mil thick if you can find it. A heavy duty plastic bag works great. Make sure the circular piece of plastic is at least 50% larger that the outer diameter of the socket.

Hold the plastic over the center of the nut and tap the socket onto the nut with a dead blow hammer gently.

Apply the torque to the nut in a very slow and even manner.

Once the torque has broken free, you can pull the socket off the nut while it's still attach to the axel in this case.

Use a new piece of plastic sheet stock to install the nut.

[BajaRon]

I have good luck using this method to protect nuts from damage:

*************************************************

Cut a circle of heavy gauge plastic, at least 3 mil thick if you can find it. A heavy duty plastic bag works great. Make sure the circular piece of plastic is at least 50% larger that the outer diameter of the socket.

Hold the plastic over the center of the nut and tap the socket onto the nut with a dead blow hammer very gently.

Apply the torque to the nut in a very slow and even manner.

Once the torque has broken free, you can pull the socket off the nut while it's still attach to the axel in this case.

Use a new piece of plastic sheet stock to install the nut.

Great idea! Especially considering that there is a bit of play between the 65mm straight cut socket I have and the nut. With dimensions this big, it is my experience that you do not necessarily need a perfectly fitting tool if you take a bit of care. You should not, in any case, be using a rattle gun on this wheel nut anyway. And a good torque technique is slow and steady. Which I believe should work to protect the axle nut.

I have an appropriate torque wrench on the way. My current tool would not go to the 225 lb. Ft. setting needed. When it gets here I am going to take a nut off and put it back on. I'll let you know what I find. For the price of a BRP socket, you can get a 65mm socket and decent torque wrench too.

Update: 250 lb. ft. torque wrench will be here Friday.

[Leland]

I have good luck using this method to protect nuts from damage:

*************************************************

Cut a circle of heavy gauge plastic, at least 3 mil thick if you can find it. A heavy duty plastic bag works great. Make sure the circular piece of plastic is at least 50% larger that the outer diameter of the socket.

Hold the plastic over the center of the nut and tap the socket onto the nut with a dead blow hammer gently.

Apply the torque to the nut in a very slow and even manner.

Once the torque has broken free, you can pull the socket off the nut while it's still attach to the axel in this case.

Use a new piece of plastic sheet stock to install the nut.

This method as two added benefits:

1. In this instance it holds the socket onto the nut, which is specially important if you must use an extension between the socket and the torque wrench. It holds all of the parts together during the process of torquing or un-torquing, allowing one person to accomplish the task.

2. This method does away with the need for a separate set of magnet embedded sockets. If you want to install a nut on a very hard to reach bolt or stud, say for instance inside a car door panel all you have to do is cut a circle of place out of a heavy plastic bag, place the socket on a table with the broached end up, place the plastic sheet stock on top of the socket, place the nut on top of the sheet stock and tap the nut into the socket with a dead blow hammer. The nut is retained to allow for you to start the nut in a blind location etc. One further tip. Cut the plastic sheet into a long strip instead of circle. Use one end of the strip to hold the nut and the other end allows you to hold to or retain the plastic sheet stock so it does not drop down into the car door panel in this case, or engine compartment of a car or airplanes exc.

[Leland]

How to make an improvised torque wrench for the Ryker wheel nuts.

You need:

Socket
Breaker Bar
6ft 3in Breaker bar extension tube. (plus a few inches longer) Hint: 1 inch diameter steel electrical conduit tubing works well and it is cheap.
5 gallon bucket
4.5 gallons of water

Fashion a breaker bar extension out of steel tubing plus several inches extra in length, cut a notch at the 6ft 3in mark to hold the water bucket handle. Pre-torque the nut modestly with mild force from your hand on the end of the breaker bar. Next hang the bucket containing 4.5 gallons of water on the breaker bar extension engaging the notch to hold it in place. This amount of weight will torque the nut to 225ft/lbs.

[QuasiMotard]

I have good luck using this method to protect nuts from damage:

*************************************************

Cut a circle of heavy gauge plastic, at least 3 mil thick if you can find it. A heavy duty plastic bag works great. Make sure the circular piece of plastic is at least 50% larger that the outer diameter of the socket.

Hold the plastic over the center of the nut and tap the socket onto the nut with a dead blow hammer gently.

Apply the torque to the nut in a very slow and even manner.

Once the torque has broken free, you can pull the socket off the nut while it's still attach to the axel in this case.

Use a new piece of plastic sheet stock to install the nut.

Yessir, that works. Depending on the thickness of your buffer plastic, extracting the socket from the nut/axle can be challenging, though. I've needed to resort to a padded bench vice and a gear puller once or twice before to save me from my own ingenuity. The same process works in reverse for Japanese JIS fasteners... our SAE Philips bits don't quite match and you end up "smearing" your screw heads. A bit of thick PVC bag or a piece of friction tape in the screw head helps sometimes with that, particularly with impact-tools (e.g. #3-4 Philips head in a not-quite equally sized JIS screw).

However, I'm not recommending that course of action to anyone until I have tried it on my own machine! In the Ryker's case, I might bite the proverbial bullet and let the dealer handle the wheel issues. So, if they mangle the nut, then I don't have to beat myself up over it.

--
QM

[Leland]

A heat gun on the socket will allow the socket to slide off rather easily from my experience. The plastic softens up at a rather low temp and slight tapping with a dead blow hammer on the corner of the socket very gently will allow the socket to slip free. Also apply some lubricant to the nut and in the socket before you press the two together. I've never had a problem at all using this method.

[QuasiMotard]

A heat gun on the socket will allow the socket to slide off rather easily from my experience. The plastic softens up at a rather low temp and slight tapping with a dead blow hammer on the corner of the socket very gently will allow the socket to slip free. Also apply some lubricant to the nut and in the socket before you press the two together. I've never had a problem at all using this method.

:agree:

I didn't think that far out of the box, apparently. My situation had some attached o-rings and bronze thrust washers near the focal point that may not have taken the localized heat. But for a wheel nut/axle combo like this the heat trick would be perfect. Well analyzed, sir!

--
QM

[jcthorne]

Some pics of the BRP socket from Facebook. It is assuredly a 12 point flat face socket. Not curved.
169035169036

[BajaRon]

Some pics of the BRP socket from Facebook. It is assuredly a 12 point flat face socket. Not curved.
169035169036

Interesting. If true, BRP is selling a $45.00 socket for only $160.00 plus shipping. Though I have found it at discount outlets for as little as $144.00 and free shipping.

I am feeling better all the time about the route I've taken. Soon, I will know for sure.

[RykerUSA]

No wonder that socket is so expensive, it's lined with jewels!!

[QuasiMotard]

Interesting. If true, BRP is selling a $45.00 socket for only $160.00 plus shipping....


Sheesh... What freight carrier are they using? $160 plus shipping? Maybe it's a cheap socket via the Pony Express, and we're expected to pay for feed, tack, and boarding? ;)

--
QM

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I guess everybody doubted me! :dontknow: See posts #36 & 48.

[BajaRon]

I guess everybody doubted me! :dontknow: See posts #36 & 48.

Not so much doubting you as not wanting to believe that BRP would charge $160.00 for a $45.00 tool....

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

not wanting to believe that BRP would charge $160.00 for a $45.00 tool....
Don't tell me you're one of those who likes to deny history!!!!!!! :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack:

[Tslepebull]

Interesting. If true, BRP is selling a $45.00 socket for only $160.00 plus shipping. Though I have found it at discount outlets for as little as $144.00 and free shipping.

I am feeling better all the time about the route I've taken. Soon, I will know for sure.

It may be an optical illusion but the BRP socket appears to be conical in addition to 12 sided. I have paid more for less before.

[Leland]

If BRP marks the price up high enough and adds the need for a huge torque wrench the owners will go to the dealer. You can't tell me that the marketing boys at BRP did not have a good giggle figuring that one out.

Okay, let the dogs out now. I'm ready for the hate to begin.

[gskinner]

It may be an optical illusion but the BRP socket appears to be conical in addition to 12 sided. I have paid more for less before.

I agree, it does not look exactly like a standard 12 sided socket to me either.

[Leland]

Let's slip on our critical thinking helmet. BRP could have added wheel spindles and 3 lug nuts per wheel to allow users to remove and and install their wheels and tires with a normal lug wrench and torque wrench. But instead they chose to use a special single nut with the addition of the need to use an oversized torque wrench. By going this route BRP forces the owner into a "premeditated BRP dealership visit" every time they need to do any maintenance on the bike having to do with wheels and tires.

[QuasiMotard]

It may be an optical illusion but the BRP socket appears to be conical in addition to 12 sided. I have paid more for less before.

Yep, and those faces look chevron'd or curved to me... dunno, could just be the camera shot, not sure.

--
QM

[QuasiMotard]

... BRP forces the owner into a "premeditated BRP dealership visit" every time they need to do any maintenance on the bike having to do with wheels and tires.

I wouldn't necessarily mind that... IF I could trust my dealer to do my maintenance properly. ;)

The next issue is what about flats and roadside repairs? Nope, it's up onto the flatbed for you buddy... hope your AAA membership is current!

Actually, the BRP agent that I spoke to several days ago (beginning of the gearbox oil recall debacle) mentioned that I had roadside assistance/coverage? Maybe so, but you're not gonna fix it on the side of the road unless you happen to be traveling down that road with a giant torque lever strapped to the side of your Ryker...Mad Max style... like a jouster's pole looking for an adversary... AND the giant, proprietary 65mm socket to boot!

Hey now, is that a Ryker wheel hub socket in your pocket, or are you just happy to see me? :roflblack:

--
QM

[RykerUSA]

So, is there a conclusion here regarding the correct socket and where to get one at a reasonable price?

[QuasiMotard]

168058maybe one of the Designers has an old Jaguar E ??
I love the idea of opening the front for service and the way how they fixed the wheels !!

https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-octagonal-knock-offs

:clap: :roflblack:

[QuasiMotard]

So, is there a conclusion here regarding the correct socket and where to get one at a reasonable price?

The BRP unit is linked above. Just throw that part number into your favorite search engine or parts outlet (e.g. PartZilla) to see who has the best price. At ~$140-160, "reasonable" is a relative term for sure. I'll be purchasing that one for my toolbox because I know that it will fit our fancy F1-racer-boy-wannabe wheel nuts. I don't mind having the right tool for the job, but I'd prefer not to have to lube up... personally, that is. ;)

--
QM

[jcthorne]

The faces are not curved. They are flat.

[old Timer]

Again, a stupid question...............But has anyone stopped by a Spyder dealer and looked at their official tool to see what it actually is??????

If so, I would suggest that your dealer has and is using the proper Can Am recommended tool and is not trying to get by with a standard 65 mm socket if in fact the official socket is different. Check to make sure.

[jcthorne]

The photos above ARE the BRP provided tool, complete with the part numbers stamped into it. Its a 65mm hub nut socket. Same as Ford and Iveco use.

[BajaRon]

As promised (though a bit late), I have tried the 12 point, 65mm socket I got off of eBay on the Ryker nuts. I used a larger Zip-Lock baggie to protect the nut from the socket. I am happy to say that the socket works just fine!

Here is a link to the socket I purchased from eBay. The seller is in the UK and it's the least expensive one I have found of decent quality. It is surprising that you can get one from the UK for less than a US seller. This one is about $22.65 delivered.
https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FCT4013-3-4-Drive-12-Point-65mm-Ford-Vehicle-Hub-Nut-Socket%2F123477461589%3Fepid%3D16017014177%26hash% 3Ditem1cbfd48a55%253Ag%253AK6IAAOSwZtNb5Abx%26fbcl id%3DIwAR3IT4r43S9fmaRCNUkEsiWg6Y7apC4is_vyUe99r9d irYy68unl7FsG31M&h=AT0E87YXb4nh3ilQBFk5alrmWEEM1wGHJykbspGxaSZ0iqjB bi4orQRpHqAUk7RozM8mUj_RbRuMxXTFdGLgMxmy-GjBFpxn30lhcLB6PKtm9Q05ET-n96ZZ0mJbXTVZqE561GWQNWgA3muKiQ

Here is a US based vendor for the same socket. This one is $42.65 delivered.
https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FGenius-Tools-3-4-Dr-65mm-Hand-Socket-12-Point-CR-Mo-635265%2F323148916406%3Fhash%3Ditem4b3d2d26b6%253A g%253AOGEAAOSwk2tarFWv%26fbclid%3DIwAR0hfLb2qZu20Q AvUgXCj4G4WYRiBQhp15uY7Quxj6XXWVX5q6FnJ60oEb8&h=AT0E87YXb4nh3ilQBFk5alrmWEEM1wGHJykbspGxaSZ0iqjB bi4orQRpHqAUk7RozM8mUj_RbRuMxXTFdGLgMxmy-GjBFpxn30lhcLB6PKtm9Q05ET-n96ZZ0mJbXTVZqE561GWQNWgA3muKiQ

Have fun!

[Tslepebull]

Thanks BajaRon, just ordered mine.

[RykerUSA]

What a coincidence, mine just arrived in the mail yesterday from the UK. Now I need to figure out where to secure this thing on my new Tricycle. It is rather large. Maybe zip tie and somewhere in the engine compartment out of the way.

[Highwayman2013]

They are hard to find.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Anybody seen this from Sears? https://www.sears.com/craftsman-36-mm-easy-to-read-socket-12/p-00947940000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

Wrong size! The Ryker nut is 65 mm.

[Highwayman2013]

Oops!

[Highwayman2013]

Wrong size! The Ryker nut is 65 mm. Brain fart, sorry.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Brain fart, sorry.
Understand! I don't know how many times I clicked on 36 mm sockets instead of 65 mm! :banghead:

[RykerUSA]

I received my socket from the UK. It is quite sizeable and heavy. In fact, it probly exceeds the weight capacity of the glove compartment. What's a guy to do?

[Tslepebull]

I received my socket from the UK. It is quite sizeable and heavy. In fact, it probly exceeds the weight capacity of the glove compartment. What's a guy to do?

I haven't checked for size yet but what about something like this?
https://www.aerostich.com/waterproof-tool-stash-tube.html?___SID=U

[WilliamTRyker]

I haven't checked for size yet but what about something like this?
https://www.aerostich.com/waterproof-tool-stash-tube.html?___SID=U

That looks awesome. Any idea where to mount something like this on the Ryker? Could you get the torque wrench and snap ring pliers you'd need in there too?

[cueman]

No way on the torque wrench. :lecturef_smilie: cueman

[WilliamTRyker]

No way on the torque wrench. :lecturef_smilie: cueman

Guess I'll have to carry the wrench on my back in a sling! :roflblack:

[jcthorne]

I haven't checked for size yet but what about something like this?
https://www.aerostich.com/waterproof-tool-stash-tube.html?___SID=U

The socket would never fit in that. Not even close.

[WilliamTRyker]

The socket would never fit in that. Not even close.

Is the socket as big as a camera lens? if so, would an external camera lens bag fit?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352539436110

[BajaRon]

The socket isn't going to do you any good without a 250 lb. ft. torque wrench. And many torque wrenches are not designed to remove (backwards torque). I may take it on long trips in case a wheel removal is needed. But those removing the wheel will need to supply the wrench to turn it.

I also had to get one of these since my torque wrench is 1/2" and the socket drive is 3/4".
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-3-8-1-2-3-4-in-Drive-Socket-Ratchet-Adapter-4-Sizes-Optional-US/223222131363?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=522018230290&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

[WilliamTRyker]

And many torque wrenches are not designed to remove (backwards torque).

So, are you saying that something like this won't be able to remove the wheel?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-50-250-ft-lbs-1-2-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H2DTWA/205914009

[Tslepebull]

I am planning to use a 3/4" breaker bar to remove the nut and this to torque it back. https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-4-in-Drive-Click-Torque-Wrench-50-300-ft-lb-24350/300498841?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal3_rr-_-205914009-_-300498841-_-N

[BajaRon]

So, are you saying that something like this won't be able to remove the wheel?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-50-250-ft-lbs-1-2-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H2DTWA/205914009

I am just saying you can't take for granted that your torque wrench is designed to break loose a 220 lb. ft. nut in the counter clock-wise direction. Some manufacturers will say not to turn the torque wrench with much force in the counter clock-wise direction. Some will say you can break things loose but you can't get accurate torque values in the counter clock-wise direction (which is not needed in this application). And some wrenches are specifically designed to remove and torque accurately in both directions for both left and right handed threads. These tend to be your high end wrenches.

The torque wrench you have linked here has a switch lever for reversing the ratchet. But this does not guarantee it is designed to be used to break loose a 220 lb. ft. torqued nut. You want to be sure not to use a torque wrench in any way that might disturb calibration. And you want to use the torque wrench as designed or your torque value will be inaccurate. For example. Torque values are calibrated for applying force near the center of the handle area. Applying force only at the end of the handle or using a cheater bar on a torque wrench can give you very inaccurate readings.

Torque wrenches can be very reliable tools. They just take a bit more care in use and storage than the average ratchet wrench.


I am planning to use a 3/4" breaker bar to remove the nut and this to torque it back. https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-4-in-Drive-Click-Torque-Wrench-50-300-ft-lb-24350/300498841?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal3_rr-_-205914009-_-300498841-_-N

This is exactly what I plan to do. Though I've found I will need a cheater bar on my breaker bar to make the job easier. I also need a lot of heft on my torque wrench to get to 220 lb. ft. of torque. I suggest getting the longest torque wrench you can find. Even a few inches will make a difference.

The torque wrench you have listed is 3/4" drive so it will not need the 1/2" to 3/4" adapter that mine requires for the socket.

[WilliamTRyker]

So, I was looking at this breaker bar, but do we really need 3 1/2 feet leverage to remove the nut?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Capri-Tools-3-4-in-Drive-40-in-Extended-Leverage-Breaker-Bar-CP40124/308332063

[cueman]

I can just lean on a torque wrench to get to 225# and have more in reserve. :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: cueman

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I also need a lot of heft on my torque wrench to get to 220 lb. ft. of torque. I suggest getting the longest torque wrench you can find. Even a few inches will make a difference.
Get this extender and you won't have to heft so hard to get the torque you need. http://www.freedomracing.com/head-bolt-remover-torque-adapter-am-srd35.html?___store=default&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0bPh8rDI4AIVtSCtBh2XZgDlEAYYBSAB EgJVhfD_BwE

Or, for a little more money there's this torque multiplier that triples the torque you apply! https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200623947_200623947

[BajaRon]

So, I was looking at this breaker bar, but do we really need 3 1/2 feet leverage to remove the nut?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Capri-Tools-3-4-in-Drive-40-in-Extended-Leverage-Breaker-Bar-CP40124/308332063

I would go for it. When I did my front wheel I had to have someone on the brakes. Even pushing down to get the nut broken lose the tire was turning before the nut let go without the brakes applied.

[jcthorne]

For removal, why would you not use an impact wrench? I cannot see any way to harm a nut this size during removal. Installation is another issue.

[BajaRon]

For removal, why would you not use an impact wrench? I cannot see any way to harm a nut this size during removal. Installation is another issue.

Good point. I might give that a try. It would certainly cure the rotating wheel issue. I just don't want to beat up that nut. It's part of the beauty package on the Ryker!

[jcthorne]

Ziplok freezer bags are your friend....

[BajaRon]

Ziplok freezer bags are your friend....

Yes, been there done that one. But for the guys wanting to carry this tool with them, it's going to take a long air hose or a big battery powered impact to get the job done. Millwaukee makes a 3/4" Cordless Impact Wrench Kit that delivers 1500 ft.-lb. Max. Torque for just under $900.00.

[Ram350]

On the front wheel nut removal. If you look at the back of the hub there is a slot in it and two holes in The carrier that you can put a small bar, screw driver, that will keep the wheel from turning.

[RykerUSA]

There's plenty of Room for a 65 mm socket up front - Right next to my tool pouch:roflblack:

[Leadfoot]

Got my 65 mm 12 pt socket and a big ass torque wrench.
Damn, now all I need is a tire changing machine.

[Ram350]

Don’t forget a jack

[poli]

Maybe a dumb question but...for those of you that have removed/tightened your wheel nuts, are the nuts left or right handed thread? Thanks in advance.

[gskinner]

Right hand thread.

[srx660]

Any socket with the rounded tips may not work on the Ryker. I bought this socket for $44 with shipping included. Notice the squared tips to the teeth in the socket. The rounded tips may work but i thing this one fits better. just my opinion.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/Wkpl5e.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poWkpl5ej)

[Nico75]

Hi all just an addition to tools for Ryker wheel removal. 1/2 inch small extension so it will clear rear wheel spokes when using 300nm toque wrench. Hopefully carried by brake down regards Nico 75

[oregoncoast]

I was happy to see this post about the tools. I have done all my own auto work since I was 15. Bought the tools, read the books. I like doing the work and if something is not right I have only myself to blame. I was wondering what socket was needed to get that wheel nut off. I will buy the socket and 3/4 inch torque wrench. It is hard to keep the wheels clean and I have thought about taking them off every so often to do clean.
Thanks for the particulars on the socket size. Plus the fact it is a 2 1/2 hour drive to the closest dealer.....

[McRuss]

Got my 65mm socket from the UK today, found a baggie in the kitchen. So I went out to my shop; nope, no Rally there yet! Dang, three more weeks. I have my CalSci windscreen, my top box and my wheel nut socket so I'm obviously ready.

[Tslepebull]

Got my 65mm socket from the UK today, found a baggie in the kitchen. So I went out to my shop; nope, no Rally there yet! Dang, three more weeks. I have my CalSci windscreen, my top box and my wheel nut socket so I'm obviously ready.

Dang, that's like having chocolate sauce and sprinkles but no ice cream.:gaah:

[McRuss]

Dang, that's like having chocolate sauce and sprinkles but no ice cream.:gaah:

It's worse! If it was just chocolate sauce and sprinkles, I could put that on toast!

[FBRKR]

Here's another option:
https://www.racingpowersports.com/racingpowersports-can-am-ryker-600-900-rally-wheel-nut-removal-tool-529036457.html