Oil Plug head broke off on 1330 F3.

[Sarge707]

Using a torque wrench when I know I should have just Tightened By FEEL like I usually do and the head of the right side Magnet bolt 6mm broke off- Filled with the 4 then 4 1/2 then 5 quarts during timed oil check and No Leak while warm but when cool it is a very slow leak into container. I know the 1 quart in there will slowly leak but wanted the New oil circulated.
Whats the preferred (Easiest ) way to back out the threaded part- It did NOT strip - It just snapped off? Luckily my Ryker should be here in a month .
Dealer said- Punch it - drill hole- then reverse drill to extract. Last time I used a torque wrench was on my 09GS and same thing happened- Since then hand tightening by Feel worker perfect- I don't believe I fell for the same mistake again. NO threads on the head.

Any advice for easiest way to extract because it did not strip.

[UtahPete]

The head of the right side Magnet bolt 6mm broke off- Whats the preferred (Easiest ) way to back out the threaded part- It did NOT strip - It just snapped off? Dealer said- Punch it - drill hole- then reverse drill to extract. NO threads on the head. Any advice for easiest way to extract because it did not strip.

Since there is nothing to grab hold of, you'll have to drill it and use a bolt extractor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K34RS6M11uw

[JayBros]

Can you see or, better, take a picture of the broken plug in its hole? Don't know if you can drill into the magnet to use a small Easy Out or if there is material you can tap a small cold chisel into twist it out. It should come out fairly easily except for any drag the sheared plug thread may have on the hole threads.

[trikermutha]

Use a extractor and take your time. There are several different version of a extractor out there.

[PMK]

That is a bummer.

Before going to power tools, carefully try a fresh screwdriver in an attempt to simply unscrew the remnants. Work carefully and cautiously so as not to nick a thread and impede progress.

As for the methods involving an easy out or simply drilling, you better be absolutely certain to use a left hand drill bit. If you use a conventional right hand twist drill, you risk the possibility of the drill catching the broken drain plug and winding it into the gearbox. Once inside it will likely stick to something steel and require a teardown in some fashion.

If possible, make a drill bushing / guide, to ensure you do not drill into the exposed threads or sideways, damaging the case.

One of the locals here had the same thing happen, he explained how with time and patience, he was able to unwind the broken drain plug with a screwdriver and maybe a scribe when needed.

[Sarge707]

Thanks ,I'm going to go VERY slow- First is pump the tires up for winter storage and get the wheels all on a couple 2x8s so I can see what I'm doing then jack the right side up a few more inches to work from my back. Might be able to get a little notch in the plug with the dremel to use a screwdriver? Next 10 days to cold to lay on a garage floor. I only had the big torque wrench to use my 36mm socket to Just loosen the oil filter and I should have put it back after that- I'm still kicking myself but when I think of peoples houses burning in California I remind myself to count my blessings?

[PMK]

Thanks ,I'm going to go VERY slow- First is pump the tires up for winter storage and get the wheels all on a couple 2x8s so I can see what I'm doing then jack the right side up a few more inches to work from my back. Might be able to get a little notch in the plug with the dremel to use a screwdriver? Next 10 days to cold to lay on a garage floor. I only had the big torque wrench to use my 36mm socket to Just loosen the oil filter and I should have put it back after that- I'm still kicking myself but when I think of peoples houses burning in California I remind myself to count my blessings?

Do not overthink it. Leave the Dremel in the toolbox until it is certainly needed. If the screwdriver blade has a good sharp edge from being near new, it might grab a burr and simply screw out. If it were me, cold or not, lay cardboard and a blanket on the floor and without even jacking it up, give it a shot. Go steal you wifes makeup mirror to let you see, but do not screw it in, only out, especially using the mirror.

[AeroPilot]

Slow and steady wins the race... This video has some things to think about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJfkCj3FWBs

A good light/mirror and having the front wheels up on car ramps might give you enough room to see and work more comfortably.

[donhy]

I had a similar issue on my 991 the torque specs seems a bit off on the service manual, i have a high end torque wrench that is calibrated properly. So now i just go by the feel. Take your time an extractor should do the job

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I would not run your Spyder with that plug piece in there ………. the piece will VARNISH from heat cycles and make it 3X's as difficult to remove. You could probably get a punch in there and Tap that a few times with a Hammer to break the Varnish seal, but the Varnish will make it harder to remove the plug piece...……..good luck, Mike :thumbup:

[jlc41]

Good advice, don't over think it. Try to unscrew it if possible if not left hand drill, you may get lucky and it unscrews as you drill, if not use an easy out should not be a problem. Good luck nice and easy gets it.
Joe

[Sarge707]

Slow and steady wins the race... This video has some things to think about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJfkCj3FWBs

A good light/mirror and having the front wheels up on car ramps might give you enough room to see and work more comfortably.
Thanks for this excellent video! If I can't coax it out the Non-Powered way I would buy and use his Hinge Guide Sighting way with a reverse drill because I would be sure its not going to ruin the case threads. If it does not free I won't drill the hole to far in and then use the appropriate size extractor. I never heard of this drill guide/centering thing before and it seems to be a Great method for this if Non powered ways fail. Video covers ALL types of situations!!!

[ARtraveler]

All good advice. And very, very, scary for me. You folks are great. :bowdown::bowdown:

[dondje]

If the screwdriver doesn't work. Clean plug and hex "L" wrench well with brake cleaner. Glue hex to plug with high strength/tech glue. Putty form of glue will not drip. Be extra careful not to get glue on case.

Good luck!

BTW: I was thinking about putting magnetic plug in. However, there are MANY post on this site about them breaking. Usually when trying to remove though.

Regards,

Don

[Sarge707]

Do not overthink it. Leave the Dremel in the toolbox until it is certainly needed. If the screwdriver blade has a good sharp edge from being near new, it might grab a burr and simply screw out. If it were me, cold or not, lay cardboard and a blanket on the floor and without even jacking it up, give it a shot. Go steal you wifes makeup mirror to let you see, but do not screw it in, only out, especially using the mirror.

You were right, with snow a few hours away I went out and tapped it with a screwdriver a few times and then tried to turn with a screwdriver on a rough edge and viola it came out very easy and the threads and mounting surface are like new!!! Looked up the part # to order and No 1330 listed has the Part # available? I called my dealer and he had One in stock so I can now fix it tomorrow and I will measure the oil that leaked in the container below it and add and then do another oil level check test. I will hand tighten and then do the extra 1/4 turn this time.
Could it be they make this part sacrificial ( Like the sprocket VS Output shaft) because if were very hard metal the threads would probably be affected if over torqued? Just a thought?
I was lucky and want to Thank everyone for the constructive comments and videos because I sure learned some good methods if it were worse!!!
I have learned you can Always count on Spyder lovers to help with a problem!!!

[PMK]

You were right, with snow a few hours away I went out and tapped it with a screwdriver a few times and then tried to turn with a screwdriver on a rough edge and viola it came out very easy and the threads and mounting surface are like new!!! Looked up the part # to order and No 1330 listed has the Part # available? I called my dealer and he had One in stock so I can now fix it tomorrow and I will measure the oil that leaked in the container below it and add and then do another oil level check test. I will hand tighten and then do the extra 1/4 turn this time.
Could it be they make this part sacrificial ( Like the sprocket VS Output shaft) because if were very hard metal the threads would probably be affected if over torqued? Just a thought?
I was lucky and want to Thank everyone for the constructive comments and videos because I sure learned some good methods if it were worse!!!
I have learned you can Always count on Spyder lovers to help with a problem!!!

I highly doubt drain plugs are the sacraficial component.

Regardless glad to read it easily was removed.

[KX5062]

I highly doubt drain plugs are the sacraficial component.

Regardless glad to read it easily was removed.


I agree. The steel used in the drain plugs is overly mild whatever flavor they use. If I had to guess, I'd say it was typical cheap Chinese junk BRP is purchasing from a vendor.

[BajaRon]

You were right, with snow a few hours away I went out and tapped it with a screwdriver a few times and then tried to turn with a screwdriver on a rough edge and viola it came out very easy and the threads and mounting surface are like new!!! Looked up the part # to order and No 1330 listed has the Part # available? I called my dealer and he had One in stock so I can now fix it tomorrow and I will measure the oil that leaked in the container below it and add and then do another oil level check test. I will hand tighten and then do the extra 1/4 turn this time.
Could it be they make this part sacrificial ( Like the sprocket VS Output shaft) because if were very hard metal the threads would probably be affected if over torqued? Just a thought?
I was lucky and want to Thank everyone for the constructive comments and videos because I sure learned some good methods if it were worse!!!
I have learned you can Always count on Spyder lovers to help with a problem!!!

I never use a torque wrench on a drain plug. Just design for disaster. They do not need to be all that tight. Just hand snug with a 3/8" drive ratchet is plenty. They will get tighter as they go through heat cycles. That is why your drain plug is always tighter when you take it off than when you installed it. It won't fall out and it won't leak. Which is, I know, what people are concerned about.

If the OEM drain plug is that weak I'd consider one of the aftermarket products. Though it could be just a quality control issue and you got a bad one. I've not heard of anyone else twisting a head off like this. But maybe I just missed that memo!

Certainly great news that the fix was so easy. I am very glad that it worked out as well as it did. Usually you will strip threads long before the head twists off.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I never use a torque wrench on a drain plug. Just design for disaster. They do not need to be all that tight. Just hand snug with a 3/8" drive ratchet is plenty. They will get tighter as they go through heat cycles. That is why your drain plug is always tighter when you take it off than when you installed it. It won't fall out and it won't leak. Which is, I know, what people are concerned about.

If the OEM drain plug is that weak I'd consider one of the aftermarket products. Though it could be just a quality control issue and you got a bad one. I've not heard of anyone else twisting a head off like this. But maybe I just missed that memo!

Certainly great news that the fix was so easy. I am very glad that it worked out as well as it did. Usually you will strip threads long before the head twists off.

Ron by " tighter " are you referring to the " varnish " that forms on the threads from the oil ????? …… if so I always give the socket I'm using ( to remove ) a solid rap with a hammer first ….. it usually makes removal easier ….. Mike :thumbup:

[strykerAKAmack]

If you have access to mig welder tack a 3/8 nut right on and then back it right out .
Way easier than the drill and try to back out method .

[Ojonesy]

Hi guys, I have just done my first oil change and found this post to be very interesting. I didn't have a torque wrench, so hand tightened by feel was the method. My concern is the method by which Can Am have adopted for removal and reinstalling the oil drain plugs. I am a mechanically minded type person and my experienced with fittings that use allen key or torx arrangements for unscrewing/screwing the fitting tend to be wear and the tool loses its ability to grip the fitting. This oil change was the first time I have done since the dealers warranty service, the main oil drain plug does have a larger torx arrangement whereby the torx tool does have some material to be positively located and grip the plug, but I am nervous in regard to the reliability long term of this arrangement. The clutch drain plug uses a smaller torx tool and I was uneasy when I was trying to remove this plug as it felt it was about to fail. However with a couple of short sharp taps with a hammer onto the end of the torx tool, the plug finally undone. I cannot understand why Can Am have persisted with this arrangement, most other manufactures use the conventional hexagon head whereby the reliable standard socket can be used for its removal/reinstalling. (and on the rare occasion where the hex head becomes rounded, you still have the metal to work with to remove it) The size of the torx tool to remove the drain plugs are in my opinion too small in relation to the size and force that I have experienced to remove and reinstall these plugs, the sealing head of the drain plugs are not very thick, and particularly with the clutch drain plug, the torx inset goes into the main body of the plug so it does not surprise me that the head had sheared off. I had thought about replacing them with conventional plugs but unfortunately Can Am have come up with an internal O-ring sealing arrangement for the main drain plug (I guess one could machine one up) and the clutch plug has the magnet attached. Moving forward, I will be looking at least of purchasing a spare set of plugs and ensure that my torx tools are in pristine condition, wondering if there is any aftermarket plugs that would do the job.
To Finish, I love my RT 1330, but would have to say that Can Am need to think about how does one work on these machines. Just to do a standard oil change, you have to strip halve the bike down to get access. Hate to think what you have to do if eg. one developed an oil leak around the rocker cover.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hi guys, I have just done my first oil change and found this post to be very interesting. I didn't have a torque wrench, so hand tightened by feel was the method. My concern is the method by which Can Am have adopted for removal and reinstalling the oil drain plugs. I am a mechanically minded type person and my experienced with fittings that use allen key or torx arrangements for unscrewing/screwing the fitting tend to be wear and the tool loses its ability to grip the fitting. This oil change was the first time I have done since the dealers warranty service, the main oil drain plug does have a larger torx arrangement whereby the torx tool does have some material to be positively located and grip the plug, but I am nervous in regard to the reliability long term of this arrangement. The clutch drain plug uses a smaller torx tool and I was uneasy when I was trying to remove this plug as it felt it was about to fail. However with a couple of short sharp taps with a hammer onto the end of the torx tool, the plug finally undone. I cannot understand why Can Am have persisted with this arrangement, most other manufactures use the conventional hexagon head whereby the reliable standard socket can be used for its removal/reinstalling. (and on the rare occasion where the hex head becomes rounded, you still have the metal to work with to remove it) The size of the torx tool to remove the drain plugs are in my opinion too small in relation to the size and force that I have experienced to remove and reinstall these plugs, the sealing head of the drain plugs are not very thick, and particularly with the clutch drain plug, the torx inset goes into the main body of the plug so it does not surprise me that the head had sheared off. I had thought about replacing them with conventional plugs but unfortunately Can Am have come up with an internal O-ring sealing arrangement for the main drain plug (I guess one could machine one up) and the clutch plug has the magnet attached. Moving forward, I will be looking at least of purchasing a spare set of plugs and ensure that my torx tools are in pristine condition, wondering if there is any aftermarket plugs that would do the job.
To Finish, I love my RT 1330, but would have to say that Can Am need to think about how does one work on these machines. Just to do a standard oil change, you have to strip halve the bike down to get access. Hate to think what you have to do if eg. one developed an oil leak around the rocker cover.

:agree: ………… Look at VALUE ACCESSORIES on the home page - I think they have the best prices on the better Style drain plugs ….. I use the GOLD brand , and I only changed the TORX plug ….the HEX plug has never been an issue …………..PS - maybe you know this , after you put the socket on the drain plug give a couple of solid Taps with a hammer - this will break the Varnish seal that gets formed over time due to heat cycles ….. Good luck …. Mike :thumbup:

[jcthorne]

The plug on the clutch side is Allen hex, not torx. The one on the engine side is Torx.

[Lew L]

OEM's often use the cheapest, lowest strength/quality fasteners due to trying to keep costs low. These fasteners are often made of " cheese " like the tool kits on Honda's of the 60's. When I bought general fasteners for my shop classes I went with Grade 5 nuts and bolts as general use fasteners ----no lower grade ( Grade 3 with no marking on the bolt head). Sure it cost a bit more but as I did a lot of repair for the school, there just can't be fastener failures.
Lew L

[Ojonesy]

Hello JCTHORNE, That's very interesting about the clutch drain plug because initially I thought the same thing. Having tried my allen keys and not finding one that felt good and seeing that the main oil plug was torx, I tried them and found one that fitted, but as I said in my previous post, I was not comfortable with it. If what you are saying is correct, I suspect the dealer had issues last time they did the service and possibly rounded off the allen key profile in the plug and then tried a torx tool to do the job. As BlueKnight911 said, a quick sharp tap with the hammer can break the seal and release the grip on the plug, this is exactly what I did, and if the clutch plug was originally an allen key type and had been rounded, the torx tool may have been able to slide in and with me giving it a tap, may have driven it in firmer so that I was able to undo it. Certainly now I will have a closer inspection and if proven correct, will be ordering a new one. Will also check out Value accessories too.

[Ojonesy]

I have opted to buy an accessory magnetic drain plug, found a few here online in new Zealand, however when it arrived, it had a thread length of 18mm as compared to 12mm length of the original. Didn't think that would be an issue, however did check to make sure there was clearance in the sump because you also have to allow for the length of the magnet. The overall length was 25-26mm and there was just enough room, but CanAm decided to provide around 15mm of thread in the sump casing which meant that the new plug bottomed out in the thread before seating. Done some more research and found another plug with 12mm length of thread, so this is due to arrive and this should do the job. So the thing here to be aware of, if you do intend to change the clutch side drain plug to a conventional hex head type, be sure that the thread length is no longer than 12mm. the magnet protrudes another 5 - 10mm, that's fine as the original is much the same. The main drain plug requires a torx type tool to remove the M14 x 1.5 thread plug and conversion to the conventional hex head is not so easy as this plug has a shaft of aprox 30 - 40mm extension beyond the thread with two O-rings positioned on the shaft. Not sure on the purpose of these O-rings, however my plan is to eventually machine a bolt to suit. The only saving grace is that the torx tool is reasonably large and therefore does grip the plug reasonably well, but over time I believe it will become loose and eventually burr and round off.

[jaherbst]

Righty Tighty lefty Lucy

Jackq:joke:

[Nobodyjj]

Great you got itout. A center punch on the edge would have done it also. Small taps and out she would come enough to grab with vise grips. Lots of over thinking going on here!