shifting

[poppajim]

When shifting on the automatics do most go by sound or use rpm,s. Just bought a 2014 STS for my wife and its her first bike ever. I myself go by sound when I test rode it but was just curious.

[billybovine]

Start out by shifting by rpm. Then as you get used to it you will change to how it sounds. Upshift at about 5,000 or higher. Never cruize in 5th gear below 4200. It will downshift for you if you are busy or lazy. But if you don't come to a stop. Downshift manually before twisting the grip. Hold the throttle in a steady position during shifts. The computer will handle the rpm thing.

[PaladinLV]

Starting with a 59 Rambler and up thru today, regardless of car or bike, I have always shifted by sound.

AJ

When shifting on the automatics do most go by sound or use rpm,s. Just bought a 2014 STS for my wife and its her first bike ever. I myself go by sound when I test rode it but was just curious.

[Chupaca]

Billybovine
:agree: also remember not to ease off the gas when shifting. Stay on the gas and hit the paddle....:thumbup:

[jtonga]

I have heard a lot of people saying to hold it steady while shifting but I find that shifting while accelerating is much smoother. I still shift at higher rpm's (5,500 +/-), but do so while accelerating. IDK... I could be doing this shifting thing all wrong but let me tell ya, it shifts like butter :thumbup:

[ARtraveler]

RE Shifting:

The two cylinders like to be shifted in the 5500 rpm range. The engine "comes alive" at that point.

The three cylinders like to be shifted in the 3500 rpm range.

I know the sound for each of mine and usually shift by ear.

I leave the downshifts to the :ani29: unless I feel the need to punch it for more power.

Your :spyder2: should be in the "ballpark" but you need to find your "sweet" spot.

And regardless of engine--no need to "roll off" when putting it into a higher gear.

[SpyderAnn01]

Starting with a 59 Rambler and up thru today, regardless of car or bike, I have always shifted by sound.

AJ

AJ, it is a good thing that you have a 1330 because if you were shifting a 998 by sound you’d be lugging it and making costly clutch repairs.

[Bfromla]

Some have suggested beginners keep it in trailer mode for better shifting points:dontknow: I know it took me some time to get use to the higher RPMS :lecturef_smilie:

[Bob Denman]

The 1330s are so un-fussy, that it doesn't matter when you shift them. As long as the computer will allow the shift to occur: go for it! :thumbup:
(I shifted by sound)

[Buckeye Bleau]

I have heard a lot of people saying to hold it steady while shifting but I find that shifting while accelerating is much smoother. I still shift at higher rpm's (5,500 +/-), but do so while accelerating. IDK... I could be doing this shifting thing all wrong but let me tell ya, it shifts like butter :thumbup:


:agree:

Joe

[Trbayth]

I try to shift by sound but sometimes I have trouble hearing the engine so I'll peek at the tach. I shift between 5500 and 6000. I usually downshift manually to 2nd but then let the computer do the 2 - 1 downshift.

[Easy Rider]

When shifting on the automatics do most go by sound or use rpm,s. Just bought a 2014 STS for my wife and its her first bike ever. I myself go by sound when I test rode it but was just curious.

Doesn't matter.
Do whatever feels right FOR YOU.

[teninospyder]

Start out by shifting by rpm. Then as you get used to it you will change to how it sounds. Upshift at about 5,000 or higher. Never cruize in 5th gear below 4200. It will downshift for you if you are busy or lazy. But if you don't come to a stop. Downshift manually before twisting the grip. Hold the throttle in a steady position during shifts. The computer will handle the rpm thing.

Billy, I usually run in the 3000-3500 range, regardless of gear. Why do you recommend the highlighted above?

[Lew L]

Hi Ray,

I think the person you quoted was referring to the 998 V-twin motor.

I downshift more for the situation. I want to be in a gear that will allow "brisk" acceleration with out down shifting. Old motorcycle habits die hard.

Lew L

[AY4B]

The 2014 998 twin really likes the high RPM's. Dont be shy and keep it high! The Power band is much better up above 5G's

[Easy Rider]

The 2014 998 twin really likes the high RPM's. Dont be shy and keep it high! The Power band is much better up above 5G's

Desirable for some riders but not really necessary for a pleasurable ride. :thumbup:

[teninospyder]

The 2014 998 twin really likes the high RPM's. Dont be shy and keep it high! The Power band is much better up above 5G's

If Billy meant the 998...…..I have the 1330 engine.

[Culpjp]

I shift my 998 in the 6000 - 6500 range. It shifts smoother at that range, than if I shift at a lower RPM.

[Bob Denman]

If Billy meant the 998...…..I have the 1330 engine.

He did; that advice is best applied to the 998s. It'll keep you from toasting the engagement clutch on those models.

SE-equipped V-Twins have a centrifugally-engaged clutch
The triples have one that is hydraulically engaged.

[stevencovert]

:agree:

Joe

Yes about 5K to 6K, throttle steady. I read here somewhere you never want to be below 4K RPM? Something about the clutch is fully engaged around 3800 or so? It does take some getting used to between the 1330 and the 998! We have both and it freaks the wife out on the 998 revving so high.

[billybovine]

Yes about 5K to 6K, throttle steady. I read here somewhere you never want to be below 4K RPM? Something about the clutch is fully engaged around 3800 or so? It does take some getting used to between the 1330 and the 998! We have both and it freaks the wife out on the 998 revving so high.

The whole clutch engagement minimum rpm for SE5 models has been sliced and diced. But still the common concept the low rpm can prematurely destroy the clutch is true in fact, but extremely exaggerated to the point of being a lie. The clutch published stall speed is 3200 +/- 200 rpm. So as long you keep the rpm above 3400 rpm. There will be no premature wear on the clutch. Also the lower the gear you are operating in will reduce the load on the clutch. So driving in 1st gear at 2500 rpm for a short period of time. Like a city block. Is not going hurt anything. The problem that BRP found out in the early days was that folks where driving down the road at 2500 to 3200 rpm. In 5th gear. Into headwinds and up hills. Burning out the clutch in the process. Clutches are not covered under warranty. But BRP would replace a clutch under goodwill. Only if the rpm profile showed that the Spyder was not operate at a significant time under 4000 rpm. If it was tough luck. The reason you drive with a minimum of 4200 in 5th gear. Is because of the engine power profile. So it does not matter whether it's a SE5 or SM5. The engine just runs better there for the load it is under. 4th gear lower load 4000 min. 3rd 3800, 2nd 3600. That is for flat road with little headwind. Steeper the hill or stronger the wind. Up the rpm accordingly. But as long as you are over 3400 with an SE5 don't worry about the clutch.

[Big F]

The 2014 998 twin really likes the high RPM's. Dont be shy and keep it high! The Power band is much better up above 5G's

didn't know them made the twins in 2014???? I thought that was the year BRP went to 3 cylinders??
BIG F

[Trbayth]

didn't know them made the twins in 2014???? I thought that was the year BRP went to 3 cylinders??
BIG F

2014 3 cylinder was the RT only. RS and ST still had the twin and did right up to the end of their production. In 2015 the F3 came along and got the 3 cylinder too.

[ARtraveler]

didn't know them made the twins in 2014???? I thought that was the year BRP went to 3 cylinders??
BIG F

They were still making RS, ST, models. When the F3 came out, the RS and ST went away. They will correct me if I am wrong. :thumbup:

[dsteve931]

They were still making RS, ST, models. When the F3 came out, the RS and ST went away. They will correct me if I am wrong. :thumbup:
i have a 2015 st 998. i run in trailer mode- it downshifs at the correct rpms 3500 , and i dont have to down shift.

[rocketman74]

Relatively new Spyder owner, but I have about 600 miles on mine so far and just started getting a little more aggressive on my RPM when shifting following a about 500 miles of "taking it easy" to break it in.

I go by sound as well - as I rode two wheels for years before my Spyder - but find myself usually shifting up around 4,500-5,000 - sometimes slightly higher.

It depends on the situation and whether I'm going up hills and such. I am pretty cognizant about the low end of RPMS, and also manually downshift occasionally to get to a lower gear with higher RPMs.

[662SpyderRyder]

I’ve had my 2018 F3-S for 1 week as of tomorrow and in just putting around town and getting comfortable going 55-60, I shift based on sound, but mainly just feel. Much like a manual car. If I’m going too slow for the gear I’m in, I can feel it and I downshift. I mean you know, you can feel when you need a little more juice.
In fact, I have since changed my digital gauge to read the temp instead of the rpms.

[Rick H.]

Not to kick a dead horse, but does anyone notice a "hesitation" or something like a flutter shift when you upshift your trans? The reason I ask is that I just went on a second test ride of two different RT Limited's. I noticed on both of them that when I upshift there is a hesitation, for lack of a better term, in between gears. I noticed it on the first one and went back and rode another one and it did the same thing. Is this hesitation present on all Spyder RT's? I was not typically babying the machines, but I wasn't going near 5000 RPM either as they both had 0 miles on them when I rode them. Thanks for any help or information on this, it IS a deal breaker for me if this is typical because when I shift I don't like any hesitation from the transmission.

Rick H.

[jlc41]

Rick H., (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/member.php?15795-Rick-H) I have a 2018 F3L and don't have that feeling, could it be your letting up on the throttle when shifting???

Joe

[Rick H.]

Rick H., (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/member.php?15795-Rick-H) I have a 2018 F3L and don't have that feeling, could it be your letting up on the throttle when shifting???

Joe

It could be Joe, but I tried hard NOT to let off the throttle when shifting on my two test rides. In all fairness I currently own a 2018 BMW K1600 with Shift Assist Pro and there of course is no lag, or hesitation, in that bike when you shift it. So perhaps I am comparing apples to oranges. I even went as far as watching some You Tube videos of a guy out in Washington State who posts a lot of Spyder videos and I honestly can't even tell when he is shifting his Spyder. Perhaps it's my technique when shifting, but it drives me crazy. Thanks for the reply though.

Rick H.

[Triple B]

Can’t compare apples to apples, but I have a 2014 RTS-SE6, not an RT L, and when out today, I paid particular attention to mine while shifting and no, there is absolutely no hesitation when shifting....when I touch the shift lever the transmission immediately shifts.

[Rick H.]

Can’t compare apples to apples, but I have a 2014 RTS-SE6, not an RT L, and when out today, I paid particular attention to mine while shifting and no, there is absolutely no hesitation when shifting....when I touch the shift lever the transmission immediately shifts.

Thanks Triple B. Maybe it's me.....:(

Rick H.

[always young]

I've got a 2016 F3 Ltd and it will do this sometimes under certain shifting loads. If you accelerate moderately (light throttle) to around 3000 RPM it will hessitate shifting to second. If you accelerate under a more spirited load to about 4000 RPM or more it's quick and solid. Seems to be a light load situation. Be a runner and it will always shift solid.