PDA

View Full Version : Rear shock, airbag etc



prmurat
07-08-2018, 02:00 PM
Just back from a 3900 miles ride and after hearing the air compressor almost always on I knew problems were coming.... fast! The compressor finally died and I had to use my hand held compressor for about 2000 miles: after a couple of days the airbag was empty 5 miles after inflation! So I rode on the shock, stock, alone for most of the time. I have the feeling the shock is gone now!! Dealer in a couple of weeks and I am wondering if I should buy an aftermarket shock or let the dealer install a new stock one?? Does the air compressor works with an Elka stage 2?? Any other choice? I kind of like the idea of keeping the compressor...
thks!!

UtahPete
07-08-2018, 02:22 PM
Just back from a 3900 miles ride and after hearing the air compressor almost always on I knew problems were coming.... fast! The compressor finally died and I had to use my hand held compressor for about 2000 miles: after a couple of days the airbag was empty 5 miles after inflation! So I rode on the shock, stock, alone for most of the time. I have the feeling the shock is gone now!! Dealer in a couple of weeks and I am wondering if I should buy an aftermarket shock or let the dealer install a new stock one?? Does the air compressor works with an Elka stage 2?? Any other choice? I kind of like the idea of keeping the compressor...thks!!
I'm following this with interest. Never had a problem so far with either of my 2014RT ACS system, but it's probably just a matter of time.

UtahPete
07-08-2018, 02:43 PM
Phillippe, yours is a 2014 RTS with about 25k miles, as I recall?

UtahPete
07-08-2018, 05:12 PM
There's a related discussion going on right now over at http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?106357-ACS-Rebuild

DGoebel
07-08-2018, 05:18 PM
I just got back from a 4,800 mile trip on my '13 RTL. On the second to last day, 1,000 miles from home, on a Sunday, we determined our Air bag was leaking down quickly. I also had no fog lights, heated hand grips(didn't really notice that), and no horn, and the ACS compressor wasn't working (That turned out to be a blown 20 amp load Shedding fuse). Before we corrected the blow fuse, we were topping our air bag off every 100 miles with the cordless air pump that Lamonster sold. That helped. Today I discovered that my issue was a leakdown through the compressor check valve as it comes out of the compressor and feeds the air bag. We cleaned the check valve and the system has been holding air for over an hour now.
It's possible that check valve part ($27.00 for a new one) is just stuck open if the fuse is blown as well.

Phillip, does your horn work? If your horn is "dead" then it's probably the yellow 20 amp fuse in the right side (left as you're looking at it) fuse box. If that fuse is blown and you replace it, your compressor may work again.

prmurat
07-08-2018, 06:12 PM
There's a related discussion going on right now over at http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?106357-ACS-Rebuild

Thks Pete. Yes my RT is a 2014 with around 27500 miles on it 😉😉. Thks for the late link!

Horn and fuse are perfect. If I was courageous i’ll start checking the valves etc. but the fact that I cannot get the pressure over 30psi (could go to 45 when the problem started) makes me think of an airbag problem and then death of the compressor.
so no one can answer the question re the shock absorber??

UtahPete
07-08-2018, 06:24 PM
Thks Pete. Yes my RT is a 2014 with around 27500 miles on it ����. Thks for the late link! Horn and fuse are perfect. If I was courageous i’ll start checking the valves etc. but the fact that I cannot get the pressure over 30psi (could go to 45 when the problem started) makes me think of an airbag problem and then death of the compressor.

so no one can answer the question re the shock absorber??

"I have the feeling the shock is gone now!! Dealer in a couple of weeks and I am wondering if I should buy an aftermarket shock or let the dealer install a new stock one?? Does the air compressor works with an Elka stage 2?? Any other choice? I kind of like the idea of keeping the compressor..."

DGoebel
07-08-2018, 06:44 PM
Others have posted positive results replacing the factory rear shock with aftermarket Elka's, Fox, and EMS (or is it EMC) rear shocks retaining the Airbag and compressor system.
I'll try to find the saved threads as I've asked and researched the same issue, though mine turned out to just be a fixable check valve.
Several folks have posted threads in the past replacing the stock compressor (when it's failed out of warranty) with a VLAIR 97 model.
It does sound like your compressor died if the fuse is good.

UtahPete
07-08-2018, 07:58 PM
Bump

Peteoz
07-09-2018, 02:20 AM
So I rode on the shock, stock, alone for most of the time. I have the feeling the shock is gone now!! Dealer in a couple of weeks and I am wondering if I should buy an aftermarket shock or let the dealer install a new stock one?? Does the air compressor works with an Elka stage 2?? Any other choice? I kind of like the idea of keeping the compressor...
thks!!

Phillippe, I may have misread your post, and apologies if I have, but it sounds like you are of the belief that the airbag and the shock are a single unit. They are independent. The airbag and compressor are effectively just used to raise and lower the height of your seat. They sit above the shock. You can swap out your stock shock for an Elka, Wilbers etc, and not touch the airbag, and vice versa. I am currently running my airbag at 0psi just to see how my stage 2 Wilber shock performs.

Pete

UtahPete
07-09-2018, 10:29 AM
Phillippe, I may have misread your post, and apologies if I have, but it sounds like you are of the belief that the airbag and the shock are a single unit. They are independent. The airbag and compressor are effectively just used to raise and lower the height of your seat. They sit above the shock. You can swap out your stock shock for an Elka, Wilbers etc, and not touch the airbag, and vice versa. I am currently running my airbag at 0psi just to see how my stage 2 Wilber shock performs.Pete
Good points, Pete.

prmurat
07-09-2018, 10:39 AM
Phillippe, I may have misread your post, and apologies if I have, but it sounds like you are of the belief that the airbag and the shock are a single unit. They are independent. The airbag and compressor are effectively just used to raise and lower the height of your seat. They sit above the shock. You can swap out your stock shock for an Elka, Wilbers etc, and not touch the airbag, and vice versa. I am currently running my airbag at 0psi just to see how my stage 2 Wilber shock performs.

Pete

Thks Pete for your answer, exactly what I needed! The use of the airbag is confusing as it lower/raise the bike but at the same time brings some “cushioning” to the suspension. I will go for the Elka or others!
(still dreaming of a 3WD Spyder, Subaru flat 4 (or 6!!) with a Citroen Oleopneumatic suspension... Adventure type!!).

Fatcycledaddy
07-09-2018, 11:06 AM
Remember that when the compressor fails and you air up the bag manually, the height adjust will let air out automatically every time you come to a stop and the back raises a little, the passenger gets off the bike, anything that will cause the back end to rise a little.

If you disconnect the dump solenoid the air will stay in, unless you have a leak somewhere.

teninospyder
07-10-2018, 08:32 AM
Remember that when the compressor fails and you air up the bag manually, the height adjust will let air out automatically every time you come to a stop and the back raises a little, the passenger gets off the bike, anything that will cause the back end to rise a little.

If you disconnect the dump solenoid the air will stay in, unless you have a leak somewhere.

I probably missed this somewhere and I sincerely apologize if I did. In looking at the parts diagrams.....Can you see and disconnect this solenoid WITHOUT pulling the RT side panels off an RTL? I posted a question about "what if you just remove the side cargo inner shell - can you get it that way?" Also, "how to disconnect?" Not wanting to destroy the connector, is it locked on with tabs or just a straight pull apart? Appreciate input from those who have done the actual disconnect.

Fatcycledaddy
07-10-2018, 08:50 AM
I do not think you can disconnect it without pulling a side panel. I pulled the panel on mine when I did it.

wingit3611
07-10-2018, 10:22 AM
Also need to disconnect my height Adjustment. 2013 RTL compressor is toast but bag holds air.

UtahPete
07-10-2018, 10:36 AM
Also need to disconnect my height Adjustment. 2013 RTL compressor is toast but bag holds air.
And, how to disconnect that link without setting off a brake error or whatever code it throws?

DGoebel
07-10-2018, 11:58 AM
teninospyder, you don't have to pull the rear trunk and saddlebags like I did, but you do at least have to pull the right upper side panel to see the connector.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=163367&d=1531172204

UtahPete
07-10-2018, 12:00 PM
teninospyder, you don't have to pull the rear trunk and saddlebags like I did, but you do at least have to pull the right upper side panel to see the connector.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=163367&d=1531172204

Thanks. Very helpful

mcalva
07-10-2018, 12:20 PM
J...... Does the air compressor works with an Elka stage 2?? thks!!


In my humble opinion, the original shock absorber has no adjustments. The adjustments are made through inflation (manual or with compressor) and the Elka Shok 2 have preload, rebound, etc. settings. so it seems that we should remove all the adjustments to the Elka to adjust with compressor and then I do not see the meaning of the operation.

Fatcycledaddy
07-10-2018, 01:54 PM
In my humble opinion, the original shock absorber has no adjustments. The adjustments are made through inflation (manual or with compressor) and the Elka Shok 2 have preload, rebound, etc. settings. so it seems that we should remove all the adjustments to the Elka to adjust with compressor and then I do not see the meaning of the operation.
The air adjustment is an air bag that is independent from the shock. It is not an air shock, but an air bag so it will work with any shock that is installed.
Changing the shock will not cure the leaking air bag, it will change the ride, but the only way to fix a leaking airbag is repair or replace the leaking components in the lines supplying the air to the bag, replace the air bag id there is a hole in it, or as some have done here, take it off and put some slime in it.

prmurat
07-24-2018, 01:55 PM
I received the new shock and the airbag cushion but... after 7 days of requesting it from the dealer finally accepted to order the bag/compressor. It is really hard to get used to the inertia of my local dealers here in AZ: last time it took a month to admit that I was right and change one of the relay by the battery (after taking half of the RT apart...). Do I miss Speed & Sport in Livermore CA!!!!

prmurat
08-03-2018, 02:08 PM
So Spyder was in the shop for 2 days, 27000 miles tune up (spark plugs, brake fluid... but looks like valves are out of every/any revision?), They had to do the recall for the hand brake, even if there was no problem, install a new airbag and the new Elka. I did feel uncomfortable as I know for a fact that after a certain amount on time on the same bike, mechanics have a tendency to cut corners and finish as fast as they can! It does not help when the said mechanic does not read the work order and change the airbag/compressor and buttons everything back...Forgetting the airbag cup/protector and the shock!!! So he had to re-open everything. Now the seat does not open without prying it open and once open it wobble like mad...me thinks the right hinge is broken.
Ride is good with the Elka, I did not try 2 up, no compressor activity so far, lets break in the shock and see if anything happens!!

Maybe it soon time I work myself on the Spyder like I do on all my bikes??