Front Brake Rotor Warp

[Spider-man]

My Dealer tells me my left front brake rotor is showing signs of warping. He also says that this isn't a warranty-covered item. Anyone have any experience to the contrary? I understand the pads not being covered, but it seems like the rotor should be if warping.

[Easy Rider]

My Dealer tells me my left front brake rotor is showing signs of warping.

Ask them what that means EXACTLY.

A minor warping of the disk should not affect the operation in the least......because the pads will follow the contour and work just fine.

Shops make a LOT more money on rotors than they do on pads.

[billybovine]

Look on page 164 of your owners manual. Under the warranty exclusions. Rotors are one of the items that are excluded.

[SPYD3R]

YUP, ME TOO......
also, the dealer charged me well over $100 for a new one....
get in touch with BAJA-RON, he has better ones, at lower prices....
RON is ALWAYS there when you need help.... :firstplace:
Dan P
SPYD3R

[oldguyinTX]

I have Ron's EBC rotors & pads on my RT, and believe me, they are WAY better than OEM.

[JKMSPYDER]

I had a warped rotor on the right front wheel. The symptom I experienced was that the front wheel would shimmy and shake when I pressed hard on the brake above about 20 mph. Are you experiencing any symptoms like that? If you haven't noticed anything wrong while riding, I would question the dealer's opinion.

[Easy Rider]

If you haven't noticed anything wrong while riding, I would question the dealer's opinion.

Yes, that's what I was trying to say. :thumbup:

AND....that condition most often is the result of "burned" spots in the metal that are harder or softer than normal and not true "warping".
A burned rotor can NOT be fixed by "turning".

[samewok]

if they do cover it . It will happen again.
I had the ebc put on my 2015 RT and it fixed the problem

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

It's pretty easy to verify ....take off the ALLEGED rotor and put it on a thick or supported piece of Glass ...take a piece of paper and try and run it around the outside edge .... The paper may go under the rotor a very small amount this would be normal tolerance ....but if a lot of paper or a couple of sheets it is probably warped..... To me this rates high on the Stealer scam list of issues .....But not even close to the V-twin Valve check HOOEY :banghead::banghead::roflblack::roflblack::roflbla ck::roflblack:..... Mike :thumbup:

[PW2013STL]

I have Ron's EBC rotors & pads on my RT, and believe me, they are WAY better than OEM.

+1.
I agree - way better!

[Spider-man]

I have Ron's EBC rotors & pads on my RT, and believe me, they are WAY better than OEM.

Thanks, I'll look into those if/when it comes to replacing them.

[stmike 1800]

A warped rotor will make your brake peddle pulse when applied .

[BajaRon]

Rotors are like oil and tire issues. A lot of opinions and statements. But many don't square with the facts.

Anyone remember the old vinyl records? Well, they actually warped if you didn't take care of them. Usually leaving them in the sun would do it for you.

If the warp got too bad, it wouldn't even play anymore.
http://worldofturntables.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/warped-vinyl-record.jpg

And while a vinyl record would still play fine even with some visual warpage. It only takes a few thousands of an inch to render a rotor defective.

Most true warpage on our rotors comes from improper torque on the wheel lug nuts. But you have to be quite a ways out of speck to get this to happen.

What most are calling warp, is actually not a deformity of the metal rotor. Instead, it is a buildup of brake material which is absorbed or embedded into a too soft/porous rotor surface. This happens when you get the pads & rotor good and hot. Then you stop with the brake peddle mashed down. Now the very hot pad and the very hot rotor are in continuous, static contact with pressure applied and no way to cool down. This creates a transfer of brake material into the metal rotor creating a hump right there. Now every time that hump comes around there is increased friction on that isolated spot so it gets hotter than the rest of the rotor and more brake material buildup is deposited. This sets up a vicious cycle. Over time you'll get the classic pulsation on the brake peddle and wobble in the front end when you apply the brakes (especially if you apply them hard).

This malady will act just like a warped rotor so the symptoms are the same. And they can't be fixed so the remedy is also the same. This is probably why, even those who know better, simply call it a warped rotor instead of trying to set the record straight. The customer usually doesn't care to hear all the technical data. They just want it fixed and they want to know long it will take and how much it will cost. Not getting on anyone here. It's just the way it is.

I sell a fair amount of EBC rotors to Spyder customers. And to my surprise, The lions share go to F3 owners. I would have thought the RT, a heavier machine, many times ridden 2-up, heavily loaded and towing a trailer, would be harder on the brakes. And I am pretty sure there are a lot more RT's than there are F3's out there. But I digress.

I have had several F3 owners call saying they have replaced their front rotors twice with OEM, BRP parts. And they were again in need of replacements! So they were looking into the EBC products.

Of course I can't guarantee that the EBC rotors will never go bad. But I have to say that, so far, not one has failed. And this from several riders that had already gone through 2 sets in fairly short order. I think that is pretty good performance.

Oh! And the best part is. The EBC rotors stop better and cost about 1/2 the price of the OEM rotors. So it's not all bad news when your OEM rotors go belly-up!

[Spider-man]

Rotors are like oil and tire issues. A lot of opinions and statements. But many don't square with the facts.

Anyone remember the old vinyl records? Well, they actually warped if you didn't take care of them. Usually leaving them in the sun would do it for you.

If the warp got too bad, it wouldn't even play anymore.
http://worldofturntables.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/warped-vinyl-record.jpg

And while a vinyl record would still play fine even with some visual warpage. It only takes a few thousands of an inch to render a rotor defective.

Most true warpage on our rotors comes from improper torque on the wheel lug nuts. But you have to be quite a ways out of speck to get this to happen.

What most are calling warp, is actually not a deformity of the metal rotor. Instead, it is a buildup of brake material which is absorbed or embedded into a too soft/porous rotor surface. This happens when you get the pads & rotor good and hot. Then you stop with the brake peddle mashed down. Now the very hot pad and the very hot rotor are in continuous, static contact with pressure applied and no way to cool down. This creates a buildup of brake material creating a hump right there. Now every time that hump comes around there is increased friction on that isolated spot so it gets hotter than the rest of the rotor and more brake material buildup is deposited. This sets up a vicious cycle. Over time you'll get the classic pulsation on the brake peddle and wobble in the front end when you apply the brakes (especially if you apply them hard).

This malady will act just like a warped rotor so the symptoms are the same. And they can't be fixed so the remedy is also the same. This is probably why, even those who know better, simply call it a warped rotor instead of trying to set the record straight. The customer usually doesn't care to hear all the technical data. They just want it fixed and they want to know long it will take and how much it will cost. Not getting on anyone here. It's just the way it is.

I sell a fair amount of EBC rotors to Spyder customers. And to my surprise, The lions share go to F3 owners. I would have thought the RT, a heavier machine, many times ridden 2-up, heavily loaded and towing a trailer, would be harder on the brakes. And I am pretty sure there are a lot more RT's than there are F3's out there. But I digress.

I have had several F3 owners call saying they have replaced their front rotors twice with OEM, BRP parts. And they were again in need of replacements! So they were looking into the EBC products.

Of course I can't guarantee that the EBC rotors will never go bad. But I have to say that, so far, not one has failed. And this from several riders that had already gone through 2 sets in fairly short order. I think that is pretty good performance.

Oh! And the best part is. The EBC rotors stop better and cost about 1/2 the price of the OEM rotors. So it's not all bad news when your OEM rotors go belly-up!

Great info Ron, thanks. I actually cannot feel any wobble or notice any symptoms at this point. I think my guy just tries whatever way he can to drum up business. I'm sure the issue is probably beginning, but it may be a while before I really need to correct it. When I do, I'll be a-calling!

[canamjhb]

Thank you Ron. You are on my list of "what to do when I need it".

[Alwaysonwheels]

If you want stock rotors I have a set with 6k miles I just took of my ST I will sell you a set for $25 plus shipping.

[BajaRon]

Great info Ron, thanks. I actually cannot feel any wobble or notice any symptoms at this point. I think my guy just tries whatever way he can to drum up business. I'm sure the issue is probably beginning, but it may be a while before I really need to correct it. When I do, I'll be a-calling!

If you have no symptoms, then it is unlikely that you have a problem. Believe me. It will annoy you quite a bit if you're having rotor issues. I wonder how your mechanic even got off on this tangent if you were not complaining of issues. I hope you're wrong about him trying to drum up business. But sadly, I know it happens.

This is one of those 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it' situations.

[Craigger_T]

It's pretty easy to verify ....take off the ALLEGED rotor and put it on a thick or supported piece of Glass ...take a piece of paper and try and run it around the outside edge .... The paper may go under the rotor a very small amount this would be normal tolerance ....but if a lot of paper or a couple of sheets it is probably warped..... To me this rates high on the Stealer scam list of issues .....But not even close to the V-twin Valve check HOOEY :banghead::banghead::roflblack::roflblack::roflbla ck::roflblack:..... Mike :thumbup:

My right front was warrantied. And yes, the new one is warping. Easy to tell, just lift the tire off the ground and spin it!

[Biggdogg22]

If you have no symptoms, then it is unlikely that you have a problem. Believe me. It will annoy you quite a bit if you're having rotor issues. I wonder how your mechanic even got off on this tangent if you were not complaining of issues. I hope you're wrong about him trying to drum up business. But sadly, I know it happens.

This is one of those 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it' situations.

I just changed my front brake pads to the fully sintered EBC pads. I keep hearing a rubbing sound like metal to metal. It gets louder when I apply the brakes. What could be the problem? I doubled checked them and they are put on evenly and correct. Do you think I might need to replace the rotors with EBC rotors to match the new fully sintered pads?

[BajaRon]

I just changed my front brake pads to the fully sintered EBC pads. I keep hearing a rubbing sound like metal to metal. It gets louder when I apply the brakes. What could be the problem? I doubled checked them and they are put on evenly and correct. Do you think I might need to replace the rotors with EBC rotors to match the new fully sintered pads?

You do not need to replace the rotors unless you are getting pulsation in the peddle and or wobble in the front end when you apply the brakes.
I've sent you a PM. Let me know if that information helps.

It is also true that if you have warped a set of OEM rotors. It will probably happen again. So it may be a waste of money to replace a warped OEM rotor with another OEM rotor for your riding style. Plus, if you are warping rotors you really need more stopping power as to warp a rotor you are asking more of the braking system than it is designed to deliver.

The EBC rotors do add a fair amount of stopping power capabilities over what the OEM rotors can provide.

[bobfeeney]

i got bad news for you, brp,,, will not stand behind the . rotors or pads.after 1500 miles i called the canadian BRP"S and they refused to stand behind the rotors. noooootttt warenteed mine is a 2015 RTS. they told me to go to their gold star mechanics in Red wing and the mechnac called the person i was dealing with @ brp. and said i was imagining the heavy surging on my right front break.. guess what brp called me and said that i must have really been breaking hard to cause what ever im feeling with the rotor. com on after driving for 50 years i sure as heck know when a rotor warps in a veichle and with out looking at the rotors . just by driving a veichle i can tell you wich rotor is bad.. just a lot of experance..Brp refuses to cover what they knew was a downfall... by the way the GOLD dealer ship charged me 185.00 to call brp on their findings.. do i like my rts? yes but you have to be willing to cover all the maintenance for your self or learn to doo all the work your self. and i know that is not feeseable for all people. we all have diffrent gifts in life.

[Easy Rider]

i got bad news for you, brp,,, will not stand behind the . rotors or pads.after 1500 miles i called the canadian BRP"S and they refused to stand behind the rotors. noooootttt warenteed mine is a 2015 RTS.

Pretty much standard practice in the WHOLE automotive industry.
Why would you expect BRP to be any different ??

[BajaRon]

Pretty much standard practice in the WHOLE automotive industry.
Why would you expect BRP to be any different ??

Exactly. Not out of the ordinary and to be expected. What is not expected is that so many rotors are going bad. This is the real rub.

[Easy Rider]

Exactly. Not out of the ordinary and to be expected. What is not expected is that so many rotors are going bad. This is the real rub.

You are in a MUCH better position to know if the percentage really is high than most of the rest of us.

But I am always a bit skeptical of drawing a conclusion based ONLY on reports in a forum like this because it ALWAYS makes any problem look worse than it probably IS because the thousands of owners who have had NO problem have no incentive to come here and report that.

I went through the same thing many years back with GM and a Caddy. Turned the drums twice. Replaced with a set of OEMs.....guess what, yep went bad again. Just bad product. Was I just unlucky (which seems to happen a LOT) or was it a universally bad product that GM failed to acknowledge ? I suspect the latter but had no good way to prove it at the time.

[BajaRon]

You are in a MUCH better position to know if the percentage really is high than most of the rest of us.

But I am always a bit skeptical of drawing a conclusion based ONLY on reports in a forum like this because it ALWAYS makes any problem look worse than it probably IS because the thousands of owners who have had NO problem have no incentive to come here and report that.

I went through the same thing many years back with GM and a Caddy. Turned the drums twice. Replaced with a set of OEMs.....guess what, yep went bad again. Just bad product. Was I just unlucky (which seems to happen a LOT) or was it a universally bad product that GM failed to acknowledge ? I suspect the latter but had no good way to prove it at the time.

I probably have more of a finger on the pulse on this subject than most. But I can't claim a view of the big picture. Still, motorcycle rotors are something that should normally last the life of the vehicle, IMHO. I've owned a good number of motorcycles and rode with a fair number of other MC owners. Other than actual racing or an accident. I don't remember anyone having to replace a rotor. Nor have I had to replace an EBC rotor for any customer due to warpage from normal use. This after some customers had destroyed one or even 2 sets of OEM rotors before coming to me.

I have had to replace some EBC rotors for another reason that no longer exists. But that really does not fit this discussion.

And that's all I am trying to add to this thread. Just input. Everyone needs to come to their own conclusions as to why this is.

[UtahPete]

Anybody know the torque specs for the front wheels on 2013 ST Limited?

Someone asking on Facebook (when will they ever learn...?) :roflblack:

[DGoebel]

Let me look at my Green Manual for them.....:sour:
105 N-m