Tire Choices

[2013REDRTS]

Looking at getting a new rear tire. I've seen the 2 sizes people are running, stock 225/50r15 or 215/60r15. I ride mostly 2 up and don't want the tire rubbing if using the 215. I'm about 270lbs plus the wife. I would like to know your opinions. If I go stock size I know it's either stock Kenda, Vee Rubber or Kuhmo Ecsta AST. I have a bunch of choices if I go to the 215. Thanks

[Dmetcalf]

I just very recently replaced my rear tire with The Kumho tire you have listed. I’ve probably only put 100 mi. On it maybe so far and I too am pushing 250 lbs. and ride 2 up almost 100% of the time. So far, so good.

[canamjhb]

I have the 215/60R15. Weigh about the same as you. I ride almost always 1 up but occasionally my wife gets off her GoldWing and joins me. She is about 175 and we have no rubbing issues. I like the fact that the larger aspect ratio causes my speedometer to match the GPS speed.

[BajaRon]

I have the 215/60R15. Weigh about the same as you. I ride almost 1 up but occasionally my wife gets off her GoldWing and joins me. She is about 175 and we have no rubbing issues. I like the fact that the larger aspect ratio causes my speedometer to match the GPS speed.

I like this too! It drives me nuts to have such a disparity between indicated speed and actual speed. BRP does this on purpose and I wish they'd quit.

[SPYD3R]

regardless of the tire size, my advise is to install a 2UP SHOCK....
i'm 250lbs, and never ride 2 up, but i've bottomed out so many times, and hurt my back, that i went to the 2UP SHOCK and it's now a thing of the past when it comes to bottoming out.....
as for the tire.... i mounted a KUMHO AST way back in 2009 on my RS.... great tire... actually had 5 of them between the RS & the F3.... i now have the 215/60R15 Michelin HYDRO-EDGE on my F3 and i have found this tire to be far superior to the KUMHO....
also, keep in mind that these tires are 4 ply, not 2 ply like the KENDA... i run a few more PSI in the Mich, and also in the HANKOOK up front....
your call on tires...
enjoy & ride safely....
Dan P
SPYD3R

[Chupaca]

The Kumho was the go to tire when folks started going to the automobile tires and therefore is more visable. There were and are issues with outlets not selling the tire to spyder ryders if they mention it's use. Since then there are a lot of other tires being mentioned here and in use. I use the OEM so can't comment on the others but worked with the brands mentioned and they are quality tires...Lots to read if you search the topic....:thumbup:

[Docster]

Lots of opinions and choices discussed. I bookmarked several from previous threads

[SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN]

kumho ast is my choice

[SpyderAnn01]

The Kumho was the go to tire when folks started going to the automobile tires and therefore is more visable. There were and are issues with outlets not selling the tire to spyder ryders if they mention it's use. Since then there are a lot of other tires being mentioned here and in use. I use the OEM so can't comment on the others but worked with the brands mentioned and they are quality tires...Lots to read if you search the topic....:thumbup:

The reason it was the go to tire was that it is the only tire available in the OEM size.

[Fat Baxter]

I'm also curious as to what the current thinking is for a new rear tire.

I have a 2104 RT-S. I installed a General Altimax RT43 in Sep 2015; size 215/60R15. The tire now has 21,500 miles on it and the tire wear indicator is hinting I should replace it soon:
162191

Wear is even across the tire. I run it with 24 psi. (Yes, I'm aware some folks run even lower pressures.) I could probably get another thousand miles out of it, but should avoid riding in heavy rain.

Is 21,500 a reasonable life for this particular tire? I'm not an aggressive rider (at least I don't think so). What's the consensus for the current longest-wearing tire?

I've kept my eyes on tire threads. Back when I bought this, the General was (sticky high-performance tires aside) a consensus choice. I think the best current contenders are: Michelin Hydroedge/Defender, Kumho Ecsta AST, and of course another General Altimax. FWIW, the Kumho would match, brand-wise, the Kumho Solus KH16s I have on the front; at about 16,000 miles they still look new.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I'm also curious as to what the current thinking is for a new rear tire.

I have a 2104 RT-S. I installed a General Altimax RT43 in Sep 2015; size 215/60R15. The tire now has 21,500 miles on it and the tire wear indicator is hinting I should replace it soon:
162191

Wear is even across the tire. I run it with 24 psi. (Yes, I'm aware some folks run even lower pressures.) I could probably get another thousand miles out of it, but should avoid riding in heavy rain.

Is 21,500 a reasonable life for this particular tire? I'm not an aggressive rider (at least I don't think so). What's the consensus for the current longest-wearing tire?

I've kept my eyes on tire threads. Back when I bought this, the General was (sticky high-performance tires aside) a consensus choice. I think the best current contenders are: Michelin Hydroedge/Defender, Kumho Ecsta AST, and of course another General Altimax. FWIW, the Kumho would match, brand-wise, the Kumho Solus KH16s I have on the front; at about 16,000 miles they still look new.
ANSWERS / OPINIONS in order ..... rear CAR tire 17 to 18 psi ... this will give the best performance in wet and dry - period .............. mileage for tires is all over the board, there are so many factors that will determine your mileage it's really useless to consider ................. Michelin Hydro ( right now ) would be very OLD stock if you found one ..Michelin Defender ( the latest version T&H ) should be a great choice .,...... tire matching front to rear is a myth unless you are RACING at very high speeds, same goes for DIRECTIONAL tread .... Kumho's are good when NEW but after about 12,000 to 14,000 miles lose they traction, especially in the wet :banghead: .......... FOR the FRONT if you have good alignment any Car tire that fits should give satisfactory performance .....On Spyders the rear tire is much more important ......you asked -I answered ..... mike :thumbup:

[Denno]

I am about to put my 3rd tire on the rear. The last one I installed (Yokohama S Drive) I had our local Big O Tire dealer un-mount the factory Kenda and mount the new Yokohama, They could not balance it however since the spyder rim would not fit on their balancing machine, so I had to make a special trip to my Spyder dealer and they actually agreed to balance it for me ($20). I was surprised they did it with the non-Kenda tire on it, but they did and that worked out.

I have since moved and now just ordered my new tire from Discount Tire (Cooper CS5) and I know they will mount it for me but they are also guessing that they will not be able to balance it.
I don't like the idea of using tire balancing beads (but open to it) and I tried balancing the Yokohama myself by putting the tire on its axle between 2 jackstands and just spinning/re-spinning to find the heavy point, but that did not work well either.
Is everyone mounting their own tire also balancing it (or not) - and if balancing, curious on how you are doing it.

Many thanks

[Highwayman2013]

I am about to put my 3rd tire on the rear. The last one I installed (Yokohama S Drive) I had our local Big O Tire dealer un-mount the factory Kenda and mount the new Yokohama, They could not balance it however since the spyder rim would not fit on their balancing machine, so I had to make a special trip to my Spyder dealer and they actually agreed to balance it for me ($20). I was surprised they did it with the non-Kenda tire on it, but they did and that worked out.

I have since moved and now just ordered my new tire from Discount Tire (Cooper CS5) and I know they will mount it for me but they are also guessing that they will not be able to balance it.
I don't like the idea of using tire balancing beads (but open to it) and I tried balancing the Yokohama myself by putting the tire on its axle between 2 jackstands and just spinning/re-spinning to find the heavy point, but that did not work well either.
Is everyone mounting their own tire also balancing it (or not) - and if balancing, curious on how you are doing it.

Many thanks
Get some stick on weights 2 jack stands and use the axle to balance the tire.

[canamjhb]

Centramatic balancer installed and never need to balance a tire again..... ever.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I am about to put my 3rd tire on the rear. The last one I installed (Yokohama S Drive) I had our local Big O Tire dealer un-mount the factory Kenda and mount the new Yokohama, They could not balance it however since the spyder rim would not fit on their balancing machine, so I had to make a special trip to my Spyder dealer and they actually agreed to balance it for me ($20). I was surprised they did it with the non-Kenda tire on it, but they did and that worked out.

I have since moved and now just ordered my new tire from Discount Tire (Cooper CS5) and I know they will mount it for me but they are also guessing that they will not be able to balance it.
I don't like the idea of using tire balancing beads (but open to it) and I tried balancing the Yokohama myself by putting the tire on its axle between 2 jackstands and just spinning/re-spinning to find the heavy point, but that did not work well either.
Is everyone mounting their own tire also balancing it (or not) - and if balancing, curious on how you are doing it.

Many thanks
I haven't balanced my last FIVE Rear tires ..... bike runs very smooth ......... to each His-Her It's own ..... Mike :thumbup:

[canamjhb]

I haven't balanced my last FIVE tires ..... bike runs very smooth ......... to each His-Her It's own ..... Mike :thumbup:

I'm inclined to agree. I put the centramatics on some time ago. After that I had new front tires installed on the rims at Costco and they automatically "balanced" them. I noticed just one stick on weight on one wheel and none on the other. Not enough to feel on the road.....

[Fat Baxter]

Poking around the tire sites, I see that the Michelin Defender isn't available in 215/60R15 (the same size as my current General), nor in the stock size of 225/50R15. Best match to the Spyder seems to be 205/60R15.

The 215 has the happy result of making the speedometer match GPS indicated speed (i.e., more accurate). How does a 205 size tire affect the speedometer?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I have since moved and now just ordered my new tire from Discount Tire (Cooper CS5) and I know they will mount it for me but they are also guessing that they will not be able to balance it.
I don't like the idea of using tire balancing beads (but open to it) and I tried balancing the Yokohama myself by putting the tire on its axle between 2 jackstands and just spinning/re-spinning to find the heavy point, but that did not work well either.
Is everyone mounting their own tire also balancing it (or not) - and if balancing, curious on how you are doing it.

Many thanks
My local tire shop uses a commercial liquid balance intended for large tires like on trucks. Three of the brands are Esco, AME, and KTB. How Ride-on compares to them chemically I don't know. I figure if a real tire shop uses one of the three on real tires in a real tire eating world where short cuts aren't welcome, it's good enough for my Spyder! :thumbup: The only time I feel rear tire vibration is when the pavement isn't smooth!

I'm now running the Cooper CS5. So far it's working great. I've only got about 500 miles on it.

[Deanna777]

I am running General Altimax RT 43 on the rear( Size: 215/60 R15) I have 16,576 miles on the tire. Also, I have roughly 22,400 miles on spyder.

I have not had any problems with the above tire. The General Altimax Tire was installed in 2015. The spyder handles well.

Deanna

[Docster]

I am running General Altimax RT 43 on the rear( Size: 215/60 R15) I have 16,576 miles on the tire. Also, I have roughly 22,400 miles on spyder.

I have not had any problems with the above tire. The General Altimax Tire was installed in 2015. The spyder handles well.

Deanna

Based on my research of all the many tire threads here and comments from individuals on the forum who've I come to regard as very experienced or experts, i put the same tire on mine.:thumbup:

[PW2013STL]

Poking around the tire sites, I see that the Michelin Defender isn't available in 215/60R15 (the same size as my current General), nor in the stock size of 225/50R15. Best match to the Spyder seems to be 205/60R15.

The 215 has the happy result of making the speedometer match GPS indicated speed (i.e., more accurate). How does a 205 size tire affect the speedometer?

It's the second number that affects the speedometer. So the 215/60 and the 205/60 would be the same to the speedometer. The first number is how wide the tire is. The difference from 225 to 205 is 20mm (less than 1") I run the Michelin Premier A/S in the 205/60R15 and it been the best tire I have tried on the RT. 24,000 miles on the first one, but I was running to much pressure (24#} in it and it wore out the center . Now running 18# and current tire wearing more even - I expect I will get no less then 30,000 miles on this one.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

It's the second number that affects the speedometer. So the 215/60 and the 205/60 would be the same to the speedometer. The first number is how wide the tire is. The difference from 225 to 205 is 20mm (less than 1") I run the Michelin Premier A/S in the 205/60R15 and it been the best tire I have tried on the RT. 24,000 miles on the first one, but I was running to much pressure (24#} in it and it wore out the center . Now running 18# and current tire wearing more even - I expect I will get no less then 30,000 miles on this one.
Not exactly .... all the above numbers off the sidewall have a mathematical relationship to how far it will travel per rotation based on that number ..... The " 60 " you refer to is the aspect ratio ... which is combination of the width and the sidewall height .... a 275 /60 is going to be different than a 205/60 as far as rolling distance per rotation .... the difference between a 205 vs a 215 is going to be very, very small .....but it is different ...... Mike :thumbup:

[PW2013STL]

Not exactly .... all the above numbers off the sidewall have a mathematical relationship to how far it will travel per rotation based on that number ..... The " 60 " you refer to is the aspect ratio ... which is combination of the width and the sidewall height .... a 275 /60 is going to be different than a 205/60 as far as rolling distance per rotation .... the difference between a 205 vs a 215 is going to be very, very small .....but it is different ...... Mike :thumbup:

Mike,

I sit corrected!

Les

[KX5062]

I am about to put my 3rd tire on the rear. The last one I installed (Yokohama S Drive) I had our local Big O Tire dealer un-mount the factory Kenda and mount the new Yokohama, They could not balance it however since the spyder rim would not fit on their balancing machine, so I had to make a special trip to my Spyder dealer and they actually agreed to balance it for me ($20). I was surprised they did it with the non-Kenda tire on it, but they did and that worked out.

I have since moved and now just ordered my new tire from Discount Tire (Cooper CS5) and I know they will mount it for me but they are also guessing that they will not be able to balance it.
I don't like the idea of using tire balancing beads (but open to it) and I tried balancing the Yokohama myself by putting the tire on its axle between 2 jackstands and just spinning/re-spinning to find the heavy point, but that did not work well either.
Is everyone mounting their own tire also balancing it (or not) - and if balancing, curious on how you are doing it.

Many thanks


I may have started the Cooper tire thing, but I really like it and this will be my tire of choice in the future. Anyway, as to balancing, you can try an independent motorcycle repair shop or a dreaded Harley dealer, because some of the newer models of bikes have super fat rear tires and the Spyder rear wheel is essentially the same design. So if they have the right jigs, their balancing machines will work.

[Deanna777]

[QUOTE=Docster;1367912]Based on my research of all the many tire threads here and comments from individuals on the forum who've I come to regard as very experienced or experts, i put the same tire on mine.:thumbup:[/QUOT The OEM (Kenda )was replaced at 5,284 miles. I went with the General Altimax RT43 because of the Spec's. It also has the "tire replacement "indicator built into the tire itself.

This is a great tire.

Go to" My albums" for pictures of the General Altimax RT43 tire.

Deanna

[canamjhb]

I have 7,877 miles on the rear General Altimax RT43 215/60R15. The tire started with 10/32 tread depth. I now have 8/32 depth and the tire is wearing exactly even across the tread. I am running 18#s psi. Assuming I will replace the tire when I get to 2/32 tread, that means I have used the tire for 25% of it's tread wear life. Giving me about 31,500 useful miles. I am more than happy If I get close to that. By contrast, I wore two OEM Kenda down to 0 tread depth (in the middle) in about 8K miles each. Not trying to start a tire longevity contest. Just showing the wear contrast between CTs and OEMs. And a bonus is the CT cost much less than the OEM.

[Navy9]

Looking at getting a new rear tire. I've seen the 2 sizes people are running, stock 225/50r15 or 215/60r15. I ride mostly 2 up and don't want the tire rubbing if using the 215. I'm about 270lbs plus the wife. I would like to know your opinions. If I go stock size I know it's either stock Kenda, Vee Rubber or Kuhmo Ecsta AST. I have a bunch of choices if I go to the 215. Thanks

I am running a Dunlop Direzza 205/55/15 Ultra High Performance Summer tireand it is incredible. Tire Rack for less than $100.00.

[Docster]

[QUOTE=Docster;1367912]Based on my research of all the many tire threads here and comments from individuals on the forum who've I come to regard as very experienced or experts, i put the same tire on mine.:thumbup:[/QUOT The OEM (Kenda )was replaced at 5,284 miles. I went with the General Altimax RT43 because of the Spec's. It also has the "tire replacement "indicator built into the tire itself.

This is a great tire.

Go to" My albums" for pictures of the General Altimax RT43 tire.

Deanna

:thumbup: Your posts are highly regarded by me. Thanks

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I am running a Dunlop Direzza 205/55/15 Ultra High Performance Summer tireand it is incredible. Tire Rack for less than $100.00.
Actually it's only OK in the wet ..... there are 1/2 dozen tires that are better .......... But this is up there in performance ...... Please keep us posted on your experience with it ....... Mike :thumbup:

[UtahPete]

I have 7,877 miles on the rear General Altimax RT43 215/60R15. The tire started with 10/32 tread depth. I now have 8/32 depth and the tire is wearing exactly even across the tread. I am running 18#s psi. Assuming I will replace the tire when I get to 2/32 tread, that means I have used the tire for 25% of it's tread wear life. Giving me about 31,500 useful miles. I am more than happy If I get close to that. By contrast, I wore two OEM Kenda down to 0 tread depth (in the middle) in about 8K miles each. Not trying to start a tire longevity contest. Just showing the wear contrast between CTs and OEMs. And a bonus is the CT cost much less than the OEM.
This seems to be the consensus and it's what I have on both my RTs. The tire pressure issue is something I'm still conflicted about simply because there are two different sets of opinions, both sides represented by people whose opinions I value highly. So, I've compromised and run them at about 22#.

[Warlock]

I am running a Dunlop Direzza 205/55/15 Ultra High Performance Summer tireand it is incredible. Tire Rack for less than $100.00.

Have looked at that tire. I'm running a Yokohama S drive at present. How stiff is the sidewall on the Dunlop tire? The Yokohama has a stiff side wall and like it. Makes it easy to mount.
David

[Peteoz]

This seems to be the consensus and it's what I have on both my RTs. The tire pressure issue is something I'm still conflicted about simply because there are two different sets of opinions, both sides represented by people whose opinions I value highly. So, I've compromised and run them at about 22#.

Yeah, I did the same, and for the same reasons, Pete......but then I realised that I was in the middle, and probably not getting the full benefits of either option, so I dropped mine to 19 (320lb Rider). Seat of the pants feeling is that I am more comfortable in corners than I was at 22psi, my tyre pressure is increasing by some 4psi when warmed up, and I have not experienced any downsides. I know that “seat of the pants” is not very scientific, but if you saw the size of my seat in my pants, there is plenty of room for credibility there;):D

Pete

[UtahPete]

Yeah, I did the same, and for the same reasons, Pete......but then I realised that I was in the middle, and probably not getting the full benefits of either option, so I dropped mine to 19 (320lb Rider). Seat of the pants feeling is that I am more comfortable in corners than I was at 22psi, my tyre pressure is increasing by some 4psi when warmed up, and I have not experienced any downsides. I know that “seat of the pants” is not very scientific, but if you saw the size of my seat in my pants, there is plenty of room for credibility there;):D Pete
I'll go with your seat of the pants then! Don't want to argue with that! :bowdown:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

This seems to be the consensus and it's what I have on both my RTs. The tire pressure issue is something I'm still conflicted about simply because there are two different sets of opinions, both sides represented by people whose opinions I value highly. So, I've compromised and run them at about 22#.
I side with Mike on the question of pressure in the rear tire. Here's a pic of the General Altimax I took off this spring after 17,800 miles running at 23 to 25 psi. The center treads are worn much more than the outer treads.

162250

I'm running my current Cooper CS5 at 18 psi.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I side with Mike on the question of pressure in the rear tire. Here's a pic of the General Altimax I took off this spring after 17,800 miles running at 23 to 25 psi. The center treads are worn much more than the outer treads.

162250

I'm running my current Cooper CS5 at 18 psi.
I don't like what I'm seeing in that wear pattern ..... I would be surprised to see center wear on any CAR tire .... 23 to 25 psi for a CAR tire is below ( for Spyder weight ) what it was designed to carry ( normally for a car )..... I have a suspicion the rear wheel is not well aligned, as this wear shown is more on the left ....as if it's SCRUBBING (?) .... I don't suppose you any pics of other rear tires you had ????? ............. or verbally what was their wear pattern ........ I hope Peter Aawen see's this pic ..... I value His opinion ........ Peter are you out there ..... Mike :thumbup:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I don't like what I'm seeing in that wear pattern ..... I would be surprised to see center wear on any CAR tire .... 23 to 25 psi for a CAR tire is below ( for Spyder weight ) what it was designed to carry ( normally for a car )..... I have a suspicion the rear wheel is not well aligned, as this wear shown is more on the left ....as if it's SCRUBBING (?) .... I don't suppose you any pics of other rear tires you had ????? ............. or verbally what was their wear pattern ........ I hope Peter Aawen see's this pic ..... I value His opinion ........ Peter are you out there ..... Mike :thumbup:
Here's a closer look at the left and right of the tread.

162263 162262

Here's a shot of the Kenda the General replaced. It had about 8400 miles on it. I ran it at about 25 psi, IIRC.

162264

[Peter Aawen]

I don't like what I'm seeing in that wear pattern ..... I would be surprised to see center wear on any CAR tire .... 23 to 25 psi for a CAR tire is below ( for Spyder weight ) what it was designed to carry ( normally for a car )..... I have a suspicion the rear wheel is not well aligned, as this wear shown is more on the left ....as if it's SCRUBBING (?) ....*snip*....... Peter are you out there ..... Mike :thumbup:

Yeah, that wear pattern doesn't look great to me either Mike!! :shocked: I guess that it could be that dirt or dust is distorting the image & what we can see, but I'd think from looking at that image that tread depth measuring across the face of that tire would show that it HAS worn more in the middle & on one side (the left) than the other!! :sour: Running your hand up & down along the tread will probably also feel as though one edge of the rows of tread blocks has a raised & sharp edge; I'd guess most likely worse on the most worn side of the tire (but if the wear has progressed far enough, it might be all the way across the tread face! :p )

And IF that is the case, then you'd hafta think that it IS scrubbing & the pressure it has been running is a little too high for the load it's carrying & the way it's being ridden. ;)

Over to you lot, to do with as you will (or won't!:dontknow:) :thumbup:

Ps: another thought IMS, put a straight edge across the face of the tread at 90 degrees to the sidewalls - you shouldn't be able to see any gap between the straight edge & the middle of the tire tread.... if you can, the tire is definitely wearing too fast in the middle & that's suggesting you are either spinning it up at high revs waaayyy too often or the pressure you are running is a bit too high! :(,

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Here's a closer look at the left and right of the tread.

162263 162262

Here's a shot of the Kenda the General replaced. It had about 8400 miles on it. I ran it at about 25 psi, IIRC.

162264
IMS, imho the split screen is larger - good , however it's harder to compare both sides of the tire - simultaneously .....the focus is ok , clean the tread area and just take a close -up of the entire width ..... Mike :thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Yeah, that wear pattern doesn't look great to me either Mike!! :shocked: I guess that it could be that dirt or dust is distorting the image & what we can see, but I'd think from looking at that image that tread depth measuring across the face of that tire would show that it HAS worn more in the middle & on one side (the left) than the other!! :sour: Running your hand up & down along the tread will probably also feel as though one edge of the rows of tread blocks has a raised & sharp edge; I'd guess most likely worse on the most worn side of the tire (but if the wear has progressed far enough, it might be all the way across the tread face! :p )

And IF that is the case, then you'd hafta think that it IS scrubbing & the pressure it has been running is a little too high for the load it's carrying & the way it's being ridden. ;)

Over to you lot, to do with as you will (or won't!:dontknow:) :thumbup:

Ps: another thought IMS, put a straight edge across the face of the tread at 90 degrees to the sidewalls - you shouldn't be able to see any gap between the straight edge & the middle of the tire tread.... if you can, the tire is definitely wearing too fast in the middle & that's suggesting you are either spinning it up at high revs waaayyy too often or the pressure you are running is a bit too high! :(,
Peter, if it's " Scrubbing " ..... WHY , what's causing this ....my belt moves back and forth on the sprocket constantly .... And I don't have un-even wear ...it has been reported some engines weren't ALIGNED perfectly ...... Also too high a psi won't imho cause UN-EVEN tire wear - it would be the same across the footprint ....... Mike :thumbup:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Peter, if it's " Scrubbing " ..... WHY , what's causing this ....my belt moves back and forth on the sprocket constantly .... And I don't have un-even wear ...it has been reported some engines weren't ALIGNED perfectly ...... Also too high a psi won't imho cause UN-EVEN tire wear - it would be the same across the footprint ....... Mike :thumbup:
But if the rear tire is slightly off parallel with the bike frame doesn't the laser alignment process compensate for that? I thought after the laser alignment is completed the bike will track straight with respect to the three wheels but the bike frame might be slightly off parallel with respect to the line of travel.

[Jeffmal]

I am running a Dunlop Direzza 205/55/15 Ultra High Performance Summer tireand it is incredible. Tire Rack for less than $100.00.

What model and year Spyder are you running the Dunlop on?
How does it handle wet roads?
Thanks

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

But if the rear tire is slightly off parallel with the bike frame doesn't the laser alignment process compensate for that? I thought after the laser alignment is completed the bike will track straight with respect to the three wheels but the bike frame might be slightly off parallel with respect to the line of travel.
I would PM SpyderAnn she knows this better than anyone ...... Mike :thumbup:

[Peter Aawen]

Peter, if it's " Scrubbing " ..... WHY , what's causing this ....my belt moves back and forth on the sprocket constantly .... And I don't have un-even wear ...it has been reported some engines weren't ALIGNED perfectly ...... Also too high a psi won't imho cause UN-EVEN tire wear - it would be the same across the footprint ....... Mike :thumbup:

I think it hasta be TWO problems Mike - the easy one being the first, the high tire pressure that's causing the 'centre' of the tread to wear more than the edges.... only that's skewed just a little bit by the 'other' problem! And the second problem being the uneven wear/scrubbing issue, that's a little more difficult, and yeah, SpyderAnn is probably the best person to ask about that one!! :dontknow:


But if the rear tire is slightly off parallel with the bike frame doesn't the laser alignment process compensate for that? I thought after the laser alignment is completed the bike will track straight with respect to the three wheels but the bike frame might be slightly off parallel with respect to the line of travel.

You are basically right IMS, and the only things I can think of that might be causing this 'abnormal wear issue' are that 1). the tire hasn't been mounted properly on the rim - the LHS bead is possibly seated a bit 'higher' on the rim than the other side... something that can occur during mounting if the technician doesn't use/get quite enough free air flow when inflating to 'bead seating' pressure & doesn't give the tread a few whacks with a mallet or tire lever to help pop the bead down into its seat properly &/or then check that the bead is seated correctly, but this is usually 'fixed' pretty much as soon as the tire starts carrying the weight of a car - as the weight goes on it generally 'pops' the bead back down into its seat properly as soon as the tire does its first rotation under load, only maybe in this instance the weight of the Spyder hasn't been sufficient to do this?? :dontknow:or 2). was the laser alignment done before that particular rear tire was put on & the axle 'aligned' during tire replacement? That other earlier tire tread wear pic didn't look skewed like this latest one, so has the rear axle alignment been 'crossed up' just a bit since the laser alignment occured?!? There'd hafta be some signs elsewhere tho, maybe the bars not quite aligned with 'straight ahead', or the front tires feathering just a tiny amount on the LHS of their tread?? I dunno if that'd really do it tho, not without physically checking the actual vehicle & mounting etc out personally, I'm sorta clutching at straws here - SpyderAnn may be able to offer something more substantial??? or 3) possibly the tire construction isn't quite as 'even' as it normally is on Passenger tires, with the tread band laid onto the carcass marginally off centre?!? OK, Not really all that likely, altho it IS theoretically possible - just look how many of the Kenda tires that get onto the streets with construction 'defects' like that that've slipped thru their quality control!! So one in a million slipping thru from Cooper isn't anywhere near as bad, is it??? I'd still be asking SpyderAnn, or having a very up close & personal look at the tire, rim, axle alignment, wheel bearings, belt tension, road camber, swing arm alignment, swing arm bearing, etc to see if there was any indication as to why that particular tire was wearing like that?!? If it wasn't quite so fiddly to do, I'd suggest flipping that tire on its rim & running it the other way for a bit to see if it made ANY difference in the wear pattern - but it'd be a right pain doing that for potentially very little gain!?! :gaah:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Bravo Peter - bravo :clap::clap::clap::clap:....I know Utah doesn't like me using " emojis " :roflblack::roflblack:....but YOU deserve EMOJIS :yes::yes::yes:......... Mike :thumbup:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

If it wasn't quite so fiddly to do, I'd suggest flipping that tire on its rim & running it the other way for a bit to see if it made ANY difference in the wear pattern - but it'd be a right pain doing that for potentially very little gain!?! :gaah:
Any suggestions about the tire are moot. It was sent to tire heaven about 3 months ago!!! When I took it off all I was focusing on was the center wear and decided that 25 psi was too high. I'll just keep a watch on the Cooper CS5 I'm running now.

This is twice that my experience didn't quite match Mike's experience and recommendation! :banghead: I ran a Michelin Hydro on my 2013 RT. I was not impressed with its traction on wet pavement. I'm talking wet, not standing water covered! Its wear wasn't super either, IMO. 25 psi tire pressure probably was the reason! If I hit the throttle very hard at all it would break loose. I sold the bike with about 18k miles on the the Michelin touting it to be good for about another 5k. Even if the wear would have been even on the Altimax above I'm doubtful I would have made it to or past 25k miles. Otherwise all was good with it the best I remember!

One factor probably is that most of my driving is on highways at 70 mph and over!

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Any suggestions about the tire are moot. It was sent to tire heaven about 3 months ago!!! When I took it off all I was focusing on was the center wear and decided that 25 psi was too high. I'll just keep a watch on the Cooper CS5 I'm running now.

This is twice that my experience didn't quite match Mike's experience and recommendation! :banghead: I ran a Michelin Hydro on my 2013 RT. I was not impressed with its traction on wet pavement. I'm talking wet, not standing water covered! Its wear wasn't super either, IMO. 25 psi tire pressure probably was the reason! If I hit the throttle very hard at all it would break loose. I sold the bike with about 18k miles on the the Michelin touting it to be good for about another 5k. Even if the wear would have been even on the Altimax above I'm doubtful I would have made it to or past 25k miles. Otherwise all was good with it the best I remember!

One factor probably is that most of my driving is on highways at 70 mph and over!
#1. - INTERSTATE use will be a factor, however something else might be going on #2. my experiences with car tires are at 17 to 18 PSI..... so yours at 25 may also be a factor #3. - my Hydro-edge ( on my RT ) now has 38,500+ miles on it and I still feel safe in the wet ..... however I will be changing it fairly soon ...#4.. :agree: with Peter, yes you had increased center wear ....But it wasn't EVEN across and it SHOULD have been:yikes:.... There is a reason it's wearing slightly more to one side of the Middle ....... figuring that out isn't going to be easy ...... PM Ann about the alignment ..... Mike :thumbup:

[jcthorne]

#1. - INTERSTATE use will be a factor, however something else might be going on #2. my experiences with car tires are at 17 to 18 PSI..... so yours at 25 may also be a factor #3. - my Hydro-edge ( on my RT ) now has 38,500+ miles on it and I still feel safe in the wet ..... however I will be changing it fairly soon ...#4.. :agree: with Peter, yes you had increased center wear ....But it wasn't EVEN across and it SHOULD have been:yikes:.... There is a reason it's wearing slightly more to one side of the Middle ....... figuring that out isn't going to be easy ...... PM Ann about the alignment ..... Mike :thumbup:


I have seen this uneven wear pattern on two other bikes. Both, it turns out had been victims of minor rear end collisions. The uneven tire wear is a bent swing arm. This is why I tell folks that are in rear end collisions, even minor that the swing arm must be checked for being true. It does not take much out of square to cause this and it drastically reduces rear tire traction when riding as well because the tire is not in good contact with the road.