toy hauler ramp solutions??

[Pat Clark]

I'm switching over from a cargo trailer/camper I built to a 2010 29' toy hauler. Ramp is much steeper than the cargo trailer. I have some ideas to reduce the angle but I'd like to see what others have done. All ideas and pictures would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Pat

[LJspydee]

To load our RT in our toyhauler I back up the ramp until the nose is close to the ground, then I place a pair of ramps behind the front tires and finish backing into the trailer. Our ramp is so steep that I installed a winch in the trailer to assist. Sorry I don't have pics. Also we back the Spyder in to allow room to stand our small trailer on end in the corner which allows us to unload the Spyder without having to unload the trailer.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I'm switching over from a cargo trailer/camper I built to a 2010 29' toy hauler. Ramp is much steeper than the cargo trailer. I have some ideas to reduce the angle but I'd like to see what others have done. All ideas and pictures would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Pat I carry my RT on the back of my pk-up .... the bed is 28" from the ground ... I use 10ft. alumin. ramps .... the angle is quite steep .... what I did for traction for the rear wheel was this .....a 6' wide X 10' strip of 26ga. galvanized sheet metal that I made dimples on with a large nail and hammer ( looks like a big Cheese grater :roflblack: ).... I have used this in the pouring rain and never lost traction .... I have even stopped , got off the Spyder, checked the alignment, got back on and it never slipped. I can go as slow as one mph and it still doesn't slip. Folks here who have witnessed this are amazed , but convinced .............. good luck ....... a 4x8 sheet costs about $ 35.00 at a steel yard, so you will have left over that can be used for something else oooooooooooooooooooooor sell pieces to your friends who will want some after they see yours in action :roflblack::roflblack:.................... Mike :thumbup:

[UtahPete]

I carry my RT on the back of my pk-up .... the bed is 28" from the ground ... I use 10ft. alumin. ramps .... the angle is quite steep .... what I did for traction for the rear wheel was this .....a 6' wide X 10' strip of 26ga. galvanized sheet metal that I made dimples on with a large nail and hammer .... I have used this in the pouring rain and never lost traction .... I have even stopped , got off the Spyder, checked the alignment, got back on and it never slipped. I can go as slow as one mph and it still doesn't slip. Folks here who have witnessed this are amazed , but convinced .............. good luck ....... a 4x8 sheet costs about $ 35.00 at a steel yard, so you will have left over that can be used for something else oooooooooooooooooooooor sell pieces to your friends who will want some after they see yours in action :roflblack::roflblack:.................... Mike :thumbup:
I love your ingenuity, Mike :bowdown:

[Easy Rider]

Try it out first......slowly.

If it drags on the middle, try running the suspension up to "firm".

Also remove any adjustable anchors in the middle of the "garage" near the back.

I only have a problem when I park where the ground behind the RV is lower than the back wheels......so that it makes the ramp angle steeper.

[Navvet]

I'm switching over from a cargo trailer/camper I built to a 2010 29' toy hauler. Ramp is much steeper than the cargo trailer. I have some ideas to reduce the angle but I'd like to see what others have done. All ideas and pictures would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Pat


I had the same problem with my 2004 toy hauler. Additionaly, with the original ramp angle, my Goldwing and the Spyder would hang up at the top of the ramp.

I replaced the bumpers with 1500# adjustable trailer stabilizers,
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and then added a hinged 8' ramp from harbor freight.
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Added plywood to the top of the ramp and non-skidded it...
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It's not the prettiest job, but it works like a charm.

Also, with the adjustable jacks, I don't need to find a perfectly level area to load / unload.